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stymingersfink
Jul 6, 2007, 9:10 PM
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So far, the only Ice i've seen has been in my Scotch. It melts quickly, though not as fast as the liquid is consumed.
Summer Solstice has passed, the Dog Days of summer are upon us... soon Old Man Winter will be nipping at that dog's heels.
Run, Old Man, run!
Anyone have any good pics from last season that we ha'n't seen yet?
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builttospill
Jul 7, 2007, 4:10 AM
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Was at the gym today working out the cobwebs. The front desk guy had a nice picture of a guy on a flow in Maple.
Made me miss winter.
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stymingersfink
Jul 7, 2007, 6:13 AM
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builttospill wrote: Was at the gym today working out the cobwebs. The front desk guy had a nice picture of a guy on a flow in Maple. Made me miss winter.
the Swiss Miss soloing on Cobble Cruncher
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builttospill
Jul 7, 2007, 7:44 AM
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summer always reminds me of how terrible a rock climber I am. I hate summer.
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paulraphael
Jul 7, 2007, 7:43 PM
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builttospill wrote: summer always reminds me of how terrible a rock climber I am. I hate summer.
Ha! i know what you mean. luckily my memory is terribe, so I forget how great the ice is until I'm on it again.
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foeslts16
Jul 7, 2007, 8:08 PM
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strangely enough, no ice here in idaho right now. hmmm can't wait for winter in the sawtooths................
iceeee gooodnessssssssssss
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gargrantuan
Jul 7, 2007, 8:30 PM
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i climbed a WI4 pitch last week.
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cologman
Jul 7, 2007, 9:38 PM
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foeslts16 wrote: strangely enough, no ice here in idaho right now. hmmm can't wait for winter in the sawtooths................ iceeee gooodnessssssssssss
I've got to wonder what the N. Face of Borah is like..... Been on that in late summer and found some amazingly fun stuff.
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cologman
Jul 7, 2007, 9:42 PM
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stymingersfink wrote: gargrantuan wrote: i climbed a WI4 pitch last week. we ask for photographic ice porn proof... got any? 
Oops.  now I have dig into the archives as that goes back to the mid 80's.... we'll see.
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foeslts16
Jul 8, 2007, 3:33 AM
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it's been a real bad year for snow here, i heard that cor on borah is pretty much bare.
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gargrantuan
Sep 7, 2007, 5:54 PM
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early season ice in the icefield region should be ready in two or three weeks. i'll keep everyone posted.
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laurelja
Sep 9, 2007, 2:36 AM
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I know where there is ice, last week in Jasper CAnada..east Ridge of Edith Cavell.... spicy and icy...just how I liked it..will tyr to get pic on.
The drips are flowing on the Weeping Wall and the snow was falling on Athabasca and the Icefields when we got there.
ooohooo
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the_climber
Sep 10, 2007, 5:52 PM
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Snow high up in the ghost yesterday and lots of COLD water seaping on the usual lines... it's coming soon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
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stymingersfink
Sep 11, 2007, 12:27 AM
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I'd like to set up a pool with the climbers in the Salt Lake valley, something along the lines of pick the date when snow will be visible on the Wasatch Front from the parking lot at work, 7a.m.
PM me if you're interested in a friendly wager. Say, a sixer of good beer to the winner?
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reno
Sep 13, 2007, 9:37 PM
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Just ordered a couple more Grivel Helix screws for the winter.
Though, I must admit it is difficult to think of ice climbing at the moment: The high temp here in the 9th Circle of Hell (a.k.a. Phoenix) is around 108 today.
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paintrain
Sep 13, 2007, 10:40 PM
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Did the north couloir on Borah a few years back. Really fun (early june) snow/AI climb. Got a little steep at the top, but it was neve and no problem. It is a fun couple K of climbing.
No snow last winter = no alpine ice in summer in these parts. Tetons have been pretty poor as well.
pt
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anykineclimb
Sep 13, 2007, 10:49 PM
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reno wrote: Just ordered a couple more Grivel Helix screws for the winter. Though, I must admit it is difficult to think of ice climbing at the moment: The high temp here in the 9th Circle of Hell (a.k.a. Phoenix) is around 108 today.
Last night's low in Leadville was 31!!!
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the_climber
Sep 13, 2007, 10:55 PM
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Had to scrape the windshield of the truck this morning.... second time this week I've had to do that!
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btreanor
Sep 13, 2007, 11:17 PM
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Thanks for starting this thread (I think)! On the one hand I'm psyched for more ice; on the other hand, its still a bit away and this thread will just make me fixate more and more... Oh, well, I've still got some rock projects to keep me psyched to stay fit.
Pray for lots of wet and lots of cold!
I got three good weeks in Chamonix this summer, so it hasn't been that long (but, still, its been too long).
I hate to bring up a topic that has already seen some traffic, and I don't want to hijack the thread, but what are the opinions about the new Cobras and Vipers? I was thinking of Takoons earlier, but the ability to clip into the spike when running leashless is a big plus (at least for a punter like me).
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builttospill
Sep 13, 2007, 11:44 PM
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stymingersfink wrote: I'd like to set up a pool with the climbers in the Salt Lake valley, something along the lines of pick the date when snow will be visible on the Wasatch Front from the parking lot at work, 7a.m. PM me if you're interested in a friendly wager. Say, a sixer of good beer to the winner?
Where do you work? And what do you have a view of?
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stymingersfink
Sep 14, 2007, 3:19 AM
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builttospill wrote: stymingersfink wrote: I'd like to set up a pool with the climbers in the Salt Lake valley, something along the lines of pick the date when snow will be visible on the Wasatch Front from the parking lot at work, 7a.m. PM me if you're interested in a friendly wager. Say, a sixer of good beer to the winner? Where do you work? And what do you have a view of?
The 7 a.m. thing is to say that if it snows after sunset, it is presumed to have fallen on the date of the following sunrise. It can't melt off before we get to see it. If the clouds lift to reveal a fresh dusting of white stuff at two in the afternoon, then that's the day.
Game on? PM me the date of your choice.
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stymingersfink
Sep 21, 2007, 5:00 AM
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Well, spent a few days in the Sierra highcountry, just east of Tioga. We hiked out yesterday afternoon after awaking to a phenomenal sunrise. The winds had picked up, bringing frozen crystal clouds placing a halo over Mt Conness. Packed up camp, rounded up the dogs and made the two mile hike to the parking lot.
This morning, at the folks cabin near Virginia Lakes, we got to enjoy our morning coffee gazing over a mountain landscape dusted with about an inch of graupel. We brushed off the truck, loaded up the gear and are now approaching Elko.
As an aside, how many of you have driven the I-80 from Reno to Salt Lake? Pretty much B-Fuckin-E, eh? Saw a state trooper on that section of road for the first time in three trips over the past several months. He promptly wrote me a ticket for five over the limit. I was doing 85 in a 75. He thought he was doing me a favor. A section of road regularly traveled at over 90mph by pretty much everyone. MILES from anywhere even remotely close to nowhere.
...and people wonder why I have an intense dislike cops. Go figure.
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wanderlustmd
Sep 21, 2007, 3:39 PM
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I've been there. I was speed trapped once, 25 over and $180 poorer.
I don't have a problem with the cops around here (DC), but most of the cops back home in Maine (where this occurred) are hicks on power trips.
At least most of you have ice to look forward to. The best I can do is crawl across the skating rink in DC in my tools and crampons and pretend I'm climbing.
(This post was edited by wanderlustmd on Sep 21, 2007, 3:39 PM)
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knieveltech
Sep 21, 2007, 4:03 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote: I've been there. I was speed trapped once, 25 over and $180 poorer. I don't have a problem with the cops around here (DC), but most of the cops back home in Maine (where this occurred) are hicks on power trips. At least most of you have ice to look forward to. The best I can do is crawl across the skating rink in DC in my tools and crampons and pretend I'm climbing.
25 over and they only got you for $180? Not bad. Around here that's call for a careless and reckless. My personal record was 145 in a 40. The DMV was kind enough to supply me with a year to ponder the error of my ways, without the burden of a license. Oh well, I was asking for it.
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builttospill
Sep 21, 2007, 5:21 PM
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Yeah, the cops in the DC area can be a little less dick-ish at times.
I had a friend get pulled over when he was 19. 3 friends with open bottles in the car, he had had just a bit (probably not over the legal limit for people over 21, but certainly was for people under 21), going 125 in his VW GTI down the HOV transfer from 495 to 270 north (you know the one if you've ever driven that section of road into Montgomery County).
Obviously would've lost his license (the speed limit is 55 there, and he'd been drinking and had open bottles). They wrote it for 64 in a 55 if I recall correctly. Luckiest kid ever.
He also once hit a parked car with a custom Porsche that was being picked up that day at the Porsche dealership he was working at. Didn't have to pay the deductible, passed the drug test they gave him (don't ask me how), and didn't lose his job, despite wrecking a $60,000+ car. The owner came in later that day from Ohio (drove to Maryland) to pick it up. I have no idea how they explained it to him.
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builttospill
Sep 24, 2007, 6:37 PM
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stymingersfink wrote: I'd like to set up a pool with the climbers in the Salt Lake valley, something along the lines of pick the date when snow will be visible on the Wasatch Front from the parking lot at work, 7a.m. PM me if you're interested in a friendly wager. Say, a sixer of good beer to the winner?
Well, guess there's no sense taking that wager now, is there?
Crazy how chilly it's been this weekend.
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geogoddess
Sep 25, 2007, 1:11 AM
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wanderlustmd wrote: At least most of you have ice to look forward to. The best I can do is crawl across the skating rink in DC in my tools and crampons and pretend I'm climbing. |
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stymingersfink
Sep 25, 2007, 5:29 AM
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for the record, ^she^ was the only one to submit a date.
the hell of it is, she was also 100% correct, though she only offered a 60% chance of being right. Her 100% guess was the 27th.
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paintrain
Sep 28, 2007, 3:03 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: I'd like to set up a pool with the climbers in the Salt Lake valley, something along the lines of pick the date when snow will be visible on the Wasatch Front from the parking lot at work, 7a.m. PM me if you're interested in a friendly wager. Say, a sixer of good beer to the winner?
I saw snow on sunday from 106th south up in thunderbowl.
Anyone take you up on your wager?
PT
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the_climber
Sep 28, 2007, 2:26 PM
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Well, I was picking up some discounted Ice Screws yesterday and spoke with a couple guys who have already been out skiing 3 times this fall... twice in foot and a half deep powder.... Ice is soon to follow!
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stymingersfink
Sep 29, 2007, 6:19 PM
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paintrain wrote: stymingersfink wrote: I'd like to set up a pool with the climbers in the Salt Lake valley, something along the lines of pick the date when snow will be visible on the Wasatch Front from the parking lot at work, 7a.m. PM me if you're interested in a friendly wager. Say, a sixer of good beer to the winner? I saw snow on sunday from 106th south up in thunderbowl. Anyone take you up on your wager? PT
it's currently snowing on the east benches.
YEEE-FUCKING-HAAAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW!!!!!!!!!!!
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geogoddess
Sep 30, 2007, 4:02 PM
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stymingersfink wrote: paintrain wrote: stymingersfink wrote: I'd like to set up a pool with the climbers in the Salt Lake valley, something along the lines of pick the date when snow will be visible on the Wasatch Front from the parking lot at work, 7a.m. PM me if you're interested in a friendly wager. Say, a sixer of good beer to the winner? I saw snow on sunday from 106th south up in thunderbowl. Anyone take you up on your wager? PT just the geogoddess... it's currently snowing on the east benches. YEEE-FUCKING-HAAAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey, that makes ME the lucky winner- ME, baby, ME!!
Maybe I'll change my name to the snow goddess.
Plenty of Sierra Nevada and Red Tail Ale around here.... so you can pay that bet off in whatever Sam Smiths is currently at the liquor store
Winter Welcome Ale would be appropriate
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jmeizis
Nov 6, 2007, 3:20 AM
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Funny thing me and a friend who is from Utah just climbed ice this past weekend in New England. He kept telling me how awesome Utah, no doubt it is, but the ice is climbable here. The photo sucks but give me a bit of credit, it was my first ice climb and I was too busy belaying the partner up hollow ice to take decent pictures. See:http://www.rockclimbing.com/...me_On_Ice_94303.html
(This post was edited by jmeizis on Nov 6, 2007, 3:26 AM)
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jmeizis
Nov 6, 2007, 3:41 PM
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Yeah, it'll be interesting to see whether I become more interested in rock climbing or ice climbing...or the combo.
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the_climber
Nov 6, 2007, 4:18 PM
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Climbed FAT ice last Saturday, 2 to 4+ feet thick. Solid screws the whole way on blue plastic ice.
The approach ice however was thin and SPICEY, adding to the excitement. Gotta love climbing above tied off stubbies, and building belays out of multiple tied off screws and backed up with tools, but hey when I was done that shit was Fucking Truck! What a difference a couple hundred feet elevation makes early season.
(This post was edited by the_climber on Nov 6, 2007, 8:57 PM)
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wannabe
Nov 6, 2007, 7:56 PM
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I climbed thin to sections of fat ice at Licoln on Sat, I'm ready to do it again but I don't think the ice will be any better this weekend.
Vince
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mattb1921
Nov 6, 2007, 8:23 PM
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You are making me so jealous. I keep checking the weather where I climb and the temps are still pretty high. I am hoping to get some ice Thanksgiving weekend up in the Silverton/Ouray area.
Matt
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andypro
Nov 6, 2007, 8:31 PM
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the_climber wrote: but hey when I was done that shit was Truck!
HEY! HEY! The term is FUCKING TRUCK. Lets not dishonor Angrys inability to focus on what he's typing, leading to one of the best phrases ever.
--Andy P
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the_climber
Nov 6, 2007, 9:00 PM
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andypro wrote: the_climber wrote: but hey when I was done that shit was Truck! HEY! HEY! The term is FUCKING TRUCK. Lets not dishonor Angrys inability to focus on what he's typing, leading to one of the best phrases ever. --Andy P
Original post corrected. FWIW we've been using the terms "Truck" and "Fucking Truck" up here in the Great White North since grade school.
(This post was edited by the_climber on Nov 6, 2007, 10:24 PM)
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gunkiemike
Nov 6, 2007, 10:23 PM
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the_climber wrote: andypro wrote: the_climber wrote: but hey when I was done that shit was Truck! HEY! HEY! The term is FUCKING TRUCK. Lets not dishonor Angrys inability to focus on what he's typing, leading to one of the best phrases ever. --Andy P Original post corrected. FWIW we've been using the terms "Truck" and "Fucking Truck" up here in the Great White North since gread school.
"Gread" school? Is that like college grad school except it's post-3rd grade?
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the_climber
Nov 6, 2007, 10:26 PM
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SSSSHhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaddddddddddddd--UP!
Posting at work requires a certain leack of takign the time to use spell check... the cubicals have eyes you know.
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stymingersfink
Nov 6, 2007, 10:50 PM
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jmeizis wrote: Yeah, it'll be interesting to see whether I become more interested in rock climbing or ice climbing...or the combo.
It's a bummer, I know. Heroin would probably be easier to kick, but I just don't have time for that habit too.
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dps
Nov 7, 2007, 4:34 AM
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I've got a few days up in RMNP already this season and will probably get another two to three more in through this week and the weekend.
Boo yeah ice!
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stymingersfink
Nov 7, 2007, 4:40 AM
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AAArgh!
not even a hint of ice around here, other than that stuff still melting in my scotch. Early November, it's still rockclimbing weather around here. Fucking aggravating!
Oh well, my time will come. Until then, at least the scotch is tasty!
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anykineclimb
Nov 7, 2007, 4:37 PM
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Lincoln Falls a couple weeks ago.
Got two days in so far.
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wannabe
Nov 7, 2007, 5:03 PM
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Steve, you climbing this weekend?
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Iceace
Nov 7, 2007, 5:20 PM
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Got my virgin 13 days, 1 hour, 16 minutes ago in Nevada of all places. Now the ice is hard in the San Juans. I'll send a photo to all you jonesers after my return this week. Nice thread D.
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builttospill
Nov 7, 2007, 5:24 PM
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Hey Sty, pretty sure the ice above Aspen Grove in Primrose Cirque is climbable.
It's a bit of a hike, but it's pretty reliable. I probably won't bother this year though, I need to get more rock climbing in to make up for a summer of slacking.
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anykineclimb
Nov 7, 2007, 5:53 PM
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Going to Indian Creek Sunday
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stymingersfink
Nov 8, 2007, 2:20 AM
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builttospill wrote: Hey Sty, pretty sure the ice above Aspen Grove in Primrose Cirque is climbable. It's a bit of a hike, but it's pretty reliable. I probably won't bother this year though, I need to get more rock climbing in to make up for a summer of slacking.
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chedontsurf
Nov 11, 2007, 2:44 AM
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what routes r in @ rmnp right now? I don't think anything's in at the south fork yet.
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chedontsurf
Nov 17, 2007, 7:55 PM
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what the hell? it's like 60 degrees in wyoming today. this blows. I guess u can blame global warming for dry-tooling.
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geogoddess
Nov 19, 2007, 4:42 PM
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I'm starting to explore new mountain biking routes. You know, the ones that usually you pass on, to ride the Big Stuff. I'm that bored.
At least things are dry; when its rainy and muddy you can't do anything at all.
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the_climber
Nov 19, 2007, 5:14 PM
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You need to move North to the land of ICE and snow. Both Ice season and Ski season are in full swing up here!
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geogoddess
Nov 19, 2007, 5:28 PM
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the_climber wrote: You need to move North to the land of ICE and snow. Both Ice season and Ski season are in full swing up here!
Don't tempt me. I've thought about that already, and I would seriously consider moving north to Canada!!
I am on the 3-5 year plan to check that out. As soon as my son is out of elementary school I might pull up the tent stakes and get out of here for a couple years. Eastern Sierras & BC/Alberta are high on my list.
I got massive powder a few yrs ago in the Purcells on a backcountry tour. It was awesome.
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midwestpaul
Nov 19, 2007, 5:29 PM
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chedontsurf wrote: what the hell? it's like 60 degrees in wyoming today. this blows. I guess u can blame global warming for dry-tooling.
highs in the 30s next four days. precipitation. oh baby.
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the_climber
Nov 19, 2007, 6:23 PM
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geogoddess wrote: the_climber wrote: You need to move North to the land of ICE and snow. Both Ice season and Ski season are in full swing up here! Don't tempt me. I've thought about that already, and I would seriously consider moving north to Canada!! I am on the 3-5 year plan to check that out. As soon as my son is out of elementary school I might pull up the tent stakes and get out of here for a couple years. Eastern Sierras & BC/Alberta are high on my list. I got massive powder a few yrs ago in the Purcells on a backcountry tour. It was awesome.
Just do it! Lots of good work up here to! And yes the Purcells have the most bitchin snow around. Some great powder in Alberta too. And hey the best Ice in tthe world is right here.
A friendly tempting
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the_climber
Nov 19, 2007, 11:27 PM
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andypro wrote: the_climber wrote: A friendly tempting Come on...just a little taste. All your friends are doing it. It wont hurt you the first time, you have to be a hardcore Canadian for that to happen. And...as long as you do it standing up, you wont get pregnant! Theres no reason NOT to go... --Andy P  ROFLMFAO!
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geogoddess
Nov 20, 2007, 2:32 AM
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the_climber wrote: andypro wrote: the_climber wrote: A friendly tempting Come on...just a little taste. All your friends are doing it. It wont hurt you the first time, you have to be a hardcore Canadian for that to happen. And...as long as you do it standing up, you wont get pregnant! Theres no reason NOT to go... --Andy P ROFLMFAO!
Please don't mention "pregnant" and "Canada" in the same breath! About eight years ago, my then-husband boinked me on his way out the door to go skiing in Canada. It was such a quickie, I probably WAS standing up! Or bent over. Anyways, we have a (wonderful) 7 yr old boy.
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stymingersfink
Nov 25, 2007, 4:02 AM
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Well, Provo Canyon is finally forming up.
Stairway to Heaven:
P1 is solid, if thin in a few places.
P2 is not quite there yet. The left side may be climbed in thin conditions but you'll need a pin or some smallish cams to protect the last 20' to the ledge system.
P3 is thi-i-i-in.. the first 100' looks way do-able, bring the stubbies. The 20' pillar just before the exit for the pitch appeared to be forming still, though the left side of it appears bonded fairly well. Good screws should be available on the ledge below it, but you still wouldn't wanna blow it.
P4 appears in its usual state... wet, short and steep.
P5 has about 20' to go before the right side pillar touches down, the left about 30' to go.
White Nightmare WI 4
In solid at the bottom, a tad chandeliered and wet in the afternoon, but catch it early for some quality ice. Bring some 13cm screws for the top of P1, 16cm's will go in pretty much everywhere else. It looks like the second pitch would go with some stubbies, but be prepared to tie them off. We did the mixed line just to the right of the first pitch.
Upper Bridal Veil WI4+X
Well, not really, but it's not listed in any book. There's a flow coming off one of the ledges to the right of Upper Bridal Veil that looked doable. The 10cm screws placed ok, the 13cm screws were a tad long. The exit move is pretty spicy right now, though the 16cm screw protecting it probably would have held. Actually, there was only one good screw on the thing... the one at the bottom.
There was plenty of signs of ice instability, as several of the daggers on Upper Bridal Veil collapsed adjacent to us while the lead was underway. MT styled it for his first lead of the season.
Bridal Veil Right WI3+
P1 was in thin conditions, it should take 10&13cm screws pretty well. Catch it early, as it was fairly wet shape by the time we got down to this climb. We passed it up to get on White Nightmare.
MT also reported that the Fang is busy forming right now, though it's got a ways before being in climbing shape.
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paintrain
Nov 25, 2007, 9:58 PM
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Great White Icicle is also forming up.
Checked first pitch yesterday. Thin, but had a single set of tracks up it. The rest of it through binocs looks like it is coming together. A couple more days of cold and it should go without too much excitement if only a little short on P5 (dodge left to tree).
There are still some sizable rocks coming down from the big slide that happened in the spring. Watch your staging area at the bottom. There is evidence of continuing sizable blocks still coming down and some big loosies up above waiting for an excuse.
PT
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stymingersfink
Nov 26, 2007, 3:30 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: White Nightmare WI 4 In solid at the bottom, a tad chandeliered and wet in the afternoon, but catch it early for some quality ice. Bring some 13cm screws for the top of P1, 16cm's will go in pretty much everywhere else. It looks like the second pitch would go with some stubbies, but be prepared to tie them off. We did the mixed line just to the right of the first pitch.
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gargrantuan
Nov 26, 2007, 5:28 PM
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geogoddess wrote: the_climber wrote: andypro wrote: the_climber wrote: A friendly tempting Come on...just a little taste. All your friends are doing it. It wont hurt you the first time, you have to be a hardcore Canadian for that to happen. And...as long as you do it standing up, you wont get pregnant! Theres no reason NOT to go... --Andy P ROFLMFAO! Please don't mention "pregnant" and "Canada" in the same breath! About eight years ago, my then-husband boinked me on his way out the door to go skiing in Canada. It was such a quickie, I probably WAS standing up! Or bent over. Anyways, we have a (wonderful) 7 yr old boy.
come to canada. then we can become BFF and i promise* i won't knock you up.
*i'll pull out in time. i swear.
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geogoddess
Nov 26, 2007, 11:28 PM
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gargrantuan wrote: geogoddess wrote: the_climber wrote: andypro wrote: the_climber wrote: A friendly tempting Come on...just a little taste. All your friends are doing it. It wont hurt you the first time, you have to be a hardcore Canadian for that to happen. And...as long as you do it standing up, you wont get pregnant! Theres no reason NOT to go... --Andy P ROFLMFAO! Please don't mention "pregnant" and "Canada" in the same breath! About eight years ago, my then-husband boinked me on his way out the door to go skiing in Canada. It was such a quickie, I probably WAS standing up! Or bent over. Anyways, we have a (wonderful) 7 yr old boy. come to canada. then we can become BFF and i promise* i won't knock you up. *i'll pull out in time. i swear.
OH REALLY??
That might be how I had the first one, I can't quite remember what went wrong.
So lets say i did come to Canada, where to settle down? Considering I've been recreationally-spoiled, but politically-deprived, living in Utah.
Vancouver (Probably unaffordable)
Some little town in the Rockies (Are there any jobs?)
Calgary (Does it feel like the Plains?)
or...?? Must have realistically affordable housing costs and excellent outdoor recreation (ie considerable vertical relief within view of the front or back porch)
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stymingersfink
Nov 27, 2007, 3:50 AM
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gargrantuan wrote: come to canada. then we can become BFF
Uh, only if you take j-glo* out first.
then me** second.
*you don't have enough arm-y up your sleeve-y.
**if you get through j-glo, i'll have to open a can. Yeah. That's right. ME, baby, ME.
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stymingersfink
Nov 27, 2007, 5:48 PM
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Oh, yeah, I almost forgot.
MT was runnin a little behind schedule, so I took the opportunity to check out the climbs upcanyon of BV and STH.
Miller's thriller looked climbable from the road, as did Finger of Fate (though it'd probably take some serious mixed to get to the dangler near the top of P1)
I'm on the road right now, it's currently snowing in northern utah... hope this shit blows south. I'll be working in Idaho all week, then off to Cali for the weekend to tie up a few loose ends, so no conditions updates for the wasatch by ME for a little bit. Feel free to post up for your area in the meantime.
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geogoddess
Nov 28, 2007, 4:18 AM
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I jsut picked up a copy of Andrew McLean's guide to extreme Wasatch ski tours, "The Chuting Gallery".
I was amused to find The Great White Icicle included, with an S7 A rating (S7 = 60 degree slopes, 'just plain steep as hell'); the "A" denotes Artificial Assistance/Aid, ie, belay, 'rope shenanigans', etc, with the 'allure' of the future possibility that someone, someday, under ideal conditions, might "free" the route and ski it unaided.
But he's a special kind of guy, that Andrew.
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stymingersfink
Nov 28, 2007, 4:52 AM
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geogoddess wrote: I jsut picked up a copy of Andrew McLean's guide to extreme Wasatch ski tours, "The Chuting Gallery". I was amused to find The Great White Icicle included, with an S7 A rating (S7 = 60 degree slopes, 'just plain steep as hell'); the "A" denotes Artificial Assistance/Aid, ie, belay, 'rope shenanigans', etc, with the 'allure' of the future possibility that someone, someday, under ideal conditions, might "free" the route and ski it unaided. But he's a special kind of guy, that Andrew.
Hey... speaking of face shots...
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geogoddess
Nov 28, 2007, 5:14 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: geogoddess wrote: I jsut picked up a copy of Andrew McLean's guide to extreme Wasatch ski tours, "The Chuting Gallery". I was amused to find The Great White Icicle included, with an S7 A rating (S7 = 60 degree slopes, 'just plain steep as hell'); the "A" denotes Artificial Assistance/Aid, ie, belay, 'rope shenanigans', etc, with the 'allure' of the future possibility that someone, someday, under ideal conditions, might "free" the route and ski it unaided. But he's a special kind of guy, that Andrew. WTF are your talking about woman!?! This is the ICE conditions thread... not the snow conditions thread. Everyone already knows we have the greatest snow on earth... with unreal lines... and faceshots galore. Hey... speaking of face shots...
You're a little far away for that kinda talk tonite, sweetie.
Oh.... you mean the fact that its FINALLY snowing? 
(And a PTFTW!!)
(This post was edited by geogoddess on Nov 28, 2007, 5:35 AM)
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geogoddess
Nov 28, 2007, 5:41 PM
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stymingersfink wrote: geogoddess wrote: Oh.... you mean the fact that its FINALLY snowing? When have I EVER given you a face shot?  BTW... if you could do me a favor... take that box of Glenlivet to Kelly down at the BD store... make sure you hand it to him personally..., with my thanks, for everything. ...and thank YOU.
.... (rolls her eyes)
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stymingersfink
Dec 5, 2007, 5:42 PM
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Went up to Great White Icicle yesterday for a quick solo to check out conditions.
It was warm out, the ice was like wet styrofoam, thin and deteriorating in many spots. I was able to pick a relatively safe line for the most part, but if it stays warm for much longer it may transition out of climbing shape.
Over the first four pitches there were many hooking opportunities, but the fifth pitch was almost scary... thin, discontinuous and detached ice made the standard exit dangerously impassable, so I exited the route 6' below the standard topout over some exposed tree roots on the right.
Here's hoping the weather turns cold again
Post up with what you're climbing, you cold-hearted ice fiends.
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altelis
Dec 5, 2007, 7:00 PM
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hey sty (or other salt lickers)-you been up to provo canyon recently? any news?
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stymingersfink
Dec 5, 2007, 7:13 PM
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Unfortunately, I was out of town last weekend, but here
sevrdhed wrote: Bridal veil right and white nightmare a couple of times.
so things must have fattened up a bit since the previous weekend.
FYI, the climbing in Provo Canyon faces north (receives no solar exposure this time of year) and seems to be the primary corridor for all the cold air pooling above Deer Creek Reservoir to flow downhill, not to mention the cool air flowing off the back side of Mt. Timpanogos. Things should be looking pretty good down there, regardless of the mid-high 40's temps in SLC today.
I'll know this weekend if Stairway is in better shape than when I last saw it ten days ago, and will post conditions then. You did see my conditions report a few posts up this thread, right?
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the_climber
Dec 5, 2007, 8:43 PM
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Weekend Plan: Attempt to link up 1000+ meters of ice in three different Canyons in the Ghost, Alberta on Saturday and Touring on Sunday.
FYI Ice in the Ghost is Bomber, Fat, and Blue right now.
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stymingersfink
Dec 6, 2007, 3:16 AM
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You takin a partner and a camera?
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the_climber
Dec 6, 2007, 3:54 PM
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Yes...
but plans' may be slightly adjusted... more people on account that one of my partners needs to get out as his dog was hit by a car and climbing would be good for him.... but then again more people, a second vehicle... Hey! this could work still... Hmmm.... logistics to plan tonight!
(This post was edited by the_climber on Dec 6, 2007, 3:56 PM)
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builttospill
Dec 6, 2007, 5:10 PM
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If anyone does get up into Provo or on GWI in the next couple days, please throw down an update. I live very near Provo Canyon, but by the time I get home from work it's a little dark.
Planning to hit both this weekend. Particularly interested in conditions on GWI since I'm assuming that Provo Canyon is in well.
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mattb1921
Dec 6, 2007, 10:05 PM
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Is anyone up for climbing in Ouray, Wolf Creek Pass or RMNP this weekend? My partners are either working or climbing in Montana. I really want to get out.
Matt
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stymingersfink
Dec 7, 2007, 1:29 AM
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I'm up in Burley ID right now, but I hear a storm's movin in to the SLC area. If overnight lows get to the low 20's or below GWI will be in great shape by this weekend (unless it snows, then it'll be a 50-50 on the top-out), but if it stays warm then I'd rather climb in Provo.
Side note for anyone thinking of getting on GWI: The dagger hanging above the P4 belay has been forming up... I'd have to recommend staying off of it for a bit longer till it bonds better up top
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builttospill
Dec 7, 2007, 2:50 AM
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Not sure what I was thinking. Based on the NWS forecast it looks like both Saturday and Sunday will be fine on both.
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clipinmt
Dec 7, 2007, 5:29 PM
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climbing in provo this weekend? watch the avi conditions.
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builttospill
Dec 8, 2007, 10:25 PM
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A couple of people up in Provo CAnyon today. We climbed Stairway to the bolted boulder belay (not sure if that is commonly considered one pitch or two). Then we ran a lap or two on the bottom tier.
Somewhat slushy, but mostly very good. Bridal veil is in, but it's not as thick looking as in years past.
Not sure about up-canyon climbs, but Stairway was nice. For what it's worth, the avy danger this low is nominal, except perhaps under the huge gully that empties into Bridal Veil. Stairway was quite safe (no snow was present before today, so no underlying issues).
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stymingersfink
Dec 9, 2007, 1:18 AM
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That must have been you I passed in the parking lot. I was the guy with the Shepard.
Those guys climbing when you were there went to the top of the third pitch, having mixed it up the right side corner towards the top of p2. They reported wet conditions, and experienced a pillar settling near the top of P3. Sounds like they're new to the area and getting after it pretty hard.
One of them nearly got brained by a rock at the base of P1 after coming off rappel. He hadn't moved from directly adjacent the base yet, and as his partner moved over the lip he accidentally sent an almost head-sized rock down. It missed the guy by a matter of inches.
Anyway, clipinmt was climbing the mixed lines over near White Nightmare when BVL came crashing down, so they moved over to the schoolroom area.
Conditions for today in Provo? Blizzardy 
It's climbable, but you'd better be pretty solid on WI4+ M5 if you're planning on getting anything above the first pitch.
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builttospill
Dec 10, 2007, 12:43 AM
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hey, yeah, that was us. Nice looking dog. I've had mine out a couple times lately but she isn't an well behaved (an australian shepherd).
That area at the top of the first pitch is dangerous for rocks. It was wet rock on the topout, and I was pretty careful setting up the belay to avoid pushing rocks around.
Hopefully the ice'll stick around for awhile. I wont' be out next weekend at all.
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clipinmt
Dec 12, 2007, 2:25 AM
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6 dgrees right now at home, provo should be alot better than the soft, detatched, crumbling pile it was over the weekend
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stymingersfink
Dec 12, 2007, 3:23 AM
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just made a quick (2hrs house to house) solo up Great White Icicle. I've seen it in worse shape, but not much worse.
Snow everywhere, the second pitch was pretty much a snow trudge with no axes necessary, p3 was thin but ok, p4 was pretty much crackle-top with 10-15" of snow between it and the ice, the dangler above the belay had fallen off and is working on rebuilding. The top end thinner and wetter than I've seen it in awhile. The alternate top-out through the tree roots is still the only way off it.
Be careful out there if you get on it.
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stymingersfink
Dec 12, 2007, 3:29 AM
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clipinmt wrote: 6 dgrees right now at home
I might be working Saturday... get on something Sunday?
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the_climber
Dec 12, 2007, 4:22 PM
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Well the great link up didnt' happen last weekend as with plans changed as they were there were to many people... that and it had been -30°C overnight, leaving me with tthe task of leading boilerplate ice that no matter what I did just didn't want to grab my pick. Swinging till you have a deep enough hooking placement is tireing and slow. We didi however climb about 300m of ice
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paintrain
Dec 12, 2007, 4:40 PM
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stymingersfink wrote: just made a quick (2hrs house to house) solo up Great White Icicle. I've seen it in worse shape, but not much worse. Snow everywhere, the second pitch was pretty much a snow trudge with no axes necessary, p3 was thin but ok, p4 was pretty much crackle-top with 10-15" of snow between it and the ice, the dangler above the belay had fallen off and is working on rebuilding. The top end thinner and wetter than I've seen it in awhile. The alternate top-out through the tree roots is still the only way off it. Be careful out there if you get on it.
Was going to go up thursday afternoon. Think it will be ripe enough?
PT
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stymingersfink
Dec 12, 2007, 11:58 PM
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paintrain wrote: Was going to go up thursday afternoon. Think it will be ripe enough? PT
...time before I was on it was last week, and then the top was in a little better condition, but not much. This snow sitting on it doesn't help much, but the 35degree days and cold nights will.
I tried to get some of the water flowing through the holes onto the surface on P4, don't know how successful I may have been. It was pretty dark out.
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alpineice
Dec 13, 2007, 5:44 PM
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Checked Malan's Waterfall in Ogden yesterday. P1 is definitely climbable, however, too difficult to protect. Still very thin. P2 is still just a large hanging curtain. Did get some fun "bouldering" in. But, I would recommend to not be up there past 10-11am (as is the general rule of Malan's anyhow). There was some serious rockfall.
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paintrain
Dec 13, 2007, 7:02 PM
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Anyone taken a look up at Willard Falls? It is a fun little romp that hardly anyone talks about.
PT
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paintrain
Dec 14, 2007, 6:54 PM
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GWI last night. 4 and 5 pitch still thin. Top of buldge is thinner than expected.
One set of guys went up and right on the last pitch - pretty bold, but they were solid. The dodge out left is OK.
Might be another week of cold before it is in good shape.
The covering of snow keeps it a little more heads up.
PT
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stymingersfink
Dec 15, 2007, 1:38 AM
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I'm working down in Springville for this week, and since it's just a skip and a jump down the road to Santaquin I decided to check the conditions today after work. Things are starting to look pretty good there so far... my assessment through the binoculars from the Forest Circus road follows:
Candlestick WI6+
The pillar is BARELY touching down, maybe 6" girth at its contact point, the top is thinner than usual, which really isn't saying much. Potential death-cicle, as the top appears pretty well bonded underneath the lip, but if it went you'd definitely go for a ride in a hearse. I'd climb it tomorrow, if my only other option was to eat a bullet.
Automatic Control Theory WI5 M7
The bulk of the climb is in, the only thing missing is the pillar. About 6' of dagger is hanging over the lip of the cave. If one were to follow the M7 line to the edge of the right side curtain it'd probably go, though above the lip the ice there appears barely suitable for stubbies. It would be easy to work left to the main upper P2 of ACT, which would take 16-19cm screws easily.
Angel of Fear WI6+ M7-8 ?
A thirty foot dagger is hanging above the climb, it's reportedly possible to mix up behind where the climb shows up, but I've never seen it done. It's got a ways to go before it's even near climbing shape, IMHO.
Squash Head WI3+
The initial curtain is nearly formed, a finger approximately 4" in diameter has touched down. If you're going to get on it, better be gentle else your belayer find themselves with a lap full of dagger.
BackOff WI4
This climb appeared fully formed, if thin in a few spots. I was not able to see the bottom 1/3 of the climb, but with as much ice as the top has, it's gotta be all the way in. The ice appeared thin, probably no screws longer than 16cm if that. Bring a mix of short to medium screws.
Access to Santaquin canyon is the standard 4WD or snow machine. The road was packed down pretty well, but still slippery in a few spots. Don't get jiggy with it, else you'll be calling for a tow.
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Dec 19, 2007, 1:54 AM)
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stymingersfink
Dec 16, 2007, 5:26 AM
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Provo Canyon has improved significantly over last week. Stariway in to 6, much of Bridalveil area is looking sweet, and many of the climbs up-canyon are in climbable shape as well.
The cold weather over the past few days has really been doing us some good.
GET ON IT NOW!!!
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triassic
Dec 17, 2007, 8:52 PM
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Joe's Valley as of 12/16/2007.
Primadonna Not in yet
Spear of Fear barely getting started.
Deadbolt Probably doable, the curtain pitch is more of a column on the left side.
Melty Way Looked pretty good to me, in better than I've usually seen it.
CCC Falls All 3 pitches are in, pitch three felt like a solid WI4.
Donorcicle In all the way up, many climbers were toproping it. Leading it might be a little more exciting.
Looks like a good year for Joe's is on its way.
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stymingersfink
Dec 17, 2007, 11:24 PM
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Thanks for the report... clipinmt has been asking me about that place for some time now, and me with no beta.
Be sure to update the conditions as you become aware of them!
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soccer_fan
Dec 18, 2007, 4:24 PM
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stymingersfink - thanks for the detailed beta!
I've aggregated your info into a site that I'm to get off the ground to collect all the info I can find from forums (with permission) and people to keep a weekly update for ice conditions in Utah.
http://iceclimbingutah.com
(This post was edited by soccer_fan on Dec 20, 2007, 5:57 AM)
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stymingersfink
Dec 24, 2007, 5:35 PM
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soccer_fan wrote: stymingersfink - thanks for the detailed beta! I've aggregated your info into a site that I'm to get off the ground to collect all the info I can find from forums (with permission) and people to keep a weekly update for ice conditions in Utah. http://iceclimbingutah.com
Here's the old website, which years ago used to work fashionably well. http://www.iceclimb.com/
It's beta area for utah is fairly complete, and certainly usable. http://www.iceclimb.com/UT.html Some of the other links over there are hit or miss, but one should certainly check them out... perhaps you'll find a gem or two you may have not found otherwise.
We used to keep the intermountain conditions reports pretty well up to date. The conditions forums however, have gone completely to shit. Look for yourself.
Partly due to the fact that rc.n00b became such a handy place to deal with all things climbing. Partly because it was pretty specific to one aspect of climbing. Perhaps too much so.
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triassic
Dec 25, 2007, 10:55 PM
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Hey Sty, Here's your Xmas present!
Maple Canyon Xmas Eve
Rubber Cup Nausea WI3- In, but in thin conditions, but it's not been this good in years.
Bottomless, Topless WI6 Almost in probably just a few more days
Lemon WI2+ Not in good enough yet
Yellow Rapture and Skidders WI3 Both need a little more ice, but they're getting close!
Running Man WI4 It's in baby!
Box Canyon Routes: The Dagger, Cobble Cruncher, Maple Syrup, Maple Moon, Jesus Wept, Dos Gusanos, Tied off Stubbies All of these were really close to being in, maybe only one or two more days of cold.
Box Canyon Routes: Empire of Dirt WI5/6, Sandbagger WI4, Approach to Dagger WI2 More ice on Empire than I've seen for a decade, Sandbagger- looks good enough it's always thin and scary at the end.
Roadside Couloir WI3 Any day now.
Hooker WI5 Any day now also.
Hog Jowls WI3 Looks scary still.
Chicken Limbo Looks good to me.
Under Wraps Looked like enough ice to send, but I didn't scramble up to the base to see behind the flake.
Suzy Q Not in.
Suicidal Tendencies WI4 Enough ice on it to make you think about it.
Wet Itchies WI4 Did it, as good as last year.
4 pin Variation WI4 Almost.
Bowling Ball Head WI3 Did it, good enough.
Deep Throat Maple WI3 Probably in by today or tomorrow, its that close.
Sir Mixalot WI6 If you're sending WI6, it will turn your head as it's probably as good as it's going to get.
Get Whacked WI5 Sent it and then did a few laps on it. Screws for the first half and then two bolts on the left side and two on the right side and then more screws.
Brittle Stiffie My favorite climb in Maple and didn't go look at it well enough. The first pitch looked in, but couldn't tell about the other two.
I didn't check out further up Left Fork, but would guess that the first two pitches of Chutes and Ladders are in.
I didn't check out the climbs in the campground.
I didn't check out Frankenchrist, but would guess not quite yet. I also have no idea about the stuff by The Pipedream Area.
Did what is probably the FA of the thin ice between Get Whacked and Sir Mixalot. Seemed a lot harder than Get Whacked and way scarier. Scratch your way up to the roof and clip two bolts of the summer sport climb, you may have to dry tool and use your hands, but once you're at the roof it's all ice. You can still clip two more bolts to the left of the ice flow and then it's all stubbies until the end. Get on it early as it starts to delaminate from the wall after 1 or 2pm. I wouldn't want to test out any of the screws and it's continuous until the end. Once you pull over the final steep part, there's anchors to the left. You can continue to the top of the cliff, but it's easy and a lot of rock and ice and another 100+ feet.
I'm calling it The Final Frontier WI6 R
It looks like a killer year for Maple with all the snow! I had to walk from the very start of the canyon with all the snow on the road, but didn't need snow shoes. You would want snowshoes for The Right Fork however.
Have Fun!
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stymingersfink
Dec 26, 2007, 1:12 AM
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Thanks, Triassic... that's just the fix i needed. We need to talk sometime about those ho's' in P.C.
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stymingersfink
Dec 27, 2007, 11:07 PM
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For those of you who like to bag the rarities around the Wasatch Front, I've got two words:
It's In!
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builttospill
Dec 27, 2007, 11:41 PM
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If the conditions of Stairway's first pitch is any indication, it is probably in very good up high. The ice was thick on the first pitch/apron and was nice and plastic this morning.
The bridal veil climbs are a bit more heads up. Rotten and hollow stuff is the norm. Watch for lots of snow on ledges and top-outs. More snow up there than I've seen just about any time.
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clipinmt
Dec 28, 2007, 10:48 PM
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Stairway is in fat through pitch 6. pitch 7 is where it gets mixed looks like alot of fun. there is even ice beyond that. All the stuff in the BV ampitheater is getting hacked out already, easy hooking.
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stymingersfink
Dec 29, 2007, 11:10 PM
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also, with the exception of The Fang, as of Friday the 28th of Dec, all the pure ice routes east of BV are in... Miller's Thriller, Finger of Fate, PND...
Get busy, people!
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stymingersfink
Dec 30, 2007, 12:15 AM
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oh yeah... here's a pic
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stymingersfink
Dec 30, 2007, 8:45 PM
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oh yeah, i almost forgot... on the north side of provo canyon you'll also find these WI4 rarities:
fear of motion
playmate, icemate
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builttospill
Dec 30, 2007, 11:28 PM
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Watch the avy danger in provo canyon, especially on the upper canyon gully climbs (Miller's, Finger of Fate, etc). We were on Finger of Fate when two guys got avalanched off of Miller's Thriller (or they were in the gully below it). The wind was whipping around pretty good and wind loading a lot of slopes up there, so be careful. Nearly full-on scottish conditions today.
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stymingersfink
Dec 31, 2007, 3:49 AM
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purely conjecture, but I'd be willing to bet Malan's is in Prime Shape right about now...
Anybody got on the top of that thing yet?
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builttospill
Dec 31, 2007, 6:49 AM
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I wouldn't know, truthfully. They walked over to us and out of courtesy told us about it. Just wanted to warn us about the conditions. Millers has a bit more in terms of bowls gathering crap, so it makes sense that it might have happened there, but it was enough to mess with our heads.
We didn't see the slide tracks from down lower, but with the wind and spindrift we didn't see much of anything. They were fine, so I'm assuming it was either very heavy spindrift that freaked them out, or they started a slide in the gully below it but weren't caught.
Scary either way.
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paintrain
Jan 1, 2008, 4:52 PM
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A climber was killed in '96-'97 on one of those up canyon climbs by an avalanche (he was swept off the top of the climb). Be careful.
Looks like the sun is coming out and will probably wreck the south facing stuff.
Keep posting up. No time of late, but I am itching.
I have a buddy who is a flight instructor that flies up provo canyon and around the wasatch area weekly/daily. Let me know what you want scoped and where and I can ask him to look.
PT
PT
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stymingersfink
Jan 2, 2008, 12:23 AM
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ya know, an arial photo of Santaquin Canyon Ice would be pretty cool... thinking especially of Angel of Fear, just east of Automatic Control Theory
historical photo for reference:
Show above l-r is Richochet (truncated dagger), Angel of Fear (massive hanging curtain with daggers attached to rock below it), ACT (massive curtain w/ pillar touching down), Candlestick (looks just like the name implies).
Maybe this warmer weather will fuel the ice growth w/o bringing it down... i hope!
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nieder
Jan 2, 2008, 5:04 PM
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Southern Utah, Cedar City area Ice as of 12-31-07
The Cedarcicle: not touching down (5 feet long)
Camp Creek (Kanarraville): In thick, but very air pocketed
Hidden Haven: all pitches in good
Suicide Flows: thin
Ashdown Gorge:?
Mush for Brains (exit 36 on I-15): dry as a bone
(This post was edited by nieder on Jan 4, 2008, 4:17 AM)
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paintrain
Jan 2, 2008, 6:28 PM
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I'll see what I can get.
PT
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builttospill
Jan 2, 2008, 8:32 PM
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Don't remember what I was saying here. Move along now....
(This post was edited by builttospill on Jan 3, 2008, 4:50 AM)
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stymingersfink
Jan 3, 2008, 3:45 AM
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Will she go?
perhaps the first question to answer might be... will the cold temps hold?!?
Looks like a 7 pitch WI5+ M-hard to me... better start rounding up the guns!
edit to add:
In Dave Black's Ice Climbing Utah guide, it's actually listed as Shower Tower, WI5 150', described as two pillars, 60' and 90'. I'm wondering if those upper daggers might be reached by a combination of mixed climbing and perhaps aiding where necessary...
That could be one hell of an extension.
I know just who to call, too.
Swiss Miss PM'd!
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Jan 3, 2008, 3:58 AM)
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dr_feelgood
Jan 3, 2008, 5:31 PM
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Catskills ice.
Just sayin'
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paintrain
Jan 3, 2008, 9:20 PM
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Nein.
I would call this swiss miss.
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stymingersfink
Jan 3, 2008, 11:22 PM
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paintrain wrote: Nein. I would call this swiss miss.
Yep, you got it!
<shameless spray>
that's my pic of her, soloing Cobble Cruncher, BTW
</shameless spray>
I don't know if I coined the phrase in this instance, but it's certainly appropriate.
Unfortunately for the rest of us, she's no longer available... she got married last year.
Fortunately for me, Adam doesn't seem to mind loaning me his rope gun.
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Jan 3, 2008, 11:31 PM)
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paintrain
Jan 3, 2008, 11:46 PM
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She's a lot of fun and talk about horsepower.
She'd be a good one to let loose on that thing.
PT
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stymingersfink
Jan 3, 2008, 11:59 PM
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paintrain wrote: She's a lot of fun and talk about horsepower. She'd be a good one to let loose on that thing. PT
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stymingersfink
Jan 6, 2008, 4:51 AM
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Went to P7 on Stairway today with clipinmt... the ice was wet styrofoam hero-ice for the most part, super fun to cruise up. P6 was an icy wet whore of a mixed line. I wished I hadn't talked MT into getting on it after he'd talked himself into backing off. For the record, from the anchor at the bottom of P7, 70M ropes will put you at the bottom of P5 with rope to spare, 60M ropes might do the same, with rope stretch, IDK.
Temps are cooling, get after it.
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solitudeclimber
Jan 12, 2008, 12:37 AM
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Greetings everyone - I hope the ice season is treating you well.
Any recent updates on any of the UT ice, just wondering if the recent warm weather storms have had a substantial negative impact on the ice:
Malans
LLC - GWI
LLC - Scruffy Band
Santaquin (Squash Head, Back Off)
BVF
Any info anyone has on anything would be very appreciated
Thanks,
J
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paintrain
Jan 12, 2008, 2:44 PM
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I saw a couple of climbers on storm mountain yesterday afternoon.
Was it you?
PT
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stymingersfink
Jan 14, 2008, 2:43 AM
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Na, I went down to Provo Canyon on Saturday intending to solo Stairway if I couldn't find a partner. Well, there was a rather large group from Exum playing on the right side of the apron, an a group of U.U. students playing on the left. I counted 11 TR's at that point.
Well, I pimped around a bit till I found a student who'd not yet been above the apron, but was willing to follow anything that had a rope, so I went to the top of 5 with him in tow. He did pretty well, only fell once near the top of 5 when his tool slipped out his hand. Didn't take 'im too long to get back up to it, luckily it was right at the top so I could see what was going on. lost one of my biners though... a blue petzl Spirit if anyone should happen to find it
Thinking it may have left clipped to an anchor, I took another friend up there today and scrounged around for it, with no luck. She did pretty well, till her crampon came off in the middle of p5. There was a v-thread where a guy bailed from yesterday right at her waist, so I had her clip direct and put the 'pon back on, whereby she scampered right up the rest of the way.
Prophet on a Stick is looking pretty enticing, but I think I may have to hit up Shower Tower next weekend if this weather holds. I've never been there, and I'd love to check it out.
Anybody been to Santaquin this past weekend? How's things looking just east of ACT... Big curtain/dagger hanging off the roof-edge up high, but no pillar showing up just yet?
DK, you gots a maple report?
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Jan 14, 2008, 5:12 AM)
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triassic
Jan 15, 2008, 12:18 AM
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Sorry got no Maple report. I had ankle surgery after Xmas and have been salivating looking at all the new ice in Rock Canyon and then watching it melt away. I should be out again next week. I haven't talked to anyone who's been to Maple either.
Layne from Huntington said a bunch of stuff was in Joe's including Primadonna and Spear of Fear.
Battlecreek (in between Provo and AF)
I did get in one afternoon at Battlecreek and it was awesome as well as a two-pitch route about 100 yards on your right before you get to the falls near a bridge. It was a grade or so harder than Battlecreek. Not sure of its name though, I asked Jim Knight and he said he never did it, but maybe Brian Smoot has.
The first pitch was about 150 feet of ice and about WI4+ and the second about 30 feet of ice and about WI2+.
There were a few more ice climbs further up Battlecreek on your right after the main falls, looked kinda hard.
Good luck sending! Darren.
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bsmoot
Jan 15, 2008, 4:27 AM
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Hi Darren:
I've never climbed at Battle Creek. Thanks for posting up about this area. Perhaps you could post this up on MP...they seem to have a good selection of ice climbs now.
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paintrain
Jan 16, 2008, 7:57 PM
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No go on santaquin aerial shots. Apparently pilots don't like flying into tight dead end canyons.
Climbed scruffy last night. Its in, but thin in spots. Cold as ballz and starting to get brittle.
PT
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builttospill
Jan 16, 2008, 8:13 PM
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Thin in the middle and end rambling sections of Pitch 1? I recall it getting thin at the end of P1, but it ain't much to worry about in my opinion. Those pillars start getting thin, that's a different story although you can always hike off before that or hike around and TR them if one were to feel so inclined.
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brianinslc
Jan 16, 2008, 9:23 PM
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paintrain wrote: Climbed scruffy last night. Its in, but thin in spots. Cold as ballz and starting to get brittle.
Hey, at least if its going to be cold, it might as well be windy too.
I think its commonly thin in zee middle and below the final steep.
Got a funny pic of us from last night and its fairly easy to tell who's feet are thawing out and in the throes of the screaming barfys.
Whoo hoo!
-Brian in SLC
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paintrain
Jan 16, 2008, 9:23 PM
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We did the whole thing in a 70m stretch pitch all the way up the pillar at the end.
The ice at the top was thin (tied off 13cm screw).
The cold had the ice popping and cracking as it contracted last night. Pretty unusual for Utah.
PT
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brianinslc
Jan 16, 2008, 9:26 PM
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Don't forget the open water, too. Common that ice dams bust when the temps plunge.
That makes the evening even funner: f'in' around with wet and frozen ropes on the rappel. Full value.
-Brian in SLC
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clipinmt
Jan 17, 2008, 12:59 AM
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Does anyone know anything about pitch seven on stairway and if there are bolts missing on the roof before you get to the ice?
When I was up there a few weekends ago it seemed like some pro was missing. Duno if something fell off or the climbing gets easier the steeper it gets.
Gear?
MT
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stymingersfink
Jan 17, 2008, 1:16 AM
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MT:
As of Sunday the "missing" ice blobs have fully appeared, making the "missing" bolts a non-issue as far as I can tell. The blobs look big and bomber, they would probably take 19's or 22's even!
I've been trying to round up some draws similar to those hanging on Contrivance, but if something similar cannot be found there's a benefactor willing to throw down some bones to replace the trash hanging there.
Saturday?
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builttospill
Jan 17, 2008, 4:58 PM
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According to utahclimbers.com the major Joe's Valley climbs are all in (spear of fear, melty way, ccc falls, etc).
www.iceclimbingutah.com also states that scruffy band may not be in, but it definitely.
For what it's worth, I attempted to email conditions updates to the email address info@iceclimbingutah.com a couple of days ago and the email got returned as undeliverable.
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paintrain
Jan 17, 2008, 10:22 PM
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I couldn't get an email to go through to iceclimbingutah.com either after numerous tries from different emails.
pt
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soccer_fan
Jan 18, 2008, 2:06 AM
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Hello all, info@iceclimbingutah.com should work now - thanks for the update on that. I've tried to makes sure that I've been citing this thread for all the good info. I'm sorry that the email address was outta commission for a while.
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stymingersfink
Jan 20, 2008, 2:26 AM
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Just went up to hit Creamsickle today with clipinmt.
I will say very few things about it, other than:
1. The pillar is shorter and more difficult than it appears from the road. The approach slabs MIGHT take some 13cm screws, but we solo'd it.
2. I, at one point, was scared (nearly shitless) I would lose my grip and hit the deck. I looped the cord over my fang and holler'd "TAKE ON YELLOW!", then kept a sharp eye on that tool and a firm grip on the other as I fished my leashes out of my coat and put them on one-handed with a little help from my teeth.
3. The pillar is shorter and much more difficult than it appears from the road. Get up on it!
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builttospill
Jan 20, 2008, 7:14 AM
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Sounds pretty scary Sty.
Went to Joe's Valley today. Posted details on utahclimbers.com.
All the climbs we saw were in good shape except Bushdiver (rotten). CCC Falls and Melty Way were both in excellent shape. Heard for others that Highway to Heaven was also. Surprise Party looked good from the road.
I managed to not scare myself at all today. Everything felt really moderate, despite leading harder than I ever have before. I credit the new crampons, but the ratings in Joe's might be a bit soft in the WI4-5 range (probably more like WI4....very steppy).
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stymingersfink
Jan 21, 2008, 4:32 AM
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Went down to maple canyon today...
Went way-back into the Box and got on Golden Plum, which turned out to be the warm-up for the day, aside from the hike in. Beautiful golden-yellow ice, as yet unclimbed for the year I would have to guess, as there were no tracks above Maple Corner Left (which was in climbing condition, first time I've seen it in since being introduced to the place five years ago).
On the hike in, we passed many Maple Canyon rarities in climbing shape. Hickory Smoke was in (last beta available was: bring a bolt kit to replace the single-bolt anchor if you're planning on topping out), Frozen Lizards was tempting, The Dagger was waiting for an ascent, and those with no will to live should visit Jesus Wept. Sandbagger, Tied Off Stubbies, Dos Gusanos... more I didn't even bother to look up in the guide. All the regular stuff was in of course: Cobble Cruncher was ready to go, Maple Moon had a few climbers tooling up for it on the hike out and Maple Syrup had been climbed some time in the past week.
Outside the Box there was Bottomless Topless, which was climbed several weeks ago, most of the road ice was in good shape, and MTP looked primed and ready to go (well, the pillar at least... the upper trough looked a little sun-baked).
The two others in our party had caught some wrinkle-necked brown trout, but needed a suitable place to release them, so we hiked up the road to the confluence of the forks so they could take care of business. I decided I was willing to hike up the trail and check out a climb I'd had my eye on for a couple years. Yeah, it was in... and had been climbed some time in the previous week.
After examining the ice a little closer while the remaining party member made his way to the base, I committed myself mentally to sending it. I geared up while someone else made like a porcupine, prepared myself mentally, then got down to the business of getting up.
They said it only took me 30 min to climb the 140'... to me it seemed like an eternity.
What was it, you ask? Only the most mentally challenging climb I've ever done. Yeah, it's in, and finally tick'd.
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bsmoot
Jan 21, 2008, 6:16 AM
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Sty:
Good job on Creamsickle. Nice to see you guys getting off the beaten path. Sounds like the conditions were thin...kinda like in 1983. Back then, the river crossing was easy. An avalanche had filled up the riverbed...so we just walked across.
More recently (2005 or 2006) I climbed it in thicker conditions. It was actually fun, because we were able to get good screws in. We went back and added some rap anchors. The first pitch always seems thin though...really like the climb.
(This post was edited by bsmoot on Jan 21, 2008, 5:09 PM)
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clipinmt
Jan 21, 2008, 4:41 PM
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sounds like 83 all over again cause that same bridge is there this year.
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jnrose5
Jan 28, 2008, 8:48 PM
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I'm wondering if some of the folks from this forum would consider putting some time and energy into writing up routes and descriptions on one of the websites (rockclimbing.com or mountainproject.com). Both are pretty incomplete as far as Utah Ice goes. As far as I can tell, this forum is pretty much the only place to get decent beta, including the guide books.
That being said, I had my first Utah ice climbing experience this weekend, and I'm amazed at the quantity and quality of ice in the hills. I understand that it's a good year, but this is awesome! Thanks for the helpful posts...
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stymingersfink
Jan 28, 2008, 10:30 PM
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I've been adding routes to MP as I tic them, or add them to my hit list, if they're not already there.
I've found that I like their route data entry process over there better than the one here, so that's where they'll go from here on. Their forums aren't nearly as lively though, so it's not quite a one-stop-shopping experience.
You should be able to find 66 ice routes in their DB so far for Utah. Using the drop-down menu "Show Routes" and selecting "Ice" will give you little red number crumbs to follow. I'm sure there's much left to be entered, but since it seems the courtesy has been to leave un-entered routes for someone who has climbed it to enter into the DB, it still sits incomplete (as if it could ever be "complete").
I'll be doing my best to add to it as I tic them off my list. It's difficult to avoid some of those routes I've been on however, as when things are questionable it seems easier to hit those of some reliability rather than spend a day driving/hiking and come home empty handed. I am employed, afterall.
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paintrain
Jan 28, 2008, 11:15 PM
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Thanks for putting up the info Sty.
I was having a hard time finding stuff on MP, but will follow your directions.
PT
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builttospill
Jan 29, 2008, 5:24 AM
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I've added a few routes to the database at summitpost.org but the mountainproject database is much better.
My issue is more that most of the routes are well-described in Dave Black's book Ice Climbing Utah, so it seems redundant to list them. Now, when it comes to Maple Canyon, mixed stuff, or cutting edge stuff, that might not be true. But for the average guy like me, Dave Black's book is plenty.
That said, Sty....I might be heading to Maple this saturday. Any suggestions for stuff to lead, knowing where I'm at? I'm thinking there ain't much in the way of top-roping there, given the geography, and I'll probably be the main person leading on this particular day. Cobble Cruncher seems logical, but any other suggestions?
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stymingersfink
Jan 29, 2008, 1:52 PM
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in the WI4 range?
When we were up there last weekend Andy was pointing out a few climbs I'd seen before, but haven't been on. One of them might interest you, as it appeared to offer some challenging climbing, and not entirely due to the ice quality/condition.
Hike up the road, past the Box, keeping an eye on your left side for a tight alcove hidden behind a thin veil of trees, about 10' deep and maybe 90' tall with (wi4-ish) ice in the back of it. Reportedly, an anchor may be found on climber's right.
Get on it, then report back with what you find
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wanderlustmd
Jan 29, 2008, 2:14 PM
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Looks like a Utah-based thread, but for those who may be interested, here is pic of Overall Run in the Shenendoah, VA from this past weekend:
Good stuff for round these parts, yessir.
Send us a cold front, Sty.
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paintrain
Jan 29, 2008, 4:40 PM
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Last saturday a good number of WI4 ish climbs on the left side of the road were in directly across from box and on up the road for a ways.
Cobble cruncher was in good shape.
Pt
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carabiner96
Jan 29, 2008, 6:40 PM
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Smuggler's Notch on Easy:
Again, more in the direction of Snotcicle:
pretty damn sweet.
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stymingersfink
Jan 29, 2008, 9:05 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote: Looks like a Utah-based thread, but for those who may be interested, here is pic of Overall Run in the Shenendoah, VA from this past weekend: [image]http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii7/Wanderlustmd/IMG_0187.jpg[/image] Good stuff for round these parts, yessir. Send us a cold front, Sty.
I'd give you a cold-front, I really would, provided it wouldn't short us out here of the next two storm waves expected here in Utah.
Nice pics, wanderlust... you too, 'biner. Those look VERY inviting. Did you guys get on one of them, and if so, how'd you do?
Here's a pic from last weekend.
click the pic for some details on the shot.
in the background you will see Peter V., clipinmt, and Lisa S., while the belayer's name escapes me right
now...
edit to add: clicky the picky should take you to an MP page, where the photo caption and route info can be found.
edit #2 to add: after exchanging emails with the FA Chris Harmston, I have added a separate route to the MP database as 7th Heaven, and another pic from a few minutes later of Scott on the route.
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Jan 31, 2008, 5:02 AM)
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wanderlustmd
Jan 30, 2008, 1:08 PM
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I ticked the central pillar. Felt about WI4. The ice was different than what I was used to back in New England (more gulleys, etc.). Lots of fun.
The chandelier on the left was disintegrating as the day went on, that was probably 5. The major flow on the right went at 4+, according to my friend.
Good times were had.
Your link just opened a new page for the pic, Sty. No info. Do you have the page link?
Good job on the WI6 you talked about above, btw!
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stymingersfink
Feb 13, 2008, 3:02 AM
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Well, today it hit the mid-40's in salt lake, hinting at season's end soon to be knocking at the door.
Well, for this area, at least. I know you guys up in Canada, Eh? are probably going to be enjoing the season longer than I will, but I digress.
The only thing I have to hope for in the meantime, other than cold frosty days, is that we don't get hit by a laser.
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builttospill
Feb 13, 2008, 6:02 PM
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I was going to call you a pessimist until I saw the 15-day forecast at accuweather. I was hoping for another quick cold spell to get two more climbs in.
Won't be happening.....hitting 51 in the valleys in a week or so.
And rain! For the love of god, anything but rain!
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wanderlustmd
Feb 20, 2008, 3:22 PM
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The season is pretty much toast here in virginia. We are in that limbo between rock and ice. I think I'll go aid climbing this weekend....
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stymingersfink
Feb 24, 2008, 5:27 AM
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drove down to maple today, with a slight detour through Santaquin to introduce someone to the approach there as well. The road was rutted snow, though someone got their Honda car as far as the cattle guard (knocking nearly a half-mile off their approach hike), I was completely surprised to see that they made it that far in that little car. Nice work, Jazz (Chas?)
Picked up a party of three on the way in... Shingo, Eric and Nate (Brandon? i met too many new people today to keep everyone straight in my head... sorry!)
anyway, the fog was lying too low to actually see any of the ice there, though a couple of guys got after it (post up, let us know what the ice was like). I drove the party of three back to their car at the end of the clear pavement, then continued on my way towards Maple.
There were a few vehicles in the parking area, temps were warm, so we planned on hitting some of the less-than-vert ice along the road. On the hike in we passed a tight chute that a couple of guys were working on an FA in, Bottomless Topless in pretty wet shape (though fat too) and an untracked entrance to Box Canyon. No point in going in there, we didn't have a death wish, so we got on the three climbs on the south side of the road near the mouth of the Box.
The ice was holding a little snow, underneath was plenty of hero-ice to be found. An old friend who I'd not seen much of in the past 1.5 years showed up, offering tales of 14mos. spent in China, and a pair of the new Cobras to loan.
Now, when I got a chance last month to try out the new Vipers, I discovered that I absolutely hated them. Their feel and swing was just too different from my original Vipers to feel comfortable swinging them on steep ice. Did I mention that I hated those orange Vipers? I swore I would never purchase a pair, and that I probably would never try those new Cobras either, since their Geometry appear so similar.
HOWEVER... after watching Andy swing those Cobras up a nice little WI3, I just couldn't resist asking to borrow them for a route or two. Well, that and the fact that I, in a moment of extreme brain-fartedness, left MY Vipers at the top of their next climb when I rapped off .
Well, I took those Cobras, the ones Andy's response to the question "How you like those tools" was an absolute "I wouldn't climb with anything else", and within three sticks I was stricken in lust. I couldn't fucking believe how nicely they swung, how good they felt, how light they were.... all in all, a complete package as good as (actually better than) my original Vipers. They felt so good to swing I climbed the two adjacent pitches as quickly as I could.
Anyway, I digress... this is about the ice, not the tools.
The ice was plastic/hero ice, last nights snow occasionally cascading off the cliff-tops in magnificent displays of crystal curtains. Though the steep stuff wasn't exactly in a condition to climb, it was certainly worth the drive. It didn't do much for my outlook on the rest of the season around these parts though.
Time perhaps to start thinking about splitter sandstone cracks... Unless we get a cold snap, that is. There's still a bunch of stuff down in Maple I'd like to tic, it's just gotta be relatively safe enough to not be considered suicide to attempt.
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pyramid
Dec 22, 2008, 4:50 PM
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Ice Park in Ouray is horrible, very thin and deep snow on the topouts. Not worth the drive from too far away.
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