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Bolting to Preserve the rock.
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onceahardman


Dec 3, 2007, 11:07 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Bolting to Preserve the rock. [In reply to]
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It's a noble idea, probably unique to desert sandstone.

My only concern is the placement. It looks to me (and I've never tried it), like I'd want to put my feet on or around that "X" as I came around the end of the roof. It could really spoil things if you take away a potential smear with a bolt placement. Be careful about that.


stymingersfink


Dec 4, 2007, 1:05 AM
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Re: [onceahardman] Bolting to Preserve the rock. [In reply to]
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onceahardman wrote:
It's a noble idea, probably unique to desert sandstone.

My only concern is the placement. It looks to me (and I've never tried it), like I'd want to put my feet on or around that "X" as I came around the end of the roof. It could really spoil things if you take away a potential smear with a bolt placement. Be careful about that.
agreed. One would need to be quite familiar with a route, such that a bolt placed with the intent to preserve the quality of the rock would not interfere with climbing the route, nor would it detract from the aesthetics of the route in question.


Partner camhead


Dec 4, 2007, 1:10 AM
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Re: [onceahardman] Bolting to Preserve the rock. [In reply to]
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onceahardman wrote:
It's a noble idea, probably unique to desert sandstone.

My only concern is the placement. It looks to me (and I've never tried it), like I'd want to put my feet on or around that "X" as I came around the end of the roof. It could really spoil things if you take away a potential smear with a bolt placement. Be careful about that.

for what it's worth, the key foot after doing the roof traverse is a semi-wobbly block down and to the right. everyone uses it, but I'm amazed that it has not broken off yet.

As for the original gist of this thread, I'm not sure about bolting to preserve this route. In a perfect world, nobody would toprope it; just leaders and seconds would climb it, and individual ethics would dictate that you don't do the route unless you are pretty sure you won't fall and rub the rope over the rock. yeah right.

the bottom line is that too many people are climbing at the creek, and the whole place is being worn down. this is sad, but reality.


stickyfingerz


Dec 4, 2007, 2:15 AM
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Re: [camhead] Bolting to Preserve the rock. [In reply to]
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FYI,

Read here about a similar situation where a 2-bolt rap anchor was installed at Cathedral Ledge in order to save an abused tree and prevent cliff erosion.

http://www.neclimbs.com/...dex.php?topic=1423.0

Despite appearing to have the endorsement of the community, the new anchor was chopped in less than a week.

I'm not familiar with the local ethics of the Creek, but remember that it only takes one motivated individual with a crowbar to turn your rock saving bolt into a worse situation than you had to begin with.


stymingersfink


Dec 4, 2007, 2:29 AM
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Re: [stickyfingerz] Bolting to Preserve the rock. [In reply to]
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stickyfingerz wrote:
Despite appearing to have the endorsement of the community, the new anchor was chopped in less than a week.

I'm not familiar with the local ethics of the Creek, but remember that it only takes one motivated individual with a crowbar to turn your rock saving bolt into a worse situation than you had to begin with.
Precisely why I chose to begin a discussion about the ethic, or lack thereof. Though I intended it less for retro-bolters (as doing so is rarely anything less than controversial), more to provoke some forethought for FAist's currently putting up routes in/on delicate/fragile eco-systems.

The only way the route in the example could be retro-bolted with a minimum of controversy, is if the FA went back and performed a little work in the interest of maintenance.

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