Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Help - I have Funky Nuts!
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Apr 5, 2009, 3:01 AM
Post #26 of 26 (584 views)

Registered: May 28, 2004
Posts: 597

Re: [skinner] Help - I have Funky Nuts! [In reply to]
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skinner wrote:
*If* you can fish the wire up and get on it from the top, great, but that's not always possible in tiny cracks.

only possible with swedged nuts like aluminum nuts or Trango Brassies - but a good trick.
Otherwise, its the screwdriver and hammer, or hex, or rock.

skinner wrote:
Of course you could take your hammer, bust the rock out all around it, until it falls out, leaving a nice large hex placement for the next person and overall improving the level of safety on the route. Wink

I did that once to remove a Spectre, but it ended up leaving a wide flare, with a Lost Arrow placement in the back, not a hex placement.

Ethics police - this was on a single pitch A2 first ascent in a seldom traveled area, on a route that probably won't go clean until it gets nailed some more.

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