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lena_chita
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Aug 26, 2013, 3:46 PM
Post #100627 of 105309
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camhead wrote: Weakend report: got really close on this one three cee route that I got on a few months ago and felt impossible. Managed to get through the crux yesterday, but then punted off the top after cheesetitting this crossover and not getting set up the right way for a sideways dyno. But still, I've only put in probably 8 burns, and am psyched I got this close. Pretty psyched. Today is perfect conditions for it, but after three days on I'm trashed, so it's sitting in the kawffee shop and picking over editors' revisions for another day. Also found some jazz musicians in town to jam with, woo!
You'll get it. "Stuck in one-hung-ville" is morel like getting one-hungs for a month, over and over. Like I was on Ale8 and Blue-eyed and Mercy. With 8 burns, You just barely got to one-hung-ville, you aren't stuck there... yet!
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snoopy138
Aug 26, 2013, 4:01 PM
Post #100628 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: drivel wrote: drivel wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: No posts for FOUR DAYS? What a disgrace! O.K., I'll spray. Went to the Gnu this weakend. Had a good time and did NOT cry. Saturday was awesome temps, lightweight long-sleeve weather, low humidity. Climbed at the Other Place with Banz and two of his friends. Camhead bailed on us and went on spider-clearing tour of obscure carcks. No accounting for taste. We had the place to ourselves all day. Highlight of the day-- sending Tiggers and Airplanes. It's an 11d that I've been on before, a couple of years ago. Onsighted it to the last move back then, then flailed around the last bolt until I determined that there really was no way to do the move other than the dyno. Which I then tried a whole bunch of times and finally stuck once. I dunno if this counts as one attempt or one hundred and forty one, but I only tied in once.  Anyway, this time around, I got a serious pep talk from Banz: "O.K., Lena, you know you'll have to jump. You know there is no other way to do it. Just freaking go for it, O.K.? Just once, please, can you all-out freaking jump for something?" I said O.K., tied in, and started climbing. I didn't remember the moves up high, but I definitely remembered that there was nothing good to hold on to, and that I had to jump. Then Matt and Chad, who were warming up around the corner, walked over. They missed the pep talk from Banz, but Matt knew I wasn't onsighting, so he was giving a blow-by-blow description to Chad, who has never been on the route. "O.k. , kinda hard move right off the ground, then it eases up a lot, rest right before the roof, the roof is just pumpy, but gigantic jugs, and then it is just a big dyno. Right there, she is about to do it... SHIT!" (said in a tone of voice that means, O.K. she is off, she screwed up)... long pause... then... "WTF just happened? She DIDN'T JUMP! And she didn't fall. WTF? What did she grab? There is nothing there!" would have been cooler if you jumped. He makes a good poynte. Durp. Learning to jump will open up many more new possible routes for you than crimping harder. LOL, I want to be like that troll who is posting in the technique forums about "how do I climb overhangs". I wonder if someone can tell me how to jump? Poor Banz said "just jump, O.K.?", and "just go, now", and " just try" so many times on Apollo, I think the other guys were thinking that it was a loop recorder. I tried. But I reach higher on the V-slot move if I don't jump then I do if I try to go dynamic. Obviously, I can't reach high enough statically. I have only tried it a 100 times or so, but I did get the point, I NEED to jump. I get it. But every time I try, I end up looking retarded and going into any direction except towards the V-slot. I guess I will be trying again in a week or two, but I really think it would be helpful if I could replicate the move in the gym, instead of it being 8 bolts high and on a route that I can only get to once a month. The thing is, there is this really shitty little bump below the V-slot, and I can ALMOST see myself holding it... LOL. No, I know, useless distraction, I need to be thinking about jumping... Wait, when you say you don't climb dynamically do you mean that you don't dyno or you climb everything static (ie - you won't "pop" for a hold). All of the above-written long-winded angst is about one specific dyno on Apollo, where I seem to be getting closer to the hold statically than dynamically, because the dynamic move is from a really awkward position and I can't seem to create the momentum that would carry me in the right direction. I actually DO "pop" to holds pretty regularly. All-out dyno-- not so much, but I am trying. You keep saying this word, "pop." I do not think it means what you think it means. And, as Dr.Ivel or I can attest, the v-slot move on Apollo is not particularly awkward; the key to momentum on it is all in the left foot. It would be cool to set a simulator porbelm in the gym with it, though. More random stuff: Spencer was apparently asking Chris about who my "nice gay friend" was. Chris was like, "uhh, that was Dan, you know, the photographer? Then Spencer wondered again is Banz was teh ghey. Heh. certainly GU'd? but i'm sure she's not talking about the pop to the v slot. Probably talking about the obligatory huck at the 4th bolt? it's true that it's awkward to set it up. it's also true that NOT hucking makes it v6 or 7 instead of 3ish. apparently I'm rong. ohwell. but yeah. like camhat said, there's not a lot of upper body movement or even pulling in that move, so much as just locking the fuck off w your right hand which is taped so you don't fucking lose it at teh first knuckle, holding on for dear life with your right heel, and pushin with your left foot to rotate your body. the really hard part for the shorties is releasing the lockoff of your right hand at just the correct moment, so that you can actually reach the hold. taller gerks just have to rotate their bodies. Ah, that makes sense. I do get to within about 2 in of the V-slot by doing just that (locking the shit out of the right arm, pushing with the left foot, and rotating the body-- I call that "going to the hold staticly", even though there is the push from the left leg), but then I am fully and completely stuck with my lockoff being at it's max, elbow digging into the body and the right hand right next to and below the shoulder. I need to be thinking about RELEASING it at the right time.  Seriously, people, I don't think this sort of beta micro-analysis has ever been done in BET.  uhhh ... teh BET existed long before you posted hear. Yes. But are you trying to say that this sort of micro-beta analysis had been done by gerks before?
yes, to teh point that kamhed flipped out about having to hear about every goddamn move in joshua tree.
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dr_feelgood
Aug 26, 2013, 4:02 PM
Post #100629 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
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caughtinside wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: So we got walloped with a thunderstorm this afternoon, and went to the gym instead of trying to climb outside(wise choice). At the gym, there was a family with heavy german accents and two boys, probably 10 or 12 or so. Irish twins. Very aryan looking, and definitely bozeman powerchildren. Hitler would have been proud. in between their leads, the wunderkidz would spray incessant beta at their parents while they climbed. "No dad, you have to drop-knee on the left." "Mom, that hold is off! you are cheating." Fukkin junior spraylords in training. It made me sick. Face it dude. You live in the new boulder
I know only this.
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snoopy138
Aug 26, 2013, 4:03 PM
Post #100630 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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granite_grrl wrote: weke-end report Saturday we drove up to Lion's Head. This is supposed to be Ontario’s best cliff, a mini Ceause if you well.
I only have made it this far as of yet, but this sounds a lot like the claim of malibu creke being kalymnos' punky little brother.
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snoopy138
Aug 26, 2013, 4:06 PM
Post #100631 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
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caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: gonna be a weke end of blorting owt. heading to the stone beer fest on saturday, then sticking around SD to watch the mets-padres game on sunday. teh ABz will be there. The Bastards! Well say hello from me and ask if I can borrow his drum set. Drumming kin involve exersize... might be best to ask if ewe kin borrow his backgammon bord? Man, I am getting a ton of excercise these days, but the problem is so little of it involves actual rock. I have been doing a ton of yoga biking water skiing surfing gym climbing flag boying ugh. Not going to make it this weekend either. You know, it's not that hard to go climbing. That is true, but the loyerette has arranged a fine Brunch on Sunday. kind of spikes the weekend for climbing. Ewe noes.... it wood be gud ifs we had sum sort ov rule that covered this kind ov situation.... Wait a minute.... WE FUKING DUE!!!1 well, it's more like a guideline but still. Sumtymes climbing iz awl about disapoynting yore loved wons. Try to pay attention? She is very klever. She has befriended all my climbing partners, and they like her better than me.
oh, shit, that comes as a huge surprise.
to nobody.
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snoopy138
Aug 26, 2013, 4:07 PM
Post #100632 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: drivel wrote: drivel wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: No posts for FOUR DAYS? What a disgrace! O.K., I'll spray. Went to the Gnu this weakend. Had a good time and did NOT cry. Saturday was awesome temps, lightweight long-sleeve weather, low humidity. Climbed at the Other Place with Banz and two of his friends. Camhead bailed on us and went on spider-clearing tour of obscure carcks. No accounting for taste. We had the place to ourselves all day. Highlight of the day-- sending Tiggers and Airplanes. It's an 11d that I've been on before, a couple of years ago. Onsighted it to the last move back then, then flailed around the last bolt until I determined that there really was no way to do the move other than the dyno. Which I then tried a whole bunch of times and finally stuck once. I dunno if this counts as one attempt or one hundred and forty one, but I only tied in once. Anyway, this time around, I got a serious pep talk from Banz: "O.K., Lena, you know you'll have to jump. You know there is no other way to do it. Just freaking go for it, O.K.? Just once, please, can you all-out freaking jump for something?" I said O.K., tied in, and started climbing. I didn't remember the moves up high, but I definitely remembered that there was nothing good to hold on to, and that I had to jump. Then Matt and Chad, who were warming up around the corner, walked over. They missed the pep talk from Banz, but Matt knew I wasn't onsighting, so he was giving a blow-by-blow description to Chad, who has never been on the route. "O.k. , kinda hard move right off the ground, then it eases up a lot, rest right before the roof, the roof is just pumpy, but gigantic jugs, and then it is just a big dyno. Right there, she is about to do it... SHIT!" (said in a tone of voice that means, O.K. she is off, she screwed up)... long pause... then... "WTF just happened? She DIDN'T JUMP! And she didn't fall. WTF? What did she grab? There is nothing there!" would have been cooler if you jumped. He makes a good poynte. Durp. Learning to jump will open up many more new possible routes for you than crimping harder. LOL, I want to be like that troll who is posting in the technique forums about "how do I climb overhangs". I wonder if someone can tell me how to jump? Poor Banz said "just jump, O.K.?", and "just go, now", and " just try" so many times on Apollo, I think the other guys were thinking that it was a loop recorder. I tried. But I reach higher on the V-slot move if I don't jump then I do if I try to go dynamic. Obviously, I can't reach high enough statically. I have only tried it a 100 times or so, but I did get the point, I NEED to jump. I get it. But every time I try, I end up looking retarded and going into any direction except towards the V-slot. I guess I will be trying again in a week or two, but I really think it would be helpful if I could replicate the move in the gym, instead of it being 8 bolts high and on a route that I can only get to once a month. The thing is, there is this really shitty little bump below the V-slot, and I can ALMOST see myself holding it... LOL. No, I know, useless distraction, I need to be thinking about jumping... Wait, when you say you don't climb dynamically do you mean that you don't dyno or you climb everything static (ie - you won't "pop" for a hold). All of the above-written long-winded angst is about one specific dyno on Apollo, where I seem to be getting closer to the hold statically than dynamically, because the dynamic move is from a really awkward position and I can't seem to create the momentum that would carry me in the right direction. I actually DO "pop" to holds pretty regularly. All-out dyno-- not so much, but I am trying. You keep saying this word, "pop." I do not think it means what you think it means. And, as Dr.Ivel or I can attest, the v-slot move on Apollo is not particularly awkward; the key to momentum on it is all in the left foot. It would be cool to set a simulator porbelm in the gym with it, though. More random stuff: Spencer was apparently asking Chris about who my "nice gay friend" was. Chris was like, "uhh, that was Dan, you know, the photographer? Then Spencer wondered again is Banz was teh ghey. Heh. certainly GU'd? but i'm sure she's not talking about the pop to the v slot. Probably talking about the obligatory huck at the 4th bolt? it's true that it's awkward to set it up. it's also true that NOT hucking makes it v6 or 7 instead of 3ish. apparently I'm rong. ohwell. but yeah. like camhat said, there's not a lot of upper body movement or even pulling in that move, so much as just locking the fuck off w your right hand which is taped so you don't fucking lose it at teh first knuckle, holding on for dear life with your right heel, and pushin with your left foot to rotate your body. the really hard part for the shorties is releasing the lockoff of your right hand at just the correct moment, so that you can actually reach the hold. taller gerks just have to rotate their bodies. Ah, that makes sense. I do get to within about 2 in of the V-slot by doing just that (locking the shit out of the right arm, pushing with the left foot, and rotating the body-- I call that "going to the hold staticly", even though there is the push from the left leg), but then I am fully and completely stuck with my lockoff being at it's max, elbow digging into the body and the right hand right next to and below the shoulder. I need to be thinking about RELEASING it at the right time. Seriously, people, I don't think this sort of beta micro-analysis has ever been done in BET. uhhh ... teh BET existed long before you posted hear. Yes. But are you trying to say that this sort of micro-beta analysis had been done by gerks before? Probibly. I've been skimming the Apollo beta, but we've broken down the cruxes of the beaver, clean and jerk, LST, and numerous other josh routes. Now, if I could only figure out that 18" of climbing on the JJF.
I assume this refers to teh JJC?
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snoopy138
Aug 26, 2013, 4:08 PM
Post #100633 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
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caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: gonna be a weke end of blorting owt. heading to the stone beer fest on saturday, then sticking around SD to watch the mets-padres game on sunday. teh ABz will be there. The Bastards! Well say hello from me and ask if I can borrow his drum set. Drumming kin involve exersize... might be best to ask if ewe kin borrow his backgammon bord? Man, I am getting a ton of excercise these days, but the problem is so little of it involves actual rock. I have been doing a ton of yoga biking water skiing surfing gym climbing flag boying ugh. Not going to make it this weekend either. Much like teh dog, who returniths to his own vomit.... Teh entire hole crew iz returning to CI's backyard this long weekend, to cause CI to further shitz pants in rage. •rage• You guys going to columns or the other sleepy time crag? ZzzI? Sigh. I think I can do a day. Gulp... I have a brunch one day and a pee wee golf birthday party another.
they'll be further than a day trip for ewe.
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cracklover
Aug 26, 2013, 4:17 PM
Post #100634 of 105309
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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Wekend report:
Wife and I climbzed the spurt climbz. One of the routes I was interested in I sent in just a couple tries, the other one I could not get up at all. Is it possible that two weeks of alpine climbing does not put one in the best spurt climbing shape? At least I remembered how to do the Texas Rope Trick, so didn't have to face the indignity of leaving a biner behind. The wife got what the guidebook said was only her second 11d, but discovered that MP downgraded it. She actually agrees that it's only 11c, so whatever. Still, woulda been nice.
Then, on the tyrolean back over the creek, I somehow got a big flap of skin on my arm caught between the biner and the tyrolean rope. Holy crap that hurt.
GO
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granite_grrl
Aug 26, 2013, 4:17 PM
Post #100635 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: weke-end report Saturday we drove up to Lion's Head. This is supposed to be Ontario’s best cliff, a mini Ceause if you well. Anyway, we’ve stayed away from it for years because traditionally you rap in, set up a hanging belay and then lead out. Fucking retarded, if we climbed there we would always just TR the routes belaying from the top of the cliff. In the last while people have been adding more and more extensions to bring routes to the ground and we’re decided it’s finally time to start climbing there. The stuff isn’t generally that steep, it’s also often techy with small holds. Nathan finds the climbing really hard there, which is one of the motivating factors for us to climb there. So Saturday, we rap down a 5.10 line that could use re-equipping to get a bolt count and gave it a quick climb, then after another warm up, and finally end up at this 5.12- route we wanted to check out. Ends up the 5.12 part is a super contrived bottom section that left me at max extension through most of the moves, which was pretty crappy climbing. The upper section was power stemming, which was super cool climbing. It could also use re-equipping, and would be a stunning line if it had a more logical start, which would also probably give it a mid 5.11 grade as well. We spent a lot of time fucking around, and the cliff goes into the sun around 4pm, so at that time we packed up and just checked out a few more lines at the cliff on our way out. Sunday we head out a little earlier to get a little more climbing in before the sun came around. About 45min into our hour drive to get there Nathan realizes he forgot his climbing shoes, so we added 1.5 hours onto our drive to retrieve them and got to the cliff later than we did the day before. Irregardless we warmed up on a super fun route, and while we probably needed another warmup we headed over to a route we scoped out the day before. The route was really cool, and harder than anything I’ve been on up to this point. It involved a lot of power laybacking up this faint, broken corner. I decided just to TR it a few times because the clipping stances were tricky and I was unsure of myself, but I worked out all the moves pretty quickly which I was really happy with on a route this hard for me. On my last run up, cleaning the draws, the skies broke and it started to downpour. I was okay with this because 3 times a route that hard for me left me pretty tired and I was done anyway, but the hike is a sold half hour, maybe even 45min out and Nathan told me I looked like a wet dog by the time I got back to the car. That night we gorged on leftovers and watched a movie. Good times. Nice werk! Climbing strong! I usually end up looking like a wet rat, not a wet dog, in the downpour. Definitely had sported that look last week at the lake. Banz went to Lion's Head three summers ago, with Bob, I think. He didn't care for it that much, if I remember, but most of what I remember him talking about were sketchy bolts and the pain of rapping in.
Yeah, LH isn't as amazing as it thinks it is, but if you stay on the ground it's a lot better. Again, hanging belays on a 100ft cliff is retarded.
As for the bolts....well, yeah, you kinda get used to climbing over crap after a while but there are more and more crags getting re-equipped around here. Nathan has done a ton at various crags, just not at LH yet.
I wish I had gotten up there when Banz was climbing there, but I think I had gone down to WV for a long weekend and he was gone the next. Learning that cliff is painful.
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granite_grrl
Aug 26, 2013, 4:19 PM
Post #100636 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Weakend report: got really close on this one three cee route that I got on a few months ago and felt impossible. Managed to get through the crux yesterday, but then punted off the top after cheesetitting this crossover and not getting set up the right way for a sideways dyno. But still, I've only put in probably 8 burns, and am psyched I got this close. Pretty psyched. Today is perfect conditions for it, but after three days on I'm trashed, so it's sitting in the kawffee shop and picking over editors' revisions for another day. Also found some jazz musicians in town to jam with, woo! You'll get it. "Stuck in one-hung-ville" is morel like getting one-hungs for a month, over and over. Like I was on Ale8 and Blue-eyed and Mercy. With 8 burns, You just barely got to one-hung-ville, you aren't stuck there... yet!
she has a poynte. Stop being such a drama queen, camhed!
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granite_grrl
Aug 26, 2013, 4:20 PM
Post #100637 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: weke-end report Saturday we drove up to Lion's Head. This is supposed to be Ontario’s best cliff, a mini Ceause if you well. I only have made it this far as of yet, but this sounds a lot like the claim of malibu creke being kalymnos' punky little brother.
That's exactally what it's like.
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granite_grrl
Aug 26, 2013, 4:23 PM
Post #100638 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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cracklover wrote: Wekend report: Wife and I climbzed the spurt climbz. One of the routes I was interested in I sent in just a couple tries, the other one I could not get up at all. Is it possible that two weeks of alpine climbing does not put one in the best spurt climbing shape? At least I remembered how to do the Texas Rope Trick, so didn't have to face the indignity of leaving a biner behind. The wife got what the guidebook said was only her second 11d, but discovered that MP downgraded it. She actually agrees that it's only 11c, so whatever. Still, woulda been nice. Then, on the tyrolean back over the creek, I somehow got a big flap of skin on my arm caught between the biner and the tyrolean rope. Holy crap that hurt. GO
I gave a a shot of indignation when he was going to bail off a route leaving a quicklink. He had the gall to tell me that a quicklink and a cheap biner were the exact same thing....what?
But both you and this guy have to learn how to use a stick clip better. There should never be an excuse to leave gear behind.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Aug 26, 2013, 5:05 PM
Post #100639 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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granite_grrl wrote: cracklover wrote: Wekend report: Wife and I climbzed the spurt climbz. One of the routes I was interested in I sent in just a couple tries, the other one I could not get up at all. Is it possible that two weeks of alpine climbing does not put one in the best spurt climbing shape? At least I remembered how to do the Texas Rope Trick, so didn't have to face the indignity of leaving a biner behind. The wife got what the guidebook said was only her second 11d, but discovered that MP downgraded it. She actually agrees that it's only 11c, so whatever. Still, woulda been nice. Then, on the tyrolean back over the creek, I somehow got a big flap of skin on my arm caught between the biner and the tyrolean rope. Holy crap that hurt. GO I gave a a shot of indignation when he was going to bail off a route leaving a quicklink. He had the gall to tell me that a quicklink and a cheap biner were the exact same thing....what? But both you and this guy have to learn how to use a stick clip better. There should never be an excuse to leave gear behind.
Yeah, but sometimes, if you are, like 3 bolts up on a long climb, it would be too much trouble to stick-clip all the way to the top. Still, you have a pointe!
Banz is like a wizard with a squid, he can take teh draws off with it better than anyone, and I've been practicing with it, though I'm still nowhere near as good as he is. I think he is actually in Trango's instructional video of how to use a squid.
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camhead
Aug 26, 2013, 5:12 PM
Post #100640 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: cracklover wrote: Wekend report: Wife and I climbzed the spurt climbz. One of the routes I was interested in I sent in just a couple tries, the other one I could not get up at all. Is it possible that two weeks of alpine climbing does not put one in the best spurt climbing shape? At least I remembered how to do the Texas Rope Trick, so didn't have to face the indignity of leaving a biner behind. The wife got what the guidebook said was only her second 11d, but discovered that MP downgraded it. She actually agrees that it's only 11c, so whatever. Still, woulda been nice. Then, on the tyrolean back over the creek, I somehow got a big flap of skin on my arm caught between the biner and the tyrolean rope. Holy crap that hurt. GO I gave a a shot of indignation when he was going to bail off a route leaving a quicklink. He had the gall to tell me that a quicklink and a cheap biner were the exact same thing....what? But both you and this guy have to learn how to use a stick clip better. There should never be an excuse to leave gear behind. Yeah, but sometimes, if you are, like 3 bolts up on a long climb, it would be too much trouble to stick-clip all the way to the top. Still, you have a pointe! Banz is like a wizard with a squid, he can take teh draws off with it better than anyone, and I've been practicing with it, though I'm still nowhere near as good as he is. I think he is actually in Trango's instructional video of how to use a squid.
Pulled a good one on Banz yesterday. Got on a new route of his at the Other Place just right of Depth Charge, fun 11b jughaul through a roof.
I txt'd him, "hey, is that your route just right of Depth Charge? One of the bolts pulled out."
He flipped his shit, hehe.
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granite_grrl
Aug 26, 2013, 5:15 PM
Post #100641 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: cracklover wrote: Wekend report: Wife and I climbzed the spurt climbz. One of the routes I was interested in I sent in just a couple tries, the other one I could not get up at all. Is it possible that two weeks of alpine climbing does not put one in the best spurt climbing shape? At least I remembered how to do the Texas Rope Trick, so didn't have to face the indignity of leaving a biner behind. The wife got what the guidebook said was only her second 11d, but discovered that MP downgraded it. She actually agrees that it's only 11c, so whatever. Still, woulda been nice. Then, on the tyrolean back over the creek, I somehow got a big flap of skin on my arm caught between the biner and the tyrolean rope. Holy crap that hurt. GO I gave a a shot of indignation when he was going to bail off a route leaving a quicklink. He had the gall to tell me that a quicklink and a cheap biner were the exact same thing....what? But both you and this guy have to learn how to use a stick clip better. There should never be an excuse to leave gear behind. Yeah, but sometimes, if you are, like 3 bolts up on a long climb, it would be too much trouble to stick-clip all the way to the top. Still, you have a pointe! Banz is like a wizard with a squid, he can take teh draws off with it better than anyone, and I've been practicing with it, though I'm still nowhere near as good as he is. I think he is actually in Trango's instructional video of how to use a squid.
I hate the squid. Spring clamp 4 lyfe!
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caughtinside
Aug 26, 2013, 5:41 PM
Post #100642 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: drivel wrote: drivel wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: No posts for FOUR DAYS? What a disgrace! O.K., I'll spray. Went to the Gnu this weakend. Had a good time and did NOT cry. Saturday was awesome temps, lightweight long-sleeve weather, low humidity. Climbed at the Other Place with Banz and two of his friends. Camhead bailed on us and went on spider-clearing tour of obscure carcks. No accounting for taste. We had the place to ourselves all day. Highlight of the day-- sending Tiggers and Airplanes. It's an 11d that I've been on before, a couple of years ago. Onsighted it to the last move back then, then flailed around the last bolt until I determined that there really was no way to do the move other than the dyno. Which I then tried a whole bunch of times and finally stuck once. I dunno if this counts as one attempt or one hundred and forty one, but I only tied in once. Anyway, this time around, I got a serious pep talk from Banz: "O.K., Lena, you know you'll have to jump. You know there is no other way to do it. Just freaking go for it, O.K.? Just once, please, can you all-out freaking jump for something?" I said O.K., tied in, and started climbing. I didn't remember the moves up high, but I definitely remembered that there was nothing good to hold on to, and that I had to jump. Then Matt and Chad, who were warming up around the corner, walked over. They missed the pep talk from Banz, but Matt knew I wasn't onsighting, so he was giving a blow-by-blow description to Chad, who has never been on the route. "O.k. , kinda hard move right off the ground, then it eases up a lot, rest right before the roof, the roof is just pumpy, but gigantic jugs, and then it is just a big dyno. Right there, she is about to do it... SHIT!" (said in a tone of voice that means, O.K. she is off, she screwed up)... long pause... then... "WTF just happened? She DIDN'T JUMP! And she didn't fall. WTF? What did she grab? There is nothing there!" would have been cooler if you jumped. He makes a good poynte. Durp. Learning to jump will open up many more new possible routes for you than crimping harder. LOL, I want to be like that troll who is posting in the technique forums about "how do I climb overhangs". I wonder if someone can tell me how to jump? Poor Banz said "just jump, O.K.?", and "just go, now", and " just try" so many times on Apollo, I think the other guys were thinking that it was a loop recorder. I tried. But I reach higher on the V-slot move if I don't jump then I do if I try to go dynamic. Obviously, I can't reach high enough statically. I have only tried it a 100 times or so, but I did get the point, I NEED to jump. I get it. But every time I try, I end up looking retarded and going into any direction except towards the V-slot. I guess I will be trying again in a week or two, but I really think it would be helpful if I could replicate the move in the gym, instead of it being 8 bolts high and on a route that I can only get to once a month. The thing is, there is this really shitty little bump below the V-slot, and I can ALMOST see myself holding it... LOL. No, I know, useless distraction, I need to be thinking about jumping... Wait, when you say you don't climb dynamically do you mean that you don't dyno or you climb everything static (ie - you won't "pop" for a hold). All of the above-written long-winded angst is about one specific dyno on Apollo, where I seem to be getting closer to the hold statically than dynamically, because the dynamic move is from a really awkward position and I can't seem to create the momentum that would carry me in the right direction. I actually DO "pop" to holds pretty regularly. All-out dyno-- not so much, but I am trying. You keep saying this word, "pop." I do not think it means what you think it means. And, as Dr.Ivel or I can attest, the v-slot move on Apollo is not particularly awkward; the key to momentum on it is all in the left foot. It would be cool to set a simulator porbelm in the gym with it, though. More random stuff: Spencer was apparently asking Chris about who my "nice gay friend" was. Chris was like, "uhh, that was Dan, you know, the photographer? Then Spencer wondered again is Banz was teh ghey. Heh. certainly GU'd? but i'm sure she's not talking about the pop to the v slot. Probably talking about the obligatory huck at the 4th bolt? it's true that it's awkward to set it up. it's also true that NOT hucking makes it v6 or 7 instead of 3ish. apparently I'm rong. ohwell. but yeah. like camhat said, there's not a lot of upper body movement or even pulling in that move, so much as just locking the fuck off w your right hand which is taped so you don't fucking lose it at teh first knuckle, holding on for dear life with your right heel, and pushin with your left foot to rotate your body. the really hard part for the shorties is releasing the lockoff of your right hand at just the correct moment, so that you can actually reach the hold. taller gerks just have to rotate their bodies. Ah, that makes sense. I do get to within about 2 in of the V-slot by doing just that (locking the shit out of the right arm, pushing with the left foot, and rotating the body-- I call that "going to the hold staticly", even though there is the push from the left leg), but then I am fully and completely stuck with my lockoff being at it's max, elbow digging into the body and the right hand right next to and below the shoulder. I need to be thinking about RELEASING it at the right time. Seriously, people, I don't think this sort of beta micro-analysis has ever been done in BET. uhhh ... teh BET existed long before you posted hear. Yes. But are you trying to say that this sort of micro-beta analysis had been done by gerks before? Probibly. I've been skimming the Apollo beta, but we've broken down the cruxes of the beaver, clean and jerk, LST, and numerous other josh routes. Now, if I could only figure out that 18" of climbing on the JJF. I assume this refers to teh JJC?
Carp. this is correct. The hardest and greasiest 18" of crack climbing known to mahn.
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snoopy138
Aug 26, 2013, 5:59 PM
Post #100643 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: weke-end report Saturday we drove up to Lion's Head. This is supposed to be Ontario’s best cliff, a mini Ceause if you well. I only have made it this far as of yet, but this sounds a lot like the claim of malibu creke being kalymnos' punky little brother. That's exactally what it's like.
I just booked my tickets to teh lion's head!
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snoopy138
Aug 26, 2013, 6:00 PM
Post #100644 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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granite_grrl wrote: cracklover wrote: Wekend report: Wife and I climbzed the spurt climbz. One of the routes I was interested in I sent in just a couple tries, the other one I could not get up at all. Is it possible that two weeks of alpine climbing does not put one in the best spurt climbing shape? At least I remembered how to do the Texas Rope Trick, so didn't have to face the indignity of leaving a biner behind. The wife got what the guidebook said was only her second 11d, but discovered that MP downgraded it. She actually agrees that it's only 11c, so whatever. Still, woulda been nice. Then, on the tyrolean back over the creek, I somehow got a big flap of skin on my arm caught between the biner and the tyrolean rope. Holy crap that hurt. GO I gave a a shot of indignation when he was going to bail off a route leaving a quicklink. He had the gall to tell me that a quicklink and a cheap biner were the exact same thing....what? But both you and this guy have to learn how to use a stick clip better. There should never be an excuse to leave gear behind.
who is "he"? I assume this is not chossy.
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snoopy138
Aug 26, 2013, 6:01 PM
Post #100645 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: cracklover wrote: Wekend report: Wife and I climbzed the spurt climbz. One of the routes I was interested in I sent in just a couple tries, the other one I could not get up at all. Is it possible that two weeks of alpine climbing does not put one in the best spurt climbing shape? At least I remembered how to do the Texas Rope Trick, so didn't have to face the indignity of leaving a biner behind. The wife got what the guidebook said was only her second 11d, but discovered that MP downgraded it. She actually agrees that it's only 11c, so whatever. Still, woulda been nice. Then, on the tyrolean back over the creek, I somehow got a big flap of skin on my arm caught between the biner and the tyrolean rope. Holy crap that hurt. GO I gave a a shot of indignation when he was going to bail off a route leaving a quicklink. He had the gall to tell me that a quicklink and a cheap biner were the exact same thing....what? But both you and this guy have to learn how to use a stick clip better. There should never be an excuse to leave gear behind. Yeah, but sometimes, if you are, like 3 bolts up on a long climb, it would be too much trouble to stick-clip all the way to the top. Still, you have a pointe! Banz is like a wizard with a squid, he can take teh draws off with it better than anyone, and I've been practicing with it, though I'm still nowhere near as good as he is. I think he is actually in Trango's instructional video of how to use a squid. Pulled a good one on Banz yesterday. Got on a new route of his at the Other Place just right of Depth Charge, fun 11b jughaul through a roof. I txt'd him, "hey, is that your route just right of Depth Charge? One of the bolts pulled out." He flipped his shit, hehe.
ha.
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snoopy138
Aug 26, 2013, 6:02 PM
Post #100646 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
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granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: cracklover wrote: Wekend report: Wife and I climbzed the spurt climbz. One of the routes I was interested in I sent in just a couple tries, the other one I could not get up at all. Is it possible that two weeks of alpine climbing does not put one in the best spurt climbing shape? At least I remembered how to do the Texas Rope Trick, so didn't have to face the indignity of leaving a biner behind. The wife got what the guidebook said was only her second 11d, but discovered that MP downgraded it. She actually agrees that it's only 11c, so whatever. Still, woulda been nice. Then, on the tyrolean back over the creek, I somehow got a big flap of skin on my arm caught between the biner and the tyrolean rope. Holy crap that hurt. GO I gave a a shot of indignation when he was going to bail off a route leaving a quicklink. He had the gall to tell me that a quicklink and a cheap biner were the exact same thing....what? But both you and this guy have to learn how to use a stick clip better. There should never be an excuse to leave gear behind. Yeah, but sometimes, if you are, like 3 bolts up on a long climb, it would be too much trouble to stick-clip all the way to the top. Still, you have a pointe! Banz is like a wizard with a squid, he can take teh draws off with it better than anyone, and I've been practicing with it, though I'm still nowhere near as good as he is. I think he is actually in Trango's instructional video of how to use a squid. I hate the squid. Spring clamp 4 lyfe!
durp.
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snoopy138
Aug 26, 2013, 6:03 PM
Post #100647 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
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caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: drivel wrote: drivel wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: No posts for FOUR DAYS? What a disgrace! O.K., I'll spray. Went to the Gnu this weakend. Had a good time and did NOT cry. Saturday was awesome temps, lightweight long-sleeve weather, low humidity. Climbed at the Other Place with Banz and two of his friends. Camhead bailed on us and went on spider-clearing tour of obscure carcks. No accounting for taste. We had the place to ourselves all day. Highlight of the day-- sending Tiggers and Airplanes. It's an 11d that I've been on before, a couple of years ago. Onsighted it to the last move back then, then flailed around the last bolt until I determined that there really was no way to do the move other than the dyno. Which I then tried a whole bunch of times and finally stuck once. I dunno if this counts as one attempt or one hundred and forty one, but I only tied in once. Anyway, this time around, I got a serious pep talk from Banz: "O.K., Lena, you know you'll have to jump. You know there is no other way to do it. Just freaking go for it, O.K.? Just once, please, can you all-out freaking jump for something?" I said O.K., tied in, and started climbing. I didn't remember the moves up high, but I definitely remembered that there was nothing good to hold on to, and that I had to jump. Then Matt and Chad, who were warming up around the corner, walked over. They missed the pep talk from Banz, but Matt knew I wasn't onsighting, so he was giving a blow-by-blow description to Chad, who has never been on the route. "O.k. , kinda hard move right off the ground, then it eases up a lot, rest right before the roof, the roof is just pumpy, but gigantic jugs, and then it is just a big dyno. Right there, she is about to do it... SHIT!" (said in a tone of voice that means, O.K. she is off, she screwed up)... long pause... then... "WTF just happened? She DIDN'T JUMP! And she didn't fall. WTF? What did she grab? There is nothing there!" would have been cooler if you jumped. He makes a good poynte. Durp. Learning to jump will open up many more new possible routes for you than crimping harder. LOL, I want to be like that troll who is posting in the technique forums about "how do I climb overhangs". I wonder if someone can tell me how to jump? Poor Banz said "just jump, O.K.?", and "just go, now", and " just try" so many times on Apollo, I think the other guys were thinking that it was a loop recorder. I tried. But I reach higher on the V-slot move if I don't jump then I do if I try to go dynamic. Obviously, I can't reach high enough statically. I have only tried it a 100 times or so, but I did get the point, I NEED to jump. I get it. But every time I try, I end up looking retarded and going into any direction except towards the V-slot. I guess I will be trying again in a week or two, but I really think it would be helpful if I could replicate the move in the gym, instead of it being 8 bolts high and on a route that I can only get to once a month. The thing is, there is this really shitty little bump below the V-slot, and I can ALMOST see myself holding it... LOL. No, I know, useless distraction, I need to be thinking about jumping... Wait, when you say you don't climb dynamically do you mean that you don't dyno or you climb everything static (ie - you won't "pop" for a hold). All of the above-written long-winded angst is about one specific dyno on Apollo, where I seem to be getting closer to the hold statically than dynamically, because the dynamic move is from a really awkward position and I can't seem to create the momentum that would carry me in the right direction. I actually DO "pop" to holds pretty regularly. All-out dyno-- not so much, but I am trying. You keep saying this word, "pop." I do not think it means what you think it means. And, as Dr.Ivel or I can attest, the v-slot move on Apollo is not particularly awkward; the key to momentum on it is all in the left foot. It would be cool to set a simulator porbelm in the gym with it, though. More random stuff: Spencer was apparently asking Chris about who my "nice gay friend" was. Chris was like, "uhh, that was Dan, you know, the photographer? Then Spencer wondered again is Banz was teh ghey. Heh. certainly GU'd? but i'm sure she's not talking about the pop to the v slot. Probably talking about the obligatory huck at the 4th bolt? it's true that it's awkward to set it up. it's also true that NOT hucking makes it v6 or 7 instead of 3ish. apparently I'm rong. ohwell. but yeah. like camhat said, there's not a lot of upper body movement or even pulling in that move, so much as just locking the fuck off w your right hand which is taped so you don't fucking lose it at teh first knuckle, holding on for dear life with your right heel, and pushin with your left foot to rotate your body. the really hard part for the shorties is releasing the lockoff of your right hand at just the correct moment, so that you can actually reach the hold. taller gerks just have to rotate their bodies. Ah, that makes sense. I do get to within about 2 in of the V-slot by doing just that (locking the shit out of the right arm, pushing with the left foot, and rotating the body-- I call that "going to the hold staticly", even though there is the push from the left leg), but then I am fully and completely stuck with my lockoff being at it's max, elbow digging into the body and the right hand right next to and below the shoulder. I need to be thinking about RELEASING it at the right time. Seriously, people, I don't think this sort of beta micro-analysis has ever been done in BET. uhhh ... teh BET existed long before you posted hear. Yes. But are you trying to say that this sort of micro-beta analysis had been done by gerks before? Probibly. I've been skimming the Apollo beta, but we've broken down the cruxes of the beaver, clean and jerk, LST, and numerous other josh routes. Now, if I could only figure out that 18" of climbing on the JJF. I assume this refers to teh JJC? Carp. this is correct. The hardest and greasiest 18" of crack climbing known to mahn.
beta pointe #1. don't stick teh yellow alien in teh only decent fingerlock.
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granite_grrl
Aug 26, 2013, 6:49 PM
Post #100648 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: cracklover wrote: Wekend report: Wife and I climbzed the spurt climbz. One of the routes I was interested in I sent in just a couple tries, the other one I could not get up at all. Is it possible that two weeks of alpine climbing does not put one in the best spurt climbing shape? At least I remembered how to do the Texas Rope Trick, so didn't have to face the indignity of leaving a biner behind. The wife got what the guidebook said was only her second 11d, but discovered that MP downgraded it. She actually agrees that it's only 11c, so whatever. Still, woulda been nice. Then, on the tyrolean back over the creek, I somehow got a big flap of skin on my arm caught between the biner and the tyrolean rope. Holy crap that hurt. GO I gave a a shot of indignation when he was going to bail off a route leaving a quicklink. He had the gall to tell me that a quicklink and a cheap biner were the exact same thing....what? But both you and this guy have to learn how to use a stick clip better. There should never be an excuse to leave gear behind. who is "he"? I assume this is not chossy.
Just some guy at the cliff. I was putting my pack back on and heard him ask his partner (who was two bolts up at this point, they had stick clipped both I think) if she wanted a quicklink to bail. I was that irritating bystander that had to pipe in with my opinion.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Aug 26, 2013, 9:12 PM
Post #100649 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: cracklover wrote: Wekend report: Wife and I climbzed the spurt climbz. One of the routes I was interested in I sent in just a couple tries, the other one I could not get up at all. Is it possible that two weeks of alpine climbing does not put one in the best spurt climbing shape? At least I remembered how to do the Texas Rope Trick, so didn't have to face the indignity of leaving a biner behind. The wife got what the guidebook said was only her second 11d, but discovered that MP downgraded it. She actually agrees that it's only 11c, so whatever. Still, woulda been nice. Then, on the tyrolean back over the creek, I somehow got a big flap of skin on my arm caught between the biner and the tyrolean rope. Holy crap that hurt. GO I gave a a shot of indignation when he was going to bail off a route leaving a quicklink. He had the gall to tell me that a quicklink and a cheap biner were the exact same thing....what? But both you and this guy have to learn how to use a stick clip better. There should never be an excuse to leave gear behind. Yeah, but sometimes, if you are, like 3 bolts up on a long climb, it would be too much trouble to stick-clip all the way to the top. Still, you have a pointe! Banz is like a wizard with a squid, he can take teh draws off with it better than anyone, and I've been practicing with it, though I'm still nowhere near as good as he is. I think he is actually in Trango's instructional video of how to use a squid. Pulled a good one on Banz yesterday. Got on a new route of his at the Other Place just right of Depth Charge, fun 11b jughaul through a roof. I txt'd him, "hey, is that your route just right of Depth Charge? One of the bolts pulled out." He flipped his shit, hehe.
You MEAN!
But I laffed.
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cracklover
Aug 26, 2013, 9:51 PM
Post #100650 of 105309
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: cracklover wrote: Wekend report: Wife and I climbzed the spurt climbz. One of the routes I was interested in I sent in just a couple tries, the other one I could not get up at all. Is it possible that two weeks of alpine climbing does not put one in the best spurt climbing shape? At least I remembered how to do the Texas Rope Trick, so didn't have to face the indignity of leaving a biner behind. The wife got what the guidebook said was only her second 11d, but discovered that MP downgraded it. She actually agrees that it's only 11c, so whatever. Still, woulda been nice. Then, on the tyrolean back over the creek, I somehow got a big flap of skin on my arm caught between the biner and the tyrolean rope. Holy crap that hurt. GO I gave a a shot of indignation when he was going to bail off a route leaving a quicklink. He had the gall to tell me that a quicklink and a cheap biner were the exact same thing....what? But both you and this guy have to learn how to use a stick clip better. There should never be an excuse to leave gear behind. who is "he"? I assume this is not chossy. Just some guy at the cliff. I was putting my pack back on and heard him ask his partner (who was two bolts up at this point, they had stick clipped both I think) if she wanted a quicklink to bail. I was that irritating bystander that had to pipe in with my opinion.
You do realize that Texas Rope Trick means I did *not* leave anything behind, right?
BTW, I rarely carry a stick clip with me when sport climbing. And I believe the only time I've ever left anything behind when bailing was seven pitches up an alpine route, left a small nut, a chunk of cord, and a biner. I don't think your stick clip would have helped much.
GO
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