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flamer
Nov 17, 2006, 10:26 PM
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Well the title says it all. I want to know what you climbed, what you did, where you went and anything else climbing lend you to this past year.
Here's my year in climbing.
In February:
Zion:
Lunar X IV 5.9 C2-, OS 13hrs
Cragging at Cerebrus
Iron Messiah III 5.10, OS
In April:
Joshua Tree:
I was Primairily there to party with a bunch of crazy arizona folks. I had a great time, met some new folks and did some climbing as well.
Bird on a wire 5.10, OS
Feltonean physics 5.8. OS
Overseer 5.9, OS
Lower right ski track 5.10b, OS
Overhang bypass 5.7, OS
Left ski track 5.11, 1 hang(damn it!!)
Bearded cabbage 5.10c, hung!
White lightning 5.7. OS
J-tree was a great time....
Red rocks:
My family lives in Vegas so I am fortunate to be able to spend lots of time climbing in Red rocks. I've also been fortunate to meet and climb with some very cool locals. It's nice to go somewhere and know you have good friends around.
Bourbon street 5.8 OS
Mountain Beast IV 5.11, OS
Edge of the Sun 5.10dR, OS
Spectrum III 5.11R-. OS
Took a 4 day trip to San deigo to go surfing!!Had some great waves!!
Unimpeachable Groping 5.10d, OS rope solo
Birdland 5.7. OS
Rock Warrior IV 5.10bR+, OS
Great Expectations III 5.9, OS
Burlesque 5.9, OS
To round out my spring in Red Rocks I made an attempt at what I consider to be THE link up in RR. It is...The Original route on the Rainbow wall, Levitation 29, and Epinephrine. All in under 24 hours.
My partner and I climbed the OG route in just over 4hrs. The known record, but it may have been done faster and certainly will be!
Then Lev 29 in 4 hrs...it got wicked hot and we were short on water so we slowed down a bit. We did these 2 routes Car to car in 15hrs and 10-15minutes. We still had plenty of time to do EPI! Unfortunately my partner, who is an extremely strong climber and a hell of a guy, had some serious foot problems. He had bad feet to start and they only got worse...so we had to bag Epi. We made a semi-hilarious attempt to find me a partner to finish. This involved calling everyone we knew. Driving through the campground and asking anyone who looked like a capable climber. Finally stopping at Desert rock sports and asking if they knew anyone...even offering to pay a guide!! You should have seen some of the looks we got when asking people to climb EPI At 7pm with the sun setting! Oh well next time.
Back to Colorado for the summer.
In Eldo:
XM 5.10cR, OS
Point break, 5.11 OS
Center route, 5.11 1 fall(damn it!!)
Metamorphsis 5.10aR-, OS
Kings X 5.10dR-, OS
Wide Country 5.11aR-, OS
Rain 5.10dR, OS
Northcutt start 5.10d. Redpoint(finally!)
Doub-Griffith 5.11cR-, 1 fall
Vertigo 5.11a, clean but did not lead the crux corner.
Naked edge 5.11, I'd wanted to OS this for a long time. But fell twice.
Lot's of other cragging....
In Boulder canyon:
The bygully 5.9+, OS
The Deep 5.11c OS
Earth voyage 5.12a, OS
Mount Evans The Black wall:
Road Warrior III+ 5.10d, hung on one pitch due to wet rock but lead the crux clean.
Black canyon:
Moveable stoned voyage IV 5.10+, OS
Journey Home IV 5.10c, OS
Leisure climb(sex comedy finish)III 5.10+R, OS
Escape artist(with harder variation to start)IV 5.11-, OS
I also made an attempt on the Diamond but was turned back without climbing anything due to poor conditions.
I did lot's of other cragging and even bumped my free solo level up a bit.
On my 30th birthday I freesoloed 32 pitchs- In BC The owl and East crack on the dome, Standard route on the 3rd Elephant Butt.
The 1st and 3rd flatirons.
In Eldo; Wind ridge, Reggae, and the Bastille crack. It was a very memorable day.
In Sept I went to Yosemite with very big plans, they were shut down early due to the return of carpal tunnel and tendonitis.
But I did climb:
Moratorium 5.11b had to hang following the crux to clean gear(stupid!)
Hot line 5.12a, hung! But replaced several bad bolts.
Stoners highway 5.10cR OS
WFLT 12hrs.
Then my wrists seriously crapped out and I had to bail!! Went to Ventura and surfed for a long weekend.
Then Back To vegas....
One Final route to really burn my wrist's off once and for all!!
Resolution Arete V 5.10 C1....OS 5hrs 48min. CTC 10hrs20min.
I did plenty of climbing (and other things!) in between this stuff but these are the things that really stick out.
Now I've taken the last couple of months off to let my wrists recover.
I feel like I had a really good year, Best part had to be all the cool people I met and climbed with along the way. We really do have a pretty cool tribe!!
So what did you do?
josh
(This post was edited by flamer on Nov 18, 2006, 12:12 AM)
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krusher4
Nov 17, 2006, 10:33 PM
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Dang!! I don't even keep track but I would doubt many could compare against your year.
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thomasribiere
Nov 17, 2006, 10:38 PM
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A few nice multipitch routes on french limestone. But no strong numbers. Enough to keep the faith.
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docburner
Nov 17, 2006, 10:47 PM
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So far I have failed to meet my goals for the year but I am close and there is still at least 7 days left this year that are climbable. So I think your thread is premature
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ratherbe
Nov 17, 2006, 11:07 PM
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My goals for this year were: climb in 3 areas new to me and dip my foot into leading some Gunks 5.8's by the end of the season. Check and check. New areas visited were Acadia, Red Rocks, and Smith, and a bonus 4th, Cannon Mtn. Gunks is still my favorite, so I spent a lot of time there and worked thru the 5.6s and many 5.7s. With so many stellar routes to choose from, it's hard to get enough of it. 5.8s that went down included Yellow Belly and Arrow. Two very different types of climbs and both wonderfully fun.
It's been a GREAT year.
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valygrl
Nov 17, 2006, 11:15 PM
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Registered: Jul 8, 2002
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January-February: climbing at Mt. Araplies, rode bicycle from Arapiles to Melbourne, then around Tasmania
March-April: Red Rocks, Indian Creek, Paradise Forks
May-June: Yosemite (the Nose, and some other junk)
July-November: work, except 1 week in Squamish, 1 week in Tahoe, 1 week riding my bike from SF to Santa Barbara.
I can't really complain too much.
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vegastradguy
Nov 17, 2006, 11:26 PM
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hey josh, you forget something on that list after your trip to yosemite? Resolution Arete maybe?
my year was pretty good, climbing wise.
Put up a couple of new routes in Windy Canyon
Climbed Spectrum with josh (flamer)- impressive leading on his part- especially at the crux. proud!
Ticked off Sour Mash and Yellow Brick road-- finally!
Finally returned to yosemite- bagged my onsight of Serenity Crack, Sons of Yesterday, Reeds, and Lunatic Fringe, among others.
The summer was spent sport climbin' up at the Roost where i managed to redpoint a decent handful of .11b's and .11c's.
The fall saw my return to Red Rock and my first .11b trad redpoint- Yin and Yang, along with an onsight of Left Out (.10d), and a second attempt on Mushroom People. I also bagged two .11's sport climbin on sandstone- Totally Clips (.11a- onsight) and Yaak Crack (.11d- flash). A ton of other routes and good fun with new friends (some from Boston)were had along the way.
In Sept, josh (flamer) stopped by and we launched on Resolution Arete (my second trip up the route) and were back down to the car well before dark!
Two trips to Paradise Forks this year- once at the start of summer, once at the end. I got on the Prow and got schooled, but onsighted Loose Lips, Raindance, and Jolly Roger among others.
Joshua Tree adventures too- got spanked on Bearded Cabbage, redpointed the Gunsmoke Traverse, and onsighted Clean and Jerk. Good times were had by all, especially on halloween weekend @ Ryan Campground! woo!
Only a couple weekends without climbing so far, which is excellent, and i've still got 6 weekends left this year to get out and play- this weekend Red Zinger (.10d) and the Friar are on the list. Joshua Tree is in the works at least once more, and hopefully i'll tick off a few more long classics before the year is out!
lots of other routes were done this year- and i had a great time on all of them (as usual)....
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flamer
Nov 17, 2006, 11:50 PM
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In reply to: hey josh, you forget something on that list after your trip to yosemite? Resolution Arete maybe?
Yes i left out several things....I'm at work and I had to go put out a fire...literally!! But If you look I've finished my post at this point.
To everyone that has responded so far....This is exactly what i want to see!!! I think It's awesome to hear about people accomplishing their goals and having adventure's.
Valygrl...how was riding your bike around Aus?
josh
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alpinismo_flujo
Nov 18, 2006, 12:23 AM
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Wow - and I was just stoked that my farts got smellier in 2006.
The year isn't over yet....I'm sure you've got time to add to your impressive list...GO GET IT!
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anykineclimb
Nov 18, 2006, 2:32 AM
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Awesome list Flamer!
Thats what I like about keeping a climbing log, I track all my shit like that.
As for my year? Left Iraq in July, moved back to Colorado in late July and have pretty much climbed at least every weekend. I was hoping for 50 days out climbing but I might be a few short.
Took a road trip to Devils Tower and Mt Rushmore.
Climbed all over Shelf, South Platte, Red Rock Canyon and 11 Mile. FINALLY made it up to Eldo (Thanks Cindy!!)
After 2 years of nearly NO climbing, I'm happliy OS easy 10s.
Tomorrow, I'll be putting in my 3rd day of ice!
even though its been only five months for me, 2006 has been a great climbing year.
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puerto
Nov 18, 2006, 4:08 AM
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My year fucking sucked...
After solidly leading some 5.9 sport routes in 05, I thought I'd take my chance at 5.6 trad..anyways, I had to be rescued by the guy on the route next me, while my 300 lb wife watched all along..,,
Then I quit clmbing and remembered my upbringing in the cornfields of Iowa, I says to myself " Ima make myself a real-life surfer biatches...""
After being rescued from that predicament in front of hardcore surfer Cameron Diaz at Malibu, I thought maybe I should try to get revenge at the kind of tools who post threads like this by ...uuuhh..brain overloaded with possibilities...somebody take over for me..like someone said EJECT EJECT
(This post was edited by puerto on Nov 18, 2006, 4:13 AM)
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docburner
Nov 18, 2006, 4:19 AM
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I guess I meant 7 days that I'll be able to climb this year :) And none of it is going to be freezing my ass off ice climbing
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flamer
Nov 18, 2006, 4:19 AM
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In reply to: Then I quit clmbing and remembered my upbringing in the cornfields of Iowa, I says to myself " Ima make myself a real-life surfer biatches..."" After being rescued from that predicament, I thought maybe I should try to make the kind of tools who post threads like this pass into the otherworld...
Ah first I read the first part quoted above and I thoughth ...hmmm someone that knows me and is busting my balls.
Then i read the second part and thought...better be.
Cause guess what fruitcake? I ain't afeared o' much and certainly not a no name coward like you. But I have a suspicion as to who you are...and as I said before my reach is farther than you know.
Too everyone one else I'd say please carry on! I'm enjoying hearing about YOUR climbs!
josh
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flamer
Nov 18, 2006, 4:22 AM
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In reply to: I guess I meant 7 days that I'll be able to climb this year :) And none of it is going to be freezing my ass off ice climbing
So fire that shit dude! Other wise next year starts shortly....
josh
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puerto
Nov 18, 2006, 4:35 AM
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flamer
Nov 18, 2006, 4:48 AM
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In reply to: C'mon dude..WTF does your climbing year have to do people who are not at that level when it comes to climbing? You see Chris Sharma or Dave Graham in here posting about their accomplishments? Maybe your 2 or 3 buds will back you up no matter what, but shit...as if we didn't have enough f*cking problems with our youth saying..."I'm gonnna be the bad ass climber, rapper, skateboarder, model, etc...." You're a bad ass, understood, but tone it down a bit...
Oh blow me. I was going to give some PC thing about how I'm not the spray lord you are trying to make me out to be. And truth be told I'm not.
But Instead I'm just going to tell you to fuck right off, you no name sniping little coward...I loved the veiled threat's you tried to change, too bad I quoted them huh?
Some of the best days I had this year(and truthfully ever) were climbing with friends on some ultra classic 5.6.
Folks I don't care what you climb or don't....as long as you're HAVING FUN. I'd very much like to hear about it! That's why I started this thread...that's what I hope continue's.
If you don't like it...scroll the page up and look at something else.
josh
Oh and by the way I'm an absolutely terrible surfer. I do it because it's fun and challenging for me. I will never be good at it and I don't care! I mentioned it in my "year in review" because it was something memorable for me this year.
(This post was edited by flamer on Nov 18, 2006, 4:55 AM)
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puerto
Nov 18, 2006, 4:53 AM
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flamer
Nov 18, 2006, 4:59 AM
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In reply to: There you go that's more NOT like " I'm the bad ass of the year..".. instead of "what have you done? THAT WAS ABOVE YOUR PREVIOUS ABILITY?
How come everyone but you got it the first time?
Who let the "look at me I know puerto locals" surfer idiot in anyway?
Now shoe fly!
josh
(This post was edited by flamer on Nov 18, 2006, 5:39 AM)
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anykineclimb
Nov 18, 2006, 5:03 AM
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Dude? WTF? This thread is for folks proud of their accomplishmnets and want to SHARE with others.
If you're feeling a little self concious after Josh's post, don't come in here pointing fingers to make yourself feel better.
Everyone should spray every once n a while and now is a perfect time to celebrate a successful climbing year.
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sorryfingers
Nov 18, 2006, 5:06 AM
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My year has been so sweet.
I started climbing in June!
I started bouldering a bit outside in July.
In august I started sport climbing outside and went on a road trip and lead my first route ever (A 5.9 in skaha).
Since then, I've climbed a 3 pitch route at mcgillvery slabs, and climbed a bit more at wasootch, barrier and heart creek.
Then school started again, so my life is over.
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flamer
Nov 18, 2006, 5:37 AM
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In reply to: My year has been so sweet. I started climbing in June! I started bouldering a bit outside in July. In august I started sport climbing outside and went on a road trip and lead my first route ever (A 5.9 in skaha). Since then, I've climbed a 3 pitch route at mcgillvery slabs, and climbed a bit more at wasootch, barrier and heart creek. Then school started again, so my life is over.
Thanks Bro!! That's what i wanted to hear!!
Sounds like you had a hell of a year!! Watch out the bug that's bitten you turns into an addiction before you know it!!
josh
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flamer
Nov 18, 2006, 5:40 AM
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In reply to: Dude? WTF? This thread is for folks proud of their accomplishmnets and want to SHARE with others.
Yep you got it...and apparently had a damn good year yourself.
josh
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hangerlessbolt
Nov 18, 2006, 10:38 AM
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I had a wonderful year
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porcelainsunset
Nov 18, 2006, 11:19 AM
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Well, started off the year with really bad tendonitus in both of my wrist.
Missed the Ouray Ice fest because of it.
Made plans to spend May in Yosimite, and maybe even climb through June.
Missed because of tendonitus.
I ended up getting a job at a really cool local grocery store. My boss use to manage a REI, so we hit it off great. I worked 40 hour weeks and crashed on my mom's couch, rent free.
Planned on walking accross Oregon, failed due to job.
Every week I did something awesome though, which is why I never got around to quiting like I had planned on. My boss made every attempt he could to help me get time off when I needed it. I never had to say No to anyting because of work. Because of this, I was actually was able to spend alot of time outside, and still made alot of money, which I used all of it on getting out of debt and buying gear.
I spent my summer belaying and teaching some of my friends at Smith. Took my girlfriend up Monkey Face, Pioneer Route, III 5.7 A1, which I lead in approach shoes because I managed to forget my climbing shoes in the car, and did this without climbing in 6 months. Took a friend up the West Face Variation III 5.8 A1, but bailed due to bad weather. Saw him get his first trad lead that same trip.
I also wen't hiking all over Oregon, hand some great trips in areas that I have never been before.
Climbed Adams twice, one was a bail on the Mazama Route(grade II) route due to weather, the successful climb was up the South Spur (Grade 1). This was my frist introduction to mountaineering, and I love it!
Later I took a Solo Onsight attempt at Mt Hood via the South Side, grade II. I attempted the climb in October. For anybody who has ever been up Hood, you know how amazingly stupid this was. Well, stupid here got off route, (of course) and ended up getting a premature introduction to Mixed climbing, with the mountain as my only teacher. Well, all I had was a nice ice ax, shitty crampons that still used leather for their strapping system (I bought them at a garage sale) and even worse boots which where old REI rentals that I got from a parking lot sale, they cost $15 and make my feet bleed every time I wear them. So, it's 4 am, I'm the only one on the mountain, my gear (excluding my ax) is just about worthless, and here I am trying to learn how to do Mixed Climbing at 11,000 feet. I have no idea how to rate the difficulty of what I got myself into, but on a stupidity scale of 1-10 it was a 12. Anyway, it was a gully full of roten snow, thin ice, and some really chossy volcanic rock, at about 75 degrees, with sections that where as steep as like 85 for 6 or 8 feet. The moves felt like about 5.4 or 5.5, and this went on for a good 100 vertical feet. Oh, and their was a small amount of rock fall the entire time. I also chose to not wear my helmet. Anway, easily the dumbest thing I have ever done in my life. Once I got out of it alive and in one piece, I found the route, contiued climbing until I herd the entire summit ampathetier echoing with the sound of rock fall everywhere. I turned around and wen't and got some Carls Juninor. I should really write a trip report about how not to climb a mountain.
In December I turn 21, and right before hand me and a buddy are going to climb South, Middle, and North Sister in three days. I am really looking forward to that trip. I will be buying new boots and crampons if I have to sale my car.
I still have tendonitus.
All in all, my year has kicked some major ass. I had alot of fun despite being injured. I might even go so far to say that this was the best year of my life. Next year will hopefully only be better. I get to go to Thailand, Ouray, Banff, and maybe even Yosimite. And who knows, I might even be able to climb?
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