Why?

There are way better devices than the reverso. If you need a device we have a bunch we don't use anymore.

Quickly? Over 5 years?


I really wouldn't say that as quickly unless he went to onsighting 5.12 on gear in that time.


Just think of how many gymrats have gone from beginner to 5.14 and then disappeared in 5 years.

I am one hurt unit today. My whole body is sore. I'm kinda happy we didn't have all three days this weekend.


Bec repeated her hardest RP and made some good progress on her new project. I onsighted two 7b's on sunday. Even if Jack downrates them to 7a+ its still the first time I've onsighted two on the same day. Monday I cleaned the mud and cobwebs out of the Monument and started taking my licks again on that.

I guess I should have expanded... for a year we were on par but he quickly became stronger and could do moves I couldn't... I think it was because he is shorter and needed to work out intermediate moves for those I could reach.... but it's more likely that he's just better! It was over the first five years he excelled, being able to onsight 5.12 on gear and 5.13 sport, as you said. Then one year later I gained on him, but not completely. He regressed a little in the middle years as did I, but now he's back up to where he was before... and me? Well, I'm still in a recession... I mean look at my PC!

My PC is getting huge and it is very likely I have never been climbing better.

Not sure what's up with that, I seem to be climbin better these days after I get more than one pitch up, regardless of whether or not I've warmed up. Seems like I'm just not in the right midset close to the ground... odd thing.

Not really. I have a mortal fear of hitting the ground.


Though since you climb the low angle stuff you might have a point since there is still always stuff to hit.

I was telling Nathan about this photo yesterday when he was working the monunment.


http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ace_Roof_100175.html

He's going backwards. Its kinda like that posed photo of Sonnie Trotter on the Monument. It is assumed it is posed 'cause there's really no way to climb it facing the direction he's in.

I wish I could find that photo of Sonnie....maybe someone else can cough it up.

Meh, my PC is getting up there, and I'm still climbing not too bad either.... well at least after I get that first pitch over with. Not sure what's up with that, I seem to be climbin better these days after I get more than one pitch up, regardless of whether or not I've warmed up. Seems like I'm just not in the right midset close to the ground... odd thing.

Sometimes it is easier to pull the lip feet first. Its impossible to tell from that pic. It is a shitty pic anyway so I doubt it is posed.

No worries... sounds like a normal reaction... I too am fine after the first lead... and actually I prefer to lead first if I'm in a group.... I also feel much better after taking a short fall to loosen all the nerve endings.

Last two years I've been climbing predominantly inside and feeling strong, but that's really NO indication of how I'm climbing. I rarely go out coz there's not much around and hadn't many opportunity. I see myself on a plateau for a couple of years.

I think the caption on this said it was the successful FA ascent.

If you check out the youtubes of Separate Reality (there are a couple very good ones) everyone pulls the roof feet first.

Hey Nathan, you hear something?



Sounded like a cat got it's balls stuck on a car battery.

Thanks for ruining my chances to onsight SR.

Asshat!!

Now I'll have to do it not feet first.


Also, Rebecca asked, and the guy said it was easier to pull feet first.

Yeah, I got confused and thought I was in the other thread.

Hahahahaaa! Yeah, he sure is... my friend started when I did and quickly became better than me within the first five years. He then went to better pastures, while I ended up blorting and eventually posting here with climbing in between.

He knows Simon Carter quite well and is good friends with John Fantini. I think he's going to be climbing with Mike Law Smith on his travel around NW America during the next three months. Although great Australian climbers like them aren't too well known over here.

Hear the roar and feel the wrath of the modzzz..... It's the last thing you hear before da banzing!!

Some shooz.


The funny thing is when she was over she was blaming the shooz for not climbing good. So I did the route she was working on barefoot.

no PC++... but i do have a few pics people like over there. They have a much better photo db over there if you ask me..