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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 1:15 AM
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Yup, you heard me. I realize that what I'm saying borders on trad heresy; I realize that American free climbing was BORN on this rock type!!! Furthermore, before you start dismissing this thread as the rantings of a sport climber, let me clarify that I LOVE trad, I LOVE placing gear, and I LOVE cracks. However, I cannot find love for the Granite! Compared to sandstone, its cracks are substandard they lack consistancy, they peter out, they flare, etc. Climb at Indian Creek and you'll understand me. Face features? Granite cannot compare with the pockets and edges of good limestone or quartzite. Its only strength, as far as I am concerned, is its slab. Okay, I'll give it that much: Slab away baby! However, I hate slab, so granite really has little to offer. bottom line? What is so firckin great about this overrated, intrusive volcanic igneous bastard of a rock type? Does anybody agree with me? Or am I going to have a slew of Jtree and Yosemite bred climbers string me up with my set of Fatcams??? BRING IT ON!
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midwestslacker
Sep 13, 2002, 1:22 AM
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What are you complaining about Granite for? All I have is crappy quartzite and the occasional sandstone which is pretty good quality for Wisconsin. I would do anything to be on granite right now. Ive climbed it once in Colorado and I miss it. Dont knock until you try to live with out it. But I guess as long as Im climbing its all good. Keep It Real
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veep23
Sep 13, 2002, 1:33 AM
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Yehhhh, the face climbs on City of Rocks granite blow.
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krustyklimber
Sep 13, 2002, 1:35 AM
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Pual man, Were you out climbing in the heat, or maybe without your helmet and hit your head? You seem to have lost your mind! I hope you find it! Jeff Don't take climbing for Granite!
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dsafanda
Sep 13, 2002, 1:42 AM
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Poor misguided individual. I hope you get better soon.
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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 1:50 AM
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midwest slacker, I am currently living away from sandstone, so I can relate!
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climbinganne
Sep 13, 2002, 1:59 AM
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i love all kinds of rock, I LOVE granite of LCC and CoR the quartzite of BCC ...and AF's pockets rule...my favorite sandstone is Stu's *wink!!! ... and even my home rock...hot as hell, black, greasy schist, we lovingly refer to as shitzz!!!!
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cragchica
Sep 13, 2002, 2:07 AM
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I have no real allegiance to any particular type of rock. I have climbed Red Rocks sandstone, Jacks Canyon limestone, I've climbed Yosemite too. I love them all! I must say, however, I didn't really like granite myself until I experienced Southern Arizona Granite. It is beautiful! Gorgeous! it has huecos, chickenheads, cracks, fissures... On Mt. Lemmon you'll often find it laced with delicate bands of quartz crystals. In Cochise Stronghold you can climb entire pitches slinging only chickenheads as pro. For photos of Cochise and it's goreous granite... It is an entirely different experience than most granite around. If you don't believe me please come visit and climb it for yourself - the invitation is open. ~Andria [ This Message was edited by: cragchica on 2002-09-12 19:17 ]
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coconutz
Sep 13, 2002, 2:11 AM
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You have to remember that the Granite you climbed on in the Wichita mountains is some of the oldest exposed rock in the world. The Wichita mountains are also one of the oldest "mountain ranges" in North America. They have eroded away quite a bit. The cracks there are usually flaring and slick like you said. This, however is not like the granite everwhere else. Granite usually has pretty uniform crack and dosen't typically have flaring cracks. The flaring cracks in the Wichita mountains was more than lickly formed by cooling from the Lava that poured over it 500 to 550 million years ago. That is a lot of time to be exposed to the elements and erosion. [ This Message was edited by: coconutz on 2002-09-12 19:12 ]
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beyond_gravity
Sep 13, 2002, 2:12 AM
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What about the Granite boulders? Gotta love the slopers!
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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 2:15 AM
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Oh yeah!!! I forgot about slopers. Let me restate my case. I really really really hate granite! and I've been on it at places other than the Wichitas (LCC, City of Rocks, Wind Rivers).
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coconutz
Sep 13, 2002, 2:35 AM
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congradulations
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krustyklimber
Sep 13, 2002, 2:43 AM
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All Granite is tertiary rock, and is as old as the solid crust of the earth, as it is the original crust! It was all formed in the Earths early violent days, and not much of it survives today. Once it has subducted into the earths furances down below it is gone forever... only to resurface as new basalt, which pours out over great expanses of wet earth and with it's power and heat created places like Devils Tower, Smith Rocks, Jacks Canyon. Even Pauls beloved Indian creek was created by the gravitational forces pulling the weight of the original Earths crust, floating into a molten planet. And that heat created in it's sinking crust, and the rock that oozed out to fill its place, caused the diversity of rock we all can utilize for our enjoyment. Be glad in your use of our planets dwindling Granite it's time on this Earth, not unlike yours, is fleeting "Catch Time" and share it with the stone, whatever kind it is. There will be more sandstone, limestone, and basalt formed, for as long as the Earth is alive, but not granite. I love Granite. Sandstone is overrated! Jeff
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sonofspork
Sep 13, 2002, 2:48 AM
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Granite is kick ass. Granted, Joshua Tree quartzite is very rough and can be a pain in the ass. But, the granite at Tahquits is great. Also, granite bouldering kicks tons of ass. And ohh no....the crack is not the same the whole way. That's the stupidest shit, saying that granite sucks cuz it flares or whatever. Learn to deal with it. The difference in characteristic of each crack or parts of the same one make it more challenging and interesting. -sONofSpORk
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nbrown
Sep 13, 2002, 2:59 AM
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All Climbing is fun on any type of rock.
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beyond_gravity
Sep 13, 2002, 3:09 AM
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Thats reminds me... "It's all climbing brutha" Adam quote
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okieterry
Sep 13, 2002, 3:22 AM
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camhead - I know what you mean. I climb at the Wichitas all the time and you're right, it isn't the best. Most of the time you're pulling on sharp little crap. For good cracks, try "desperate reality". its nice and smooth and pure. other good cracks are in the wichitas are "steep show" and "drop dead" on lost dome and "Ra", "Claw", "Babes on Harleys", and "Power Series" on Crab Eyes. If you want really smooth, flawless stone, pm me and I'll give you directions to the quarry. the quality of rock here and the climbing rivals anything that I've seen anywhere.
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jgill
Sep 13, 2002, 3:22 AM
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Back in the Dark(i.e., Golden)Ages I fell off more granite problems than Dakota sandstone problems. Therefore, I like sandstone (or quartzite) better.
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okieterry
Sep 13, 2002, 3:43 AM
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Speaking of granite....John, your ascent of the thimble was one of the greatest climbs ever. I think that it signified the beginning of a new age - where the unthinkable is possible.
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blindslap
Sep 13, 2002, 4:52 AM
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i'm happy on any rock. (except some of that nasty, flaky, rotten quartzite in BCC) just be happy you can climb.
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climbingcam
Sep 13, 2002, 5:29 AM
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Hey thats great- more granite for me baby. Ha. (there's this thing called technique that you have to learn)
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climbinganne
Sep 13, 2002, 5:31 AM
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camhead...i finally get it...hahahahahahahahaha
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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 7:40 PM
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What do you finally get, Anne???
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radistrad
Sep 13, 2002, 8:01 PM
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Cha dude! Granite rocks. From the way you describe your perfect sandstone cracks it sounds like there is not as much of a challenge and your technique does not have to be as well rounded as it does for granite. I have not climbed you perfect sandstone cracks, but I bet my granite experince will enable to to do quite well as my technique is fairly well rounded. Granite rocks, and the sandstone near me requires sloper technique. [ This Message was edited by: radistrad on 2002-09-13 13:36 ]
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mikedano
Sep 13, 2002, 8:28 PM
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This post has upset me more than any other, including all the ones about bolting. DUDE??!?!! Granite rules all. What granite have you climbed on, to make such a terrible statement? God hates people like you. All I have to say is: Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO. It is granite crack at its best. I need to go take a shower or something, this has upset me so...
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elvislegs
Sep 13, 2002, 8:36 PM
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"Does anybody agree with me? Or am I going to have a slew of Jtree and Yosemite bred climbers string me up with my set of Fatcams??? " ...Somebody Get A Rope.
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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 8:41 PM
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Ain't nuthin wrong with my crack technique, except for that I have yet to do 5.13. I am going to go ahead and argue that sandstone cracks can force you to use crack technique MORE!!! For the most part, sandstone lacks the little noncomformities of granite such as those little edges and lumps inside the crack that the sporties manage to use as face holds. Furthermore, the crystals of granite can often make for good foot placements outside the crack. Not so with sandstone it is all you, the crack, and nothing else baby!!! I'd say that sandstone takes more PURE technique any frickin day. Not to mention (eww this will piss ya'll off) the softer nature of sandstone gives you two factors that do not enter into granite climbing as much: 1) to safely climb, you should usually place more pro than in granite thus, more endurance is needed. 2) The stakes are higher, and falls are more serious. What would you rather fall on, a stopper in granite, or a cam in sandstone??? hahaha [ This Message was edited by: camhead on 2002-09-13 13:46 ]
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ride
Sep 13, 2002, 8:42 PM
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since all rock on the planet comes from (one way or another) igneous rocks, this is a moot point is it not? or am I forgetting EVERYTHING I learned in geology. granite, sandstone, buildings, trees, corporate ladders, it's all climbing.
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mikedano
Sep 13, 2002, 8:52 PM
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Oh, Ok, now I understand. You're from Texas. Dallas no less. It all makes sense now.
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bluesky
Sep 13, 2002, 8:53 PM
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I think I had about one minute of your reaction mike. But hey, Lumpy's already a little qued up at times so let's foster this attitude in all but those we dearly love BTW I've got my rope so we can string camhead up by his toes tickling him until he gives in to trying beautiful splitter granite cracks that we all love and cherish. Someone back me up on this - one date with the split pillar pitch on the Grand Wall at Squamish would change camheads' tune? Then again let's not and let him live in ignorance Peace Jesse
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mountainhardon
Sep 13, 2002, 8:54 PM
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1) to safely climb, you should usually place more pro than in granite thus, more endurance is needed. so... your saying that you don't like to run it out and your scared of slabs??? puss. wimp.
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dongonthier
Sep 13, 2002, 9:03 PM
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The best rock around isn't granite, its Columbia River Basalt and not that stuff out in Eastern Washington, no the best stuff is in the Gorge just east of Portland. There are miles of 4 or 500 foot cliffs just studded with handholds only a short walk from the road. The best part is if you find a hold you like, you can take it home. As a matter of fact, you can take any of them with you. Actually if it wasn't for the moss and dirt there wouldn't be any left. But man there's lots of it.
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climbjs
Sep 13, 2002, 9:08 PM
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Paul, I'm glad you voiced your opinion. I find that we often take other peoples opinions quite personally. In my opinion, to each his/her own. I, personally, love granite! However, I don't think that any rock of good quality sucks. Just my opinion.
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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 9:08 PM
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mikedano, that last comment was just hitting below the belt. I am already having serious psychological issues with my recent move from Utah to Dallas, and I don't need other westerners rubbing in my current geographical dilemma.
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spydermonkey
Sep 13, 2002, 9:08 PM
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I love granite, its the best stuff I've ever been on. Haven't quite learned to place equipment yet but will soon. spyder
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bluesky
Sep 13, 2002, 9:17 PM
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Camhead - I share your love for Desert splitters, yet I'm sorry you haven't experienced the joy of granite splitters. Your loss really. Some sandstone forces pure crack climbing - others don't. There is just a tad bit of featured sandstone face climbing and 'cracks' with plenty of 'cheater' face holds on them. Front Range Dakota sandstone comes to mind. cheers, Jesse
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jhump
Sep 13, 2002, 9:28 PM
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It is only overrated to you. Most appreciate is subtle irregularities, and the refinements in technique needed to climb it. By the way, some granite is very tight grained and offers very little to use outside of the crack, and other granite is juggy crystals on top of crystals. To lump all granite into one category only shows that you have yet to experience it in all of its forms. Just as you should not lump sandstone into one mass. In the east, where I live, sandstone is not so splitter (seneca, new river, red river). Most cracks here involve little jamming, and copious face holds. It is a very distant style to the Wingate climbing that you love. The style here is excellent, but I really appreciate when I get to touch some solid, white granite. I am just wondering how you got turned off to granite. Did you learn on sandstone? Did you epic on granite? I could not imagine harboring ill feelings toward any solid, climbable rock.
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dune
Sep 13, 2002, 9:43 PM
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Camhead, your logic is wrong and obviously very few agree with you. If someone raves about granite it doesn't necessarily degrade the quality of everything else. How obtuse are you to think in such terms? You are as rotten as the sand stone cliffs on the shores of California. Don't show up at the granite crags now Camhead or someone will have to usher you out via the wedgey method. Love ya
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pushfurther
Sep 13, 2002, 9:56 PM
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i'll take limestone over granite anyday.
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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 10:10 PM
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Hey jhump, in response to your questions: Yup, I did learn trad on the sandstone of Southern Utah, and yes, I've had a few epics and near epics on granite. I have not yet mastered the art of placing passive gear while pumped, and this is why most of the epics occured.
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rollingstone
Sep 13, 2002, 10:21 PM
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Camhead: I will confess right here, right now, that I, too like sandstone. Every Spring, when I am ready to warm up old muscles that have not climbed outdoors through a Seattle winter, I head straight for Peshashtin Pinnacles for a cute little workout on local sandstone...then when I feel ready for a true workout, I get psyched up for granite or maybe Columbia River basalt ( a demanding mistress). I will even agree that sandstone is better than granite...for landscaping. There is a house near mine that has a gorgeous garden with terraced walls built from the cutest sandstone...
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sully
Sep 13, 2002, 10:39 PM
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I love it ALL!!! I live in Iowa, and any climbing that I can get is GREAT. My favorites: Looking Glass Rock (NC) Red River Gorge Vedauwoo (sick, rough granite) Lumpy Indian Creek Zion Canyon Wall etc. I may say that I like granite best, but I have never received a full body pump like I did climbing at Indian Creek. That is some seriously physical climbing. Camhead has a point.
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micronut
Sep 13, 2002, 10:49 PM
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In the alpine arena, there is not better rock type. Go do some rock routes in the Canadian Rockies,and you'll soon be wishing and daydreaming of clean Sierra granite. You'll proabally pack up and head straight to the Bugs. All the premire alpine areas (or most) are granite. And how could anyone, anywhere dis the Needles of the southern Sierra? Sure, for cutting edge sport routes, Ceuse type limestone is proabally better, but I'm not Sharma or Grahm, so......
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cyberclimber
Sep 13, 2002, 10:58 PM
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Hey Paul, as soon as I saw this thread, I knew it had to be you. I thought by now you would be in love with the Top Rope route, after all, it's only a 5.11 face climb Some of these days I will take you to Robbers Cave, great hard sandstone with an ironite covering, sharp edged cracks and huecos,,,yummy. Nothing over 40 ft, nothing over 5.12, no sport and little trad however, sorry, but it is still a fun little place. I have heard of another sandstone bluffline being developed in SE Oklahoma, even closer to you, but details are still sketchy. I'm sorry you didn't like the Wichitas, but at least it's not that dried mud they call rock like at Moab (that aught to start a fight).
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toobigtoclimb
Sep 14, 2002, 12:08 AM
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Paul, You should llloooovvvveeeee granite after that nut tweeking fall you took in SLC! Lucky bastard!
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geckobean1
Sep 14, 2002, 12:32 AM
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I agree with nbrown. ANY CLIBMING IS GOOD CLIMBING!
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deafclimber
Sep 14, 2002, 12:44 AM
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i like sandstone over granite. we have boat rock's granite boulders in atlanta. granite eats ur shoes and ur fingers' skins up ! owie ! owie !
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tarzan420
Sep 14, 2002, 1:01 AM
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better than basalt...
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alpinerocket
Sep 14, 2002, 2:59 AM
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I live in Salt Lake City so I have the luxury of haveing gneis, quartzite, granite and limestone vey close. I love it all. All of the rock has its differnt qualities. It is a nice change when you are cranking jugs on quartite and you can go hit some slabs on granite to give your guns a break
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micahmcguire
Sep 14, 2002, 9:22 PM
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not all granite is like the granite at indian creek, smart guy. Archangel Valley, AK for example has tons of great grine, chock-full of surface features, good cracks, and just incredible strength. Not only does alot of granite offer everything you are saying it does not, in many respects it is a much more interesting rock. I dont see much sandstone or limestone that looks quite like it. However, this whole topic borders on absurdity, "you think the color blue is better, well I think red is better." But hey, speaking out against granite, you've got it coming.
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spoon
Sep 14, 2002, 10:32 PM
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"Ohhhhh, it's not consistant, it flares, there aren't any good pockets." There there little girl, i think i have a set of stairs for you to climb that's right about your speed.
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micahmcguire
Sep 15, 2002, 9:48 PM
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haha, damn roight spoon!
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boulderingmadman
Sep 15, 2002, 10:02 PM
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so let me get this straight...in order for a climb to be good, at least in camheads opinion, it has to be consistent and similar all the way through???? HAHAHAHAHA!!! thats IS the beauty of granite. constantly changing. never the same. always new. long cracks in tuolomne...hmmmm i LOVE that shit. change your technique and style with almost every move!! YEA!!!! keep that mofo interesting
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pusherem
Sep 15, 2002, 11:42 PM
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it really blows that you think that way because granite is the only rock that is actually climbable...pussy -eric
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camhead
Sep 16, 2002, 12:01 AM
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What a contraDICKtion!!! I'm a "pussy" because I climb rock that is not climbable!!!! That is the best compliment I've gotten for a while! honestly, though the response to this thread has been impressive. I've met nobody yet that shares my xenophobic narrowmindedness, but several people have offered to personally ENLIGHTEN me. Thanks, truly., Paul
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froggy
Sep 16, 2002, 12:47 AM
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Hi Paul, I have got to disagree. I just lead my first pitch of 5.8 in Tahquitz and it made me think pretty hard. You have to climb granite like Tahquitz and Yosemite way different than any other kind of climbing that I have done. It takes a variation of moves and techniques that make it much more interesting and difficult.
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micahmcguire
Sep 16, 2002, 10:19 AM
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Pusherem, I will, for civility's sake, let you explain your statement "granite is the only rock that is climbable" before I rip into you like last week's mail. I may be a big fan of granite, but just what in the hell do you mean??
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dantman
Sep 16, 2002, 12:03 PM
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You need to come play on some granite in Maine and New Hampshire. We love our granite
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atg200
Sep 16, 2002, 2:12 PM
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It appears you haven't been to the South Platte or Yosemite yet - both of which have splitters that compare favorably to Indian Creek in terms of pureness and lack of faceholds. Personally, I enjoy climbing on granite most of all, but the most rewarding climbing i've ever done has always been on desert sandstone towers. I like Indian Creek too, but that is for rest days in between the real climbing on towers
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geoteck
Sep 16, 2002, 2:48 PM
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Granite forms in such a way that makes it great to climb. It's all because of the crystals. And by the way (call me picky if you want): 1.) Granite is not volcanic - Grainite is igneous formed from "magma" below the ground while volcanic rocks are formed from "lava" above ground 2.) Tertiary rock are only those in the last 65 million years (Sorry Krusty!)- Coconutz is right in saying that the granites are some of the worlds oldest rocks - They are “Cambrian” and “Pre-Cambrian” (he is correct in the age - over 500 million years old) 3.) I will ignore the awful and incorrect use of the word "non-conformify" Sorry about all that - it just had to be said!
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sparky
Sep 16, 2002, 8:28 PM
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poor deprived me, i have never climbed granite
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calamity_chk
Sep 16, 2002, 8:39 PM
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eh, i think that paul is just bitter about moving from Utah to Dallas ... just my .02 ..
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dsafanda
Sep 16, 2002, 8:42 PM
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Let's get the standard disclaimer out of the way first. Yes, this conversation is ridiculous and I think we (well most of us apart from camhead)would agree that all types of rock offer fantastc climbing. That said...as if we really need one, here's another defense of granite. What continuous sandstone cliff do you know of that tower 3000' off the deck? Ask Tommy Caldwell which splitter crack he prefers...the Salathe headwall on ElCap or some 1-3 pitch IndianCreek line? I think I know the answer.
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cedk
Sep 16, 2002, 8:54 PM
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Maybe granite isn't over-rated it's just that other kinds of rock are under-rated. Personally I think if anything's over-rated it's Krispy Kreme donuts. I mean they're good but they're still just donuts.
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dsafanda
Sep 16, 2002, 9:01 PM
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atg200
Sep 16, 2002, 9:11 PM
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Sure, but what is granite's answer to the Titan or the Totem Pole? There are walls in Zion and the Wadi Rum that are a lot closer in size to El Cap than the largest free standing granite spires are to the sheer skinniness of sandstone towers. Anybody freed both Moonlight Buttress and Salathe and want to comment? Comparing El Cap to Indian Creek is like comparing Angels Landing to the Cookie Cliff.
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dsafanda
Sep 16, 2002, 9:24 PM
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That's a good point. Still, Moonlight is only a third the size of ElCap. I guess my point was simply that if you've ever experienced the expanse of a giant granite wall you probably wouldn't be criticizing granite rock as having "little to offer." btw. I think we're going to have to look pretty hard to find someone who has freed both Salathe and Moonlight. You could count them on one hand if there are any.
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fieldmouse
Sep 16, 2002, 9:37 PM
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thats quite a statement.
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camhead
Sep 16, 2002, 10:16 PM
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damn Andrew, "Indian Creek on rest days?" now THAT is masocistic aid climber jargon if I've heard any!
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chadplusplus
Sep 16, 2002, 11:14 PM
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Come on Sparky. How can you live in Lakewood and have never climbed Granite? Must... look... beyond... table mountain...
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winkwinklambonini
Sep 17, 2002, 1:26 AM
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Just like a climber, good rock will bring it all to the show, perfect edges, splitter cracks, nasty runnout slab. Granite is king(windgate is queen), and it's taller than everything else.
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crackwhore
Sep 17, 2002, 2:00 AM
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oh camhead art thou sooo disappointed with E-rock??? just treat it as roped bouldering. try the following hit list: False Determination, Ding Dongs and Taco Sauce, Texas Crude, Shrike, Fear of Flying, Tonka Toys from Hell, Welcome to Boot Camp. Granite (Quartz Monzonite to be exact) not so bad???
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camhead
Sep 17, 2002, 2:47 AM
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I haven't gotten out to e-rock, actually. I'v heard cool stuff, though.
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doghere
Sep 17, 2002, 6:23 PM
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Climbing.... Like some things in life are not for everyone. Climbing wil give someone a false sence of knowledge, and to gain this knowledge you must experience it. If you refuse to get out of your comfort zone by not exposing yourself, you will never grow. Expose yourselfThrive on challenge, and don't cry about what the rock does to you. You should shout what you can do with the rock. Doghere
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aarong
Sep 17, 2002, 6:53 PM
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How can you eliminate an entire type of rock? Man, that really narrows down your climbing options. I'd rather be fluent at all types of climbing and find things I like about all types of rock. What makes the best climbers, is versatility.
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atg200
Sep 17, 2002, 7:42 PM
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How can you eliminate an entire type of rock? Easy. I dislike climbing limestone - it just doesn't hold any interest to me whatsoever. Thankfully, there are thousands of routes on granite and sandstone within 2 hours of my house, and more than I could do within a lifetime if I drive for 6 hours. Now, if I am willing to travel to say Joshua Tree, Red Rocks, or Yosemite, I've just added another couple of thousand routes. Now add New Hampshire, the Gunks, TWall, and Looking Glass, and I have a few thousand more routes to do. Now add Index, Squamish, the Bugaboos - well, you get the idea. Why on earth would I waste my time on a sort of rock that I don't enjoy when there is so much to do that I do enjoy?
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cedk
Sep 17, 2002, 8:13 PM
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Gunks is limestone isn't it?
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atg200
Sep 17, 2002, 8:35 PM
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No, the Gunks is quartz conglomerate. Absolutely nothing like limestone.
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scradje
Sep 17, 2002, 11:42 PM
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I'd have to say that I've never climbed on Limestone, but have climbed on Granite and LOVED it. I reckon that its the best climbing rock out there. Sandstone is almost as good, but never climb mudstone, Holds break off all the time. Trust me! Go Granite Chris
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wyclimber
Sep 19, 2002, 1:25 AM
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Cammy, I'll have to agree, the splitters in Indian Creek are superbalishious! But wait aren't there other types of climbs there too?! Ones that aren't consistant? Take Supercrack Buttress for example: the variety of climbs nestled on that one crag are very diverse and all are trad AND share the same kind of stone. From what I read, you like sandstone for what IC offered you on some of its pitches - parallel sided cracks with no other features. It's cool that you found something you dig, but part of what makes climbing so much fun is the exploring. Take what you know you like and look for it elsewhere, you will never cease to be amazed at what you find. Please don't rule anything out!
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gambler
Sep 19, 2002, 2:07 AM
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Yeah...that granite stuff really sucks,when all you get to do is lousy routes like Astroman in the Valley,Grand Wall and Freeway at Squamish,the Needles in Sequoia....why should we subject ourselves to such chosspiles gambler
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aarong
Oct 18, 2002, 7:30 PM
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You're right cedk, Krispy Creme donute ARE just donuts...why the hell would someone wait in a drive thru line for 20 minutes for a goddamn donut? (unless it's a chocolate long-john, ummmm)
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lox
Oct 18, 2002, 10:39 PM
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Granite sucks. Limestone rocks your dome.
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tanner
Oct 18, 2002, 11:13 PM
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I like granite. It looks cool. it hold gear realy well. The slabs are interesting. the cracks are so nice to climb. The evolved sand stone of the skaha bluffs I really liked because it was really sharp and featured. I would love to climb any good rock!
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lox
Oct 18, 2002, 11:13 PM
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Crack kills.
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pusherem
Oct 18, 2002, 11:54 PM
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Man o man, i think its funny how some of you guys are bashing granite...mabey you just suck at climbing it, mabey you arent confident enough to NOT place cams in your limestone and just pretend you have a pair of testicles, suck it up and climb. What a bunch of whiners man, bithching about how you cant handle the difficulty of climbing granite. complain all you want about the "lack of features"...mabey you arent looking hard enough or mabey you just suck and you cant deal. hell yeah Eric
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lox
Oct 18, 2002, 11:56 PM
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Uhh... I flash like v8 on granite. Granite sucks. Especially compared to the steep, gymnastic climbing of comfortable, fingery limestone. Is that well enough informed for you ?
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freudian
Oct 19, 2002, 1:19 AM
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Camhead: What is your favorite type of rock to climb? So far, in New Brunswick, Canada, the best climbing is on Granite. This rock is often very coarse and sharp. This is a good thing, IMO, cause it helps your fingers and hands grip it better. The not-so-good climbing areas local to me are not granite. The are limestone or similar smooth rock. I hate smooth rock because its much more difficult to 'friction' on... etc. I love my granite. I can't wait to travel and try Quartzite and check out Sandstone and Basalt. To wrap it all up... I always leave the crag with scratches all over my forearms, ankles, and usually some cuts and deep scrapes on my knuckles. That is all welcomed by me. No pain, no gain (except with shoes, make sure they fit firsT) Freudian
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lox
Oct 19, 2002, 1:31 AM
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You know.. it's correct to say that yor area influences your prefernce. Here, our granite is choss but the limestone ROCKS. Elsewhere, it's reversed.
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coclimber26
Oct 19, 2002, 3:20 PM
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I'm with you...I don't care for Granite. I hate slabs and think granite has less friction than limestone or the local sandstone. Don't get me wrong 11 mile canyon or the south plate are excellent places and I go there all the time but I'd rather be at the limestone of Shelf road or the mixed sandstone of Eldorado Canyon....Although I wouldn't pass up a trip to Yosemite
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petsfed
Oct 19, 2002, 5:22 PM
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I'm no fan of soft rock because I lack the ability, equipment and to a lesser extent, the balls to climb it comfortably. Thus on my one trip to Moab, I didn't enjoy myself terribly well. I'm used to climbing much harder rock like the Dakota Sandstone of Eldo, or the granite in Boulder Canyon, or Vedauwoo. Every piece I place inspires confidence. Mind you I have to tape up my entire body at Vedauwoo, and there is little serenity in the Front Range, but its a worthy trade off. I figure if there's a type of rock I don't like, its probably because I'm not as good a climber as I'd like to be. The notable exception is of course, choss, but who really wants to be good at climbing that anyway? But what the hell do I know? I'm just a cookie. - Reverse side of particularly rare fortune cookie fortune.
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boulderpaul
Oct 19, 2002, 5:52 PM
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granite is the best rock ever. go to the buttermilks!
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lox
Oct 19, 2002, 7:58 PM
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The buttermilks are quartz monzonite.
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bighigaz
Oct 19, 2002, 8:01 PM
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All you granite haters need to stop complaining and accept granite for what it is. I've climbed on slabs, cracks, face climbs, all granite, and to tell you the truth, I LOVE IT! If there ever was a basic definition of "rock" in the dictionary, it should use a picture of granite as the perfect example. Reliable, beautiful, sometimes sharp, sometimes forgiving. ALWAYS fun! It feels warm in the sun, even on cold days. I smile when I look at a big granite chunk of rock... it makes me quiver with excitement and fear. Sandstone is nice, and sure the cracks are quality, but if you want the whole experience, granite is the main ingredient. Basalt is interesting, but it sucks the chalk of your hands. Limestone, especially pocketed, is always fun, but show me 2 or 3,000 feet of it, and I'll be pretty suprised... Okay, I can't resist... "Don't take granite for granted!!!" James.
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lox
Oct 19, 2002, 8:07 PM
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Who gives a f--- about slabs, cracks and face climbs ? The MONEY CLIMBING is all steep, gymnastic and deadpoint specific, with your feet cutting all over the place... SYENITE PORPHYRY IS THE BEST.
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rockram
Oct 19, 2002, 8:19 PM
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Climbing is climbing! I love it ALL! No matter what type of rock, ice, plastic, or whatever...it's all a BLAST!
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lox
Oct 19, 2002, 8:27 PM
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Duh... Every fraternity is overweight white boys who swill booze and kiss each other when they can't pick up women, but they divide in these little houses to have fun with each other. Climba Rocka Limestone RULES !!!111
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