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petsfed
Dec 10, 2006, 6:26 AM
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Ok, so I've seen so many wide hands to big hands splitters that I'm a little bored with them. Especially since I'm not so good at them. And single width finger splitters are more common than water in the desert. I even know about a lot of good hands corners, but I cannot for the life of me think of any splitters that take mostly good hands. Especially cracks that don't have a stopper offwidth/finger section that either starts the route or guards the anchors.
In other words, I'm looking for the ellusive 5.10 splitter in the creek that isn't wide hands forever. Anyone?
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kricir
Dec 10, 2006, 6:45 AM
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There is this one crack in the creek that accepts nothing but #2’s the whole way. I can’t remember the name of it, but man that hand crack was incredible
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mingleefu
Dec 10, 2006, 7:13 AM
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kricir wrote: There is this one crack in the creek that accepts nothing but #2’s the whole way. I can’t remember the name of it, but man that hand crack was incredible
everyone loves an incredible hand crack.
try supercrack at supercrack buttress or Blue Sun on the Way Rambo wall. Then walk 10 feet to the left or right of either and find another.
sorry I can't help more.
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petsfed
Dec 10, 2006, 8:11 AM
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Thanks guys, I was looking for good hand splitters. Not good hand corners (like Incredible Hand Crack, or Bunny Slope), or wide hand splitters (like Supercrack, or about a dozen others I can think of right off hand).
So please, to reiterate:
1) Splitter, so not in a corner
2) Good hands the whole way, so mostly #2 camalot or #2.5 friend
3) No stopper fingers or offwidth section.
Anyone?
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angry
Dec 10, 2006, 3:28 PM
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Rock Lobster fits the bill except for the last 10 feet.
So does Excuse Station.
Hayduke Lives, but it's got a hard traverse down low.
The best #2 camalot cracks in the desert are your reward after pulling something hard beneath you. Maybe it's a reward.
Generic Crack does fit the bill, but it's all eroded and flared.
(This post was edited by angry on Dec 10, 2006, 3:29 PM)
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camhead
Dec 10, 2006, 3:39 PM
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mingleefu wrote: kricir wrote: There is this one crack in the creek that accepts nothing but #2’s the whole way. I can’t remember the name of it, but man that hand crack was incredible everyone loves an incredible hand crack. try supercrack at supercrack buttress or Blue Sun on the Way Rambo wall. Then walk 10 feet to the left or right of either and find another. sorry I can't help more.
both are a little on the wide side.
I understand your dilemma, petsfed. I can think of NO aesthetic, varnished, non-flaring splitters that are perfect hands from bottom to top. That would just be too easy.
A few that have awesome hands sections after some hard stuff...
Scarface
Deseret Moon
Fatted Calf
Also, Tequila Sunrise in Long Canyon comes to mind as well.
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lemon_boy
Dec 10, 2006, 5:22 PM
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the best splitter hand crack at the creek is actually in the canyon to the north of the creek (hart's draw). it is 180' of #2 camalots with a small roof. excuse station is more like # 1 camalots (but excellent just the same). go my son. seek and you shall find it. you will know when you see it, as the gods shall weep and you shall spackle your shorts.
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petsfed
Dec 10, 2006, 7:58 PM
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Thanks guys, I'll keep those in mind when I head out this spring. Maybe I'll just have to fail upwards through the hard parts to get to the perfect hands.
(This post was edited by petsfed on Dec 10, 2006, 8:03 PM)
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maldaly
Dec 10, 2006, 8:35 PM
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The pillar that makes the Slot Machine on the Reservoir Wall is moving. What used to be Reds in now perfect Golds. What used to be 11+/12- is now probably 10+/11-.
Better get it soon before it widens to Blues. And BTW, don't be hanging out underneath the pillar...It's moving.
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gunkiemike
Dec 11, 2006, 12:03 AM
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maldaly wrote: The pillar that makes the Slot Machine on the Reservoir Wall is moving. What used to be Reds in now perfect Golds.
Or is that just because BD's new Camalots are smaller than the ones they had before. C3s vs C4s I guess the gearheads would say.
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maldaly
Dec 11, 2006, 1:47 AM
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Who said anything about Camalots?
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vegastradguy
Dec 11, 2006, 2:20 AM
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maldaly wrote: Who said anything about Camalots?
*snicker* nice, malcolm....
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petsfed
Dec 11, 2006, 3:54 AM
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gunkiemike wrote: Or is that just because BD's new Camalots are smaller than the ones they had before. C3s vs C4s I guess the gearheads would say.
Except in the sizes in question, there's no difference between old camalots and new camalots (the C4s). C3s, incidentally, are microcams so if I was looking for splitter #2 C3s cracks, which is what? finger locks? then even Rock Lobster would be bad advice for me.
(This post was edited by petsfed on Dec 11, 2006, 3:54 AM)
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nevenneve
Dec 11, 2006, 1:26 PM
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Are you familiar with peyote buttons and the idea of a spirit quest? Good luck, it sounds like a dream moderate.
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schveety
Dec 11, 2006, 8:58 PM
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I haven't done a ton of climbs in IC, but the closest to splitter hands I've been on is Generic Crack, it's flared on the outside, but the jams inside are perfect for mid-size hands. (two small larger pods-not going to kill your groove really) and P.S. excuse station is not bomber hands (and I'm a girl with medium hands) - it's thin hands, but it is fun
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alpine_monk
Dec 13, 2006, 2:28 AM
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try "the joly rancher" at pistol whipped...now how about #2's through changing courners?
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camhead
Dec 14, 2006, 4:40 AM
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both Jolly Rancher and Blue Sun trend towards big-hands/cups. Like so many other splitters. Too bad, like, I think the god who created the Canyon Country must have had sausage paws.
As for #2 in changing corners, Sared Cow has that at its base......
that is before it hits 5.12 enduro ringlocks, though! bwahahahahaha!
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tedclimbr
Dec 21, 2006, 8:39 PM
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Theres a fantastic perfect hands splitter in downtown Prescott, AZ if your into buildering. but really its great
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bandycoot
Dec 21, 2006, 9:05 PM
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I think that there was some pretty good 5.10 #2 C4 splitterocity on the upper pitches of Tricks of the Trade if I remember right. There was the occasional roof, and other features that broke up the monotony though, I think. There is nothing at all like the 800' hand crack that John Middendorf claims in 50 Favorite Climbs. The whole climb doesn't have 800' of hands, let alone that headwall. I'd say closer to 400' of hands here an there. Beautiful climb though!
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microbarn
Dec 21, 2006, 9:59 PM
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I am not known for my jamming, but isn't
5.10 perfect hands
a totally impossible statement? Aren't perfect hands supposed to be 'self belay' holds? If you can self belay from a hold...then it can't be a 5.10 move. If you have a crack that is perfect hands for every hold....then you have a crack that can't be more then 5.6 even if it is perfectly overhung.
Any of the more experienced people agree or disagree?
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camhead
Dec 21, 2006, 10:24 PM
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disagree... it's called endurance ratings, dude... the same reason that a sport climb that is just a series of 5.11 moves can easily range up into 5.12-13 territory.
(This post was edited by camhead on Dec 21, 2006, 10:38 PM)
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alpine_monk
Dec 22, 2006, 1:21 AM
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microbarn wrote: I am not known for my jamming, but isn't 5.10 perfect hands a totally impossible statement? Aren't perfect hands supposed to be 'self belay' holds? If you can self belay from a hold...then it can't be a 5.10 move. If you have a crack that is perfect hands for every hold....then you have a crack that can't be more then 5.6 even if it is perfectly overhung. Any of the more experienced people agree or disagree?
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angry
Dec 22, 2006, 2:16 AM
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microbarn wrote: I am not known for my jamming, but isn't 5.10 perfect hands a totally impossible statement? Aren't perfect hands supposed to be 'self belay' holds? If you can self belay from a hold...then it can't be a 5.10 move. If you have a crack that is perfect hands for every hold....then you have a crack that can't be more then 5.6 even if it is perfectly overhung. Any of the more experienced people agree or disagree?
The vast majority of routes in indian creek are soft. It seems that no-one there is willing to give something a rating of 5.9 or less. Thus, 5.10 can mean everything from 5.7 to 10+. It's a lot better when you get on higher grades, though still sometimes soft.
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jaybro
Dec 22, 2006, 2:30 AM
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bandycoot wrote: I think that there was some pretty good 5.10 #2 C4 splitterocity on the upper pitches of Tricks of the Trade if I remember right.
Yeah, and only a couple of hard moves before that. hehe
How about Neutron Dance?
and if other movespitches below are to be ignored, the 10b hands pitch on Hotline.
Plumbline in Vedauwoo though it's short, is kinda like that.
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timl
Dec 22, 2006, 9:28 AM
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This is a bit off topic, but I hopefully will be heading to Indian Creek for the first time here soon. How big of a rack should I bring? I'll be there for a while and I'm interested in climbing up around 5.12ish. after I get used to sandstone, I'm more of a granite climber. Also, whats the story about taking big falls on gear. Sometimes I heard that its not a good idea and then others have told me not to worry.
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lunabruandabby
Dec 22, 2006, 12:21 PM
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Heart of the desert in Arches?
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valygrl
Dec 22, 2006, 5:32 PM
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Tim, as Angry said, yeah you need a lot of gear. If you are planning on finding partners there, just bring every cam you have, don't go out and buy stuff. I guess it would be good form to have at least doubles of everything, although more is better. Mark all your cams and biners (pink tape is best, ha ha).
You'll be sharing cams with your partners. It's a great place to climb in a group, each person brings all their cams and a rope to the crag, you share gear and leave your rope up for your partners to TR.
If you are bringing your own partner... then what angry said.
It's not uncommon to place up to 10 cams the same size on a climb - but you don't have to own them all.
See ya...
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areyoumydude
Dec 24, 2006, 10:34 AM
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lunabruandabby wrote: Heart of the desert in Arches?
Great climb, but It's not hands and it's not a splitter.
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lonequail
Dec 24, 2006, 5:30 PM
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The upper part of "Deseret Moon" at the Cat Wall is a great hands splitter protected with a bunch of #2 Camalots. The first part of the climb is challenging, but is probably aidable.
The upper part of "Jolly Rancher" at Pistol Whipped also fulfills your criteria. The crux start is moderately difficult fat fingers/tight hands, but it is perfect hands above. There might be some wide hands in spots, but the predominant size is #2 Camalots for a long ways.
Feel free to PM me if you want a gear list.
Have fun.
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sixleggedinsect
Dec 28, 2006, 8:44 AM
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lonequail wrote: The upper part of "Deseret Moon" at the Cat Wall is a great hands splitter protected with a bunch of #2 Camalots. The first part of the climb is challenging, but is probably aidable.
i secodn the vote for desert moon. i havent come close to tapping the creek out, but that last stretch was the best perfect hands ive ever done. the direct flare chimney start is thin and desperate. easier out left with the chossy death blocks. worth it, though.
In reply to: The upper part of "Jolly Rancher" at Pistol Whipped also fulfills your criteria. The crux start is moderately difficult fat fingers/tight hands, but it is perfect hands above. There might be some wide hands in spots, but the predominant size is #2 Camalots for a long ways.
hm. i remember jolly rancher as a #3s crack
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