Nov 9, 2007, 5:42 PM
Post #26 of 55
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Re: [texasclimber] Will a woman ever be the best sport climber overall?
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texasclimber wrote:
I agree that they are great climbers. As a sport climber, can they climb 5.15? My definition of "best" is hardest, consistent sport climber. Think Dave Grahm, Chris Sharma. I am not looking to prove my opinion one way or another and I think it is funny how people get so defensive when I didn't even vote yet!
Lynn Hill arguably was in her heyday. She won I forget how many world championships in a row, freed the world's most famous aid line, among other things.
And that's all you're going to get out of a question like this - arguing. Decent troll.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Nov 9, 2007, 5:43 PM)
Nov 9, 2007, 7:45 PM
Post #27 of 55
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Re: [bizarrodrinker] Will a woman ever be the best sport climber overall?
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jt512 wrote:
Well, being women, they already know it's hopeless.
bizarrodrinker wrote:
Yea, too many are pre-occupied with whether they look pretty while they are climbing to worry about being the best.
"Theories" with zero reality to back them up.
I agree with ja1484 with the exception of a one-word substitution: unclever troll....created by a man. Not to mention texasclimber never answered any of sed's questions and without answering them the question is meaningless. Additionally, his wording implies that a man already is the best sport climber, although this is just a circular argument since he never defined any hard, cold parameters of what that means (and I'm not talking about whatever subjective, made-up 'measurements' exist in his personal narrow perception).
well come on, this IS one of the dumbest things ive ever seen, ive seen top roping pregnant (return to sender) and that not bad cause there is no shock load, but i mean come on leading?! but ya you shouldnt pick o him for that!
Nov 11, 2007, 7:32 PM
Post #36 of 55
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Re: [texasclimber] Will a woman ever be the best sport climber overall?
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A woman? Negative. Not unless Sharma gets herpes, Caldwell contracts aids, Andrada is infected with the ebola virus and if Graham loses a leg. Then....maybe.
well come on, this IS one of the dumbest things ive ever seen, ive seen top roping pregnant (return to sender) and that not bad cause there is no shock load, but i mean come on leading?! but ya you shouldnt pick o him for that!
you should read the thread and actually understand what was going on before you open your mouth.. Aimee is a 5.13 climber on a .10a she'd done dozens of times. you think she's going to be falling? Also hehr doctor said it was ok.. so you can stfu too..
ON topic I think there is a select group of women who are on that top tier. but to be climbing the hardest i don't think the numbers are with them. Josune is one of the hardest climbing women out there.. and she's done a fraction of the .14 + routes that dave graham has done...
Nov 12, 2007, 6:18 AM
Post #39 of 55
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Re: [jakedatc] Will a woman ever be the best sport climber overall?
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ON topic I think there is a select group of women who are on that top tier. but to be climbing the hardest i don't think the numbers are with them. Josune is one of the hardest climbing women out there.. and she's done a fraction of the .14 + routes that dave graham has done...
Nice to see someone with an actual opinion in this topic, rather than random rants on whatever they feel like talking about. It has been a while since I have posted here (a couple years) and this place seems filled with more naive "kids" than I remembered. Thanks to those with something interesting to say. For those that say sport climbing is for _______ies, I guess base jumpers could say the same thing about our whole sport or gangsters about paintballers. I guess I am not hardcore enough for those people and as such, you should probably not even post in such a "stupid" topic.
Nov 12, 2007, 1:19 PM
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Re: [yokese] Will a woman ever be the best sport climber overall?
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I am with the one who said Josune...is someone will do it it will be her. Josune Bereziartu was born in Lazkao (Gipuzkoa, Basque Country) on 19 January 1972. She was an active child who was attracted by all type of sports. When she was seventeen, suddenly after watching a documentary in the television, she become interested on sport climbing.
A hole live dedicated to climbing, has turned to Josune in one of the best absolute world-wide climbers of all the times. Her achievements are compared to the one of the masculine top climbers. Here we show its "arguments":
In l998, after climbing the route Honky Tonky, first female climber world-wide to climb an 8c route, Josune became the referent female climber. The General Council of Sports granted her with the bronze distinction.
In 2000, once again, she beated a new record when she climbed Honky Mix 8c+, the first woman in clibming such a difficult route. The General Council of Sports granted her with the bronze distinction.
2002 was the magical year of Josune. She arrived to the top degree: 9a. The route was Bain de Sang, in Switzerland. By this "galactic" achievement the prestigious American magazine Climbing granted her with the Golden Pithon Award to the best activity of world-wide absolute climbing of the year.
In 2004 she equaled her record, this time in Japan, when she climbed Logical Progression, it was her second 9a route.
Josune does not only climb extreme difficulty sport climbing routes, parallelly also practices the alpine modality of big walls. In 2004 she did the first absolute ascent to the route Yeah Man in the Alps. 300 meters of wall and a maximun difficulty of 8b+.
In spring 2005, she decided she was prepared to undertake a difficulty greater than 9a. In 9 of May she rotpunkted Bimbaluna and grazed the maximum limits of the sport climbing when climbing 9a/a+ in Swiss. Her climbs are to the height of the best ones.
In 2006, she became the first woman in chaining onsight a route of 8b+ with Hidrofobia, in Montsant.
Her restlessness in climbing world, go beyond the sport climbing, in winter she entered in the world of the ice climbing, climbing several classic routes of the Pyrenees and in July 2006 climbed what for her and many mountain climbers is a dream: the Walker Spur of the Grandes Jorasses from the Cassin route.
Nov 14, 2007, 2:42 PM
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Re: [tutugirl] Will a woman ever be the best sport climber overall?
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I didn't vote, because the answers are silly. The answer is possibly. There are a handful of women climbers that pushing the upper envelope of difficulty, not just for women, but for climbing. Now, the numbers are against them, just because there are a lot more men pushing that envelope. Generally speaking, men are stronger then women, but the question was whether a women will ever be the top sport climber. The answer is sure, why not. I coach a young team, and there are more stronger girls on it than boys. THe more women that climb, the more chance of it happening. If a few immature boys out there want to proclaim their dominance over women and say it can never happen, then let them. They are just making fools of themselves and it's providing entertainment for the rest of us.
Nov 19, 2007, 5:18 PM
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Re: [rx_7addict] Will a woman ever be the best sport climber overall?
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rx_7addict wrote:
Lynn hill
I agree she is uber string and a great climber. I look up to her a lot, but does/has she climbed 5.15?
Bottom line, there is a reason why men and women sports are seperate. It is simply not a fair comparision due to muscle composition. Although my wife kicks my ass at climbing, for the stongest out there, I think it will always be a man. It would be cool if I was proven wrong though!
Nov 19, 2007, 8:28 PM
Post #46 of 55
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Re: [texasclimber] Will a woman ever be the best sport climber overall?
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No one climbed 5.15 back when she was at the top of her game. The first 5.15 by consensus was in 2001 by Chris Sharma.
She was the first person to free climb the nose of El Cap ~5.13 and came back and did it in a day. She was also the first woman to climb 5.14 back in 1990. She has won over 30 international titles plus numerous other accomplishments.
She was one of the best climbers in the world in my opinion for that period of time and still is an awesome climber.
It's a fact that men are typically stronger then women, but that does not make us better climbers. There is such a thing as technique. I have more respect for a climber who uses technique rather then brute strength to climb a route male or female.
Everyone has there strengths and weaknesses and what they are particularly best at. Sharma is good at the bold dynamic moves. Lynn Hill is great at small crimps and cracks. They both would have trouble doing routes that suites the others style.
Remember she was climbing with shoes and equipment made over 15 years ago. Who's to say she couldn't have put up a 5.15 route.
Nov 19, 2007, 8:37 PM
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Re: [Jbitz] Will a woman ever be the best sport climber overall?
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Jbitz wrote:
No one climbed 5.15 back when she was at the top of her game. The first 5.15 by consensus was in 2001 by Chris Sharma.
She was the first person to free climb the nose of El Cap ~5.13 and came back and did it in a day. She was also the first woman to climb 5.14 back in 1990. She has won over 30 international titles plus numerous other accomplishments.
She was one of the best climbers in the world in my opinion for that period of time and still is an awesome climber.
It's a fact that men are typically stronger then women, but that does not make us better climbers. There is such a thing as technique. I have more respect for a climber who uses technique rather then brute strength to climb a route male or female.
Everyone has there strengths and weaknesses and what they are particularly best at. Sharma is good at the bold dynamic moves. Lynn Hill is great at small crimps and cracks. They both would have trouble doing routes that suites the others style.
Remember she was climbing with shoes and equipment made over 15 years ago. Who's to say she couldn't have put up a 5.15 route.
True, we will never know. IMO, all climbers in the 5.13-5.15 range are a mix on strength and technique. You need both.
Nov 27, 2007, 4:42 PM
Post #48 of 55
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Re: [texasclimber] Will a woman ever be the best sport climber overall?
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One could EASILY have made the argument that lynn hill was the best rock climber in the world at one time.. not very long ago.
I'd put up $1000 and give 2 to 1 odds that sharma would be spit out of the houdini corner like a crying baby over and over and still never get it ..you take that bet and i'll laugh all the way to the bank.
Course questions like this are a bit rediculous as defining best is pretty stupid. Best is by definition a subjective term.
(This post was edited by skiclimb on Nov 27, 2007, 4:55 PM)
Nov 27, 2007, 5:54 PM
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Re: [skiclimb] Will a woman ever be the best sport climber overall?
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A better question is: Will a man who has climbed throughout his life, who recently lost both legs and is now all of 60lbs, be the best sport climber ever? I THINK YES!!
Think about it. He can't toe in, heel hook, or take any real weight off his upper body but he only weighs 60lbs. If he was once a good climber he will now be able to campus just about anything which is really the skill the pros have that us mortals don't. Not only could he be a campusing machine, but he could use his stump as one big smearing device.
With this said, I wouldn't ever exchange legs for being a better climber but I do really believe that a person that fits my above description could in fact be the strongest climber ever. Maybe not the best because they would be limited on slabs and hard vertical faces. But any overhung face they would rule on. This is the kinda stuff that comes from spending too much time in a tent on a road trip.
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