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Iceace
Nov 7, 2007, 5:20 PM
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Registered: Feb 20, 2007
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Got my virgin 13 days, 1 hour, 16 minutes ago in Nevada of all places. Now the ice is hard in the San Juans. I'll send a photo to all you jonesers after my return this week. Nice thread D.
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builttospill
Nov 7, 2007, 5:24 PM
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Hey Sty, pretty sure the ice above Aspen Grove in Primrose Cirque is climbable.
It's a bit of a hike, but it's pretty reliable. I probably won't bother this year though, I need to get more rock climbing in to make up for a summer of slacking.
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anykineclimb
Nov 7, 2007, 5:53 PM
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Going to Indian Creek Sunday 
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stymingersfink
Nov 8, 2007, 2:20 AM
Post #54 of 173
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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builttospill wrote: Hey Sty, pretty sure the ice above Aspen Grove in Primrose Cirque is climbable. It's a bit of a hike, but it's pretty reliable. I probably won't bother this year though, I need to get more rock climbing in to make up for a summer of slacking.
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chedontsurf
Nov 11, 2007, 2:44 AM
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what routes r in @ rmnp right now? I don't think anything's in at the south fork yet.
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chedontsurf
Nov 17, 2007, 7:55 PM
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what the hell? it's like 60 degrees in wyoming today. this blows. I guess u can blame global warming for dry-tooling.
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geogoddess
Nov 19, 2007, 4:42 PM
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I'm starting to explore new mountain biking routes. You know, the ones that usually you pass on, to ride the Big Stuff. I'm that bored.
At least things are dry; when its rainy and muddy you can't do anything at all.
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the_climber
Nov 19, 2007, 5:14 PM
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You need to move North to the land of ICE and snow. Both Ice season and Ski season are in full swing up here!
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geogoddess
Nov 19, 2007, 5:28 PM
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the_climber wrote: You need to move North to the land of ICE and snow. Both Ice season and Ski season are in full swing up here!
Don't tempt me. I've thought about that already, and I would seriously consider moving north to Canada!!
I am on the 3-5 year plan to check that out. As soon as my son is out of elementary school I might pull up the tent stakes and get out of here for a couple years. Eastern Sierras & BC/Alberta are high on my list.
I got massive powder a few yrs ago in the Purcells on a backcountry tour. It was awesome.
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midwestpaul
Nov 19, 2007, 5:29 PM
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chedontsurf wrote: what the hell? it's like 60 degrees in wyoming today. this blows. I guess u can blame global warming for dry-tooling.
highs in the 30s next four days. precipitation. oh baby.
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the_climber
Nov 19, 2007, 6:23 PM
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geogoddess wrote: the_climber wrote: You need to move North to the land of ICE and snow. Both Ice season and Ski season are in full swing up here! Don't tempt me. I've thought about that already, and I would seriously consider moving north to Canada!! I am on the 3-5 year plan to check that out. As soon as my son is out of elementary school I might pull up the tent stakes and get out of here for a couple years. Eastern Sierras & BC/Alberta are high on my list. I got massive powder a few yrs ago in the Purcells on a backcountry tour. It was awesome.
Just do it! Lots of good work up here to! And yes the Purcells have the most bitchin snow around. Some great powder in Alberta too. And hey the best Ice in tthe world is right here.
A friendly tempting
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the_climber
Nov 19, 2007, 11:27 PM
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andypro wrote: the_climber wrote: A friendly tempting Come on...just a little taste. All your friends are doing it. It wont hurt you the first time, you have to be a hardcore Canadian for that to happen. And...as long as you do it standing up, you wont get pregnant! Theres no reason NOT to go... --Andy P  ROFLMFAO!
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geogoddess
Nov 20, 2007, 2:32 AM
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the_climber wrote: andypro wrote: the_climber wrote: A friendly tempting Come on...just a little taste. All your friends are doing it. It wont hurt you the first time, you have to be a hardcore Canadian for that to happen. And...as long as you do it standing up, you wont get pregnant! Theres no reason NOT to go... --Andy P ROFLMFAO!
Please don't mention "pregnant" and "Canada" in the same breath! About eight years ago, my then-husband boinked me on his way out the door to go skiing in Canada. It was such a quickie, I probably WAS standing up! Or bent over. Anyways, we have a (wonderful) 7 yr old boy. 
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stymingersfink
Nov 25, 2007, 4:02 AM
Post #67 of 173
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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Well, Provo Canyon is finally forming up.
Stairway to Heaven:
P1 is solid, if thin in a few places.
P2 is not quite there yet. The left side may be climbed in thin conditions but you'll need a pin or some smallish cams to protect the last 20' to the ledge system.
P3 is thi-i-i-in.. the first 100' looks way do-able, bring the stubbies. The 20' pillar just before the exit for the pitch appeared to be forming still, though the left side of it appears bonded fairly well. Good screws should be available on the ledge below it, but you still wouldn't wanna blow it.
P4 appears in its usual state... wet, short and steep.
P5 has about 20' to go before the right side pillar touches down, the left about 30' to go.
White Nightmare WI 4
In solid at the bottom, a tad chandeliered and wet in the afternoon, but catch it early for some quality ice. Bring some 13cm screws for the top of P1, 16cm's will go in pretty much everywhere else. It looks like the second pitch would go with some stubbies, but be prepared to tie them off. We did the mixed line just to the right of the first pitch.
Upper Bridal Veil WI4+X
Well, not really, but it's not listed in any book. There's a flow coming off one of the ledges to the right of Upper Bridal Veil that looked doable. The 10cm screws placed ok, the 13cm screws were a tad long. The exit move is pretty spicy right now, though the 16cm screw protecting it probably would have held. Actually, there was only one good screw on the thing... the one at the bottom.
There was plenty of signs of ice instability, as several of the daggers on Upper Bridal Veil collapsed adjacent to us while the lead was underway. MT styled it for his first lead of the season.
Bridal Veil Right WI3+
P1 was in thin conditions, it should take 10&13cm screws pretty well. Catch it early, as it was fairly wet shape by the time we got down to this climb. We passed it up to get on White Nightmare.
MT also reported that the Fang is busy forming right now, though it's got a ways before being in climbing shape.
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paintrain
Nov 25, 2007, 9:58 PM
Post #68 of 173
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Registered: Feb 17, 2004
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Great White Icicle is also forming up.
Checked first pitch yesterday. Thin, but had a single set of tracks up it. The rest of it through binocs looks like it is coming together. A couple more days of cold and it should go without too much excitement if only a little short on P5 (dodge left to tree).
There are still some sizable rocks coming down from the big slide that happened in the spring. Watch your staging area at the bottom. There is evidence of continuing sizable blocks still coming down and some big loosies up above waiting for an excuse.
PT
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stymingersfink
Nov 26, 2007, 3:30 AM
Post #69 of 173
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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stymingersfink wrote: White Nightmare WI 4 In solid at the bottom, a tad chandeliered and wet in the afternoon, but catch it early for some quality ice. Bring some 13cm screws for the top of P1, 16cm's will go in pretty much everywhere else. It looks like the second pitch would go with some stubbies, but be prepared to tie them off. We did the mixed line just to the right of the first pitch.
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gargrantuan
Nov 26, 2007, 5:28 PM
Post #70 of 173
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Registered: Apr 1, 2005
Posts: 182
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geogoddess wrote: the_climber wrote: andypro wrote: the_climber wrote: A friendly tempting Come on...just a little taste. All your friends are doing it. It wont hurt you the first time, you have to be a hardcore Canadian for that to happen. And...as long as you do it standing up, you wont get pregnant! Theres no reason NOT to go... --Andy P ROFLMFAO! Please don't mention "pregnant" and "Canada" in the same breath! About eight years ago, my then-husband boinked me on his way out the door to go skiing in Canada. It was such a quickie, I probably WAS standing up! Or bent over. Anyways, we have a (wonderful) 7 yr old boy.
come to canada. then we can become BFF and i promise* i won't knock you up.
*i'll pull out in time. i swear.
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geogoddess
Nov 26, 2007, 11:28 PM
Post #71 of 173
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Registered: Aug 14, 2007
Posts: 613
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gargrantuan wrote: geogoddess wrote: the_climber wrote: andypro wrote: the_climber wrote: A friendly tempting Come on...just a little taste. All your friends are doing it. It wont hurt you the first time, you have to be a hardcore Canadian for that to happen. And...as long as you do it standing up, you wont get pregnant! Theres no reason NOT to go... --Andy P ROFLMFAO! Please don't mention "pregnant" and "Canada" in the same breath! About eight years ago, my then-husband boinked me on his way out the door to go skiing in Canada. It was such a quickie, I probably WAS standing up! Or bent over. Anyways, we have a (wonderful) 7 yr old boy. come to canada. then we can become BFF and i promise* i won't knock you up. *i'll pull out in time. i swear.
OH REALLY??
That might be how I had the first one, I can't quite remember what went wrong.
So lets say i did come to Canada, where to settle down? Considering I've been recreationally-spoiled, but politically-deprived, living in Utah.
Vancouver (Probably unaffordable)
Some little town in the Rockies (Are there any jobs?)
Calgary (Does it feel like the Plains?)
or...?? Must have realistically affordable housing costs and excellent outdoor recreation (ie considerable vertical relief within view of the front or back porch)
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stymingersfink
Nov 27, 2007, 3:50 AM
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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gargrantuan wrote: come to canada. then we can become BFF
Uh, only if you take j-glo* out first.
then me** second.
*you don't have enough arm-y up your sleeve-y.
**if you get through j-glo, i'll have to open a can. Yeah. That's right. ME, baby, ME.
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stymingersfink
Nov 27, 2007, 5:48 PM
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Oh, yeah, I almost forgot.
MT was runnin a little behind schedule, so I took the opportunity to check out the climbs upcanyon of BV and STH.
Miller's thriller looked climbable from the road, as did Finger of Fate (though it'd probably take some serious mixed to get to the dangler near the top of P1)
I'm on the road right now, it's currently snowing in northern utah... hope this shit blows south. I'll be working in Idaho all week, then off to Cali for the weekend to tie up a few loose ends, so no conditions updates for the wasatch by ME for a little bit. Feel free to post up for your area in the meantime.
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geogoddess
Nov 28, 2007, 4:18 AM
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I jsut picked up a copy of Andrew McLean's guide to extreme Wasatch ski tours, "The Chuting Gallery".
I was amused to find The Great White Icicle included, with an S7 A rating (S7 = 60 degree slopes, 'just plain steep as hell'); the "A" denotes Artificial Assistance/Aid, ie, belay, 'rope shenanigans', etc, with the 'allure' of the future possibility that someone, someday, under ideal conditions, might "free" the route and ski it unaided.
But he's a special kind of guy, that Andrew.
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stymingersfink
Nov 28, 2007, 4:52 AM
Post #75 of 173
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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geogoddess wrote: I jsut picked up a copy of Andrew McLean's guide to extreme Wasatch ski tours, "The Chuting Gallery". I was amused to find The Great White Icicle included, with an S7 A rating (S7 = 60 degree slopes, 'just plain steep as hell'); the "A" denotes Artificial Assistance/Aid, ie, belay, 'rope shenanigans', etc, with the 'allure' of the future possibility that someone, someday, under ideal conditions, might "free" the route and ski it unaided. But he's a special kind of guy, that Andrew.
Hey... speaking of face shots...
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