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English VS US trad Rack.
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jelliott


Aug 3, 2005, 5:51 PM
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Re: English VS US trad Rack. [In reply to]
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thats the thing... They dont exist! You shouldnt call them anything, because they are a made up hoax.
im not kidding
-harrison

Yes perpetrated by the big climbing companies to get you to buy more biners


petsfed


Aug 5, 2005, 4:56 AM
Post #102 of 116 (11140 views)
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Re: English VS US trad Rack. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
thats the thing... They dont exist! You shouldnt call them anything, because they are a made up hoax.
im not kidding
-harrison

Yes perpetrated by the big climbing companies to get you to buy more biners

Ironically disproven by those self-same climbing companies. Look it up, its cool stuff!


king_rat


Aug 5, 2005, 11:48 AM
Post #103 of 116 (11140 views)
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Registered: Jul 20, 2005
Posts: 365

Re: English VS US trad Rack. [In reply to]
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Returning to the original troll, KR's generalizations about U.K. climbing practices are just as bogus as his conclusions about U.S. practices.

For example, the following advice about racks comes from from Needlsports.com:

"...these notes are very personal and are only intended to give an idea of a suitable rack for leading long pitches at the upper end of your grade ability."

Friends 0 - 3.5.

Two sets wired stoppers (18 pieces).

One set RP's plus two micro-rocs.

Three Rockcentrics (useful for belays).

Twelve Quickdraws, four in each of three lengths.

Six slings in two lengths.

9 free biners.

Four screw-gates.

Not nearly as lean as KR would have us believe.

I take offence that you are referring to me as a troll, it would seem that at least half the people posting have agreed with me. My observation may have been a generalization but, but it was a genuine.

KR


ajkclay


Aug 5, 2005, 2:01 PM
Post #104 of 116 (11140 views)
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Re: English VS US trad Rack. [In reply to]
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Returning to the original troll, KR's generalizations about U.K. climbing practices are just as bogus as his conclusions about U.S. practices.

For example, the following advice about racks comes from from Needlsports.com:

"...these notes are very personal and are only intended to give an idea of a suitable rack for leading long pitches at the upper end of your grade ability."

Friends 0 - 3.5.

Two sets wired stoppers (18 pieces).

One set RP's plus two micro-rocs.

Three Rockcentrics (useful for belays).

Twelve Quickdraws, four in each of three lengths.

Six slings in two lengths.

9 free biners.

Four screw-gates.

Not nearly as lean as KR would have us believe.

and anyone with even a little experience could tell you that this list must be for someone who belongs to the metal-storm set.

Damn that's a lot of gear! I wish I was rich enough to own that much hardware! Not that I would need it, but then I guess I would have a spare rack :D

If you think he was trolling then you obviously haven't climbed in the UK or Australia.


Partner rgold


Aug 5, 2005, 3:16 PM
Post #105 of 116 (11140 views)
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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
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Re: English VS US trad Rack. [In reply to]
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I take offence that you are referring to me as a troll, it would seem that at least half the people posting have agreed with me. My observation may have been a generalization but, but it was a genuine.

I don't know what genuine means in this context, but the thread has had 101 replies as I write this, twelve of which can be interpreted as agreeing with you. Your claim that 12 out of 101 is at least half the responders illuminates as well as anything I said previously the reliability of your generalizations.


piton


Aug 5, 2005, 3:40 PM
Post #106 of 116 (11140 views)
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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Re: English VS US trad Rack. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Returning to the original troll, KR's generalizations about U.K. climbing practices are just as bogus as his conclusions about U.S. practices.

For example, the following advice about racks comes from from Needlsports.com:

"...these notes are very personal and are only intended to give an idea of a suitable rack for leading long pitches at the upper end of your grade ability."

Friends 0 - 3.5.

Two sets wired stoppers (18 pieces).

One set RP's plus two micro-rocs.

Three Rockcentrics (useful for belays).

Twelve Quickdraws, four in each of three lengths.

Six slings in two lengths.

9 free biners.

Four screw-gates.

Not nearly as lean as KR would have us believe.

and anyone with even a little experience could tell you that this list must be for someone who belongs to the metal-storm set.

Damn that's a lot of gear! I wish I was rich enough to own that much hardware! Not that I would need it, but then I guess I would have a spare rack :D

If you think he was trolling then you obviously haven't climbed in the UK or Australia.

yeah and rgold obviously does not have work the moves on a 5.4 like your fat aussie kiwi eating ass does :) ajkclay australian for queer huh mate


ajkclay


Aug 5, 2005, 4:29 PM
Post #107 of 116 (11140 views)
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Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 1567

Re: English VS US trad Rack. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
Returning to the original troll, KR's generalizations about U.K. climbing practices are just as bogus as his conclusions about U.S. practices.

For example, the following advice about racks comes from from Needlsports.com:

"...these notes are very personal and are only intended to give an idea of a suitable rack for leading long pitches at the upper end of your grade ability."

Friends 0 - 3.5.

Two sets wired stoppers (18 pieces).

One set RP's plus two micro-rocs.

Three Rockcentrics (useful for belays).

Twelve Quickdraws, four in each of three lengths.

Six slings in two lengths.

9 free biners.

Four screw-gates.

Not nearly as lean as KR would have us believe.

and anyone with even a little experience could tell you that this list must be for someone who belongs to the metal-storm set.

Damn that's a lot of gear! I wish I was rich enough to own that much hardware! Not that I would need it, but then I guess I would have a spare rack :D

If you think he was trolling then you obviously haven't climbed in the UK or Australia.

yeah and rgold obviously does not have work the moves on a 5.4 like your fat aussie kiwi eating ass does :) ajkclay australian for queer huh mate

What the hell are you talking about? And what gives with the pathetic attempt at insulting me?

5.4? Man that's hard! I'd need three racks to protect something that difficult! But then adding all that weight to my massive 67kg frame would just overpower my weak-as-a-kitten queer-arms. Maybe I should get someone to lead it for me so I don't have to worry about it huh?

BTW, calling someone a queer doesn't mean much if they're not homophobic, but then I guess a redneck wouldn't understand this. Maybe you should have called me a nigger too! And maybe throw something in about being an Arab terrorist :)


piton


Aug 5, 2005, 5:10 PM
Post #108 of 116 (11140 views)
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Re: English VS US trad Rack. [In reply to]
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now entering flame war:

i was thinking more of lines of go suck off your kangaroo kiwi boy


ajkclay


Aug 5, 2005, 5:16 PM
Post #109 of 116 (11140 views)
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Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 1567

Re: English VS US trad Rack. [In reply to]
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now entering flame war:

i was thinking more of lines of go suck off your kangaroo kiwi boy

whatever

you don't even know the difference between an Aussie and a Kiwi pfft! :roll:

grow up


curt


Aug 5, 2005, 6:16 PM
Post #110 of 116 (11140 views)
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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I though the main difference was that they rack on the "wrong" side?

Curt


montaniero


Aug 5, 2005, 7:09 PM
Post #111 of 116 (11140 views)
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Registered: Jul 1, 2004
Posts: 238

Re: English VS US trad Rack. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
now entering flame war:

i was thinking more of lines of go suck off your kangaroo kiwi boy

whatever

you don't even know the difference between an Aussie and a Kiwi pfft! :roll:

grow up

WAY TO GO, AJKCLAY!


dirtineye


Aug 5, 2005, 9:18 PM
Post #112 of 116 (11140 views)
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Re: English VS US trad Rack. [In reply to]
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And you stupid Oz-wanks don't know the diff between a southern red neck and a damned yankee.

But I think I've figured out why you love your queer draws so much-- you've bolted evrything within an inch of its life down there.

Another batch of reasons to leave the queer draws behind on a trad climb:

You need to avoid having the biner rest over an edge for the pro you just placed. How are you going to do this with yoru stupid queer draw????

You have to make an emergency splint for an arm or leg, and all you have are your queer draws. If you had slings, you could use em to tighten the splint, but NOOOOOO!


blondgecko
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Aug 6, 2005, 2:15 AM
Post #113 of 116 (11140 views)
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Registered: Jul 2, 2004
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And you stupid Oz-wanks don't know the diff between a southern red neck and a damned yankee.

But I think I've figured out why you love your queer draws so much-- you've bolted evrything within an inch of its life down there.

Another batch of reasons to leave the queer draws behind on a trad climb:

You need to avoid having the biner rest over an edge for the pro you just placed. How are you going to do this with yoru stupid queer draw????

You have to make an emergency splint for an arm or leg, and all you have are your queer draws. If you had slings, you could use em to tighten the splint, but NOOOOOO!


Dude, time to have a Bex and a lie down. You're getting more and more incoherent.

Bolted everything to within an inch of its life?? :shock: :lol:

You've obviously never been to Australia. In Victoria, you're lucky to find anything under about 24 (5.11b, I think) that's bolted at all (though that's starting to change). In the Blue Mountains, much of the "sport" climbing is still on hand-drilled carrots in soft sandstone. Frog Buttress in Queensland has an almost entirely "trad-only" ethic, and debates constantly rage as to whether the few bolts there should be pulled. Even a Kangaroo Point, Brisbane's own sport-climbing "mecca" :lol:, many of the climbs have their first bolt 4-5 metres up, and it's common to have just 4 bolts in a 20m 5.8-5.10 climb.

I can think of two crags off the top of my head that are actually "heavily bolted" - I'm sure there's a few more, but this definitely isn't the norm. Get your facts straight.

I don't think a single person in any of the couple of hundred replies in these three threads has said that they take only quickdraws on trad climbs.

You know that in general you gain more respect when backing down when it's shown that you're wrong? It's still not too late.


mistertyler


Aug 6, 2005, 2:52 AM
Post #114 of 116 (11140 views)
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Re: English VS US trad Rack. [In reply to]
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Can we get the Aussies and Kiwis here to talk about the Underarm Incident of Feb. 1st 1981? Were the Aussies poor sports or the Kiwis just whiners?

/fans flames


dirtineye


Aug 6, 2005, 5:18 AM
Post #115 of 116 (11140 views)
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And you stupid Oz-wanks don't know the diff between a southern red neck and a damned yankee.

But I think I've figured out why you love your queer draws so much-- you've bolted evrything within an inch of its life down there.

Another batch of reasons to leave the queer draws behind on a trad climb:

You need to avoid having the biner rest over an edge for the pro you just placed. How are you going to do this with yoru stupid queer draw????

You have to make an emergency splint for an arm or leg, and all you have are your queer draws. If you had slings, you could use em to tighten the splint, but NOOOOOO!


Dude, time to have a Bex and a lie down. You're getting more and more incoherent.

Bolted everything to within an inch of its life?? :shock: :lol:

You've obviously never been to Australia. In Victoria, you're lucky to find anything under about 24 (5.11b, I think) that's bolted at all (though that's starting to change). In the Blue Mountains, much of the "sport" climbing is still on hand-drilled carrots in soft sandstone. Frog Buttress in Queensland has an almost entirely "trad-only" ethic, and debates constantly rage as to whether the few bolts there should be pulled. Even a Kangaroo Point, Brisbane's own sport-climbing "mecca" :lol:, many of the climbs have their first bolt 4-5 metres up, and it's common to have just 4 bolts in a 20m 5.8-5.10 climb.

I can think of two crags off the top of my head that are actually "heavily bolted" - I'm sure there's a few more, but this definitely isn't the norm. Get your facts straight.

I don't think a single person in any of the couple of hundred replies in these three threads has said that they take only quickdraws on trad climbs.

You know that in general you gain more respect when backing down when it's shown that you're wrong? It's still not too late.

HEy idiot, you don't fight flames with reasoned responses, you turn up the heat. stop spoiling the fun.

If I gave a shyte about OZ or going there, then I'd be worried about getting the fact straight, but this is a flame war.

Besides, one person did say they only took Queer draws up a trad climb, and it was jt512, a slime encrusted sporto. he doesn't even own any slings.


ajkclay


Aug 6, 2005, 1:04 PM
Post #116 of 116 (11140 views)
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Re: English VS US trad Rack. [In reply to]
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Can we get the Aussies and Kiwis here to talk about the Underarm Incident of Feb. 1st 1981? Were the Aussies poor sports or the Kiwis just whiners?

/fans flames

Aussie speaking here: Anything to beat those friggin Kiwi's is fair game, they would have done it if their feeble brains were not preoccupied with thinking about how fine our merino sheep are :lol:

But honestly, it was pretty poor sportsmanship :oops:

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