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a-e-jones
Jan 2, 2009, 2:23 AM
Post #26 of 35
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Registered: Jul 5, 2008
Posts: 295
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Biners - camp nano 23 and black diamond positron screw lockers
Cams - metolius ultralights are the lightest that i can think of
Nuts - metolius ultralight nuts
Harness - the new arteryx offerings are the lightest out there
Rope - i'm running a beal joker 9.1 100m version but i think mammut makes a 8.9 thats even lighter
Belay device - reverso 3
Slings beal 6mm slings
just remember when going light you generally sacrifice durability or ease of use
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Carolyn11
Jan 2, 2009, 3:46 AM
Post #27 of 35
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Registered: Jul 29, 2007
Posts: 46
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thanks. the m280s on serious sale. the other model for ice is at full price.
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brutusofwyde
Jan 2, 2009, 6:37 AM
Post #28 of 35
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
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For the extra gear loops, I used a Speedy-stitcher and simply stitched nylon cord to the harness. Then coated that with seam-grip as well.
For the "haul-loop" in back, same deal, using 1/2" tubular webbing.
Brutus
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ServiceAceStud
Jan 2, 2009, 5:26 PM
Post #29 of 35
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Registered: Mar 20, 2007
Posts: 41
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hey penguinatior,
Here are my thoughts on a few of these items.
Belay device go with BD ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 3 due to the amount of top belaying and belaying a 2nd and 3rd trad climbers do.
Rope, something under 10mm and 70m is what I'd suggest. With the extra length and a custom tag line you can really rap and climb anything from the new age to the old school. Companies I like are Maxim and Sterling for sub 10mm ropes. Glider and Velocity.
Slings and Dogbones. I really like Mammut's 8mm dyneema slings and trango's supertape dogbones. Bluewater makes excellent webbing and slings of all lengths, sizes, materials.
Harness. You can go a few ways, super lightweight with Arcteryx's new line or what I really like is Wild Country's synchro elite adjustable. I'm not a trad climber who likes wearing a gear sling so I need to be able to easily manage all my trad gear on my harness loops.
Nuts & Hexes. BD seems to be the standard prefered nut set, but Met Ultralight's save so much weight, if you could potentially double set of Met's and fill in the outside gaps with BD nuts that's what I'd do. For Hexes I like the smaller BD's and larger Wildcountry Rockcentrics.
Cams so far as weight savings concerned I like BD's C4's up to #4, Met TCU's 1-4, Met Mastercams 5-6 and Alien's smaller than the TCU's.
Biners: ah the variety. Non locking I'm a big fan of Metolius Inferno's and Trango Superfly's and DMM's Shield/PHantom as they are all FULL sized, light weight(all than Neutrino's) and ridic strong. For locking you should have a few belay biners for rope bearing surface and a few smaller strong lockers for anchors. Lets face it who wants to build a 4 piece anchor with 80-100 gram lockers when Positron, Quicksilver and Superfly lockers are half the weight and are just as strong if not moreso.
DMM biners are the lightest strongest on the market, but a 13 dollar biner is just too much money when you can get a larger, stronger, but weights 5-9grams more biner for half that much, Actually you can find Inferno QD 5 packs and Superfly 5 packs for a breakdown price of 13 dollars each.
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ken21il
Jan 2, 2009, 6:10 PM
Post #30 of 35
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Registered: Oct 27, 2006
Posts: 137
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while we're on the subject let me run this by everyone... when doubling up on the 00, 0, 0.5 wild country tech friedns would anyone recommend getting the zeros 4,5, and 6 instead of the tech friends? It would save weight but the strength is lost. Any ideas?
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shimanilami
Jan 2, 2009, 6:38 PM
Post #31 of 35
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
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penguinator wrote: ...I wouldnt mind playing around with the idea of making a rack geared specifically towards functionality while keeping weight at an alltime minimum...
I'm surprised that so few of the responders have pointed out that while weight is one contributor to an item's "functionality", there are many other things to consider. I think it would be a serious mistake to build your rack with weight as the only - or even primary - factor driving your decisions.
Take carabiners. The Oz and Camp 'biners are the lightest, but for someone with big hands or using gloves, they are difficult to clip. This doesn't mean that you should go out and buy solid gate ovals instead, but you should try fiddling around with these before you go out and buy 50 of them. (For my money, the WC Heliums are the shit because they are light and big. For lockers, I like the new BD Vaporlocks for the same reasons.)
The hand size/glove factor is also at play with Metolius Ultralight cams. I have big paws and can hardly use the things. (Aliens are nearly as light and IMO much easier to place and remove. For >1", I like the C4's, simply because they work so well.) This said, to suggest that you forego cams and use tri-cams and hexes instead is ludicrous. These may be the lightest option, but their ease of use is so inferior that most climbers don't have one set - much less three -on their rack.
The weight differences between nuts ...please, if they don't place and extract well, why bother? Get the ones that work best. (DMM offsets, IMO.)
I'd go with what everyone else has said about harnesses, ropes and slings.
Have fun buying.
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dynamo_
Jan 4, 2009, 3:29 AM
Post #32 of 35
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Registered: Apr 13, 2005
Posts: 275
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caughtinside wrote: penguinator wrote: Harness: Petzl Hirundos (Any critics of this harness?) be aware that harness has only two gear loops. Not good for trad, IMO. It is a lightweight sport harness.
Actually, the one I just bought and climbed in this weekend has four loops...I only climb trad.
The Hirundos worked well enough, is actually more comfortable than I expected it to be, but is a kidney buster for long raps or hanging belays.
The gear loops easily held five Superflies each if you are racking light on the harness. I put my cams on a sling with passive and slingage on the harness ans it worked great.
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caughtinside
Jan 4, 2009, 4:06 AM
Post #33 of 35
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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whoops. They must have updated the hirundos. Thanks for the update.
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donald949
Jan 7, 2009, 12:55 AM
Post #34 of 35
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Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
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I'll second the BD Quicksilver and Positron locking biners for building anchors. The locking Posi are great, and the locking QS are cheap$$$.
No one has mentioned the OP Doval. Its super light and I rack my stoppers on them. I like the D-Oval shape for racking better than the pure D.
Anyrate, for saving weight, seems to me the easiest place to do it is with the rope. Maybe have two, one 10 for cragging, TR'n, hanging, and one near 9 for alpine, steep redpoints.
Don
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elcapinyoazz
Jan 7, 2009, 5:58 PM
Post #35 of 35
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Registered: Nov 8, 2003
Posts: 93
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Just stop all the wanking about weight and focus on function.
The difference between a "heavy" set of 8 cams and an "ultralight" set is going to be about an oz per cam (less in small sizes) so 8oz.
Difference in tiny, barely useable "ultralight" biners like the OZ, Neutrino, Superfly, and something full sized (I love em and use em for alot of applications, but Superflys aren't even close to "full" sized) is going to be about 8-10g/ea...e.g. neutrino 36g, hotwire 45g or nanowire 26g, spectre 35g . Call it another 8oz total for the rack (24 biners).
That's a pound total. Not many of us don't have a spare pound of bodyweight to lose, or a shirt to take off, etc. Simply racking only what you need for the pitch instead of a bunch of "just in case" pieces will save you more than buying a closet full of the latest lightweight doodads.
There's a reason so many people prefer camalots in the .5-3 range over lighter cams, ditto why so many people are racking those on hotwires. Feel and function.
Difference in ropes is only going to be about 15g/m between a std run of the mill 10.2ish rope and a superslinky 9.2ish cord. Call it an oz per 6ft, say 12oz at the end of a pitch (72ft avg pitch for convenience). But the upside of the reducing weight in the ropes is that it tends to increase function rather than decrease it. Clips are easier, etc. Downside is longevity/lifespan, not suitable for working/dogging, etc.
I recently replaced my draws. Money isn't an issue, I could have bought anything on the market, but I went with positron top+hotwire bottom because hotwires are easy to clip, positrons are keylock and they both have excellent feel in the hand/good proportions. Difference between those and the lightest BDs are about 1.2oz per draw, so avg half a pound for spurt routes. Need to make up for that half-pound? Since it's 80 degrees out, with little chance of frostbitten ears, take off that crown of idiocy (I believe ya'll call em "beanies"...we know you've already got your shirt off) and take a piss before cranking your proj, brah.
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