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jakedatc
Jan 5, 2010, 1:59 AM
Post #1426 of 1722
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Silly rabbit.. running it out over sketchy RPs is no way to protect a nice PT :)
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acorneau
Jan 5, 2010, 3:00 AM
Post #1427 of 1722
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dr_feelgood wrote: We're still climbing on my rack. PTFTW.
Ouch!
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jakedatc
Jan 5, 2010, 7:22 PM
Post #1429 of 1722
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all the cams have their own biner so if need be biners can be stolen from draws. there are about 4-5 lockers that are with general anchor building material.. not sure why you need more biners to equalize a placement.
got a pic of an example where you'd need more than 3 biners per piece? (cam+2 from draw)
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the_climber
Jan 5, 2010, 7:54 PM
Post #1430 of 1722
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2 equalized nuts come as an example for 3 biners in use... Unless you're ok with fiddle farking around borrowing biners from other slings/cams/ect.
Nesting more than 2 nuts/pieces is another example.
Having a few extra biners at the belay are worth more than their weight in gold for organization too.
If you primarily use cams then this is all a moot point, however, if you tend to use a lot of passive pro (which most rack multiple pieces to one biner), then anchors and equalized placements start eating up biners fast.
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jakedatc
Jan 5, 2010, 8:17 PM
Post #1431 of 1722
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the_climber wrote: 2 equalized nuts come as an example for 3 biners in use... Unless you're ok with fiddle farking around borrowing biners from other slings/cams/ect. Nesting more than 2 nuts/pieces is another example. Having a few extra biners at the belay are worth more than their weight in gold for organization too. If you primarily use cams then this is all a moot point, however, if you tend to use a lot of passive pro (which most rack multiple pieces to one biner), then anchors and equalized placements start eating up biners fast.
I trad climb almost exclusively at the gunks which so far does not lend itself to needing nested nut placements other than perhaps 2 equalized with a sliding x which could be done with 1 draw then perhaps another to extend it or spare locker. (i do have a few spare biners not shown .. just not 6+)
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the_climber
Jan 5, 2010, 8:22 PM
Post #1432 of 1722
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It comes down to a "it depends where/what you climb" then.
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39p
Jan 5, 2010, 8:39 PM
Post #1433 of 1722
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Just started getting gear in the last couple months so there are some holes. What gear items should be next?
00-4 WC Tech Friends (all with carabiners)
Metolius Ultra Light Curved Nut Set 1-10 (racked on 2 carabiners)
Camp Tri Cam Dyneema Set 0.5-2 (racked on one carabiner)
10 Trad Draws (2 carabiners each)
1 double length on a locker
ATC and Reverso 3
equalette
USHBA Nut Tool
Blue Water Titan Loop Chain
few lockers
I know I need to get some spare carabiners but not sure what else, suggestions?
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jakedatc
Jan 5, 2010, 8:55 PM
Post #1434 of 1722
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as we just talked about where do you climb?
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39p
Jan 5, 2010, 9:00 PM
Post #1435 of 1722
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Texas and Oklahoma.
BTW is The Oklahoma Climber's Guide the best book or is it the only book?
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 5, 2010, 9:27 PM
Post #1436 of 1722
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ensonik wrote:  15 pounds Missing the obvious: - Truck load of slings - Ropes: 1 10.5 and 1 8.5 - Helmets, shoes, harnesses - First aid, bivy sack, ... Obviously, judging by the high shinny factor of the gear, I'm a gumby. I'm working on a rack for the longer multi-pitch routes in the North East. My first lead was standard at whitehorse ledge. I climb with my son, so I keep the difficulty level pretty low. edit: added weight, changed image host url
Way to step up the game. Not only did you put your headlamp in, you put two of them. And two multi-tools.
...and two nut tools.
...and two belay devices.
...and a Gri Gri and a Cinch.
Yet you have 7 draws.
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kachoong
Jan 5, 2010, 9:27 PM
Post #1437 of 1722
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39p wrote: Just started getting gear in the last couple months so there are some holes. What gear items should be next? 00-4 WC Tech Friends (all with carabiners) Metolius Ultra Light Curved Nut Set 1-10 (racked on 2 carabiners) Camp Tri Cam Dyneema Set 0.5-2 (racked on one carabiner) 10 Trad Draws (2 carabiners each) 1 double length on a locker ATC and Reverso 3 equalette USHBA Nut Tool Blue Water Titan Loop Chain few lockers I know I need to get some spare carabiners but not sure what else, suggestions?
You may want to double up on cams, perhaps with another brand, like BD C4's or Metolius. Start with the 0.5-2 range first. TCU's are handy in the blue to red range also. Perhaps get another set of nuts (again, another brand may help for variation). Maybe get a set of 8-10 sport draws too.
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climbingtrash
Jan 6, 2010, 1:44 AM
Post #1438 of 1722
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39p wrote: Just started getting gear in the last couple months so there are some holes. What gear items should be next? 00-4 WC Tech Friends (all with carabiners) Metolius Ultra Light Curved Nut Set 1-10 (racked on 2 carabiners) Camp Tri Cam Dyneema Set 0.5-2 (racked on one carabiner) 10 Trad Draws (2 carabiners each) 1 double length on a locker ATC and Reverso 3 equalette USHBA Nut Tool Blue Water Titan Loop Chain few lockers I know I need to get some spare carabiners but not sure what else, suggestions?
Pictures...yur post iz worthless without them.
*edit to add*
Posting in the "Rack Pictures" thread without pics iz like posting in the "Naked Pics of yur GF" thread and giving us a lengthy description. Again, WORTHLESS! Just sayin'...
(This post was edited by climbingtrash on Jan 6, 2010, 1:47 AM)
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johnwesely
Jan 6, 2010, 2:27 AM
Post #1439 of 1722
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climbingtrash wrote: Pictures...yur post iz worthless without them. *edit to add* Posting in the "Rack Pictures" thread without pics iz like posting in the "Naked Pics of yur GF" thread and giving us a lengthy description. Again, WORTHLESS! Just sayin'...
Except the naked thing might still be kind of cool.
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ensonik
Jan 6, 2010, 3:06 AM
Post #1440 of 1722
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In reply to: Way to step up the game. Not only did you put your headlamp in, you put two of them. And two multi-tools. ...and two nut tools. ...and two belay devices. ...and a Gri Gri and a Cinch.
You condescendant unpleasant dumbfuck.
I climb with my son (as previously stated), hence I have gear for 2.
In reply to: Yet you have 7 draws.
Ever heard of a trad draw ... I have 20 or so biners lying out there. As also stated in the original post, I didn't include the truck load of slings I have.
(I'm going to guess you don't actually read anything and work solely on your post count)
edit: spelling (at least the ones I know of)
(This post was edited by ensonik on Jan 6, 2010, 3:07 AM)
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climbingtrash
Jan 6, 2010, 3:25 AM
Post #1441 of 1722
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ensonik wrote: In reply to: Way to step up the game. Not only did you put your headlamp in, you put two of them. And two multi-tools. ...and two nut tools. ...and two belay devices. ...and a Gri Gri and a Cinch. You condescendant unpleasant dumbfuck. I climb with my son (as previously stated), hence I have gear for 2. In reply to: Yet you have 7 draws. Ever heard of a trad draw ... I have 20 or so biners lying out there. As also stated in the original post, I didn't include the truck load of slings I have. (I'm going to guess you don't actually read anything and work solely on your post count) edit: spelling (at least the ones I know of)
pwnd!
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39p
Jan 6, 2010, 5:08 AM
Post #1443 of 1722
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Rack picture attached.
I generally do not post pictures online, so i do not have a host site. I added it to my photos but it is waiting approval.
Still working on the lengthy description of my wife but I will disagree that it is worthless. Money is made selling Penthouse Forum Letters, which is close to what you are describing.
Edit*
The 4 sport draws are now trad draws.
(This post was edited by 39p on Jan 6, 2010, 5:09 AM)
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Attachments:
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Rack.jpg
(82.9 KB)
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moose_droppings
Jan 6, 2010, 5:28 AM
Post #1444 of 1722
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39p wrote: Rack picture attached. I generally do not post pictures online, so i do not have a host site. I added it to my photos but it is waiting approval. Still working on the lengthy description of my wife but I will disagree that it is worthless. Money is made selling Penthouse Forum Letters, which is close to what you are describing. Edit* The 4 sport draws are now trad draws. 
Fixed
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billcoe_
Jan 6, 2010, 5:56 AM
Post #1445 of 1722
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While we wait for the Penthouse thing 39p,  2 things I have found helpful in the past are small brass wired stoppers. I've used the RP's and Black Diamond, ut currently prefer the HB offsets made by DMM. These little guys get used and slot well. The next thing might be controversial, but I still like and on some occasions use (Gasp) 6-9 hexes. You can get used ones cheap on ebay and they pretty much never seem to lose their strength or get old. Just the larger sizes. For wider cracks in "some" areas, they work great, better than cams. You might see if anyone uses them in your area first.
Next might look for a few used Aliens, I'd just get the Green, Yellow and Red for now. Once you start getting on thin stuff, maybe the small ones. Larger than red isn't necessary IMO.
Good luck.
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climbingtrash
Jan 6, 2010, 1:47 PM
Post #1446 of 1722
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moose_droppings wrote: 39p wrote: Rack picture attached. I generally do not post pictures online, so i do not have a host site. I added it to my photos but it is waiting approval. Still working on the lengthy description of my wife but I will disagree that it is worthless. Money is made selling Penthouse Forum Letters, which is close to what you are describing. Edit* The 4 sport draws are now trad draws. Fixed
Ahh, now that's better. Uploading pics here iz worthless too. Use photobucket, then you have more control over your pics. Lengthy descriptions of anything aren't worthless if that's what you visit a thread to see. 
Nice set of Wild Countries BTW...I'm a WC man myself. Here's the pic of my rack that appears a few pages back...
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Lazlo
Jan 6, 2010, 2:17 PM
Post #1447 of 1722
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ensonik wrote: You condescendant unpleasant dumbfuck.
Ha Ha! That was awesome! Quote of the year!
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edge
Jan 6, 2010, 2:28 PM
Post #1448 of 1722
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Well I don't have any recent pics of my rack, but found this picture of the gear we brought on the Regular NW Face route on Half Dome in 1982.
Notice the home made haul bag, which I still have to this day. And yes, I climbed it in a swami belt with no leg loops and no helmet, and quite a few hexes to supplement our meager rack of cams. The helmet and one sleeping bag belonged to my partner; I slept in pile pants and jacket inside the haulbag.
Click to enlarge.
(This post was edited by edge on Jan 6, 2010, 2:37 PM)
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the_climber
Jan 6, 2010, 4:13 PM
Post #1449 of 1722
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Hey Edge, that looks like about 1/4 the gear most folks take on that route now.
At some point skinner and I will have to make the trip down to Zion for a tour.
(This post was edited by the_climber on Jan 6, 2010, 4:14 PM)
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 6, 2010, 4:56 PM
Post #1450 of 1722
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ensonik wrote: In reply to: Way to step up the game. Not only did you put your headlamp in, you put two of them. And two multi-tools. ...and two nut tools. ...and two belay devices. ...and a Gri Gri and a Cinch. You condescendant unpleasant dumbfuck. I climb with my son (as previously stated), hence I have gear for 2. In reply to: Yet you have 7 draws. Ever heard of a trad draw ... I have 20 or so biners lying out there. As also stated in the original post, I didn't include the truck load of slings I have. (I'm going to guess you don't actually read anything and work solely on your post count) edit: spelling (at least the ones I know of)
Heh, looks like I struck a nerve. Well thank you for showing us that both you and your partner have a headlamp.
I have heard of "trad draws", I simply don't disassemble mine at the end of the climbing day.
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