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thenose
Feb 20, 2009, 6:03 AM
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Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level. The force of the impact caused the bolted belay station to rip out of the rock. Both me and my partner fell about 250 feet until we hit a climber below us. We were able to grab onto the climber and his rope arrested our fall. Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall. But the other team was nice enough to lend us a rope to rap down back to the ground. In the end it was a crazy morning and I will be more prepared next time.
So does anyone know how to get past pitch 25 with adding a bit more pro? The small flaring crack 10m above the belay station is the only thing I saw.
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angry
Feb 20, 2009, 6:14 AM
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5 star material, all the way.
Was it Burt Bronson who caught you two? He does stuff like that.
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dlintz
Feb 20, 2009, 6:22 AM
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thenose wrote: ...So does anyone know how to get past pitch 25 with adding a bit more pro? The small flaring crack 10m above the belay station is the only thing I saw.
Sweet Jeebus, just use that little edge out to the left....it goes without extra pro.
d.
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el_layclimber
Feb 20, 2009, 6:42 AM
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thenose wrote: Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall.
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thenose
Feb 20, 2009, 6:44 AM
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angry wrote: 5 star material, all the way. Was it Burt Bronson who caught you two? He does stuff like that.
No it was david hasselhoff. He was doing a baywatch shoot in the nose area and I knew he was into climbing so I asked him if he wants to roll with me. He is fairly good we both onsighted a 13a for a warmup before we hit the nose that morning.
my partner is not relevant but the pro is.
(This post was edited by thenose on Feb 20, 2009, 6:48 AM)
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thenose
Feb 20, 2009, 6:46 AM
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el_layclimber wrote: thenose wrote: Unfortunately our rope was completely disintegrated due to the fall. Must have been a Petzl rope. Instead of the WC 0, you should have just placed a bolt.
its important to me that i keep the route in original condition. many feel that adding bolts degrades a route. especially when there are trad placements close by. anyway the wc zero placement was fine aside from the fact that it was super flaring. but are there any options up higher?
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northfacejmb
Feb 20, 2009, 6:54 AM
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Dang, its edmontonalta all over again.. You didn't happen to drop a backpack did you?
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el_layclimber
Feb 20, 2009, 3:53 PM
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thenose wrote: its important to me that i keep the route in original condition. many feel that adding bolts degrades a route. especially when there are trad placements close by. anyway the wc zero placement was fine aside from the fact that it was super flaring. but are there any options up higher?
Apparently not, as you felt the need to run it out 70 meters past your last piece. Next time instead of falling, just keep climbing. Oh, you are also going to need a longer rope; after all you had climbed the full 80 meters of its length before your harrowing fall.
As long as you place them by hand on lead and drunk, adding bolts is well in keeping with the original style in which the Nose was climbed.
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krusher4
Feb 20, 2009, 4:55 PM
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hmmmm....maybe watch Dosage 4 and see what Tommy C. does....or maybe just go ask him, he lives in Yosemite now.
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patmay81
Feb 20, 2009, 5:27 PM
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this is either the most amusing troll ever, or the most understated epic of all time. I can't decide which I want to believe it is. I'm leaning towards understated epic, but only because it would take hasselhoff to catch a fall like that!
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krusher4
Feb 20, 2009, 5:31 PM
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I would really like to belive the story....but rc.com is not the best place for true stories LOL.
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a-e-jones
Feb 20, 2009, 6:38 PM
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no defenitly a troll
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a-e-jones
Feb 20, 2009, 6:40 PM
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so how much impact force do you think the climber 250 feet below you recieved
these trolls really are ruining rc.com
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angry
Feb 20, 2009, 6:43 PM
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a-e-jones wrote: so how much impact force do you think the climber 250 feet below you recieved these trolls really are ruining rc.com
No, they're making it more fun.
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yokese
Feb 20, 2009, 6:46 PM
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patmay81 wrote: this is either the most amusing troll ever, or the most understated epic of all time.
I think is neither. T1, perhaps T1+.
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krusher4
Feb 20, 2009, 6:48 PM
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Ohhhh it's like that fall in the opening of "Vertical Limit" so the OP say's something simlar happened to them "3 cams won't hold....you'll have to cut them loose" but instead the other climbers gave them a 'spare' rope.
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brotherbbock
Feb 20, 2009, 6:51 PM
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holy crap you are the man. this should have been filmed and put on the sharp end movie. glad you guys are ok. that must have been exciting running it out so far.
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kennoyce
Feb 20, 2009, 7:01 PM
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Sounds like a blast, If you are ever in need of a partner let me know.
So to answer your question, I think that you must have been off route. I was under the impression that you can't go more than about 30 feet without running into a bolt on the nose, so you must have been doing a new variation.
Great job, the only thing I don't get is why you rapped back down, you had another rope, so you should have given it another go.
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itstoearly
Feb 20, 2009, 7:18 PM
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Why didnt you just reach out and grab one of the many hand placements along that route to arrest your fall? Seems like the easier solution to me.
Either that, or you could just use less pro so you don't pump out and fall.
(This post was edited by itstoearly on Feb 20, 2009, 7:20 PM)
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graniteboy
Feb 20, 2009, 9:50 PM
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The pro is great on pitch 25. But for you sissies, the answer is to lead with a 1000 meter rope. That way, instead of taking a force factor 2 fall, you 'll simply ground out before ripping the belay station.
Then your partner and david Hasselhof can rap directly down to you to loot your wallet.
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dynosore
Feb 20, 2009, 9:57 PM
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In reply to: Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level.
Sounds like you need to work on your protection skills, that zero should have held.
(This post was edited by dynosore on Feb 20, 2009, 9:58 PM)
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northfacejmb
Feb 21, 2009, 12:37 AM
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Ya, I agree with dynosore. If your placements are pulling from 140m falls you need someone to show you how to make better placements.
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rhythm164
Feb 21, 2009, 12:50 AM
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i remember this time I jumped a chasm ropeless, took a hundred footer and stuck the opposite side of the wall with the two ice tools I jumped with...oh wait that was Vertical Limit, nevermind.
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rockandlice
Feb 21, 2009, 1:47 AM
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Pffffft, you fell?
FAIL
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Hennessey
Feb 21, 2009, 4:51 AM
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b b b b Bullshit. 250 foot fall.
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