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majid_sabet
May 25, 2005, 8:17 PM
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Well, I like to see a photo from that bolt, I also like to know who drilled a bolt near a sharp rock or a edge. And do you guys drill a hole near a sharp rock ? ro you think about what if, ......!
does any one ever asks or thinks about what they are doing out there.
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pheenixx
May 25, 2005, 8:17 PM
Post #127 of 188
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In reply to: Any time you take a soft gear such as webbing, rope, sling etc and you bend a loop, that loop itself becomes the weakest part of that system or webbing etc.
I believe this is incorrect..?? I was always taught that a "knot" causes a weak point NOT A "LOOP". Hense, spectra is always supposed to be "sewn" and not knotted so it maintains it's rating..?
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blonde_loves_bolts
May 25, 2005, 8:21 PM
Post #128 of 188
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In reply to: Well, I like to see a photo from that bolt, I also like to know who drilled a bolt near a sharp rock or a edge. And do you guys drill a hole near a sharp rock ? ro you think about what if, ......! does any one ever asks or thinks about what they are doing out there.
You are... the weakest link!!!
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majid_sabet
May 25, 2005, 8:22 PM
Post #129 of 188
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you are crushing, forcing and putting tension the soft material in tight loop. do this ,get a knife and bend pc of webbing and apply force then try the same thing on a pc of webbing on a stright line both under tension.
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pheenixx
May 25, 2005, 8:23 PM
Post #130 of 188
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In reply to: In reply to: Even on sport routes where rock fall is not a problem, you should still wear your helmet. There is no downside to wearing it, unless you are trying to climb at your limit, in which case the downside is that it is cumbersome.
If you are climbing "at your limit" even more reason to wear it. Helmets are not just about rockfall... jeese people. Do you wear seatbelts while on the freeway..? Anybody here study the physics of "bodies in motion" & impact force..? I hope your guardian angel is there to hold your head safely away from a rock when you fall... :shock: seriously.
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vegastradguy
May 25, 2005, 8:23 PM
Post #131 of 188
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In reply to: In reply to: Any time you take a soft gear such as webbing, rope, sling etc and you bend a loop, that loop itself becomes the weakest part of that system or webbing etc. I believe this is incorrect..?? I was always taught that a "knot" causes a weak point NOT A "LOOP". Hense, spectra is always supposed to be "sewn" and not knotted so it maintains it's rating..?
it is incorrect. when you create a loop in webbing, you actually double its strength, not weaken it. (well, not quite double, but theoretically its pretty close). Once you knot the sling, thats where the weakness comes in (usually about 20ish%, depending on the knot).
Tied slings can be just as strong or stronger than sewn slings, depending on the webbing used to make them. 1" tubular webbing clocks in at something like 30kn after the weakness for the knot is taken into account.
The reason spectra has to be sewn is because of how slippery it is- it can't hold a knot as well as nylon. So, slings with a really high spectra content need to be sewn. (Actually, I don't think you can buy spectra webbing on a spool without going out of your way to do so...). Some spectra blends, like Mtntools webolette, is designed to hold a knot, but for the most part, they need to be sewn.
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jcpace
May 25, 2005, 8:23 PM
Post #132 of 188
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In reply to: This was the op of a thread. In reply to: I lost one of my BD neutrino quickdraws at JTree this past weekend (5/06/05) and am wondering if anyone picked it up. I am not quite sure where and when it was lost, but i was at Headstone, Saddle rock, lenticular dome, and n. astro dome. chuckle
Which reminds me...Anyone seen it? It was last seen with a a couple of overweight ground squirrels. One of em had a drinking problem, I remember:http://www.geocities.com/...ace/squirrelbeer.jpg
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vegastradguy
May 25, 2005, 8:25 PM
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In reply to: you are crushing, forcing and putting tension the soft material in tight loop. do this ,get a knife and bend pc of webbing and apply force then try the same thing on a pc of webbing on a stright line both under tension.
wrong! try again.
In reply to: Well, I like to see a photo from that bolt, I also like to know who drilled a bolt near a sharp rock or a edge. And do you guys drill a hole near a sharp rock ? ro you think about what if, ......! does any one ever asks or thinks about what they are doing out there.
and he finally catches up....
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vegastradguy
May 25, 2005, 8:28 PM
Post #134 of 188
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Even on sport routes where rock fall is not a problem, you should still wear your helmet. There is no downside to wearing it, unless you are trying to climb at your limit, in which case the downside is that it is cumbersome. If you are climbing "at your limit" even more reason to wear it. Helmets are not just about rockfall... jeese people. Do you wear seatbelts while on the freeway..? Anybody here study the physics of "bodies in motion" & impact force..? I hope your guardian angel is there to hold your head safely away from a rock when you fall... :shock: seriously.
although in a perfect world, we should all wear our helmets, often times we do not. those, like ike, who spend their time on incredibly insane overhanging sport routes, find that a helmet is more trouble than it is worth. of course, ike fully realizes that there is some inherent risk in not wearing a helmet, and i suspect that he's willing to accept that risk.
personally, i dont wear a helmet when sport climbing either, more out of laziness than anything. i probably should...maybe i will...who knows?
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jcpace
May 25, 2005, 8:30 PM
Post #135 of 188
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In reply to: does any one ever asks or thinks about what they are doing out there.
absolutely not! We are all as reckless as hell, drilling bolts near sharp objects, not wearing helmets on our asses, looping webbing, drinking Corona, using microfractured carabiners, looking straight into the sun, and not calling our mamas on the weekend. Yep, we're all heading in the general direction of hell.
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majid_sabet
May 25, 2005, 8:33 PM
Post #136 of 188
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How do you guys post photos ?
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fitzontherocks
May 25, 2005, 8:43 PM
Post #137 of 188
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I use a thumbtack in my cubicle.
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crimpandgo
May 25, 2005, 8:46 PM
Post #138 of 188
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In reply to: In reply to: Any time you take a soft gear such as webbing, rope, sling etc and you bend a loop, that loop itself becomes the weakest part of that system or webbing etc. I believe this is incorrect..?? I was always taught that a "knot" causes a weak point NOT A "LOOP". Hense, spectra is always supposed to be "sewn" and not knotted so it maintains it's rating..?
I thought spectra was supposed to be sewn because it won't "hold" a knot.
And a knot is actually a series of bends. Is it the "pressure" of the knot that weakens it? or the bends the knot makes.?
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jt512
May 25, 2005, 8:54 PM
Post #139 of 188
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Even on sport routes where rock fall is not a problem, you should still wear your helmet. There is no downside to wearing it, unless you are trying to climb at your limit, in which case the downside is that it is cumbersome. If you are climbing "at your limit" even more reason to wear it. Helmets are not just about rockfall... jeese people. Do you wear seatbelts while on the freeway..? Anybody here study the physics of "bodies in motion" & impact force..? I hope your guardian angel is there to hold your head safely away from a rock when you fall... :shock: seriously.
Actually, using your head can keep your head away from the rock in a fall. That's why sport climbers can take dozens of falls while working a route and not be noticeably brain damaged (though, clearly this is not the case for boulderers).
-Jay
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jt512
May 25, 2005, 9:02 PM
Post #140 of 188
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In reply to: Am I the only person who carries different length draws to make sure the biners don't hit the rock poorly? If it had been a longer or shorter draw it may not have rubbed so poorly under a fall.
I do too, but if there is a sharp protrusion from in the rock, I'd probably use a long draw so that the biner wouldn't contact the protrusion. I would have never thought that the webbing might cut through.
Looking forward to seeing the picture of the edge that cut this draw.
-Jay
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jw11733
May 25, 2005, 9:09 PM
Post #141 of 188
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Interesting side note about spectra - although it is stronger than nylon, most spectra slings are no harder to cut on sharp edges than nylon - try it. The reason is, most companies take advantage of the strength of spectra to make a smaller, lighter slings, which are about as easy to cut through as their beefier nylon counterparts.
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fitzontherocks
May 25, 2005, 9:26 PM
Post #142 of 188
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OK, but what about chipping the offending razor-nub? Are you for it or agin it?
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ikefromla
May 25, 2005, 9:32 PM
Post #143 of 188
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Even on sport routes where rock fall is not a problem, you should still wear your helmet. There is no downside to wearing it, unless you are trying to climb at your limit, in which case the downside is that it is cumbersome. If you are climbing "at your limit" even more reason to wear it. Helmets are not just about rockfall... jeese people. Do you wear seatbelts while on the freeway..? Anybody here study the physics of "bodies in motion" & impact force..? I hope your guardian angel is there to hold your head safely away from a rock when you fall... :shock: seriously. although in a perfect world, we should all wear our helmets, often times we do not. those, like ike, who spend their time on incredibly insane overhanging sport routes, find that a helmet is more trouble than it is worth. of course, ike fully realizes that there is some inherent risk in not wearing a helmet, and i suspect that he's willing to accept that risk. personally, i dont wear a helmet when sport climbing either, more out of laziness than anything. i probably should...maybe i will...who knows?
you and Jay both nailed it.
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pheenixx
May 25, 2005, 10:24 PM
Post #144 of 188
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Registered: May 22, 2004
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In reply to: I thought spectra was supposed to be sewn because it won't "hold" a knot. |
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slacklinejoe
May 25, 2005, 10:31 PM
Post #145 of 188
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After carefully reading over this thread I came to the following conclusion:
http://www.slacklineexpress.com/thisthreadsuck.jpg
However, I'd still like to see a pic of the bolt placement. It could have been an inadvertant time bomb.
Pheenix: When I posted on draw length I mistook the photo for the rope end failing, not the bolt end failing. Indeed, draw length would have not effected it in OP's case, but instead in the Petzl draw failure it might have prevented a fatality (or following any known standards for anchors).
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caughtinside
May 25, 2005, 11:09 PM
Post #146 of 188
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In reply to: OK, but what about chipping the offending razor-nub? Are you for it or agin it?
Run a hammer over it. Problem solved.
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jakk
May 25, 2005, 11:11 PM
Post #147 of 188
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In reply to: Pheenix: When I posted on draw length I mistook the photo for the rope end failing, not the bolt end failing. Indeed, draw length would have not effected it in OP's case, but instead in the Petzl draw failure it might have prevented a fatality (or following any known standards for anchors).
Actually, in the Petzl draw failure the quickdraw had been hung upside down - the bent gate biner (fixed with the usual rubber 'string') was on top, so there as well it was the bolt end of the dogbone that failed.
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jcpace
May 25, 2005, 11:26 PM
Post #148 of 188
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In reply to: OK, but what about chipping the offending razor-nub? Are you for it or agin it?
Mine's not a nub, but some people find it offending. But that's only after a few drinks.
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pheenixx
May 25, 2005, 11:29 PM
Post #149 of 188
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Registered: May 22, 2004
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In reply to: In reply to: Pheenix: When I posted on draw length I mistook the photo for the rope end failing, not the bolt end failing. Indeed, draw length would have not effected it in OP's case, but instead in the Petzl draw failure it might have prevented a fatality (or following any known standards for anchors). Actually, in the Petzl draw failure the quickdraw had been hung upside down - the bent gate biner (fixed with the usual rubber 'string') was on top, so there as well it was the bolt end of the dogbone that failed.
Where can I find more details/pics of the Petzel draw failure - sorry I missed it if it was in this forum or another. pm me if long response - thanks.
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climbalon
May 26, 2005, 12:47 AM
Post #150 of 188
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majid, your a f*cking spazz
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