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Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading?
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Poll: Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading?
on a sling 57 / 45%
on my harness 61 / 48%
other 9 / 7%
127 total votes
 

fiferguy


May 8, 2008, 2:08 AM
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For multipitch climbs, I usually put all the hardware on a Metolius sling, the padded part on my left shoulder. From front to back I generally rack nuts, hexes, and cams, and behind those I have several alpine runners and spare biners. Behind those go locking biners and my cordalette. Over the other shoulder I have single length runners draped over my head, my doubles are slung in such a way that I just have to unclip a biner and pull.

I usually put personal stuff on my harness--belay device and locker, rescue prussiks, water bottle, etc.


antiqued


May 8, 2008, 7:44 PM
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Re: [fiferguy] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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What part of "it depends" doesn't everyone get?

Multi pitch, swinging leads - shoulder sling, draws on second shoulder sling - much faster transitions ( a couple draws on the harness under the sling for clips when the second shoulder sling is trapped) if desired, single and double runners over shoulder with draws.

Multi pitch - block leading - as preferred by leader

Friction slab - waist, to clear feet and view of feet - ain't no placements, anyway!

Big honking roof - key gear on waist so it can be reached without shoulder dislocation or lap deposition

Corners and off widths - shoulder sling on free side; draws on free side of harness (free side may switch mid pitch)

Single pitch - however the gear is currently racked, for speed - more climbing, less racking!

Can somebody add what I've missed and post a FAQ?


andrewbanandrew


Jul 10, 2008, 9:39 AM
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Re: [caliclimbergrl] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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harness, because I have yet to encounter a climb that required more than 15 nuts and 8 cams


markc


Jul 10, 2008, 1:59 PM
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Re: [caliclimbergrl] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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I rack protection on my harness (a Misty Mountain with 6 gear loops). I carry slings on a gear sling to reduce the clutter around the waist. It's a lot easier to swing out of the way. I've tried slings over the shoulder, and never really liked it.

I have a friend that prefers gear on the sling and slings on the harness. When we climb together, we'll either lead in blocks to reduce the change-over or I'll adapt his style of racking.


kimsismour


Jul 10, 2008, 5:01 PM
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Re: [markc] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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My Gear goes on the appropriatly named Gear Sling, and I put my draws and slings on my harness. I have my gear sling organized and catagorized with different color biners so when i get into a freak out moment, I can find the size i am looking for faster. Wink


markc


Jul 10, 2008, 5:16 PM
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Re: [kimsismour] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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kimsismour wrote:
My Gear goes on the appropriatly named Gear Sling...

If you want to get picky about it, henceforth my comfy padded sling will be called Sling Sling. Better?


irregularpanda


Jul 10, 2008, 5:19 PM
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Re: [markc] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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markc wrote:
kimsismour wrote:
My Gear goes on the appropriatly named Gear Sling...

If you want to get picky about it, henceforth my comfy padded sling will be called Sling Sling. Better?

I only use the sling sling when the offwidth offwidth comes my way way. Hey hey.

Seriously though though, I hate hate gear in my lap lap. That shit always happens happens.


markc


Jul 10, 2008, 5:27 PM
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Re: [irregularpanda] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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irregularpanda wrote:
markc wrote:
kimsismour wrote:
My Gear goes on the appropriatly named Gear Sling...

If you want to get picky about it, henceforth my comfy padded sling will be called Sling Sling. Better?

I only use the sling sling when the offwidth offwidth comes my way way. Hey hey.

Seriously though though, I hate hate gear in my lap lap. That shit always happens happens.

I hate 10 pounds of gear in my lap. I don't mind 12 - 15 slings which elbow out of the way fairly gracefully. I prefer the feel of gear spread out over the hips than swinging loose. Considering some of my regular partners have a few inches on me, gear on a sling also hangs too low, and it's a PITA to adjust the sling if you're swinging pitches.


Partner cracklover


Jul 10, 2008, 5:57 PM
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Re: [irregularpanda] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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All my pro is on a gear sling, on my left side. Nuts in the front, big cams in the back. I place mostly nuts on most climbs, so this works out well.

Four slings over-the-shoulder with one biner on each, on my right side.

Everything else on my harness, on my right side.

irregularpanda wrote:
On my harness.

My question is this: when you use a sling, doesn't your entire rack end up in your fucking lap? In the way of the rope, in the way of my knees, in the way of my feet....

This only happens to me on slab. If I'm climbing slab, I don't need much gear. If I'm leading, I carry the gear I want for the pitch. The second gets everything else.

In other words, no - that's not a problem for me.

GO


the_climber


Jul 10, 2008, 7:13 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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I'd have to agree 100% on that CL.

Even new routing on some slab routes with an extensive rack piled on my gear sling I haven't had any real issues with it ending up in my lap. A quick pull on the sling to swing the gear around to my back and it's out of the way, regardless of how much gear is on the sling.

Over the years I have tried just about every consivable way of racking my gear for a climb. I've ended up with using a sling for 90% of my climbing now.
Only real exceptions would be Pins (these are always on my harness), a pitch requiring only a few specific pieces then racking is on the harness, large cams (bigger than #4 Friend) on the harness, and Aid climbing which I prefer a double sling/chest harness racking system (Yates Bigwall).


(This post was edited by the_climber on Jul 10, 2008, 7:14 PM)


Partner cracklover


Jul 10, 2008, 7:44 PM
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Re: [the_climber] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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the_climber wrote:
A quick pull on the sling to swing the gear around to my back and it's out of the way, regardless of how much gear is on the sling.

Agreed. Though on long slab routes, that can get old fast.

In reply to:
Over the years I have tried just about every consivable way of racking my gear for a climb. I've ended up with using a sling for 90% of my climbing now.
Only real exceptions would be Pins (these are always on my harness), a pitch requiring only a few specific pieces then racking is on the harness, large cams (bigger than #4 Friend) on the harness, and Aid climbing which I prefer a double sling/chest harness racking system (Yates Bigwall).

Agreed with all of the above, except that I've never carried pins, and my double gear sling for aid climbing is a Misty Mountain.

Cheers!

GO


vegastradguy


Jul 10, 2008, 7:46 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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pro on the sling, draws on the harness.

i have a few women friends who prefer racking on their harness due to the weight of the gear sling messing with their center of gravity, especially on the steep.

ymmv, but i personally think that a sling is the way to go after having racked on my harness for years before trying the sling at a suggestion from a friend. i'll never go back.


the_climber


Jul 10, 2008, 7:59 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
Agreed with all of the above, except that I've never carried pins, and my double gear sling for aid climbing is a Misty Mountain.

Cheers!

GO

On established routes on good rock I rarely carry pins (unless aiding), but my area doesn't always have good rock (it's there, just sometimes only on pitches 1,5,7, and 9 Unimpressed) and I'm not always on established routes, thus I've ended up with quite the collection of steel. As much as I love nesting multiple micro nuts repeatedly on a climb in the hopes that the Choss-stone of the Canadian Rockies will hold, I'd rather pull out the hammer and steel.
They key is in the removal of pins (on any route, but especially on new routes) and constructive scaring so that future parties have a placement for clean gear where you on the FA did not. Most of my partners have no problem runing it out (see my sig line), but many of the routes we've put up have no other option in some sections but to drive in a peg, we always do our best to keep scaring to a minimum, but when the neccissary evil is done constructive scaring is the way to go.


I wish someone carried Misty Mountain out here so I could check it out, I've heard good thing about their bigwall gear.


Partner cracklover


Jul 10, 2008, 8:24 PM
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Re: [the_climber] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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Next month I'm moving from the East Coast where I've lived all my life to the Front Range of the Chossies (on the US side, though). So I'm sure I'll see what you mean. I remember hiking around the Maroon Bells area when I was a kid, and those mountains sure are beautiful, but they're just one pile of choss after another.

GO


budman


Jul 16, 2008, 5:19 PM
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Re: [caliclimbergrl] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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Depends. Cams usually on 11/16 sling so as gear moves around it doesn't get caught on shoulder pad as with gear slings with the shoulder pad. Draws and slings on the harness unless the OW is present. Then they go to the sling. Like a sling so you can move right to left and back again as you move from right side in to left side in, keeping the gear on the outside. Nuts and HB's on the harness but sometimes they end up on the sling. Remember in the squeeze, the rack ends up on a runner or 2 hanging from your harness until your through, Thelma and Louise is one route where that happens. If the first move is desperate, then a piece between the teeth.


gargrantuan


Jul 27, 2008, 6:37 AM
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Re: [the_climber] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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the_climber wrote:
As much as I love nesting multiple micro nuts repeatedly on a climb in the hopes that the Choss-stone of the Canadian Rockies will hold, I'd rather pull out the hammer and steel.
They key is in the removal of pins (on any route, but especially on new routes) and constructive scaring so that future parties have a placement for clean gear where you on the FA did not. Most of my partners have no problem runing it out (see my sig line), but many of the routes we've put up have no other option in some sections but to drive in a peg, we always do our best to keep scaring to a minimum, but when the neccissary evil is done constructive scaring is the way to go.


you are probably the ONLY climber in the canadian rockies that gives a rat's ass about scarring the teetering piles of shit that we call mountains. methinks you've been hanging around with too many americans (or have been spending too much time in the bow valley)!

Tongue

in all seriousness, i'd consider (for a brief second) not placing pins on a popular route on Yam or EEOR, but anywhere in the alpine or any new route and i am going to be hammering without a thought about what *ahem* damage i do to the rock. most routes up here see so little traffic that such consideration isn't warranted IMO.


(This post was edited by gargrantuan on Jul 27, 2008, 6:38 AM)


the_climber


Jul 27, 2008, 7:03 AM
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Re: [gargrantuan] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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gargrantuan wrote:
the_climber wrote:
As much as I love nesting multiple micro nuts repeatedly on a climb in the hopes that the Choss-stone of the Canadian Rockies will hold, I'd rather pull out the hammer and steel.
They key is in the removal of pins (on any route, but especially on new routes) and constructive scaring so that future parties have a placement for clean gear where you on the FA did not. Most of my partners have no problem runing it out (see my sig line), but many of the routes we've put up have no other option in some sections but to drive in a peg, we always do our best to keep scaring to a minimum, but when the neccissary evil is done constructive scaring is the way to go.


you are probably the ONLY climber in the canadian rockies that gives a rat's ass about scarring the teetering piles of shit that we call mountains. methinks you've been hanging around with too many americans (or have been spending too much time in the bow valley)!

Tongue

Don't even get me started... we have WAY to many tourons in the Bow Valley! I'm not very patient with them.
Tongue
gargrantuan wrote:
in all seriousness, i'd consider (for a brief second) not placing pins on a popular route on Yam or EEOR, but anywhere in the alpine or any new route and i am going to be hammering without a thought about what *ahem* damage i do to the rock. most routes up here see so little traffic that such consideration isn't warranted IMO.

But see, you have found my weakness, I have a masochistic love of alpine and new routing. We we discussing it on the way back from pushing a new route higher today, and realized that, outside of 2 instructional days for friends, both my partner today and I had only done 1 established route this season.

Oh, and with all the fixed gear on Yam I don't carry pins up there often, but my hammer is most often with me to reset or replace the mank. Except for that one route I mentioned... and I REALLY wanted my hammer!


brownie710


Aug 3, 2008, 7:09 PM
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front left gear loop-small nuts on biner, large nuts on biner, 2-3 trad slings

back left gear loop- 4-5 trad slings, one double length sling with locker

front right- cams 00-.75, each on own biner

back right- cams 1-3 with a few more trad slings and a cordellete with locking biner and atc guide
.
haul loop-nut tool next to my chalkbag with emergency purssik cord inside chalkbag


Partner oldsalt


Sep 10, 2008, 12:46 AM
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Re: [irregularpanda] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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irregularpanda wrote:
...My question is this: when you use a sling, doesn't your entire rack end up in your fucking lap? In the way of the rope, in the way of my knees, in the way of my feet....

I have tried it, and it just pisses me off. Sometimes I use a sling to supplement the harness, but that's just a couple pieces, and thats only when I'm carrying too much crap on my harness.

If you could organize your gear on a sling, with each piece kept separate and readily available, and also adjustable so you could slide pieces up or down in order to get to more pieces, would you go for it?

I am trying to convince a company that there is a market for such a system. I am not referring to the Metolius multi-loop sling, since the pieces that you put on a single loop still clump together.


bussolinister


Sep 10, 2008, 2:47 AM
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I'm still a new-ish at trad, so I've been carrying probably way too much gear out of fear;

Tricams, C3 cams and C4 cams to 2 or 3 on the gear sling over the right shoulder, with my cordalette/biners out of the way in the back

On the harness, nuts on the right, hexes on the left, big cams on the back left, belay device/nut tool/prussiks go back right

draws dispersed between depending on how many I have

can I reiterate that it's pretty much all just preference?


Maddhatter


Sep 10, 2008, 4:16 AM
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Re: [oldsalt] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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oldsalt wrote:
irregularpanda wrote:
...My question is this: when you use a sling, doesn't your entire rack end up in your fucking lap? In the way of the rope, in the way of my knees, in the way of my feet....

I have tried it, and it just pisses me off. Sometimes I use a sling to supplement the harness, but that's just a couple pieces, and thats only when I'm carrying too much crap on my harness.

If you could organize your gear on a sling, with each piece kept separate and readily available, and also adjustable so you could slide pieces up or down in order to get to more pieces, would you go for it?

I am trying to convince a company that there is a market for such a system. I am not referring to the Metolius multi-loop sling, since the pieces that you put on a single loop still clump together.

I had someone make me up a sling that was 2 loops of webbing sewn together about every 2". It was like a sling with 20 (loops) it worked ok but in the end I liked my normal sling better. It did stop the (clumping) of the gear but it made it harder to move out of the way when needed and it was a pain in the ass to get gear from the back loops.


nut_scratcher


Sep 18, 2008, 3:41 PM
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i usually clip my cams to the backs of my shoes and all my passive gear hangs from the chin strap on my helmet.


Partner epoch
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Sep 18, 2008, 3:47 PM
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Re: [nut_scratcher] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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nut_scratcher wrote:
i usually clip my cams to the backs of my shoes and all my passive gear hangs from the chin strap on my helmet.
For someone who registered only yesterday, you sure are on your way to fit in with the retards around here.


nut_scratcher


Sep 18, 2008, 4:15 PM
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Re: [epoch] Where do you usually rack your gear (protection) when leading? [In reply to]
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Hey buddy, how i rack my gear is a personal choice. who are you to judge? ... and i don't see exactly what you mean. How is it "retarded"? if there's a better way, i'd certainly consider trying it out.


Partner epoch
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Sep 18, 2008, 4:26 PM
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nut_scratcher wrote:
Hey buddy, how i rack my gear is a personal choice. who are you to judge? ... and i don't see exactly what you mean. How is it "retarded"? if there's a better way, i'd certainly consider trying it out.

I didn't call the content of your post retarded. I said that with your style of posting, you'll fit in with the rest of the retards.

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