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elvislegs
Sep 13, 2002, 8:36 PM
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"Does anybody agree with me? Or am I going to have a slew of Jtree and Yosemite bred climbers string me up with my set of Fatcams??? "
...Somebody Get A Rope.
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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 8:41 PM
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Ain't nuthin wrong with my crack technique, except for that I have yet to do 5.13.
I am going to go ahead and argue that sandstone cracks can force you to use crack technique MORE!!!
For the most part, sandstone lacks the little noncomformities of granite such as those little edges and lumps inside the crack that the sporties manage to use as face holds. Furthermore, the crystals of granite can often make for good foot placements outside the crack. Not so with sandstone– it is all you, the crack, and nothing else baby!!! I'd say that sandstone takes more PURE technique any frickin day.
Not to mention (eww this will piss ya'll off)
the softer nature of sandstone gives you two factors that do not enter into granite climbing as much:
1) to safely climb, you should usually place more pro than in granite– thus, more endurance is needed.
2) The stakes are higher, and falls are more serious. What would you rather fall on, a stopper in granite, or a cam in sandstone???
hahaha
[ This Message was edited by: camhead on 2002-09-13 13:46 ]
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ride
Sep 13, 2002, 8:42 PM
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since all rock on the planet comes from (one way or another) igneous rocks, this is a moot point is it not?
or am I forgetting EVERYTHING I learned in geology.
granite, sandstone, buildings, trees, corporate ladders, it's all climbing.
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mikedano
Sep 13, 2002, 8:52 PM
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Oh, Ok, now I understand. You're from Texas. Dallas no less. It all makes sense now.
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bluesky
Sep 13, 2002, 8:53 PM
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I think I had about one minute of your reaction mike. But hey, Lumpy's already a little qued up at times so let's foster this attitude in all but those we dearly love
BTW I've got my rope so we can string camhead up by his toes tickling him until he gives in to trying beautiful splitter granite cracks that we all love and cherish. Someone back me up on this - one date with the split pillar pitch on the Grand Wall at Squamish would change camheads' tune? Then again let's not and let him live in ignorance
Peace
Jesse
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mountainhardon
Sep 13, 2002, 8:54 PM
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1) to safely climb, you should usually place more pro than in granite– thus, more endurance is needed.
so... your saying that you don't like to run it out and your scared of slabs???
puss. wimp.
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dongonthier
Sep 13, 2002, 9:03 PM
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The best rock around isn't granite, its Columbia River Basalt and not that stuff out in Eastern Washington, no the best stuff is in the Gorge just east of Portland. There are miles of 4 or 500 foot cliffs just studded with handholds only a short walk from the road. The best part is if you find a hold you like, you can take it home. As a matter of fact, you can take any of them with you. Actually if it wasn't for the moss and dirt there wouldn't be any left. But man there's lots of it.
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climbjs
Sep 13, 2002, 9:08 PM
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Paul, I'm glad you voiced your opinion. I find that we often take other peoples opinions quite personally. In my opinion, to each his/her own. I, personally, love granite! However, I don't think that any rock of good quality sucks. Just my opinion.
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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 9:08 PM
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mikedano, that last comment was just hitting below the belt.
I am already having serious psychological issues with my recent move from Utah to Dallas, and I don't need other westerners rubbing in my current geographical dilemma.
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spydermonkey
Sep 13, 2002, 9:08 PM
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I love granite, its the best stuff I've ever been on. Haven't quite learned to place equipment yet but will soon.
spyder
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bluesky
Sep 13, 2002, 9:17 PM
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Camhead -
I share your love for Desert splitters, yet I'm sorry you haven't experienced the joy of granite splitters. Your loss really.
Some sandstone forces pure crack climbing - others don't. There is just a tad bit of featured sandstone face climbing and 'cracks' with plenty of 'cheater' face holds on them. Front Range Dakota sandstone comes to mind.
cheers,
Jesse
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jhump
Sep 13, 2002, 9:28 PM
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It is only overrated to you. Most appreciate is subtle irregularities, and the refinements in technique needed to climb it. By the way, some granite is very tight grained and offers very little to use outside of the crack, and other granite is juggy crystals on top of crystals. To lump all granite into one category only shows that you have yet to experience it in all of its forms. Just as you should not lump sandstone into one mass. In the east, where I live, sandstone is not so splitter (seneca, new river, red river). Most cracks here involve little jamming, and copious face holds. It is a very distant style to the Wingate climbing that you love. The style here is excellent, but I really appreciate when I get to touch some solid, white granite.
I am just wondering how you got turned off to granite. Did you learn on sandstone? Did you epic on granite? I could not imagine harboring ill feelings toward any solid, climbable rock.
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dune
Sep 13, 2002, 9:43 PM
Post #38 of 97
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Camhead, your logic is wrong and obviously very few agree with you. If someone raves about granite it doesn't necessarily degrade the quality of everything else. How obtuse are you to think in such terms? You are as rotten as the sand stone cliffs on the shores of California.
Don't show up at the granite crags now Camhead or someone will have to usher you out via the wedgey method.
Love ya
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pushfurther
Sep 13, 2002, 9:56 PM
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i'll take limestone over granite anyday.
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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 10:10 PM
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Hey jhump, in response to your questions:
Yup, I did learn trad on the sandstone of Southern Utah, and yes, I've had a few epics and near epics on granite. I have not yet mastered the art of placing passive gear while pumped, and this is why most of the epics occured.
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rollingstone
Sep 13, 2002, 10:21 PM
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Camhead: I will confess right here, right now, that I, too like sandstone. Every Spring, when I am ready to warm up old muscles that have not climbed outdoors through a Seattle winter, I head straight for Peshashtin Pinnacles for a cute little workout on local sandstone...then when I feel ready for a true workout, I get psyched up for granite or maybe Columbia River basalt ( a demanding mistress). I will even agree that sandstone is better than granite...for landscaping. There is a house near mine that has a gorgeous garden with terraced walls built from the cutest sandstone...
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sully
Sep 13, 2002, 10:39 PM
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I love it ALL!!!
I live in Iowa, and any climbing that I can get is GREAT.
My favorites:
Looking Glass Rock (NC)
Red River Gorge
Vedauwoo (sick, rough granite)
Lumpy
Indian Creek
Zion Canyon Wall
etc.
I may say that I like granite best, but I have never received a full body pump like I did climbing at Indian Creek. That is some seriously physical climbing. Camhead has a point.
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micronut
Sep 13, 2002, 10:49 PM
Post #43 of 97
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In the alpine arena, there is not better rock type. Go do some rock routes in the Canadian Rockies,and you'll soon be wishing and daydreaming of clean Sierra granite. You'll proabally pack up and head straight to the Bugs. All the premire alpine areas (or most) are granite. And how could anyone, anywhere dis the Needles of the southern Sierra? Sure, for cutting edge sport routes, Ceuse type limestone is proabally better, but I'm not Sharma or Grahm, so......
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cyberclimber
Sep 13, 2002, 10:58 PM
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Hey Paul, as soon as I saw this thread, I knew it had to be you. I thought by now you would be in love with the Top Rope route, after all, it's only a 5.11 face climb
Some of these days I will take you to Robbers Cave, great hard sandstone with an ironite covering, sharp edged cracks and huecos,,,yummy. Nothing over 40 ft, nothing over 5.12, no sport and little trad however, sorry, but it is still a fun little place. I have heard of another sandstone bluffline being developed in SE Oklahoma, even closer to you, but details are still sketchy.
I'm sorry you didn't like the Wichitas, but at least it's not that dried mud they call rock like at Moab (that aught to start a fight).
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toobigtoclimb
Sep 14, 2002, 12:08 AM
Post #45 of 97
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Paul,
You should llloooovvvveeeee granite after that nut tweeking fall you took in SLC! Lucky bastard!
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geckobean1
Sep 14, 2002, 12:32 AM
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I agree with nbrown. ANY CLIBMING IS GOOD CLIMBING!
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deafclimber
Sep 14, 2002, 12:44 AM
Post #47 of 97
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i like sandstone over granite. we have boat rock's granite boulders in atlanta. granite eats ur shoes and ur fingers' skins up ! owie ! owie !
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tarzan420
Sep 14, 2002, 1:01 AM
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better than basalt...
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alpinerocket
Sep 14, 2002, 2:59 AM
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I live in Salt Lake City so I have the luxury of haveing gneis, quartzite, granite and limestone vey close. I love it all. All of the rock has its differnt qualities. It is a nice change when you are cranking jugs on quartite and you can go hit some slabs on granite to give your guns a break
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micahmcguire
Sep 14, 2002, 9:22 PM
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not all granite is like the granite at indian creek, smart guy. Archangel Valley, AK for example has tons of great grine, chock-full of surface features, good cracks, and just incredible strength. Not only does alot of granite offer everything you are saying it does not, in many respects it is a much more interesting rock. I dont see much sandstone or limestone that looks quite like it. However, this whole topic borders on absurdity, "you think the color blue is better, well I think red is better." But hey, speaking out against granite, you've got it coming.
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