non-technical summit at say 14k feet..

Well, I've never been anywhere near 14k but I'll give you my rundown of winter climbing pack- lets say we're going for 2 nights.
Sleepery-
sleeping bag
sleeping bag liner
full length inflatable mat
Bivi bag (must be breathable as shit- second rate breathibility just aint worth it, especially if your sleeping in down)
Belaclava (keeps you exposed face warm!)
Shovel (diggin' caves, levelin' sleeping bits etc.)
Ear plugs- optional (does your partner snore?)
aorama-therapy lavander stuff- yeah yeah, but it works!
Maybe some booties if you're gunna be walking about taking dumps etc. in the night and don't want to put your boots on.

Eatery-
stove
gas
mug with lid and handle
spork
food. (palatable and high energy)
bit of hose that I can put on/take off the edge of the mug to stop burnzing of lips and melting
protein/energy powder (maybe a hint of creatine? dabbed in that once- what a difference!) just because it works.

Rack

Gore tex shell
wind shell (pertex ultralight) with hood
powerstretch jumper
marino base layer
depending on temps, maybe a bigger more lofty jumper
coupla sets of spare socks
powerstretch leggings
Montane terra pants (last two might become montane etxtreme salopettes)
Montane extreme smock/or a belay jacket.
Maybe gamma soft shell
Douchstien [sp] mitts (shrunken wool ones)
Climbing glovesX2
sunglasses
ski goggles
Belaclava (powerstretch again)
Maybe some touch gloves (powerstretch)
powerstretch beanie.
Good gaiters.
Helmet.
Axes/ax
Crampons
1 big powerfull headtorch and one reserve headtorch. spare big headtorch batteries (best if the use the same batteries)
Chapstick (with sunblock)
sunblock
hand sanitiser (got sick once- never want to do it again)
Water- in a nalgene wide-mouth and close to your back (plzdon'tfreeze)

Dunno if I missed anything, but I don't notice anything immediately...

Oh, and of course it all goes into a cilogear pack so I can cinch it down small for the summit day :P (although for me- Both nights would be at one camp, and the days would be spent doing several routes, but that's cuz we gots small hills over here)

did that make sense?

Dingus

you are SAR's biggest nightmare .

Dingus

you are SAR's biggest nightmare .

I noticed that nobody mentioned any of the following (Unless I missed it):

PLB
Avalanche Beacon
Probes
Shovel


Any thoughts on this?

Back pack with Bivy pad

Summit
1 pair of mitts
down coat
gore tex coat
light weight soft shell (un- hooded)
1 pair of long underwear
1 pair of gloves
light med kit
gu
sunscreen

I'm also a fan of leaving camp at 12 to get ahead and catch the summit sunrise.

Please Explain this More




So when does your summit mean that you are typically not planning on a bivy on your summit day and if you do your only doing it in emergency?

Wanna compare self-evac combat wounds?

Sides, I thought YOU were SAR's worst nightmare. Me? They'd be done with my cleanup pronto.

You? The gift that keeps on giving.....

DMT

Ok So whats in your pack on summit day? With the following as a weather prediction:

Clear Skys but could snow later that night
0 Deg temps steady throughout the day
Base camp is half a days hike/climb from summit

not trying to pick a fight i'm just looking for alternative opinions

You take what you need, on summit day. And not one ounce more!

Cheers
DMT

If I was you and new in mountaineering, I would ask dingus for his list and no one else. so just go with what dingus says.

....But Whats in your pack?

Andrew,

The whole light and fast attitude is great, but needs to be combined with a wealth of experience. Start out with everything you can imagine needing (needing not wanting), and with each subsiquent trip, you can trim your pack down to a damn near anorexic level.

When rank amateurs follow the fast and light approach they are asking for trouble. Without experience and a solid buildup of skills, you are likely to get yourself in trouble, and without a full loadup of gear, trouble can kill you quick.

Examples:
Shovel: big and heavy, do you know the snow conditions? do you know wheere the prevailing winds will deposit snow that will be easy to dig by hand for a cave?
Axe / Crampons: getting very comfortable without depending on these speeds things up a lot. Get used to trusting your boots. More often than not, people stop to dig out crampons when they are really not needed.
Food / Fuel: Beginners typically take way to much food and fuel. Figure out your usage, and take just a bit extra in the event the shit hits the fan.
Sleeping bag: Extra calories and a walk before bed will keep you warm through the night in a lower rated bag, figure out if you are a warm or cold sleeper.
Clothing: Stay warm but take the minimum. Clean clothing is for meeting your fuck buddies parents, you are supposed to stink in the mountains. EXCEPTION is socks, take top notch care of your feet, Wet socks lead to very bad things (blisters, swampfoot, frostbite).

You have to find your happy place between Majid and Grizzly Adams, One can subsist on nothing but experience, the other requires equipment to cover every possible contingency.

the other requires equipment to cover every possible contingency.

Andrew

are you done with your list?

You got me all wrong,we are trained to look for physical objects and not some ghost that wonders solo by himself in Sierras.

looks like a whole lot of fun!
How often did those poons ball up in that powder, though?
If it's how it looks I may haver gone without.

They weren't bad.. You really can't take them off because, even though that part was relatively flat, the half mile just before that is fairly steep (enough for occasional front pointing) Not tomention that the trail has large spots of pure ice just under the powder so with the wind blowing you around you had ot have the poons on.

Dingus

you are SAR's biggest nightmare .

My gear was good but I know I took way too much, as I was prepared to spend the night. Partially because I knew the rest of my group was dreadfully unprepared ...

This is WAAY bad juju. If you knew your group wasn't ready, you shouldn't have gone. things could have been way worse than what you described. be careful.


things I see missing from the packing list:

1st aid kit
extra socks
headlamp, extra batteries

rethink carrying the dragonfly. they're great stoves but all you're doing is boiling water. a pocket rocket or jetboil or even whisperlite would be better.

Save some fuel by adding snow (NOT yellow) to a waterbottle that is 1/2 full of water.

I'm still waiting for his packing list....either he doesn't want to share trade secrets or he's just ignoring me

open you pack
and let me see

1- knife
2- flashlligh
3-first aid kit

for now till your list complete

What?

I think (through my past experiance with the majidian langauge) that he is trying to say;
"Make sure you remember your head torch, first aid kit, and knife"

Thanks for the translation....I was like "what the fuck is he talking about?"

'd imagine that mountaineering and alpine climbing is 90% preparation and then 10% doing

LOL You just keep telling yourself that my friend.

DMT

sungun

Are you done lecturing the poor guy on what to pack?

With your list of goodies (and stuff that you keep adding) I hope you never go for any expedition cause you may never leave the hotel room.

Like he said- it's your list for what your doing, and like I said, thats for a couple of days winter climbing from a base-bivi.
Often I would take more then that, for comfort.
And I don't get a sherpa to carry it for me.

Never seen the reason for a spare torch, batteries yes. As it is, a good light will have an extra bulb, so in lieu of a true electrical problem you're covered in one light. BTW, ever try to cross a crevasse field with a tiki, not fun (or in this case the wind blown alpine garden)..

What i've learned: So along with proper study of your intended destination and route, you(one) should take proper care in designing a kit to meet every situation. So from what i've learned here is that there are basic "can't live without" things that most of you take and then there are your specialty items as well. I'd imagine that mountaineering and alpine climbing is 90% preparation and then 10% doing

did you go to English school ? say more than that not more then that

And that 10% doing is based on "time on the mountain" not physical exertion. How many weeks do you typically prepare for a big trip? You spend some time packing, you spend time learning the area and you spend time training. I think its a fair assesment based on my previous experience with backpacking and climbing....anyone dissagree?

I think its a fair assesment based on my previous experience with backpacking and climbing....anyone dissagree?

I'm reading about mountaineering (Freedom of the hills) But I have no alpine experience and I'm curious to get others opinions on what they take when going for a non-technical summit at say 14k feet, with temps at a low of 0 and 20-30mph wind. And lets say you are planning on spending the night . Seems like you could share a good bit of gear with your partner(s)

Anyone want to entertain this one?

We can limit it to the essential gear as well since, I don't care so much about your lucky chapstick

I'm just comparing the recommended kit from the book to what people are actually using.

did you go to English school ? say more than that not more then that

Nah mate- a scottish school.
TBH I don't really give a feck when I'm talking to you- I figure you can't understand the grammar or spelling anyway.

ohh so now the english professor who has been flaming me over my way of experssing my points is using his own grammer / spelling mistakes as an excuse.

In English, this is called “hypocrite” aka hypocrite double sided bastard

did you go to English school ? say more than that not more then that

You have truly hit rock bottom when majid is correcting your grammar

English is not my first language[;] so for the rest of my life I will deal with both spelling and grammar issues and I do not get offended by RC users pointing [out] my mistakes. In fact, I think RCers are doing me a favor by promoting me to be [a] better in writing [writer][,] but, for an English professor who happens to be in Scotland [behind the desk of a cheap-ass hotel], making mistakes in English grammar is unacceptable. If I was [were] him, I would jump off some big wall and ended my life for making grammar mistakes.

I carry a Petzl E-lite as my backup bulb and battery. Last year on an alpine rock climb, my partner spent 20 minutes digging through his pack at a belay, looking for his headlamp. Ended up following the pitch in the dark. When he got up to the next belay, I handed him my spare headlamp and he was off climbing up to the bivy ledge. We found his headlamp the next day when we retreated. He had pulled it out of his pack earlier when rummaging around but didn't put it back.

Instead of fiddling with bulbs or batteries, I find it easier just to grab a spare headlamp. The E-lite weighs less than a couple AA batteries and is pretty bright. The lithium coin batteries can last through the night.

Works for me.

ohh so now the english professor who has been flaming me over my way of experssing my points is using his own grammer / spelling mistakes as an excuse.

In English, this is called “hypocrite” aka hypocrite double sided bastard

So admit you don't bother with your writing cuz you don't give a fuck about the people you're writing to?
So THATS why you post armchair bullshit! You don't care about the n00bs reading it!

Yeah I think however this post turned into a "what to take on Mt. Washington" but my real question was more generic so that I could get a feel for each persons kit which is very situational indeed.

I'm using Mt Washington b/c it's the easiest reference that we share. The nice thing about Washington, Katahdin, Marcy, and Mansfield is that the weather patterns can dish up some pretty hefty conditions ripe for learning the trade. Thus, a good training ground for environments elsewhere.

Ideally what you should carry in your bag is experience. Just get out and put yourself in the most horrid conditions the Northeast has to offer. Bring the kitchen sink and sooner or later things will get pared down to something you think is manageable, I'll think is useless, and some other person will think unsafe. In the end it is what you feel is safe and comfortable in terms of your experience and ability that finds what enters your bag.

Just get out and enjoy, 'cause one day during the heat of summer you'll appreciate that windy -25f evening you spent perched over the Great Gulf freezing your ass off.

This is in response to Majids Last Post, in which he posted a pic (i'm assuming of him) of a climber standing on some mountain with a comment bubble saying "Are you done with your list?" but he deleted it before the world could see.....


Majid, Did you delete your post because you were afraid someone would steel your photoshopped masterpiece?

And maybe I'm wrong, but if that was you in the pic, weren't you holding your axe backwards?

Your Question....am i done with my list?

Ummm....lets see...

1. 70cm Axe (Check)
2. Crampons, (Check)
3. Pack Large Enough To Fit Kitchen Sink (Check)
4. Kitchen Sink With Built Auto Rescue GPS/BEACON, Just Add Water Helicopter and Headlamp Attachment....WITH CHAPSTICK AUTO APPLICATION DEVICE! (Check)
5. My trusty signed copy of the Book Entitled: "Mountaineering Is My Bag Baby!" By Majid Sabet (Check)
6. Certified 4 Wheel Drive Pack Mules To Carry All My Shiznat (Check)

Yep I Think I'm set!