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gthomann
Sep 30, 2010, 3:54 PM
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The Black Arete has been bolted; 8 bolts to the top anchors. Scramble up the first easy move and then stick clip the first bolt. Lead it if you are studley enough.
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taydude
Sep 30, 2010, 5:06 PM
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Firstly... isn't this land closed?
Secondly... doesn't local ethic dictate no bolts?
I thought this used to be bolted then chopped a long time ago.
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kaizen
Sep 30, 2010, 5:42 PM
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That's great to hear. It's such an obvious and aesthetic line. Thanks Gary.
Taydude - the climb is on private property. The traditional ethic is still alive, there are virtually no placements on this line. Perhaps you're thinking of Moss Island, which has a UNESCO designation?
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goodluck1
Sep 30, 2010, 6:46 PM
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The climb might be on private property. The only way to know for sure would be a survey. The climb was never bolted. Top anchors were put on it with the intention of bolting the line. But then the train crashed and it never got done. There have been bolted lines on that side of the tracks since the late 80's.
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Adk
Sep 30, 2010, 9:41 PM
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So does that mean it should be "Bolted to hell" anyway?
Thanks Gary for bolting it!!!
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davidnn5
Oct 1, 2010, 8:27 AM
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I opened this expecting the thread to say:
'Yes, no one really cares that you climb 5.12, or heck, even 5.13(!) Now stfu, RC'
So disappointed.
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goodluck1
Oct 1, 2010, 11:55 AM
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What does RC stand for?
Gary didn't bolt the Black Arrete. I suspect that he posted that because there are probably some climbers who would like to lead it.
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gthomann
Oct 1, 2010, 12:59 PM
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As goodluck1 points out, I did not bolt the Black Arete, I was just letting people know it had been done. It is a climb that over the years many climbers have expressed a desire to lead. There is no natural protection on the route. Although there is some doubt about where the actual property lines is, you still need the owners permission to go on the property. I was not advertising that I am a great climber. I once lead a 5.9. I have never been on the Black Arete and never will be.
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James_Otey
Oct 1, 2010, 10:17 PM
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I bolted this route on September 20th of this year. There is no natural protection on the route (save a horizontal 40 feet up) so it seemed logical to equip the route for everyone to try.
It's a much different beast on lead than TR. Once it goes, I suspect it will be about 5.13a. The route is currently an open project with no red tag.
Have at it!
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Adk
Oct 5, 2010, 12:02 AM
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James_Otey wrote: I bolted this route on September 20th of this year. There is no natural protection on the route (save a horizontal 40 feet up) so it seemed logical to equip the route for everyone to try. It's a much different beast on lead than TR. Once it goes, I suspect it will be about 5.13a. The route is currently an open project with no red tag. Have at it!
So is it a 5.12 or a 5.13? Which one is it?
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James_Otey
Oct 9, 2010, 3:22 PM
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I did the FA yesterday. Consensus among everyone trying it is definite 5.13a.
We have dubbed the route "Arete Style Dysfunction"
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kaizen
Oct 10, 2010, 12:21 AM
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First, I'd like to say thanks for bolting this line. I look forward to getting on it.
However, and someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but local ethic is to leave the existing route name, even if a previous TR route is now a sport climb. With all due respect, the black arête should remain the name.
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James_Otey
Oct 10, 2010, 1:43 AM
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I was under the impression that the name is simply descriptive of the route before it got freed. I don't want to step on any toes or offend anyone, but I feel as though this is simply the ethic of the rest of the country and climbing community as a whole.
The route is significantly different as a lead climb as opposed to a TR. Ask anyone who has tried it and they will surely agree. It's truly a different beast, and I think the name (which was conceived by my clever belayer), is indicative of the nature of the new climb.
I would not be surprised if the route continues to be refereed to as the black arete. It has been for years. The entire process of putting in time and effort to bolt and suss out the route (Thanks Gary, Bill, and Eric!), however, leads be to believe that the commonly accepted ethic is perfectly reasonable. And its pretty damn funny...
Perhaps I'm off base significantly. I don't think I am. I would love to hear suggestions from the community.
Cheers
James Otey
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Adk
Oct 11, 2010, 12:05 AM
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This was climbed on top rope no? Honestly I don't know.
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James_Otey
Oct 11, 2010, 2:39 AM
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It was but holds recently broke making it a good notch harder. It's also climbs quite a bit differently as a lead climb.
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roughster
Oct 11, 2010, 3:22 AM
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Renaming routes after they are established by another means is extremely lame IMO.
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roughster
Oct 21, 2010, 5:21 AM
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roughster wrote: ...is extremely lame
j_ung wrote: ...my life has changed not one bit
The slippery slope of renaming routes is obvious and we have already seen the ultimate destination:
Renaming routes because a hold broke. You laugh but it has happened several times recently to fairly prominent routes.
The universal laughable situation of renaming boulder problems because you avoided a hold then calling it an eliminate. I am not talking about changing the whole nature of the problem by eliminating most holds, but saying if you do 98% of the problem exactly the same as how it was done originally, but don't use this one hold it's called, "My Mom Shaves with Butter! It's totally rad!!!"
You get the point. As ridiculous as the two examples are above, the sad thing is they're real examples (Mom Shaves with Butter eliminate BP was named changed to protect the innocent  )
What's the point? In the OPs example, the route has been climbed before free, just not lead. Changing the name of the route because it has bolts seems pretty lame to me.
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suprasoup
Oct 21, 2010, 7:59 AM
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In reply to: The route is significantly different as a lead climb as opposed to a TR.
?? I'm having trouble wrapping my head around this one. Did you guys bolt it in a zig zag or something? I don't think I've ever been on a route that was significantly different on lead than on TR other than the head game part.
Supra
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Adk
Oct 25, 2010, 12:38 AM
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suprasoup wrote: In reply to: The route is significantly different as a lead climb as opposed to a TR. ?? I'm having trouble wrapping my head around this one. Did you guys bolt it in a zig zag or something? I don't think I've ever been on a route that was significantly different on lead than on TR other than the head game part. Supra
I'm waiting too!!! Yet you haven't been to Little Falls!!! 
I left my popcorn somewhere. Has anyone seen it?
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James_Otey
Nov 11, 2010, 4:02 AM
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Is it harder to do the crux of a route, or to do the crux while locking off midway on micro crimps to clip a rope? Clips can be just as cruxy as physical moves can. To prevent grounding, we needed to place a bolt that is very difficult to clip (on TR, you actually only use the clipping hold to bump to the next one). This is just the consensus of a couple friends and I who have also tried it. I encourage everyone to try the route- I think you would agree with us.
I've always thought "first ascent" means first lead. This ethic is pervasive around the country. Perhaps Little Falls is an exception? The Nose wasn't freed on toprope....
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curt
Nov 11, 2010, 4:21 AM
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James_Otey wrote: Is it harder to do the crux of a route, or to do the crux while locking off midway on micro crimps to clip a rope?
The latter only indicates a very poorly bolted route.
Curt
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