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What is the ultimate unclimbed face in N. America?
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marcel


Aug 23, 2002, 10:39 PM
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What is the ultimate unclimbed face in N. America?
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What do you think is the ultimate unclimbed face in North America, and most likely to be the last unclimbed face. I’m voting for the 6000’ north face of the Devil’s Thumb.


stevematthys


Aug 23, 2002, 11:10 PM
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there is absolutely tons to stuff in colorado waiting to be climbed.


marcel


Aug 23, 2002, 11:17 PM
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Hey Steve,
What would you say the BIG unclimbed face in Colorado is? And why has it not been climbed?


bigwalling


Aug 23, 2002, 11:49 PM
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Thanks marcel now I know what I want to do after I graduate. I can't beleive that thing is unclimbed.


atg200


Aug 27, 2002, 3:22 PM
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There is not a big unclimbed face in Colorado. There are plenty of obscure and kinda chossy routes left to do in the mountains, some killer climbing at secret areas, and plenty of room for more squeeze jobs all over the front range.

Its got to be Alaska. Probably something on Kichatna Spire.


marcel


Aug 27, 2002, 3:43 PM
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Kichatna Spire is most impressive, but I'll stick with the North Face of the Devil's Thumb. ( I keep editing trying to get a photo of the North Face to link.)

CLICK ON THE WAVE TO SEE THE IMAGE




[ This Message was edited by: marcel on 2002-08-27 13:11 ]

[ This Message was edited by: marcel on 2002-08-27 13:12 ]


brianthew


Aug 27, 2002, 4:19 PM
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I'd agree to the north face on Devil's Thumb, but as atg200 said Kichatna packs a wallop; it has an unclimbed south face. But I say the Devil's Thumb face is smoother and not nearly as broken, and is alot higher that the Kichatna S face.



jer


Aug 27, 2002, 4:41 PM
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WHERE IS DEVILS THUMB?
ALASKA AS WELL?


marcel


Aug 27, 2002, 7:55 PM
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Yes the Devil's Thumb is located near Petersburg, Alaska, in southeast Alaska, or the panhandle.


woodse


Aug 27, 2002, 8:11 PM
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Here's a link:

http://www.mistyfjordsair.com/images/devilsthumb.jpg

Impressive indeed.....

woodsE


Partner jammer


Aug 27, 2002, 8:36 PM
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That's cccccccooolllddd!


marcel


Aug 27, 2002, 8:45 PM
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woodse cool link. That's the west face only about half as high as the north face.



Partner polarwid


Aug 27, 2002, 9:18 PM
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The North Face is the one in the shadow on the other side of the "Cat's Ears".


brianthew


Aug 27, 2002, 10:02 PM
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If any of you want more info on the Devil's Thumb, I suggest the essay "The Devil's Thumb" by Jon Krakaur (pre-Into Thin Air). It's about his solo of the Thumb, although not by its north face (which he did attempt, but was defeated). It's in his anthology "Eiger Dreams" and a book called "Epic."


bradhill


Aug 27, 2002, 10:54 PM
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I doubt the north face of Mt. Huntington will ever be climbed. It's wicked. 6000' of nearly vertical, fluted, gargoyled snow with hanging glaciers and seracs. Sick sick sick.


Partner polarwid


Aug 27, 2002, 11:08 PM
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I am taking a little vote here...

Should I move this thread to ALPINE and ICE, or leave it here in TRAD. Seems to me that most of these walls are VERY alpine...


marcel


Aug 27, 2002, 11:58 PM
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polarwid you are right it should more than likely be in Alpine and Ice. Sorry, I put it in the wrong place.


Partner polarwid


Aug 28, 2002, 12:04 AM
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NO PROBLEM...
Show me moving it, I don't get to do much moderating in the TRAD or A&I forums cause most of us are so SMART and WELL-BEHAVED, at least in the forums we are!

You guys should come up to Eagle River and check out the North Face of Polar Bear Peak, only about 5000 feet of unconsolidated schist and other typical Chugach hazards!!!


marcel


Aug 28, 2002, 3:14 PM
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polarwid,
Thanks but no thanks on 5000 feet of unconsolidated schist, but I would love to do some stuff up in your way. Each time I'm in the Anchorage area I drool over the long ridges in the Chugach Mnts. Looks like great snowshoing country on top!
Hope more of you climbers out there give us more ideas on the ultimate unclimbed face in N. America!


hacksaw


Jul 9, 2004, 4:58 PM
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North Face of Mount Huntington was climbed.... [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I doubt the north face of Mt. Huntington will ever be climbed. It's wicked. 6000' of nearly vertical, fluted, gargoyled snow with hanging glaciers and seracs. Sick sick sick.

Actualy, the North face of Mount Huntington was climbed in 1978, by Simon McCartney and Jack Roberts. Their line is to the right of your photo. Check it out in the 1979 AAJ Page 70-80. I looked at their route from across the glaciar on P11,300. It looks like a very hard route with lots of objective danger... :shock: As far as I know its the only route on the true North face of Mount Huntington.
Cheers,
Halsted


hacksaw


Jul 9, 2004, 9:40 PM
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Corection [In reply to]
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OOPS! Make that, that their line is to the LEFT, of the photo displayed here. :oops:


scottcody


Jul 9, 2004, 10:09 PM
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Re: Corection [In reply to]
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Would you guys consider Baffin Island a part of North America?

I'm pretty sure that place hasn't been climbed out yet


Partner coldclimb


Jul 9, 2004, 10:20 PM
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I'm sure there's hundreds of peaks out there with huge faces that haven't been climbed. We can't have done EVERYTHING yet. As far as biggest unclimbed though, I have no clue, but the Devil's Thumb is probably a good bet. ;)

Edit: wow, this thread is old. :lol:


the_antoon


Jul 9, 2004, 10:34 PM
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Holy crap...this thread is reeeeaaaalllllly old!!!

Anyway, whoever dug it up, good job.

And without a doubt...Devil's Thumb.


scotto


Jul 9, 2004, 10:55 PM
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Mt. Rushmore - home of the NOSE


hacksaw


Jul 9, 2004, 10:58 PM
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Baffin Island........... [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Would you guys consider Baffin Island a part of North America?

I'm pretty sure that place hasn't been climbed out yet

I consider it very much part of North America. I have been lucky enough to go skiing on Baffin Island once. We flew around a lot of the Cumberland peninsula and Mount Asgard area. I can tell you that Baffin Island has a long ways to go from being "climbed out." :wink:

Cheers,
Halsted


scottcody


Jul 12, 2004, 3:49 PM
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Re: Baffin Island........... [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I can tell you that Baffin Island has a long ways to go from being "climbed out."
Yeah I know... My comment was 100% "tounge in cheek". :)

It is actually a ploy to try to get some people to post up some pics of the place and some of the faces that are yet to climbed there.

any takers????


scottcody


Jul 12, 2004, 3:52 PM
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In reply to:
Mt. Rushmore - home of the NOSE

nice... any ideas at what that would go at?


Partner pedro_burrito


Jul 12, 2004, 4:02 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Mt. Rushmore - home of the NOSE

nice... any ideas at what that would go at?

10 to 20 at Ft. Leavenworth.


cryder


Jul 14, 2004, 5:07 PM
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In reply to:
It is actually a ploy to try to get some people to post up some pics of the place and some of the faces that are yet to climbed there.

any takers????

Ok - I'll bite. I'll post a photo of my current project. Its not overwhelmingly huge, but it is big. And its in not on Baffin, but in my favorite range the Beartooths.

http://community.webshots.com/...9085821EfrLsh_ph.jpg

2,200 Vertical Feet. Tops out at just over 12,000 feet. And yes, unclimbed.


dingus


Jul 14, 2004, 5:23 PM
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A slightly different tack:

To me the ultimate unclimbed faces are those that are near enough and dear enough to be within the realm of possibility for this punter.

They exist, in my beloved Sierra and elsewhere, unclimbed faces for the common man, 1000 feet and up. One must merely seek them out.

6000 feet? Nope. Not south of the 48th parallel. But for me and my climbing, the biggest and baddest isn't the ultimate, the nearest and dearest is.

There are incredible adventures to be had, halfway round the world or just outside the back door. Decided years ago I could spend a month of tent sitting in lousy weather in some distant range like Patagonia, or get in 30 days of the best alpine granite in the most climber friendly range in the world and still see my family every day or so and not spend the life savings I don't have anyway.

If the Devil's Thumb is in your future, may I suggest you get after it before you have children?

Cheers
DMT


hacksaw


Jul 17, 2004, 7:04 PM
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Re: Baffin Island........... [In reply to]
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In reply to:
If the Devil's Thumb is in your future, may I suggest you get after it before you have children?

Or that you grow old enough to know, when to recognize that some climbs may only be "climbable" a few days per decade..... :shock:

Cheers,
Halsted


marcel


Jul 17, 2004, 9:46 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
If the Devil's Thumb is in your future, may I suggest you get after it before you have children?

Or that you grow old enough to know, when to recognize that some climbs may only be "climbable" a few days per decade..... :shock:

Cheers,
Halsted

Having looked up and down the north face of the Devil's Thumb from about mid point Halsted is right, more than likely there is only a few days in a decade when all conditions are right to climb this face.


mountainmadness


Jul 17, 2004, 10:15 PM
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wow [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I doubt the north face of Mt. Huntington will ever be climbed. It's wicked. 6000' of nearly vertical, fluted, gargoyled snow with hanging glaciers and seracs. Sick sick sick.




:shock: ohhhh man ::BOING:: ::Thud:: :mrgreen:


cgailey


Jul 17, 2004, 10:18 PM
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In reply to:
What do you think is the ultimate unclimbed face in North America, and most likely to be the last unclimbed face. I’m voting for the 6000’ north face of the Devil’s Thumb.

I second that vote. I think the poll should be faces that have yet to be climbed that have been attempted...there are countless ones in the AK range and throughout Alaska, and elsewhere, that will never be attempted.


topher


Jul 18, 2004, 12:57 AM
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lots left up north [In reply to]
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there are lots of unclimbed wall on banfin island, and up in alaska... belacola also hase some 5000 foot walls that have never seen human hands.


rockprodigy


Jul 19, 2004, 7:43 PM
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The E Face of Denali looks pretty gnarly.


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