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angry
Feb 29, 2008, 8:33 PM
Post #51 of 71
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I climb in PTFTW's
It's not the shoe, it's the donnie
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acorneau
Feb 29, 2008, 9:15 PM
Post #52 of 71
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angry wrote: I climb in PTFTW's
Ok... I'm new around here, so someone please clue me in...
WTF is PTFTW?!?!?
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caughtinside
Feb 29, 2008, 11:37 PM
Post #53 of 71
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acorneau wrote: angry wrote: I climb in PTFTW's Ok... I'm new around here, so someone please clue me in... WTF is PTFTW?!?!?
Check it out on the La Sportiva website.
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evanwish
Mar 3, 2008, 5:06 AM
Post #54 of 71
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acorneau wrote: evanwish wrote: I liked them all, but the 5.10 Pitons are incredible. on any size crack, tips to offwidth they are AMAZING on the hand cracks the extra rubber over the toes locks you in soo securely you could practically stand in the crack all day. Does the toe box run really narrow? I have wide/short feet and have a hard time finding good shoes that don't KILL my pinky and big toes. Thanks.
oh yeah those have really narrow space for the pinki toe...
you could order one in and just try it though... if you get the right fit, you'll love em
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cchas
Mar 13, 2008, 3:13 AM
Post #55 of 71
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For just about all trad climbs I do I use 5.10 mocyssyms. I use them from hard finger cracks to off widths to long cold alpine routes.
For descents I'll often use a pair of reef runners. Light weight, sticky rubber, cheap.
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musicman1586
Mar 13, 2008, 5:02 AM
Post #56 of 71
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Well I skipped most the posts because it looked like it was turning into a moccs vs. mythos debate, and I'll throw in my own subjective opinion on the original question. The trad climbing near me is very peculiar, good, high quality, but peculiar. For one the granite is extremely coarse, big crystals, just rips you to pieces. Also, its all kind on the wider side of things, there's maybe 4 finger cracks in the whole park, of which most the cracks tend to be in the hands to fist size. Also all the trad climbing is single pitch, so a day of climbing consists of 5-10 single pitches or so. I have really narrow feet and small feet as well. That all being said, I have to throw my vote to the Mythos for most of the climbing I do out there. Good for the narrow to wide hand cracks that I generally run into, they can smear well and I find them fine for edging in, just takes a little more work and toe strength. For anything wider my feet are so narrow that I bust out some old school stiff high tops to compensate, but the Mythos have been valuable partners for me for 90% of all the climbing I do, even outside of trad climbing. Recently both my pairs of Mythos have been in need of a resole and I've been using the Anasazi Lace Ups I just got recently, sized to my street size, and not only are they killer performers for sport and bouldering, but their actually really good crack shoes and great for the coarse granite that I climb on. My opinion of slippers? I understand why people like them, and if I was climbing anywhere else I'd probably own some moccs, but the coarse granite out here just grinds in to you too much to make moccs worth it, not to mention that one of their main advantages (thin cracks) we are fresh out of. A good starting point would be a medium stiff, flat-lasted to moderately assymetrical shoe, and then figure out if you want to go stiffer or softer, and more relaxed or more cambered in the fit. Every area is different and every climber is different in their needs.
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dlintz
Mar 13, 2008, 5:23 AM
Post #57 of 71
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caughtinside wrote: acorneau wrote: angry wrote: I climb in PTFTW's Ok... I'm new around here, so someone please clue me in... WTF is PTFTW?!?!? Check it out on the La Sportiva website.
Oddly enough this information can also be found on the Ovaltine website.
Hey mom, more fucking PTFTW please!!
d.
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edl
Mar 13, 2008, 10:27 AM
Post #58 of 71
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Also check out the Red Chili Sausalito. It is slip lasted, but still much stiffer than a Mytho or Mocasym, closer to a board last than anything else. They break in a little, but they are a stiff shoe. I like them in anything from OW to finger cracks less than vertical to overhanging, or smearing and edging. They have a nice flat toe profile and the laces are far enough up to be out of the way. Plus they have a little extra rubber on the top of the toe. If I were to head up a long crack route those would be my shoes of choice. These shoes are right up there with the Kaukulator or Generator IMO.
Also, on really steep thin cracks I have actuallly found that I like my shoes to be tight. I want my toes to lay flat, or even be just very slightly knuckled, and the shoe not to flop around. It works with the same idea of a heel hook: If your heels are floppy in your shoes when you heel hook your shoe separates from your foot and your foot begins to slide off the rock. Smears in cracks in roofs work the same in my experience. If the shoe is too loose your foot comes away from the shoe and your foot twists out of the crack much more easily.
(This post was edited by edl on Mar 13, 2008, 10:33 AM)
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sausalito
Mar 13, 2008, 12:13 PM
Post #59 of 71
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the shoes that are having the most fun.
Seriously I like five ten anasazi lace ups.
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rangerrob
Mar 13, 2008, 11:20 PM
Post #60 of 71
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The best trad shoes are the ones that fit your feet the best and are the cheapest. Any sales person who tells you otherwise is just trying to get you to spend more money. They are all the same, aside from how they lace up.
RR
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stymingersfink
Mar 14, 2008, 2:39 AM
Post #61 of 71
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rangerrob wrote: The best trad shoes are the ones that fit your feet the best and are the cheapest. Any sales person who tells you otherwise is just trying to get you to spend more money. They are all the same, aside from how they lace up. RR
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curt
Mar 14, 2008, 5:47 AM
Post #62 of 71
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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Here are a few suggestions that work for me:
5.10 Gambit
Mad Rock Phoenix
LaSportiva Tradmaster
Scarpa Marathon
These are all fairly new models--although I think the Gambit may have already been discontinued by 5.10.
My favorites, though, are older shoes that I have resoled with 5.10 C4 rubber:
Scarpa LeMenestrals
Scarpa Force
Curt
(This post was edited by curt on Mar 14, 2008, 5:55 AM)
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j_ung
Mar 14, 2008, 11:16 PM
Post #63 of 71
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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caughtinside wrote: acorneau wrote: angry wrote: I climb in PTFTW's Ok... I'm new around here, so someone please clue me in... WTF is PTFTW?!?!? Check it out on the La Sportiva website.
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rangerrob
Mar 15, 2008, 8:31 PM
Post #64 of 71
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Sty, you're a sucker if you think otherwise. Unless you're climbing 5.13 sport. You really think a beginner is going to notice the difference in performance between a steep face shoe and a crack shoe? comfort is the Biggest quality to look for. Second to that is price.
RR
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stymingersfink
Mar 21, 2008, 2:44 AM
Post #65 of 71
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Sty wrote: rangerrob wrote: The best trad shoes are the ones that fit your feet the best and are the cheapest. Any sales person who tells you otherwise is just trying to get you to spend more money. They are all the same, aside from how they lace up. RR sorry, wrong answer. rangerrob wrote: Sty, you're a sucker if you think otherwise. Unless you're climbing 5.13 sport. You really think a beginner is going to notice the difference in performance between a steep face shoe and a crack shoe? comfort is the Biggest quality to look for. Second to that is price. RR
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climbingaggie03
Mar 21, 2008, 3:11 AM
Post #66 of 71
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1173
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for trad climbing, I like shoes with a cushioned heel. I climb in 5.10 ascents. I also like the 5.10 piton.
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fearlessclimber
Mar 25, 2008, 6:20 AM
Post #67 of 71
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Registered: Oct 27, 2005
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I have climbed 2000 foot routes in my muira's and felt very comfy, Mythos's are also amazing. And sometimes if my feet are feeling like they need some sensitivity i will wear my anasazi slippers. Make sure you're feet are well conditioned and strong before you do a huge route in those.
None of these shoes are good for aid by the way youll want a board lasted shoe.
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rangerrob
Mar 29, 2008, 4:01 PM
Post #68 of 71
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Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
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I think it is SHUT...as in COLD SHUT. Not SHUNT. Just a little FYI. Wouldn't want you having a social faux pas at the cliff
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jahsh
Apr 8, 2008, 7:39 PM
Post #69 of 71
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Registered: Oct 31, 2006
Posts: 46
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any shoe that lets your toes lie flat (bent toes equal pain) will excell in hand to thin hand sized cracks. slippers sized up work well as do some velcros (like the katana)
i like mad rocks maniacs sized up a half size
but nothing beats Acopa's Spectre for all around performance/comfort
as well as the aztecs (lower profile toe than the spectre makes it slightly better for thinner cracks) and JB's (better for wider stuff)
buy whatever shoe feels the most comfortable, regardless of their intended use.
leroy
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kachoong
Apr 8, 2008, 8:19 PM
Post #70 of 71
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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I'll second a few already mentioned, from either personal experience or recommendation.
Boreal Ace (best all-round granite shoe)
Five Ten Gambit
Mad Rock Frenzy (new lace up)
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wallwombat
Apr 10, 2008, 9:12 AM
Post #71 of 71
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Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 727
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I just scored a pair of Kaukulators on ebay. They are great, particularly on granite. I love em. Brilliant for cracks.
I also have a pair of slightly oversized Scarpa Force that I use. They are excellent but need another resole. I have a pair of Boreal Aces but rarely climb in em anymore.
I have been eying off the Mad Fock Frenzy lace ups but I don't really need and more shoes. I already have 7 pairs.
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