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curator
Nov 24, 2005, 10:11 PM
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Looking for a little help on a project I'm working on. I'm trying to compile a list of classic sport climbs. North America only. Kind of like the ultimate North American sport climber tick list. All grades. All areas. Don't restrain yourself....throw out 20 or 30 off the top of your head. You don't have to have climbed them. I'll start:
Chain reaction
bullet the blue sky
quinsana plus
etc......
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squid
Nov 25, 2005, 6:31 PM
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Orange Crush.......AR
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nuts_r_us
Nov 25, 2005, 7:09 PM
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**Donning flame-proof suit**
Prince of Darkness, Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rocks, Vegas
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fleshwater
Nov 25, 2005, 7:44 PM
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Definitly agree with Orange Crush in Horseshoe Canyon Ranch Arkansas, and about 1/4 mile away hit Crimp Scampi.
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moeman
Nov 25, 2005, 10:07 PM
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In reply to: bullet the blue sky
Good choice. Thats one of the prettiest aretes I've ever seen. Some of the nearby routes might qualify as well- Not My Cross to Bear, tanks for the Huecos, etc. Hell, you should probably add the rest of penitente canyon to that list too.
On another note, this thread would be a lot better if we added pictures
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=31206
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crackmd
Nov 25, 2005, 10:58 PM
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In my mind, in order to be considered a "classic", there must be some issue at the finish. No matter how hard and cool a climb is to start, if you can cruise to the finish it detracts from the "classicness". Issues at the finish could potentially include a killer technical crux, bizarre funkiness, or a full on enduro fest wanting to spit you off jugs. Having to make decisions while physically, mentally and emotionally pumped is what this sport is all about and is not exclusive to sport climbing (i.e. hard desert splitters). Some climbs that epitomize this are IMHO:
Neandrathal Dudes (11d) at Donner Summit-incredible funk at finish
Running Man (11) at Red Rocks-how many have pitched off 5.9 finish
The Gift (12c) at Red Rocks-such a cool technical crux up high
Bare Metal Teen (12a) at Red River Gorge-This rating pisses me off!
Satanic Mechanic (12b) at Jtree-amazing sport route at Jtree, can't get any better!
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outsideguyzak
Nov 25, 2005, 11:20 PM
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RoShamPo -red river gorge 11d/12a
Bare Metal Teen -red river gorge 12a
Rage -Obed 12c
Barbwire and Lingerie -Obed 12b/c
Best Seats in the House -Obed 9+
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outsideguyzak
Nov 25, 2005, 11:24 PM
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RoShamPo -red river gorge 11d/12a
Bare Metal Teen -red river gorge 12a
Rage -Obed 12c
Barbwire and Lingerie -Obed 12b/c
Best Seats in the House -Obed 9+
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austinclmbr
Nov 25, 2005, 11:26 PM
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Super cruiser, 13 something, reimers ranch
space boyz, (1st or all pitches)Potrero chico
Tunnel vision,12 something, Barton creek, Austin
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jred
Nov 25, 2005, 11:38 PM
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--Wicked Gravity, Lake Louise, Alberta,Can. -- Black Water, Squamish, BC, Can. --Bottom Feeder, Whistler, BC, Can.--Night train, Pemberton,BC, Can. There are many more of course but here are a few good ones in western Canada.
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potreroed
Nov 26, 2005, 12:12 AM
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Of the 500 routes in the Potrero Chico at least 100 of them should be on the list. I'll just name a few: Aguja Celo Rey, Don Quixote, Stroking the Bishop, Two Pumped Chump, Pancho Villa Rides Again, Yankee Clipper, Gringo Disco, Dead Man Walking, Surfer Rosa, Pangea, Mothership Connection, Diablo's Path etc, etc.
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curator
Nov 26, 2005, 2:07 AM
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Thanks for the help folks, keep it coming, and the pictures are great. Is that route really in Wisconsin? Take off the flame proof suit Mr. Nuts, it's a rare occasion that I get worked up. My apologies.
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dietmoxie_15
Nov 26, 2005, 2:50 AM
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Surf Safari
The Fly, Rumney
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chossmonkey
Nov 26, 2005, 3:10 AM
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In reply to: Is that route really in Wisconsin?
Damn straight. 8^)
There is a fair amount of climbing in WI, and some really good routes. Just not enough of either to make high on anyones road trip list. Definitely worth a stop on the drive through.
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potreroed
Nov 30, 2005, 12:48 AM
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I can vouch for that as well. Wisconsin has fabulous climbing and a great climbing scene. It's the long cold winters that drove me South!!!
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nuts_r_us
Nov 30, 2005, 5:42 PM
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In reply to: Is that route really in Wisconsin? Take off the flame proof suit Mr. Nuts, it's a rare occasion that I get worked up. My apologies.
Ha ha! I didn't expect a flame from you, but many others on this site poopoo the route as lame. I thought it was a pretty cool way to spend a 1/2 day.
Oh and yeah, Whiskey a Go Go is rad. Not Wisconsin's hardest any more, since I heard Andy Raether sent a project at Willow he was calling a 5.14 (anybody know details?), but still damn damn damn hard, and super cool-looking. Nothing I would ever be able to claw my way up, anyway.
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gneiss
Nov 30, 2005, 5:56 PM
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thirsting skull, rrg
mirage, ceuse
rico suave, nrg
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redpoint73
Nov 30, 2005, 6:08 PM
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Last I checked, Ceuse is not in North America.
But that would be sweet if it was.
My vote is for Treasure of Sierra Madre at Potrero. Seven pitches of 5.10, pulling on positive pockets and jugs, with glorious views of the canyon. Not too much loose rock, either.
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wes_allen
Nov 30, 2005, 6:51 PM
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wild gift, rrg
Devil wears spurs, wild iris
Child of the light (or something like that?), Owens river gorge
Strike a Scowl, NRG
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chossmonkey
Nov 30, 2005, 6:56 PM
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In reply to: Not Wisconsin's hardest any more, ..
I don't think Whiskey was ever WI's hardest, though it may have been for a very brief time. It originally started off the top of a big block with a traverse in and was rated 12c. It was done mixed style in the late 80's or early 90's. It was retroed by the F.A. in the mid 90's adding the first two bolts worth of climbing and upping the grade. There were a handful of other routes around the state that were established at about the same time of the retro that were of approximately the same grade.
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raymondjeffrey
Nov 30, 2005, 11:29 PM
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'Totem Pole' 5.10d Queen Creek Canyon
That 5.6 that gets done in the nude in the 'Gunks'; I can't remember the name.
'Pocket Puzzle' 5.10a Queen Creek Canyon
'Dream of Wild Turkeys' 5.10a Red Rock Canyon
'Cool Breeze' 5.4 Queen Creek Canyon
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jbeta
Nov 30, 2005, 11:37 PM
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Whiskey was never Wisconsin's hardest, but it is definately Wisconsin's BEST.
Whiskey a Go Go, WI
Chain Reaction, Smith
Predator, Rumney
Beat Junkie, Rumney
The Eighth Day, Rifle (I havent climbed this one, but it looks amazing).
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bluesky
Dec 1, 2005, 12:15 AM
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Suggestions:
Strategic Defense - City of Rocks ID
Latest Rage - Smith
Screaming Yellow Zonkers - Smith
Psychatomic - Monastery CO
Happiness in Slavery - Tensleep WY
The Example - Shelf
Suburbia - Shelf
Killer - Sinks
Addiction - Sinks
Wind and Rattlesnakes - Iris
Tabula Rasa - Monastery
Red Neck Hero - Buttonrock Res. CO
Aborigine / Technorigine - Little Si WA
Back to the Future - Shelf
Vasodilator - Boulder Canyon
I Just Do Eyes - Tensleep WY
Perhaps?:
To Bolt or Not to Be - Smith
Darkness at Noon - Smith
Just Do it - Smith
Your Mother - Eldo
Apocalypse 95 - Rifle
Living in Fear - Rifle
The Anti-Phil - Rifle
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