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smearhound
Feb 20, 2005, 9:43 PM
Post #26 of 37
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Registered: Dec 16, 2004
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: (both pairs have SR rand) I seem to recall from the Evolv site that the toe rand option makes the shoe a wee bit stiffer. Do you notice any difficulty smearing? Have you tried the Bandits or Kaos without the SR rand? Haven't worn them without the SR rand. They both smear well. I find the bandits to smear a little better. They out-smear my mythos. Out edge them too. Comfort- same. Winner- Bandits, tho they aren't that kick ass purple color.
Great -- this is very helpful. Maybe Evolv will dye a pair of Bandits for me so that I won't feel so helpless on the next runout! Thanks.
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angelaa
Feb 23, 2005, 8:38 PM
Post #27 of 37
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Registered: May 21, 2003
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has anyone asked What kind of cracks are you climbing?
I LOVE my anasazi's in sandstone! didn't think I would like something that soft when I first got them, but they slide right in nicely and hold well too!
not sure I would want to use them in granite cracks - probably stick with my (OLD) hightops for that - - - what happened to all the hightops!?!?!
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tenesmus
Feb 23, 2005, 8:58 PM
Post #28 of 37
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Registered: Jul 27, 2004
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Its interesting to hear that Bandits do so well in cracks. I fit mine tight and they are killer for granite bouldering. Makes me want to get a bigger pair for cracks.
Here's the question: Should I get them a whole size bigger or a half? Will they stretch a little? What is this option of toe rand?
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urbanfood
Feb 23, 2005, 9:09 PM
Post #29 of 37
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Registered: Feb 7, 2005
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i'd get them so they fit comfortably. i think the jamming your foot into the shoe till it bleeds is overated. in my opinion, it's better to have a comfy pair of shoes that you enjoy wearing and then you can climb cracks all day long. i wish my aces were a 1/2 size bigger.
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climbinginchico
Feb 23, 2005, 9:59 PM
Post #30 of 37
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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In reply to: Its interesting to hear that Bandits do so well in cracks. I fit mine tight and they are killer for granite bouldering. Makes me want to get a bigger pair for cracks. Here's the question: Should I get them a whole size bigger or a half? Will they stretch a little? What is this option of toe rand?
Mine are sized so they are snug with my toes still flat. Snug enough for performance, yet comfortable enough to wear all day without taking them off.
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leinosaur
Feb 23, 2005, 10:01 PM
Post #31 of 37
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Registered: Oct 6, 2003
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In reply to: Back in the pre-sport climbing era of the mid-80's, all they made was high-top shoes that had a leather patch where your ankle bone sticks out, because otherwise it (the bone) would get all chewed up in cracks in the 4" to 8" range. I would never recommend low top shoes, like moccasyms or mythos, for crack climbing because once you start getting into wider cracks, you need that ankle-bone covered up. But do they even make high-top climbing shoes anymore?
from K-mac's Salt Lake OR TR:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=48018
high-top huecos, basically; sounds good. my other huecos are super comfy all day, cracks or whatnot, but the boxy toe didn't do much for me on the little finger-crack I was flailing around on, last sunday.
Also, my first pair were La Sportiva Enduros - high-tops, they were, but already discontinued when I got 'em - that's why they were $40! Good all-day shoe though, board-lasted, a beginner shoe if that means built to last.
edit a few weeks later - I put the Enduros back into service for a bunch of hands-to-offwidth widening splitters, and they're great. Board-lasted, etc. and good ankle protection. I still need plenty of work on my offwidth techniques, but it ain't the shoes that are the problem!
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angry
Apr 3, 2005, 2:46 PM
Post #32 of 37
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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OK I don't disagree with the people here saying that Evolve Bandits are a good crack shoe, they are. Especially if you have to edge a lot outside the crack.
Evolve does make a shoe that for pure foot/toe/or a little teeny part of the rand in the crack climbing is better. It's more comfortable, softer, cheaper, and you can crank in it. It's the Quest. It doesn't look as bling as the Bandit but it's fabulous. I've used mine on hard single pitch lines, multi-pitch lines in Yosemite (as hard as 11c), offwidth, and in a pinch bouldering. I've never found these shoes lacking in any aspect.
My beta is to own 2 pairs of identical Quests and one pair of Bandits.
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karlbaba
Apr 3, 2005, 3:17 PM
Post #33 of 37
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In reply to: Back in the pre-sport climbing era of the mid-80's, all they made was high-top shoes that had a leather patch where your ankle bone sticks out, because otherwise it (the bone) would get all chewed up in cracks in the 4" to 8" range. I would never recommend low top shoes, like moccasyms or mythos, for crack climbing because once you start getting into wider cracks, you need that ankle-bone covered up. But do they even make high-top climbing shoes anymore?
High top shoes are, in my opinion, unnecessary. If someone is just starting as a crack climber, stiff shoes and high top shoes can be a helpful crutch.
If you need ankle protection, wear neoprene or elastic ankle braces under your shoes for the wicked pitch.
Otherwise, stiff shoes are a serious liability in cracks smaller than hands. You can't fit the toes in. When Potter soloed astroman, he brought two pairs of shoes, slippers for the cracks, and stiff ones for the face climbing. You need some stiffness to stand on tiny edges.
Peace
karl
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gunksgoer
Apr 3, 2005, 3:52 PM
Post #34 of 37
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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i use my sportiva mythos for cracks. theyre sized so my feet lie basically flat, and they slot into thinner cracks well. the one problem ive had with them is the weird leather overlap thing that the laces go thru (like an eyelet) is starting to come unsewn. i figure ill find a resoler who can sew it back and cover it with an extra big rand. The laces are starting to look frayed in one spot as well, and im hoping a i will be able to replace them, but the weird lacing system will probably make it hard.
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jaybro
Apr 4, 2005, 3:41 AM
Post #35 of 37
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Registered: Feb 2, 2005
Posts: 441
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Karl, you're the man, and mostly I agree with you, most of us will never need high top shoes;
However
What about when you put your foot over your head? espeacially in a heel toe? slippers were not made for: the Owl, Trench warfare, Comfortably Numb, Squat and many others.
There is a time for (almost) everything; Unecessary is not the same as rarely needed; kids, use tools as appropriate.
Most of us don't need to own bat hooks, either.
There only a few climbs I use high tops or bat hooks on.
All in fun, but for real
Jay
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boymeetsrock
Apr 7, 2005, 7:11 PM
Post #36 of 37
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Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709
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the lasportiva focus is an excelent crack shoe. It takes some practice to edge well with them, but in a corner or a crack, they're like portable stairs.
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dirtme
Apr 7, 2005, 10:16 PM
Post #37 of 37
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Registered: Feb 6, 2003
Posts: 107
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Moccs here too. I size them the same as my street shoe. I wear them pretty dang loose but they're nice and comfy for the gym and can do thin crack. I also have a pair of Mythos and Megas. I like the Mythos but for some strange reason I like them better in the creek then in the valley. The megas are only good for hand and above cracks. Everything else face and thin, I feel really sketchy.
Mythos stretch quite a bit too so size them appropriately.
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