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lewdsilver
Mar 19, 2007, 11:41 PM
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Yo cracklover gave me a heads up about the trip to north conway - I know I am down and probably my girlfriend. Can bring rope & slings, but don't have any trad gear. Been dying to head back up there since 2 summers ago! 
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epoch
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Mar 20, 2007, 11:12 AM
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robbovius wrote: Wildflower, welcome. Feel free to tag along, there' some nice top-roping to be had at the north end of Cathedral ledge(5.6 to 5.10 variety) , so lead skills aren't definitely required. hey everybody, there's enough people interested in this 420-422 MCT NoCo raid, that perhaps it's best we initiate a roll call, so that we have some idea of who's going and who's not, so that lead-partnering can be most efficiently sorted... so far, I count:
definitely Me Epoch (jay) Jake Gabe (& allison?) Cory Alex Possible Jen rhonius Ben Chad Wildflower & friends (2? 3? total) did I miss anyone? 
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robbovius
Mar 20, 2007, 11:51 AM
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Lookin good.
Gabe, I'm in for friday night at the cabin, though it may be a LATE arrival.
I'm also working on getting my OP Shane to attend, worked on her last night, hopefully she'll make the trip. She's follwed me on some Purgatory Chasm leads here and there, but never been on anything taller than Geryon. I figure teh WH slabs would be a good intro to the TALL stuff.
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epoch
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Mar 20, 2007, 12:57 PM
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robbovius wrote: Lookin good. I'm also working on getting my OP Shane to attend, worked on her last night, I figure teh WH slabs would be a good intro to the TALL stuff.
Gabe, I'd be good for the cabin on Friday too. Though if it is impracticable then I'll loiter in the Wallyworld parking lot or sneak into the NF for the night.
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rhonius
Mar 20, 2007, 1:02 PM
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Depending on the conditions I might be force to split my weekend between climbing and skiing Tuckerman's. Although I might do Tuck's the weekend before and then I can climb both days :)
AAron
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WildFlower
Mar 20, 2007, 1:41 PM
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Can you guys count me in for the cabin too? Or maybe if i can get the info for booking so that i can book something. I've never been in that region with an overnight stay so it'll be nice to at least know where to stay and all...
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Gmburns2000
Mar 20, 2007, 3:28 PM
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Hey folks,
I know a couple of you (slightly), and have been checking the site lately. Is it possible to put my name down for the cabin in NoCo that weekend. I've got gear, can lead but haven't climbed much there (so I don't know the routes other than Into Thin Air and Recompense - btw - is anyone willing to show me how to climb around the damn chimney on pitch #2? It's a bitch to lead and I don't want to almost die like I did last time  ).
Anyway, if you're looking to add people, please add me to the list.
Greg
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core
Mar 20, 2007, 3:51 PM
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Welcome Greg. When you say climb around the chimney, do you mean the Beast Flake variation to the pitch?
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Gmburns2000
Mar 20, 2007, 4:00 PM
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I don't know the name of the variation. All I was told was that I shouldn't climb the chimney. The advice I was given was to stay left of the chimney and eventually cross over it as I get to the ledge below the finger crack. I got up to the top of the first pitch, however, and saw the best line being the chimney itself. I got through it OK, but was so pumped afterward that I popped off on the finger crack.
If you're calling this the "Beast Flake" then I must be blind. I can't imagine missing anything with that name.
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robbovius
Mar 20, 2007, 4:04 PM
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WildFlower wrote: Can you guys count me in for the cabin too? Or maybe if i can get the info for booking so that i can book something. I've never been in that region with an overnight stay so it'll be nice to at least know where to stay and all...
wildflower, North conway is WAY touristy, what with the climbers, ski areas, and general outdoorsy ethic adn all, there's lots of hotels, motels, campsites, etc. google "hotels in north conway, NH" and see what you get.
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WildFlower
Mar 20, 2007, 4:44 PM
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Wait! Quick question: are there only multi-pitch routes out there? Also, Rob, thanks for the info. I'll look it up tonight.
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robbovius
Mar 20, 2007, 6:44 PM
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WildFlower wrote: Wait! Quick question: are there only multi-pitch routes out there? Also, Rob, thanks for the info. I'll look it up tonight.
if you go a page or so back you'll see my answer to that, but I don't mind repeating ;-) :
on the north end of cathedral ledge there a bunch of single-pitch, top-rope-able climbs ranging in grade from 5.6 to 5.10 or so.
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epoch
Moderator
Mar 20, 2007, 7:09 PM
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Don't forget the few bolted lines on Whitehorse as well. I'll look at my guide book when I'm done with class tonight and see if there is anything accomodating for the sport types. Or I'm sure that Jake may know of some......
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jakedatc
Mar 20, 2007, 8:39 PM
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11a and up .. i don't know about much easier than that.. i don't have the book. they aren't top ropeable without a leader. Remember.. WH is a trad area.. there are bolts because there is no pro.. no pro means shit for holds
Jay are you still down for a bolted day 2 ? After sketchy slab and gear plugging it'll be fun to go hang on some jugs and just carry draws
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WildFlower
Mar 20, 2007, 8:57 PM
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robbovius wrote: WildFlower wrote: Wait! Quick question: are there only multi-pitch routes out there? Also, Rob, thanks for the info. I'll look it up tonight. if you go a page or so back you'll see my answer to that, but I don't mind repeating ;-) : on the north end of cathedral ledge there a bunch of single-pitch, top-rope-able climbs ranging in grade from 5.6 to 5.10 or so.
Oh! Sorry, i was so excited to see that there are 5.6-5.10 levels that everything else became a blur at that time ... ;) But thanks for the reminder.
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acherry
Mar 21, 2007, 12:50 PM
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Ugh. I was getting all excited that this NoCo raid is going to happen.... then I remembered I have to go to Santa Barbara for a wedding. 
So Sad! Especially because I won't get to climb a single thing out there!!! 
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robbovius
Mar 21, 2007, 1:06 PM
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Allison, that'z teh suxor.
Wildflower, no probs. it might be worthwhile for you to grab a guide for the area, which would help cluye you in to the routes/grades in north conway. they're pretty common, are you near an REI or EMS store at all?
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core
Mar 21, 2007, 1:15 PM
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Lame.
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acherry
Mar 21, 2007, 1:25 PM
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Trust me, I know.
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WildFlower
Mar 21, 2007, 3:42 PM
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robbovius wrote: Allison, that'z teh suxor. Wildflower, no probs. it might be worthwhile for you to grab a guide for the area, which would help cluye you in to the routes/grades in north conway. they're pretty common, are you near an REI or EMS store at all?
Rob, i'm near REI. I think i'll pick up a guide sometime this week (if my workload will allow me to get there lol) ;) Thanks!
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core
Mar 21, 2007, 4:46 PM
Post #18772 of 22774
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Gmburns2000 wrote: I don't know the name of the variation. All I was told was that I shouldn't climb the chimney. The advice I was given was to stay left of the chimney and eventually cross over it as I get to the ledge below the finger crack. I got up to the top of the first pitch, however, and saw the best line being the chimney itself. I got through it OK, but was so pumped afterward that I popped off on the finger crack. If you're calling this the "Beast Flake" then I must be blind. I can't imagine missing anything with that name.
hehe, I think the "variation" is more popular than the "regular" route. Here's a link from Mark Chauvin's website to help explain:
http://www.chauvinguides.com/recombeastview.htm
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robbovius
Mar 21, 2007, 4:56 PM
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WildFlower wrote: robbovius wrote: Allison, that'z teh suxor. Wildflower, no probs. it might be worthwhile for you to grab a guide for the area, which would help cluye you in to the routes/grades in north conway. they're pretty common, are you near an REI or EMS store at all? Rob, i'm near REI. I think i'll pick up a guide sometime this week (if my workload will allow me to get there lol) ;) Thanks!
groovy, the one you want is about paperback size, but thick. Author's name is Webster, unless I'm having another period of age related memory loss.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 21, 2007, 5:00 PM
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If you're calling this the "Beast Flake" then I must be blind. I can't imagine missing anything with that name.
hehe, I think the "variation" is more popular than the "regular" route. Here's a link from Mark Chauvin's website to help explain:
http://www.chauvinguides.com/recombeastview.htm
Yep, that looks like what I was told. I guess I just didn't see it. If anyone wants to tackle it that weekend, I think I'd be game. But I'll be game for just about anything anyway.
Note: I said just
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core
Mar 21, 2007, 5:51 PM
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You can't really see it from Belay #2, so it's not a surprise that you didn't get all the way over to it. I've climbed Recompense, but not the Beast Flake so I can't say exactly what it is like leaving the belay to gain the flake.
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