|
fcorl
Oct 12, 2006, 3:23 PM
Post #26 of 30
(2425 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 10, 2003
Posts: 40
|
In reply to: You just made my point in that last sentence. I said V10 climber, not V10 route setter. There is a difference when a V10 climber is warming up on easy stuff, than when he is setting easy routes with someone else in mind. I'm not saying it takes a V10 climber to be a good route setter, but I am saying it takes more than a V2 climber. I just don't think someone topping out at the V2/3 level is a very experienced climber. I would say at be at least a consistent V5 boulderer.... I know a V2/3 climber could set something interesting here and there but not consistently.
|
|
|
|
|
fiend
Nov 24, 2006, 5:17 AM
Post #27 of 30
(603 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 25, 2001
Posts: 3669
|
I've known V12 climbers that set shite routes. Route setting is an art and few truly have the knack. A good setter has an artistic vision and knowledge of climbing movement that should allow them to set both below and above their redpoint level. The problem is that the farther you move from that ability the more of said knowledge and vision you need to create a decent route. It's not that a V10 climber/setter can't set a good V2, he might just think it's a V0. Someone who's only climbed up to V2/3 may be able to set a good route or two but will lack consistency in the quality of their routes as they set more of them.
(This post was edited by fiend on Nov 25, 2006, 7:57 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
minn8325
Dec 8, 2006, 10:48 PM
Post #28 of 30
(522 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 20, 2006
Posts: 33
|
It is actualy kind a funny at my gym it is the opposite they are played way down usualy a V1 is more like V2+, and people feel like complete ass hats when they have trouble with 5.9 only to realize they are actualy like 5.10+'s. So everyone who complains should be happy they are not in my shoes.........lol litteraly.........It is like one big low self esteem meeting people hangdoggin with these disgruntled looks on there faces and boulderer's laying all over the mats and then the new kid in town shows up and sees all of us strugling like mad on V2's gives us a smug look, pumps out and then goes "what is goin with my climbing toady. Then we laugh a little"
|
|
|
|
|
trav
Dec 9, 2006, 12:57 AM
Post #29 of 30
(504 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2006
Posts: 2
|
Same thing at my gym. We have setters who haven't climbed 5.10 in a year setting 9's. As to sandbagged routes a 5.11c that goes at 12b
|
|
|
|
|
calii22
Dec 13, 2006, 10:35 PM
Post #30 of 30
(482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 8, 2004
Posts: 45
|
I really wish my gym used the v system i like the v system. My gym is great and all but they dont really rate many problems. At the gym the one thing that i like to see at the end of winter is your prgress and i think the rateings give you an idea of that progress. its fun. yeah my say would be get a v3 boulder on that range problem and have him rate it and a v7 climber on a problem somewhere in that range and have him rate it. theres not to many people that are extremly good with rateing things that are climbing harder than there ablity or something like that ha .
|
|
|
|
|
|