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the_leech
Jan 13, 2008, 11:31 PM
Post #51 of 56
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Registered: Feb 8, 2007
Posts: 392
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saxfiend wrote: the_leech wrote: Thanks again for clarifying. You're welcome, wouldn't want you to suffer any further embarassment.
It’s great that we have altruistic folks like you on this board, who take a break from their three years of climbing experience and 5.9 hangdog ascents to set me straight while sticking up for n00bs like rgold.
saxfiend wrote: Nice new sig.
You like it?
Here it is again.
Moron.
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philbox
Moderator
Jan 13, 2008, 11:46 PM
Post #52 of 56
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Registered: Jun 27, 2002
Posts: 13105
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The leech will no longer be able to post in the Lab Forum. It seems he has nothing of value to add to the discussions.
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Tree_wrangler
Jan 14, 2008, 3:38 PM
Post #53 of 56
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Registered: Feb 8, 2007
Posts: 403
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In reply to: Some of the mis-reading betrays lame thinking, as well, which is surprising
Guilty.
But not really that suprising.
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stymingersfink
Jan 16, 2008, 3:21 AM
Post #54 of 56
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
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ja1484 wrote: Per usual, stupidity and bad decisions get people hurt. That's pretty much the way all these stories end.
FTR, EDK is the only knot I two-rope rap with, and that usually when ice climbing (8.1mm cords). An understandably high percentage of that time, they are wet. Dressed properly and snugged down, the 20" tails are way overkill, while the knot is a bitch to untie after a half-dozen or more raps. Hell of a lot easier to untie than any other knot though, and I've never seen less than 18" of tail by the time we get to the ground. Doesn't mean I'd tie it with less than 18" tails though, but that's just me.
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evanwish
Mar 20, 2008, 1:55 PM
Post #55 of 56
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Registered: May 23, 2007
Posts: 1040
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why not use the alpine buterfly?
The test show that it is a slightly stronger knot (although it did have +2 mm stretch over the EDK)
but in the end the buterfly resulted in a 52% loss of stregnth while the EDK lost 65%
Edit:
I continued reading and saw it said the alpine is unsafe because it could be tied wrong
i think that's strange...
http://www.bwrs.org.au/bwr/research/documents/1%20main%20paper.pdf
(This post was edited by evanwish on Mar 20, 2008, 2:00 PM)
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knudenoggin
Mar 24, 2008, 6:34 PM
Post #56 of 56
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Registered: May 6, 2004
Posts: 596
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evanwish wrote: why not use the alpine buterfly? The test show that it is a slightly stronger knot (although it did have +2 mm stretch over the EDK)
Hey, those 2mm are critical! --you could deck ...
or
Because strength is a non-issue; smooth flow over rough surfaces is
more of one, and simplicity and size.
*kN*
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