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aimeerose
Feb 7, 2006, 7:34 PM
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In reply to: If you can't send V5 after 6 months of climbing, you should really concider another sport. I hear lawn bowlings pretty fun.
What a bitchy thing to say!!!!!
I think I climbed V3 after about 2 years of climbing cause I didn't start bouldering until then. I think it just depends on what you focus on. If you boulder all the time, then you'll probably start bouldering harder sooner. Also, you may want to consider weight training in addition to bouldering just to work on getting stronger in general (especially abs, lock off strength, etc).
BTW, it takes 6-8 weeks to build muscle, so keep that in mind.
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geobum
Mar 30, 2006, 8:41 AM
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if you can find fun problems, it doesn't matter the grade. the more fun you have, the better you'll climb, and the stronger you'll get.
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boulderslikeagirl
Mar 30, 2006, 11:31 AM
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In reply to: About 2 months before sending my first V2. Thread title should be "How long were you stuck on V0 or V1".
That's what I was going to say! (English major here)
My husband and I have been climbing for almost a year and I, like a lot of people in my gym, go in and do some VOs and V1s for warm up and then he and I work on figuring out the technique of some V3s and 4s. (Of course, that doesn't mean we always complete them. I've done 2 V3s ever and they seemed easier than some V2s) However, it may depend on your gym becase a friend of ours who has been climbing longer went to Seattle and climbed stuff they rated 2 or 3 steps higher and it was easy. So our V2s might be as hard as V3+, etc...
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calfcramp
Mar 30, 2006, 12:58 PM
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Frig! I just tried bouldering for the first time at the gym last night and it was not what I would call a success. My partner flaked on me so I figured I'd give it a shot. Didn't know which problems were easy or hard so I asked. I tried one of the 'easy' ones and couldn't pass the second move.
I then found one that looked less steep and easier and made it to the second to last move on my second attempt. Problem is, I burned out so fast that I could only attempt it 2 more times. I never made it to the top.
I usually pull off at least 5 climbs of about 5.7 to 5.9 at the gym without too much trouble. Makes for a fun couple hours. I burned out bouldering in about a half hour and I can barely type today my forearms are so racked!
I am in poor, poor shape.
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dklco
Mar 30, 2006, 1:11 PM
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The grades at the gym i often got to are really skewed according to them I boulder V4 to V6 which im pretty sure cant be right, unless my amazingness is somehow hidden from me. when i boulder out side i just go up wjat ever looks the most fun so yeah i have no idea...
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ninja_climber
Mar 30, 2006, 1:57 PM
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Like a week or two...I was in really good shape because of constant working out and martial arts.
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bill413
Mar 30, 2006, 3:16 PM
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Calfcramp - this is natural. Bouldering is different than "normal" climbing because it tends to be very intense. You probably did not give yourself enough recovery time between problems. And you were probably using your back and abs more than usual.
Give it a chance, listen to your body, enjoy!
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12inchtick
Mar 30, 2006, 3:54 PM
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In response to a post which said climbing is 1% strength, I was just wondering how much do other people think technique accounts for climbing ability.
All I hear is you need to work on technique (not me personally, but in general). But I believe once you have basic technique strength training will have you climbing harder than just focusing on technique (although focusing on technique will also increase your strength).
I'd say for complete beginners - technique 80%, strength 20% but for advanced climbers technique 20%, strength 80%. What do others think?
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monicastrasen
Mar 30, 2006, 4:31 PM
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In my "real" job (I only wish I could be one of those enviable people that get to climb for a living!) I'm a fitness trainer. If you look at climbers who operate at a very high level like Fred Nicole and Chris Sharma, yes, they are amazingly strong, but more importantly, they know exactly when and where to apply that strength. Fred Nicole is in his mid-30s and is climbing V16 and doesn't appear to be slowing down. I'd say it's more like 60% strength and 40% technique. If you wanted to break it down even further, what we're calling "strength" here is really a blend of strength, power, and flexibility (in bouldering). I'd give power 25%, strength 20%, flexibility 15% of that 60%.
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boulderman
Mar 30, 2006, 4:39 PM
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In reply to: If you can't send V5 after 6 months of climbing, you should really concider another sport. I hear lawn bowlings pretty fun.
Right on! If you are ever hoping to climb "V-super hard" someday, that's the truth... Shit I've seen a kid climb V10 with in a year or so.....
I have never heard such a huge group of giant pussies! If you live in Utah, you should be climbing outside regardless of winter. If you are a true boulderer, cold temps are your friend. Take a fricking broom out and brush the snow off, pansy ass.
Don't listen to these hippaaays that talk about "meaningless" grades. If a climber says this, either they suck or they're old.... Grades are a very important part of our sport. Why the hell do you think they come up in every conversation? They are interesting and complex. They mean everything and nothing. They are controversial and have destroyed reputations and careers. They create competition and are sometimes the sole reason for returning to an old project. The inspire confidence and can create frustration and anger to the point of launching a water bottle or even tears.
Realisticly, (if you an average human of average weight, in your mid to late 20's) give yourself a month for V0, a couple months for V1-V2, a few more for V3-4, and then a year for every numbered grade from V5-V8/9.
Even V10+ climbers fall off V5's sometimes
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mikej
Mar 30, 2006, 8:41 PM
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In reply to: If you are a true boulderer, cold temps are your friend
Unless you're twisted like myself and enjoy slopers at 90+ degrees.
In reply to: Don't listen to these hippaaays that talk about "meaningless" grades. If a climber says this, either they suck or they're old....
I mean no offense, but grade chasing only ends up making you frustrated. Look at Sharma. He refuses to grade most of his climbs. Does he suck, or is he old? I guess that makes me and "old guy" and there's lots of "old guys" out there that will disagree with you.
P.s. I'm no hippy either.
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geobum
Mar 31, 2006, 6:34 AM
Post #62 of 97
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In reply to: Don't listen to these hippaaays that talk about "meaningless" grades. If a climber says this, either they suck or they're old.... Grades are a very important part of our sport. Why the hell do you think they come up in every conversation? They are interesting and complex. They mean everything and nothing. They are controversial and have destroyed reputations and careers. They create competition and are sometimes the sole reason for returning to an old project. The inspire confidence and can create frustration and anger to the point of launching a water bottle or even tears.
People climb for different reasons. Some chase grades, some just like to move on rock, and others both. It's probable that any world famous climber paid close attention to grades at one point. I think that people such as Chris Sharma who refuse to grade routes now have come to understand the true essence of climbing, and how worrying about grades in a way desanctifies the climb.
I think that if a vE climber feels that grades are unimportant, that's a really cool thing. I'm not sure why you need to assume they suck or they're old. You criticize others for what I believe to be a healthier view of climbing.
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boulderman
Apr 3, 2006, 4:21 PM
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I criticize others because I enjoy mocking and making sarcastic and stereotypical comments about things such as repetitive arguments about the importance of grades. There were many jokes and many serious comments in my post. All with an element of truth?.....
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musicman1586
Apr 3, 2006, 5:51 PM
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One thing that I would say is that if you are climbing in a gym, don't focus on grades, especially bouldering grades. Truth of the matter is most beginner climbers shouldn't be able to make it up even a V0. If you look at most grade comparison charts, V0 is usually compared to 5.9-5.10, this site's climbing guide rates V0 at 5.10d http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/rankingguide.php which is no beginner's grade. V1 is compared to a 5.11a give or take, and that is very much out of the range of beginner's, as you've heard people say already it took them years to climb 5.11. The problem with gyms though is that many gyms don't necessarily cater their problems to climbers, they cater it to the people that come in for parties or the people who bring their young kids in and what not, so they tip the scales on the ratings, because they have to have stuff that people can get up, so rarely will you find a gym that's honestly rated correctly. I've lead "hard" 5.11's and bouldered v4's in some gyms and then in others been completely shut down by V2's and 5.10b's.
Even outside grading isn't consistent, not even in the same city. In Austin there's a number of good climbing places, and even between these you will find differences between a 5.10 at one spot and a 5.10 at another.
The bottom line is that grading isn't ever wholly accurate, but even more so at gyms, so don't judge your climbing off indoor grades, you might be right, but you might be in for a big shock when you get outside finally and try to jump on problems of similar grades.
Wow, that turned out to be a long post, hope the info gives you some good insight and what not, I'll go take my big bag of hot air out to the crag now. :lol:
Edit: btw, I know your not focusing on grades, I know your just wondering how people progress as climbers and what not, but I still think it's worthwhile to say because progress has a huge "it depends" tacked on to it.
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collegekid
Apr 21, 2006, 5:51 AM
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For me, it was as simple as access to a climbing gym and going regularly, along with cross training and being very careful to avoid injury.
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geobum
Apr 21, 2006, 7:15 AM
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In reply to: For me, it was as simple as access to a climbing gym and going regularly, along with cross training and being very careful to avoid injury.
that's a good point. my local gym is too expensive to climb regularly and michigan doesn't offer much for outdoor climbing. hanging on door trim and working the pull-up bar is the only way to stay in shape between trips to the gym.
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vanclimber
Apr 21, 2006, 12:38 PM
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Go across the lake to Niagara Glen
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alpinerockfiend
Apr 21, 2006, 3:14 PM
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I hope someone has already said this (I didn't read all 5 pages!), but if you want to climb harder, then do it! The great thing about bouldering is that you have easy access to routes that are out of your range. You don't have to leave any bail gear if it's out of your league! Hop on a V4 or V5 that looks inviting to you and start working the moves out. You'll get it eventually, then the next will come more easily, etc...
Be sure to continue with the easier grades as well to build up a good confidence/experience base. But really, the only way to progress is by getting out of your comfort zone.
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refusedpartyprogram
Apr 21, 2006, 3:31 PM
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ive been climbing almost 2 months about 3 or 4 times a week and i just started comfortably crawling up v2s. my friend that got me into it climbs about v5 so he has helped a lot with teaching me technique.
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sick_climba
Apr 22, 2006, 5:39 AM
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In reply to: I hope someone has already said this (I didn't read all 5 pages!), but if you want to climb harder, then do it! The great thing about bouldering is that you have easy access to routes that are out of your range. You don't have to leave any bail gear if it's out of your league! Hop on a V4 or V5 that looks inviting to you and start working the moves out. You'll get it eventually, then the next will come more easily, etc... Be sure to continue with the easier grades as well to build up a good confidence/experience base. But really, the only way to progress is by getting out of your comfort zone. |
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superbum
Apr 22, 2006, 5:53 AM
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I've been climbing for over four years now, but I only started drinking V8 recently....
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jt512
Apr 22, 2006, 5:07 PM
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In reply to: Well I'm thinking I'm putting my all into it. I climb at least 2 hours a day for the past 2 weeks (just started 2 weeks ago), except for a couple days of neccassary rest.
Stuck at V1 for 2 weeks. Sounds rough.
Jay
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jt512
Apr 22, 2006, 5:13 PM
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In reply to: I think that people such as Chris Sharma who refuse to grade routes now have come to understand the true essence of climbing, and how worrying about grades in a way desanctifies the climb.
Now, if we could only desanctify that sentence.
Jay
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dirtineye
Apr 22, 2006, 10:24 PM
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I have not read all the pages, but I did accidentally glue myself to a rock once. I was stuck on that rock for a long time. But, I don't remember the grade, does it still count?
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adrenaline_smack
Apr 23, 2006, 12:27 AM
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In reply to: that's a good point. my local gym is too expensive to climb regularly and michigan doesn't offer much for outdoor climbing. hanging on door trim and working the pull-up bar is the only way to stay in shape between trips to the gym. |
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