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ottoman
Nov 14, 2005, 11:15 PM
Post #26 of 43
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I have the steel BD's in the largest sizes(micro). and also 2 of the old style HB bronze nuts which i seem use more than the other....This is mostly single pitch stuff here(moores)...When doing multi.... everything goes with the me or the leader for that pitch! :P
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pipsqueekspire
Nov 15, 2005, 5:36 AM
Post #27 of 43
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PPP- Purely Psychological Pro
One thing I have not heard here yet is the fiddle factor versus saving your energy to just climb through. While climbing through is scarier I would argue it is safer to just move through a dicey section rather then fiddle with a tiny nut one handed getting tired then making it more likely you fall onto that PPP!
If there is a nice no hands stance right below a crux then fiddle away!
Another question- how many of you actually equalized 2 nuts on a sliding x on lead in a vertical crack? That is a big deal to do one handed! Not likely that I would spend that much time an energy unless it was a no hands rest. This just doesn't seem like it would happen very often- so far never in my 11 years of trad climbing. Not even on A4 do I bother to do this when I have the time and the stance.
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dudemanbu
Apr 16, 2006, 6:26 AM
Post #28 of 43
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In reply to: Another question- how many of you actually equalized 2 nuts on a sliding x on lead in a vertical crack? That is a big deal to do one handed! Not likely that I would spend that much time an energy unless it was a no hands rest. This just doesn't seem like it would happen very often- so far never in my 11 years of trad climbing. Not even on A4 do I bother to do this when I have the time and the stance.
It's not as bad as you think. Take a draw, extend it. clip both nuts. x the draw, clip another draw, clip rope.
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duncan_s
Apr 28, 2006, 3:17 AM
Post #29 of 43
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Does that not leave metal on metal or have I misunderstood?
I'll equalise gear on a route sometimes, normally if I get a nice ledge with a big run out above it and I'm using cams in horizontal cracks, I'll equalise if I can do it comfortably.
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glyrocks
Apr 28, 2006, 3:38 AM
Post #30 of 43
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In reply to: While climbing through is scarier I would argue it is safer to just move through a dicey section
tell that to my broken ankle and torn tendons.
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mesomorf
Apr 28, 2006, 3:42 AM
Post #31 of 43
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I have fallen on steep rock 25 feet onto a #1 Stopper, rated to 600 lbs.
It held.
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jakedatc
Apr 28, 2006, 4:01 AM
Post #32 of 43
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In reply to: Does that not leave metal on metal or have I misunderstood?
http://www.camp4.com/rock/images/deathx.gif
think of the left bolt as the first nut and biner from one end of the draw.. sling extended.. 2nd bolt/nut.. 2nd biner twist.. clip the next draw in where the single biner is. good to go
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duncan_s
Apr 28, 2006, 4:19 AM
Post #33 of 43
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I misunderstood! I use the same, although sometimes I would use an overhand, rather then the sliding knott, if I was more sure of one then the other.
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jimdavis
Apr 28, 2006, 5:05 AM
Post #34 of 43
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In reply to: I misunderstood! I use the same, although sometimes I would use an overhand, rather then the sliding knott, if I was more sure of one then the other.
You do that 1 handed? :shock:
Take a look over at the sliding x thread...trying that overhand knot defeats the purpose of "equalizing" them in the 1st place. You might as well just leave them as 2 seperate pieces if your gonna do that.
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duncan_s
Apr 28, 2006, 12:25 PM
Post #35 of 43
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No, only if on a ledge. I'm still processing all this stuff about equalisation, the only thing that confuses me slightly about why we have not heard more in the UK. All my training has warned against shock loading so it seems a little strange to set up anchors like that. I've never used a cordalette though, always a mix of slings with a clip in point for my rope.
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reg
Apr 28, 2006, 12:46 PM
Post #36 of 43
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In reply to: they are also useful for setting up oppositional type placements, and keeping other (full strength) pro from lifting out.
like he said - also and i hope i'm not reduntant with this but equalize a couple and you might have something :shock:
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 28, 2006, 2:08 PM
Post #37 of 43
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I fell off of P38 at the gunks in about 86-87? Its rated 5.9 in my book :D anyways I ripped a 3# Chiounard steel micro (the nut actually grooved out) I got the rope behind my leg, went upside down and was held inches off the ground by a #2 steel micro. The # 3 that ripped was a bad placement and the #2 that held was perfect. Since then i have ripped another #3 also a bad placement. INMOP the micros need to be perfectly placed in good rock. a screamer is also helpfull allong with multiple placements if possible. Properly placed micros can definatly save your life!!!
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antiqued
Apr 28, 2006, 5:29 PM
Post #38 of 43
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Registered: Aug 18, 2005
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Does anyone know of a US source for RPs? Repeated froogle and my simon searches have failed me.
I did buy some Chouinard steel micros, but I seem to place many RPs by putting the narrow side in, then rotating to the wide side. And the extra flare width of the Chouinards is unwelcome. Anyway, my RP "set" hasn't been a set for a while, and continues to show the signs of abuse.
Thanks
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dudemanbu
Apr 28, 2006, 5:53 PM
Post #39 of 43
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In reply to: Does that not leave metal on metal or have I misunderstood?
If by "metal on metal" you mean biner on the wire, then yes. But that happens any time that you clip a biner to a wire, which is every time you place a wire.
Jake understood. That's what we're after, and yeah, i do that one handed. it's not as hard as it sounds.
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jimdavis
Apr 28, 2006, 8:14 PM
Post #41 of 43
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In reply to: I'm still processing all this stuff about equalisation, the only thing that confuses me slightly about why we have not heard more in the UK. All my training has warned against shock loading so it seems a little strange to set up anchors like that.
Read that for a little more info about what does and doesn't cause "shock loading".
By the way, the cord used in that testing is high strength/ low stretch Sterling PowerCord (PC). That will yield higher "shock loads" than nylon should.
Cheers,
Jim
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krusher4
Apr 28, 2006, 8:38 PM
Post #42 of 43
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Registered: Nov 17, 2005
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they don't weight anything...I always carry them.
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duncan_s
Apr 30, 2006, 10:02 PM
Post #43 of 43
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Registered: Jun 21, 2004
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I was keeping an eye out for it this weekend, but equalising with my rope to each piece of gear and equalised on me with clove hitches. Only single pitch, so couldn't test it when belaying a leader, but when I got my second to fall of all my bits of gear were being loaded, which using some stretchy 8.1mm iceline instead of static help with this, as it is dynamic?
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