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schnoz
Feb 17, 2006, 1:22 PM
Post #26 of 100
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In reply to: Like said, depends on the placemetns around your local rock. I personally am in absoult LOVE with my tri-cams. Their the best of both worlds.
Truer words have never been spoken.
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reg
Feb 17, 2006, 2:10 PM
Post #27 of 100
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up_for_a_good_time said " really like passive gear, especially hexes. not true! - hexes are mainly active protection but may be used in the passive mode as shown here. i have a set but left them home last climb. i like tri's and - cams are the way to go.
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reg
Feb 17, 2006, 2:17 PM
Post #28 of 100
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In reply to: In reply to: that'll take a cam nicely, too, i'm sure. as well as 4 stacked #13 nuts. This is true, but there's something so satisfying about sinking a bomber passive piece. I suck at placing passive gear (as I'm sure alot of people do) because I rather just plug a cam. I think we all should learn better nutcraft..use more passive gear..it's lighter and cheaper. And who the hell carries 4 #13 nuts?! :lol:
with all due respect - i don't think that's such a solid placement. it's good for straight down but any upward and it's gone. now if it were in oppsition with another piece below then ya got something.
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asendr
Feb 17, 2006, 2:30 PM
Post #29 of 100
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What is the sound of noobies approaching?
Could that be the wonderful sound of gumby bells?
I only use hexes at indian creek. 8^)
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robbovius
Feb 17, 2006, 2:46 PM
Post #31 of 100
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I have some of everything on my rack, nuts, cams, tricams, & hexes, sometimes something of each gets used, sometimes not. the argumant abotu whether hexes are worthwhile will go on forever. some people like 'em, some don't, some are real snobs about it, on either side of the argument.
Every piece of gear has it's use. and what you use doesn't matter so much as whther or not whatever you DO use keeps your ass from cratering. ;-)
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grinspoon
Feb 17, 2006, 2:59 PM
Post #32 of 100
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reg wrote:In reply to: with all due respect - i don't think that's such a solid placement. it's good for straight down but any upward and it's gone. now if it were in oppsition with another piece below then ya got something.
It's hard to tell from the picture, but the climb is slightly less than vertical and the left constriction angles down into the crack..set with a tug..it'll hold an outward pull.
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dirtineye
Feb 17, 2006, 4:14 PM
Post #33 of 100
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Will this hex 'issue' continue to come up evner few months til the end of time?
Rock Centrics, dyneema, 6-9, they do indeed pick up where nuts leave off, they are as good or better than a cam in many instances, and if you climb in rock with highly irregular cracks n horozontals, tricams and hexes are your friends, while your cams might as well be on the ground.
I just would not go with small hexes, cause nuts and little tricams rule in those sizes, and I wish WC made one or two larger than the # 9.
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joeho
Feb 17, 2006, 5:42 PM
Post #34 of 100
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MORE COWBELL
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altelis
Feb 17, 2006, 6:14 PM
Post #35 of 100
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In reply to: heiko: And regarding strength, the larger BD hexes are weaker than the Camalots (10kn vs 14kn)
actually, i view this as a possible positive of hexes. we all know that passive gear excerts a lot less force on the rock when weighted...IF (and thats a very big IF) i have a hex and a cam that'll fit the same placement and i'm a little iffy about rock strength i feel a *little* better with the hex placed as it will exert a lesser force against the possibly weaker rock
and generally speaking, like most extremely general questions on this site, IT DEPENDS
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robbovius
Feb 17, 2006, 6:22 PM
Post #36 of 100
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In reply to: Will this hex 'issue' continue to come up evner few months til the end of time?
I think it's in rotation with shoe and grigri threads, isn't it? ;-)
In reply to: I just would not go with small hexes, cause nuts and little tricams rule in those sizes, and I wish WC made one or two larger than the # 9.
if I can offer a defering opinion...
just for curiosity sake, I bought two of the smallext BD wired hexes, and have subsequently used them succesfully in placements where I needed and equivalent size nut, but had already used up that nut. set properly, they are very stable and secure.
in one placement I was particlularly happy with (protecting a short overhung traverse), I have a #4 WC wired rock opposed by a #1 BD wired hexcentric, in a constriction too small for the remaining pink tricam (set passive) left on my rack. the hex is on right side in the pic. on that side, the constriction flared more shallowly than would have been good for a #4 nut, and the point of contact was too far back on the out5er curve of the #5 I tried. the small hex fit perfectly, cammed just right.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=69609
I've also used that #1 hexcentric as part of a TR anchor at another local climbing spot in a similar constriction.
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caughtinside
Feb 17, 2006, 6:27 PM
Post #37 of 100
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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Elvislegs can see into the future!
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hosh
Feb 17, 2006, 7:02 PM
Post #38 of 100
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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To the OP, Just wait a while on hexes. I really like hexes, but find that I don't find many opportunities to place them. I'd recomend that if you find that you are often saying, "Man, I wish I had a hex right now!" then you should probablly get a set. But if Cams and nuts are treating you well, then roll with it. Also, regarding the Tri-cam comments, it would seem that tri-cams are like Kim-Chee. You either hate it or you love it. I personally love tri-cams. They're super versatile and I often find interesting places to stick them. But then again, sometimes, they just sit on the rack and don't see any action. It's really your call, you know? Personally, I like hexes and tri-cams. But you ahve to do your own thing, you know?
hosh.
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forkliftdaddy
Feb 17, 2006, 7:10 PM
Post #39 of 100
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What is this? A post with reasonable advice? :o Dangit, hosh, we gotta buy, buy, buy! Gotta support the economy and feed those starving outdoor companies.
There's nothing wrong with waiting. I think borrowing some hexes to try them out might be good advice, also. And that way, if you get embarrassed at the crag -- "What's that sound?" -- you can claim the hexes are not yours. :wink:
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avalon420
Feb 19, 2006, 5:05 AM
Post #40 of 100
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I love BD hexes, all sizes, 1-11,and have doubles on the 4-9. Though I must admit that I mostly carry and place the the larger sizes, and the #11makes a great "hammer" to tap those tied off forged friends in to horizontals to protect a traverse. But as all intelligent RC.comers have said It Dependsso borrow some or buy a few that you most likely would use and try them.
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superbum
Feb 19, 2006, 6:51 AM
Post #41 of 100
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In reply to: noisy, slow, relics. save your money for more cams. And now for a bunch of hex users piling on about how 'you can place them wehre nothing else can go', and 'they make a fun noise', and on and on and on...
That's just 'cause you climb on splitter basalt Sean! What about us alpine Granite climbers huh?
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curtis_g
Feb 19, 2006, 7:53 AM
Post #42 of 100
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Registered: Nov 21, 2005
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In reply to: What is the sound of noobies approaching? Could that be the wonderful sound of gumby bells? I only use hexes at indian creek. 8^)
what're you, like, five?
passive pro was the original
it was the roots
noobs are the ones that plug the cam for every
placement because their daddy's trust funds
afford them the allowance to buy two sets
and have a full rack after they've been climbing
for a month.
p.s. i love hexes and they're really nice for the type of
rock i climb...slick quartzite with a little soft sandstone
and those irregular crystals that the curved hexes
deal with ever so nicely. yea, I'm at Devil's Lake.
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heiko
Feb 19, 2006, 4:28 PM
Post #43 of 100
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In reply to: In reply to: heiko: And regarding strength, the larger BD hexes are weaker than the Camalots (10kn vs 14kn) actually, i view this as a possible positive of hexes. we all know that passive gear excerts a lot less force on the rock when weighted... IF (and thats a very big IF) i have a hex and a cam that'll fit the same placement and i'm a little iffy about rock strength i feel a *little* better with the hex placed as it will exert a lesser force against the possibly weaker rock
You are correlating the maximum force a piece of gear can take before it breaks with the force it excerts on the rock it is placed in when weighted...
I must admit I'm a little confused about that. What you want to say is that it's better to place a piece of gear that will break before the rock does? Why not only use 2kN micronuts then?
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tradrenn
Feb 19, 2006, 6:40 PM
Post #44 of 100
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
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To Hex or Not to Hex.
It is only the matter of your personal preference.
I used to have a set of BD Hexes in 2003.
A year later I reduced my set to #7 - #11
Smaller hexes I wasn't using that much and I found them to be a bit of pain to place so now I have that area covered with different gear that I find to be more "user friendly".
I still use them in Ontario, but leave them in my pack when I go to Gunks.
I would second the advise of trying someone else hexes before buying them. If you never used Hexes before, try them on the ground and then on lead.
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napoleon_in_rags
Feb 19, 2006, 6:46 PM
Post #45 of 100
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In reply to: noobs are the ones that plug the cam for every placement because their daddy's trust funds afford them the allowance to buy two sets and have a full rack after they've been climbing for a month.
When I was starting to lead three years ago, I couldn't afford cams. I had two sets of nuts, one set of BD Hexes, and some tricams. All of it bought used. That's how you learn how to place gear and how to lead. I have seen some leaders who never got comfortable with passive do long runouts to the next crack wide enough for a cam and miss some bomber nut placements.
To be a good climber, you must learn to place all gear, not just what is easiest and quickest. To climb is to not to take the easiest way to the top.
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scuclimber
Feb 19, 2006, 9:14 PM
Post #46 of 100
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Registered: Jun 30, 2003
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In reply to: noobs are the ones that plug the cam for every placement because their daddy's trust funds afford them the allowance to buy two sets and have a full rack after they've been climbing for a month.
T0.
Colin
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curtis_g
Feb 19, 2006, 9:22 PM
Post #47 of 100
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Registered: Nov 21, 2005
Posts: 594
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In reply to: In reply to: noobs are the ones that plug the cam for every placement because their daddy's trust funds afford them the allowance to buy two sets and have a full rack after they've been climbing for a month. T0. Colin
I guess this make me a forum n00b...
but is that a compliment or an insult?
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roboclimber
Feb 19, 2006, 10:39 PM
Post #48 of 100
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Registered: Jun 17, 2004
Posts: 138
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If you had gotten a T3 that would have been a compliment; T0 is the lowest of trolls.
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nudge_nudge
Feb 19, 2006, 10:49 PM
Post #49 of 100
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Registered: Dec 27, 2005
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In reply to: noobs are the ones that plug the cam for every placement because their daddy's trust funds afford them the allowance to buy two sets and have a full rack after they've been climbing for a month. p.s. i love hexes and they're really nice for the type of rock i climb...slick quartzite with a little soft sandstone and those irregular crystals that the curved hexes deal with ever so nicely. yea, I'm at Devil's Lake.
So did you find hexes in the last 6 days? http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ewtopic.php?t=106901
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jimfix
Feb 19, 2006, 11:20 PM
Post #50 of 100
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In reply to: In reply to: they're significantly lighter than large cams You can read this very often, but take for example BD wired Hexentrics and BD C4 cams (data from BD website): A #11 hex (width 89mm, "thickness" 65mm, so I simplify its "range" to 65-89mm which of course is not exactly true) weighs 206 grams. A #3 C4 Camalot (range 51-88mm) weighs...... 201 grams! (A only slightly smaller DMM 4CU #3.5 is even only around 160 grams...) So I'd say that the weight aspect is simply not true anymore, at least when compared to modern cams. And regarding strength, the larger BD hexes are weaker than the Camalots (10kn vs 14kn). H.
If you place a #3 camalot in a 88mm crack your not likely to get much in the way of protection (cams should be used ~40% retracted). If you plug it into a 51mm crack, let me know were and I'll bring my pinch bar to get it out.
Secondly, BD hexes are obsolete. Rockcentrics or metolius curves.
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