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Carnage
Aug 22, 2007, 1:36 PM
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Where are the best sport routes in NC
From my research it seems like pilot mtn (although most of em seem to be mixed =/) is the only place with a decent amount of sport routes, most of the other places like crowders, stonemountain, looking glass, all seem to have just a few sport routes but the rest are trad
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acarp
Aug 22, 2007, 1:47 PM
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I've done a few of the sport routes at Pilot, but you're right, it doesn't seem like there is much around. I'm kind of curious of this myself.
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charley
Aug 22, 2007, 4:18 PM
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welcome to nc.
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saxfiend
Aug 22, 2007, 4:27 PM
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Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC
JL
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knieveltech
Aug 22, 2007, 4:30 PM
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Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC From my research it seems like pilot mtn (although most of em seem to be mixed =/) is the only place with a decent amount of sport routes, most of the other places like crowders, stonemountain, looking glass, all seem to have just a few sport routes but the rest are trad
There's also some sport routes over on Sauratown crag. Enjoy the approach! 
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noell
Aug 22, 2007, 4:31 PM
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Sauratown has quite a few sport routes, with a pretty wide range of grades, too. I'd definitely check it out. But, it is pretty sunny up there - really great when it's cold but I can't imagine what it'd be like up there in the summer!
Pilot has some fun sport routes too - primarily in the ampitheater area (Black Rain, Overhanging Hangover, Devil in the Whitehouse, etc.) but it also has a lot of top roping routes. When I lived in NC I totally loved going there to get some climbing in.
Have fun and good luck!
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carolinakinight
Aug 22, 2007, 4:45 PM
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while we're at it - anybody know where the best ice climbing is in mexico?
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Carnage
Aug 22, 2007, 5:31 PM
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so then.....
Who want to teach me to be a sick nasty trad leader??? 
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knieveltech
Aug 22, 2007, 5:47 PM
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mr8615 wrote: carolinakinight wrote: while we're at it - anybody know where the best ice climbing is in mexico? Nice analogy, pretty much sums it up. Wait... aren't most of the routes at Stone Mtn. sport??
I was under the impression that many of the routes at stone feature 20-40 ft runouts between bolts. I'm not sure that qualifies as sport.
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justroberto
Aug 22, 2007, 5:54 PM
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mr8615 wrote: Wait... aren't most of the routes at Stone Mtn. sport??
'Member, climbing isn't permittted at S-Town in the summer. In fact, it doesn't even exist between April and September, my hand to dog. It just plain vanishes into thin air.
You're kind of a haul from Boone, but Warpin's good.
(This post was edited by justroberto on Aug 22, 2007, 9:46 PM)
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knieveltech
Aug 22, 2007, 6:39 PM
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justroberto wrote: mr8615 wrote: Wait... aren't most of the routes at Stone Mtn. sport?? Yup, just like most of those ice climbs down in Tijuana... 'Member, climbing isn't permittted at S-Town in the summer. In fact, it doesn't even exist between April and September, my hand to dog. It just plain vanishes into thin air. You're kind of a haul from Boone, but Warpin's good.
Probably for the best. I suspect it gets rather hot up there during the summer months. For those wishing to simulate the experience strap on a daypack and hike up 50 flights of stairs while wearing three pairs of thermals, then set yourself on fire when you get to the top.
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ja1484
Aug 22, 2007, 6:49 PM
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Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC?
In Kentucky.
Now get a rack or get out of my state 
knieveltech wrote: I was under the impression that many of the routes at stone feature 20-40 ft runouts between bolts. I'm not sure that qualifies as sport.
You damn kids these days. I swear to God.
Stone Mountain is traditional climbing, and almost all the routes there were bolted by hand from the groud UP, not the other way round, because there is No Alternative (j_ung and others familiar with the area will get that pun). This means bolts are found at good stances and crux moves have not a damn thing near them except your exceptional footwork.
20-40 feet at Stone is NOT run out. That is VERY WELL PROTECTED. Run out at Stone means there is no protection between belays, which is VERY common on the longer routes (Grand Funk Railroad, The Pulpit, etc). I forget the name of the route out there where the third pitch belay is a firm stance on top of a large quartz block because there are (and will be) no bolts or gear placements.
Run outs in NC start at 75 feet above your last piece. Anything shorter is just whining.
SACK UP! (and be smart - don't get on something you might regret)
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Aug 22, 2007, 6:56 PM)
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knieveltech
Aug 22, 2007, 7:01 PM
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ja1484 wrote: Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC? In Kentucky. Now get a rack or get out of my state knieveltech wrote: I was under the impression that many of the routes at stone feature 20-40 ft runouts between bolts. I'm not sure that qualifies as sport. You damn kids these days. I swear to God. Stone Mountain is traditional climbing, and almost all the routes there were bolted by hand from the groud UP, not the other way round, because there is No Alternative (j_ung and others familiar with the area will get that pun). This means bolts are found at good stances and crux moves have not a damn thing near them except your exceptional footwork. 20-40 feet at Stone is NOT run out. That is VERY WELL PROTECTED. Run out at Stone means there is no protection between belays, which is VERY common on the longer routes (Grand Funk Railroad, The Pulpit, etc). I forget the name of the route out there where the third pitch belay is a firm stance on top of a large quartz block because there are (and will be) no bolts or gear placements. Run outs in NC start at 75 feet above your last piece. Anything shorter is just whining. SACK UP! (and be smart - don't get on something you might regret)
Yeah, gotta love those granite domes. With all due respect to the FA's (who clearly had balls the size of cantaloupes) fuck a 70' runout. No way am I setting myself up to get cheesegratered by 140' (+ rope stretch) worth of premium NC slab. I'll stick to crack climbing.
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charley
Aug 22, 2007, 7:47 PM
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knieveltech wrote: ja1484 wrote: Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC? In Kentucky. Now get a rack or get out of my state Well, then try access crack @ stone. It's only 5.4 R knieveltech wrote: I was under the impression that many of the routes at stone feature 20-40 ft runouts between bolts. I'm not sure that qualifies as sport. You damn kids these days. I swear to God. Stone Mountain is traditional climbing, and almost all the routes there were bolted by hand from the groud UP, not the other way round, because there is No Alternative (j_ung and others familiar with the area will get that pun). This means bolts are found at good stances and crux moves have not a damn thing near them except your exceptional footwork. 20-40 feet at Stone is NOT run out. That is VERY WELL PROTECTED. Run out at Stone means there is no protection between belays, which is VERY common on the longer routes (Grand Funk Railroad, The Pulpit, etc). I forget the name of the route out there where the third pitch belay is a firm stance on top of a large quartz block because there are (and will be) no bolts or gear placements. Run outs in NC start at 75 feet above your last piece. Anything shorter is just whining. SACK UP! (and be smart - don't get on something you might regret) Yeah, gotta love those granite domes. With all due respect to the FA's (who clearly had balls the size of cantaloupes) fuck a 70' runout. No way am I setting myself up to get cheesegratered by 140' (+ rope stretch) worth of premium NC slab. I'll stick to crack climbing. |
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jsj7051
Aug 23, 2007, 2:28 AM
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What walls are you familar with at Crowders? Red wall and Hidden wall have a good bit and there are more.
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Carnage
Aug 23, 2007, 4:14 PM
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jsj7051 wrote: What walls are you familar with at Crowders? Red wall and Hidden wall have a good bit and there are more.
ive looked it up, never been there. ive check out the website and the sport stuff doesn't really seem to be worth the drive for me.
(This post was edited by Carnage on Aug 23, 2007, 4:14 PM)
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saxfiend
Aug 23, 2007, 4:33 PM
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Heh heh, if you ever want to get a rise out of people, all you have to do is refer to Stone Mountain routes as sport climbing.
ja1484 wrote: Stone Mountain is traditional climbing, and almost all the routes there were bolted by hand from the groud UP, not the other way round, because there is No Alternative (j_ung and others familiar with the area will get that pun).
ja1484 wrote: 20-40 feet at Stone is NOT run out. That is VERY WELL PROTECTED.
JL
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Carnage
Aug 23, 2007, 6:31 PM
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im really not looking to get seriously injured tho, thats why im not really interested in stone mountain. Why would you go to stone, get 70' runout, slip by accident at the 65' mark and have a live changing injury?
call me a wuss, but not worth it in my book. im just looking to have a good time on the weekends, not looking to get my ass scrapped off by some 5.6 slab
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saxfiend
Aug 23, 2007, 8:37 PM
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Carnage wrote: im really not looking to get seriously injured tho, thats why im not really interested in stone mountain. Why would you go to stone, get 70' runout, slip by accident at the 65' mark and have a live changing injury?
I don't know what part of NC you're in, but if you really want to get to some good sport climbing, you should consider Obed in Tennessee. Foster Falls is another excellent sport destination. It'll probably be a long drive, but since there's practically no sport in NC, I'm afraid you don't have much choice.
JL
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jeffkeeton
Aug 23, 2007, 9:09 PM
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People in NC should calm down a little and accept that bolts are the way of the future. 10 years from now everything will be bolted.
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limeydave
Aug 23, 2007, 9:09 PM
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Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC From my research it seems like pilot mtn (although most of em seem to be mixed =/) is the only place with a decent amount of sport routes, most of the other places like crowders, stonemountain, looking glass, all seem to have just a few sport routes but the rest are trad
For a daytrip, Pilot or Sauratown are your best bet in your grade.
The New is 4.5 hours away for a quality weekend of bolt clipping.
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knieveltech
Aug 23, 2007, 9:21 PM
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limeydave wrote: Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC From my research it seems like pilot mtn (although most of em seem to be mixed =/) is the only place with a decent amount of sport routes, most of the other places like crowders, stonemountain, looking glass, all seem to have just a few sport routes but the rest are trad For a daytrip, Pilot or Sauratown are your best bet in your grade. The New is 4.5 hours away for a quality weekend of bolt clipping.
Speaking of the New, me and Gabe a headed up there Labor Day weekend, interested?
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saxfiend
Aug 23, 2007, 11:30 PM
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jeffkeeton wrote: People in NC should calm down a little and accept that bolts are the way of the future. 10 years from now everything will be bolted.
JL
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ja1484
Aug 24, 2007, 12:14 PM
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charley wrote: knieveltech wrote: ja1484 wrote: Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC? In Kentucky. Now get a rack or get out of my state R knieveltech wrote: I was under the impression that many of the routes at stone feature 20-40 ft runouts between bolts. I'm not sure that qualifies as sport. You damn kids these days. I swear to God. Stone Mountain is traditional climbing, and almost all the routes there were bolted by hand from the groud UP, not the other way round, because there is No Alternative (j_ung and others familiar with the area will get that pun). This means bolts are found at good stances and crux moves have not a damn thing near them except your exceptional footwork. 20-40 feet at Stone is NOT run out. That is VERY WELL PROTECTED. Run out at Stone means there is no protection between belays, which is VERY common on the longer routes (Grand Funk Railroad, The Pulpit, etc). I forget the name of the route out there where the third pitch belay is a firm stance on top of a large quartz block because there are (and will be) no bolts or gear placements. Run outs in NC start at 75 feet above your last piece. Anything shorter is just whining. SACK UP! (and be smart - don't get on something you might regret) Yeah, gotta love those granite domes. With all due respect to the FA's (who clearly had balls the size of cantaloupes) fuck a 70' runout. No way am I setting myself up to get cheesegratered by 140' (+ rope stretch) worth of premium NC slab. I'll stick to crack climbing. Well, then try access crack @ stone. It's only 5.4
I don't care what any guidebook says, entrance crack is 3rd class.
Moving on from that, if you're gonna climb in Carolina, you better get good and comfy with both slabs and runouts. And thank God for local ethics. I'm tired of seeing climbing sanitized and neutered for yuppie suburbanites to have a carefree weekend. Thank God there are still places like Stone and Whiteside that have big flashing signs up saying "Don't f*ck. You better mean business before you show up here."
I love the Carolina ethic and wouldn't have it any other way. The climbing here scurrs you too much, move.
And please don't stick to one type of climbing. Specialists aren't climbers.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Aug 24, 2007, 12:19 PM)
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limeydave
Aug 24, 2007, 12:35 PM
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knieveltech wrote: limeydave wrote: Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC From my research it seems like pilot mtn (although most of em seem to be mixed =/) is the only place with a decent amount of sport routes, most of the other places like crowders, stonemountain, looking glass, all seem to have just a few sport routes but the rest are trad For a daytrip, Pilot or Sauratown are your best bet in your grade. The New is 4.5 hours away for a quality weekend of bolt clipping. Speaking of the New, me and Gabe a headed up there Labor Day weekend, interested?
Love to, but I'll be in St Lucia dodging hurricanes - actually I saw Gabe at the VEG earlier in the week and he mentioned it -thanks for the offer though!
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Carnage
Aug 24, 2007, 12:58 PM
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In reply to: Speaking of the New, me and Gabe a headed up there Labor Day weekend, interested?
just got back from a trip to the new actually, all my friends are too poor to go on anymore weekend trips for a while. Thats why im looking into the daytrip options.
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forkliftdaddy
Aug 24, 2007, 1:03 PM
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Moore's -- a few routes in the 12 and up range
Pilot -- a few routes from 7 to 13
Sauratown -- lots of routes in a variety of grades, but winter only
Warpin/The Dump -- a good number of routes
Table Rock -- a handful of routes of various grades
Hawksbill -- a few routes scattered about
Rumbling Bald -- a few routes scattered about, mostly slab
Stone -- 1 sport route, 11d/12a
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thorne
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Aug 24, 2007, 2:29 PM
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Easy there, sport.
The Entrance Crack is every bit a class five climb. The unprotected pitches of Grand Funk, The Pulpit and No Alternative are considerably easier the route's grades. This whole bluster about "run outs in NC start at 75 feet" is just that... Bluster. I've never heard claim Mercury's Lead or the first pitch of Grand Funk are well protected.
To the OP - considering you're current situation, I'd stick with Pilot and Sauratown for now. NC does have some decent sport. It's just spread out and a haul for you.
Morphin Endorphin has a few nice 10s. Since it's up around 4000', it tends to be nice and cool in the Summer.
Crowders has a pretty good selection. Most sport routes get sun until midday, so plan accordingly. It's not a destination crag, but if you're in the area, I recommend it.
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ja1484
Aug 24, 2007, 3:55 PM
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thorne wrote: Easy there, sport. The Entrance Crack is every bit a class five climb. The unprotected pitches of Grand Funk, The Pulpit and No Alternative are considerably easier the route's grades. This whole bluster about "run outs in NC start at 75 feet" is just that... Bluster. I've never heard claim Mercury's Lead or the first pitch of Grand Funk are well protected.
Of course it's bluster. How do you think we scare the gumbies away from the good crags? Realisitically, runouts start more at 35-40 feet.
It's more about the mental aspects than the physical.
And I still disagree with you about entrance crack. That thing is so low angle and wide open, I refuse to believe it's 5th class. I *might* meet you in the middle at 4th.
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CinnamonJohnson
Aug 24, 2007, 4:27 PM
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Morphine Endorphine Wall on 221 has some worthwhile sport routes.
Sauratown is really nice in the winter. Lots of 5.10s and .11s.
Pilot has a handful of good sport climbs. Overhanging Hangover is really good.
The Hidden Wall at Crowders is pretty good, but a long drive from Raleigh.
Rumbling Bald has a good collection of sport climbs, but again far from Raleigh.
Hawksbill has one wall with some really classic sport routes- Line of Fire, Tips Ahoy, Courageous Grace Greenly... Appalachain Spring is mainly sport, maybe a couple pieces of gear.
Moores has great sport, but kinda starts in the upper .12s.
These places are great for day trips. Try to make some friends that you can ride with to the New!
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justroberto
Aug 27, 2007, 3:14 PM
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CinnamonJohnson shoulda had wrote: Warpen Endorphine Wall on 221 has some worthwhile sport routes. |
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rsmillbern
Aug 27, 2007, 3:28 PM
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Carnage wrote: im really not looking to get seriously injured tho, thats why im not really interested in stone mountain. Why would you go to stone, get 70' runout, slip by accident at the 65' mark and have a live changing injury? call me a wuss, but not worth it in my book. im just looking to have a good time on the weekends, not looking to get my ass scrapped off by some 5.6 slab
Once it cools, just a little, I'd make a run to Stone with you, Stone is one of my favorite places. There is some really great climbing there that is not too runout. P1 (and I think P2) of the Pulpit will go with no gear (or very little). There are a few runout climbs, Yardarm is about the worst I've led, but there is plenty that protects well with a light rack.
PM me if you are interested.
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CinnamonJohnson
Aug 27, 2007, 3:46 PM
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I dont think it is the Warpen Endorphin Wall, Roberto. Anybody out there know?
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justroberto
Aug 27, 2007, 10:07 PM
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Warpen
Check the third and fifth replies.
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CinnamonJohnson
Aug 27, 2007, 11:43 PM
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Alright, you win.
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notapplicable
Aug 28, 2007, 1:32 AM
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ja1484 wrote: charley wrote: knieveltech wrote: ja1484 wrote: Carnage wrote: Where are the best sport routes in NC? In Kentucky. Now get a rack or get out of my state R knieveltech wrote: I was under the impression that many of the routes at stone feature 20-40 ft runouts between bolts. I'm not sure that qualifies as sport. You damn kids these days. I swear to God. Stone Mountain is traditional climbing, and almost all the routes there were bolted by hand from the groud UP, not the other way round, because there is No Alternative (j_ung and others familiar with the area will get that pun). This means bolts are found at good stances and crux moves have not a damn thing near them except your exceptional footwork. 20-40 feet at Stone is NOT run out. That is VERY WELL PROTECTED. Run out at Stone means there is no protection between belays, which is VERY common on the longer routes (Grand Funk Railroad, The Pulpit, etc). I forget the name of the route out there where the third pitch belay is a firm stance on top of a large quartz block because there are (and will be) no bolts or gear placements. Run outs in NC start at 75 feet above your last piece. Anything shorter is just whining. SACK UP! (and be smart - don't get on something you might regret) Yeah, gotta love those granite domes. With all due respect to the FA's (who clearly had balls the size of cantaloupes) fuck a 70' runout. No way am I setting myself up to get cheesegratered by 140' (+ rope stretch) worth of premium NC slab. I'll stick to crack climbing. Well, then try access crack @ stone. It's only 5.4 I don't care what any guidebook says, entrance crack is 3rd class. Moving on from that, if you're gonna climb in Carolina, you better get good and comfy with both slabs and runouts. And thank God for local ethics. I'm tired of seeing climbing sanitized and neutered for yuppie suburbanites to have a carefree weekend. Thank God there are still places like Stone and Whiteside that have big flashing signs up saying "Don't f*ck. You better mean business before you show up here." I love the Carolina ethic and wouldn't have it any other way. The climbing here scurrs you too much, move. And please don't stick to one type of climbing. Specialists aren't climbers.
Thankfuly some great folks put alot of time, not to mention money into opening Laurel Knob.
Now we can have fun on an epic scale. Thank you NC, you have been the host of some of my favorite climbing experiences.
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justroberto
Aug 28, 2007, 2:03 PM
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thorne wrote: If you really want to get riled up over mislabeled routes/areas,
It would take a good bit more than that to get me riled up. Just dissemintaing (mis?)information.
In reply to: check out all the Gary Beil routes at Summersville. How would you like to develop a whole wall and then see someone else's route names (for your routes) used in the guide book?
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bigredscowboy
Jan 27, 2008, 10:22 PM
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In reply to: "My hand to dog"?
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justroberto
Jan 30, 2008, 3:01 PM
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bigredscowboy wrote: In reply to: "My hand to dog"? justroberto, what kind of a wanker comment is that?
also, talk to mom. she didn't know you were coming to vegas in april. now she does, and she's none too excited...
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norskagent
Jan 30, 2008, 3:20 PM
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there is a 5.11 corner at ship rock called gorpin engulfin.
also, there is a 5.11 corner along 221 called morphin endorphin.
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bigredscowboy
Jan 30, 2008, 4:06 PM
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In reply to: there is a 5.11 corner along 221 called morphin endorphin.
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norskagent
Jan 30, 2008, 4:15 PM
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yea they are both trad lines.
my intent was to clear up the name confusion.
carry on.
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j_ung
Jan 31, 2008, 2:49 PM
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Morphin Endorphin, Warpen Endorphine, Warpen, The Dump... They're all correct. It's all the same crag. And there are probably more names I haven't heard. (I'm far from an expert on the Boone climbing scene (or any climbing scene for that matter).)
(This post was edited by j_ung on Jan 31, 2008, 2:51 PM)
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bigredscowboy
May 23, 2009, 11:36 PM
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Registered: Jul 30, 2007
Posts: 138
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j_ung wrote: And there are probably more names I haven't heard
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phoenixfire
May 23, 2009, 11:47 PM
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Registered: Feb 13, 2006
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Best sport in NC is at Rumbling Bald...5.10-5.13+. Its too hot to even think about right now though, try it in the winter for some of the best Southeast climbing around.
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