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Carnage
Dec 28, 2008, 8:09 AM
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So theres a new route in the gym(sorry, yea, i know its in the gym who really cares...) that has some crucial kneebar rests in it. When i hit them though, i dont feel like i can really rest at all. anyone have any tips that will make the kneebars feel really solid?
Thanks
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angry
Dec 28, 2008, 8:56 AM
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A kneebar is either totally restful or you have weak legs. Harden the fuck up!!!
God I'm in a cantankerous mood tonight. I better go to bed before I get blood on my keyboard.
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yokese
Dec 28, 2008, 10:21 AM
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Long pants help.
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jt512
Dec 28, 2008, 1:06 PM
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Carnage wrote: So theres a new route in the gym(sorry, yea, i know its in the gym who really cares...) that has some crucial kneebar rests in it. When i hit them though, i dont feel like i can really rest at all. anyone have any tips that will make the kneebars feel really solid? Thanks
Crucial rest or crucial lack of endurance?
Jay
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johnwesely
Dec 28, 2008, 2:20 PM
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You might be either too short or tall to use the kneebar. If that is the case, suck it up and do the route without them, and then you can give everyone crap for needing to use them.
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kyleshea
Dec 28, 2008, 4:35 PM
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jt512 wrote: Carnage wrote: So theres a new route in the gym(sorry, yea, i know its in the gym who really cares...) that has some crucial kneebar rests in it. When i hit them though, i dont feel like i can really rest at all. anyone have any tips that will make the kneebars feel really solid? Thanks Crucial rest or crucial lack of endurance? Jay
rc.com answers everytbing. act like a dick and your kneebars will be solid.
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rjtrials
Dec 28, 2008, 4:52 PM
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Use your calf muscle to drive your thigh into the rest. The harder you press with your foot the less weight needs to be on your hands. The gym would be a perfect place to get comfortable in no-hands kneebars too.
Also, jeans definately help when kneebaring but if you cant stand the look, then scrubs have a very good texture and feel for climbing and the knee scums.
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Alphaboth
Dec 28, 2008, 5:50 PM
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Watch Dan Osman do a knee bar rest while he's free soloing. That'll show you all you need to know. It's in Master's of Stone III or look it up on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYe2AKDvdWY&feature=related
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sungam
Dec 28, 2008, 8:13 PM
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Alphaboth wrote: Watch Dan Osman do a knee bar rest while he's free soloing. That'll show you all you need to know. It's in Master's of Stone III or look it up on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYe2AKDvdWY&feature=related
Watching someone do a kneebar from a funky angle will not teach you how to do it. Don't be silly. (the video is sweet, though).
Push from the toes as hard as you can, forcing your knee into the upper hold. As was said before, the harder you push, the more frikshon on your knee, the more weight it takes off.
Push hard.
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Alphaboth
Dec 28, 2008, 8:42 PM
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Sure it will, it's really about confidence and trusting a part of your body that your wouldn't expect to hold you on a wall. Dan Osman had the confidence in his kneebar to let go 50ft off the deck.
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lena_chita
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Dec 28, 2008, 8:54 PM
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A kneebar 'solidness' is determined in part by the length of your lower leg. Obviously, we come in different sizes, but the kneebar you have on your gym route is of one specific size. It is possible that your leg is simply the wrong size for it...
Try different ways of getting your leg(s) in there, deeper or more shallow, slightly turned out or in, pushing up on your toe to get a better fit, etc.
I remember several occasions when someone told me that there was a kneebar on a route, I tried and couldn't use it on the first try, but eventually was able to find the exact position that made the kneebar work.
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borntorocku
Dec 28, 2008, 8:55 PM
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I love kneebars because I'm weak. i find them everywhere. One trick is to "milk" them, like slopers. Subtle adjustments make a huge difference. Trying spending 5-10 minutes on one kneebar, don't worry about redpointing on that burn. Frequently, kneebars have different positions. One position might be a resting postion, and there might a different position for the next move.
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sungam
Dec 28, 2008, 8:57 PM
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Okay, it'll show the confidence he has in his kneebarring, but it doesn't actually show the technique. Nor will watching Danno's slack jumping videos teach rigging technique, but they will show you his confidence in his rigging techniques.
Edited to rephrase.
(This post was edited by sungam on Dec 28, 2008, 9:06 PM)
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johneracer
Dec 29, 2008, 12:05 AM
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Alphaboth wrote: Watch Dan Osman do a knee bar rest while he's free soloing. That'll show you all you need to know. It's in Master's of Stone III or look it up on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYe2AKDvdWY&feature=related
WOW I am always amazed when I see this video. And he is jumping on a gri-gri!!
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Valarc
Dec 29, 2008, 12:35 AM
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yokese wrote: Long pants help.
Just a few weeks ago at a bouldering comp I ran into a kneebar that I absolutely needed (i was too weak to hit the next hold any other way). The problem was, the kneebar was very tenuous, and I kept popping out of it. I found the only way I could stick it was to pull up my pants leg and put skin to rock so I could really dig in.
As far as tips, the only way to learn is to play with it a lot. If you're working on them on lead, you might want to try climbing past the kneebar to the next bolt using any means necessary, and get yourself on a toprope, so you can comfortably try the kneebar without the worry of a whipper (albeit a short indoor one) throwing off your mental game.
However, I've also gotta throw in my prickish two cents and ask just how tall your indoor gym is. I mean, honestly, many gyms are barely taller than a boulder problem, so I question how "crucial" a kneebar rest could be in such a situation. Perhaps you need to take a two-pronged approach - improving your technique for when that kneebar might actually matter, and building some endurance so you don't pump out on indoor routes.
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quiteatingmysteak
Dec 29, 2008, 1:25 AM
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proper kneebar
http://img.thesun.co.uk/multimedia/archive/00430/mir_682x400_430613a.jpg
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rockforlife
Dec 29, 2008, 1:34 AM
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johneracer wrote: Alphaboth wrote: Watch Dan Osman do a knee bar rest while he's free soloing. That'll show you all you need to know. It's in Master's of Stone III or look it up on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/...&feature=relatedWOW I am always amazed when I see this video. And he is jumping on a gri-gri!!
CLICKY!!!!
He has the Gri-gri backed up if i can see right
(This post was edited by rockforlife on Dec 29, 2008, 1:40 AM)
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mar_leclerc
Dec 29, 2008, 3:28 AM
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No Han knee bars on roofs are the shit... when you can pull one outdoors then you are core. KNee bars and figure 4's are what makes a badass roof climber...
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sungam
Dec 29, 2008, 3:31 AM
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mar_leclerc wrote: No Han knee bars on roofs are the shit... when you can pull one outdoors then you are core. KNee bars and figure 4's are what makes a badass roof climber...
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Valarc
Dec 29, 2008, 3:34 AM
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sungam wrote: mar_leclerc wrote: No Han knee bars on roofs are the shit... when you can pull one outdoors then you are core. KNee bars and figure 4's are what makes a badass roof climber... Quoted for posterity.
I always thought it was prAna manpris and North Face beanies that made a badass roof climber. My mistake I guess....
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Carnage
Dec 30, 2008, 5:05 AM
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Valarc wrote: yokese wrote: Long pants help. ... However, I've also gotta throw in my prickish two cents and ask just how tall your indoor gym is. ...
the wall is pretty short (25 feet or so) but the route is very traversy. i'd say its about 60 feet of actually climbing. all of the moves feel about at my onsight bouldering limit tho, so its proving to be a pumpfest for me, hence the desire to rest on the kneebar.
also i figure, why not work out the technique now, in the gym, so when i find one outside, i can stick it first try.
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hopperhopper
Dec 30, 2008, 8:37 PM
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Alphaboth wrote: Watch Dan Osman do a knee bar rest while he's free soloing. That'll show you all you need to know.
That doesn't show you anything you need to know.
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Alphaboth
Dec 30, 2008, 10:01 PM
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It does you just have to open your mind.
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hopperhopper
Dec 31, 2008, 12:02 AM
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Alphaboth wrote: It does you just have to open your mind.
Oh. My mistake.
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churningindawake
Dec 31, 2008, 12:15 AM
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Use a knee bar pad.
http://www.delireholds.com/KP.shtml
They help a bit. People might think you are weird wearing one around the gym though.
Always mess with it and find the best position, it will help a lot. Try different foot rotations, and trying to get the most of your leg behind the hold as possible.
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