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USnavy
Jun 1, 2009, 2:31 AM
Post #26 of 40
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majid_sabet wrote: From 1 to 10,(1 been the weakest ); which type of rocks are the worse for any type of bolting. 1- 2- Sandstone and Breccias 3- other Sandstone and some other Breccia 4- Sandstone in Australia 5- Basalt 6- 7- Crumbly Granite 8- Solid Granite 9- 10- Quartz Monzonite
Hey, Majid is commenting on stuff he knows nothing about (once again). What a surprise.
It may come as a surprise to you but some basalt is closer on the list to granite then sandstone. In our tests, 3/8" 5-piece Rawl bolts failed before the placement did in our basalt. It doesn’t get much better than that for bolt security now does it? When it comes to drilling our basalt, it ranks in the top three for the hardest shit to drill as well…
(This post was edited by USnavy on Jun 1, 2009, 2:33 AM)
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billcoe_
Jun 1, 2009, 3:45 AM
Post #27 of 40
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dudemanbu wrote: I was put under the impression that high quality basalt is definitely better than crumbly granite, and the best basalts can be even harder than good quality granite. Consult this chart: http://www.geocities.com/unforbidden_geology/rock_properties.htm
Gneiss link. That should help Majid out quite a bit.
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sungam
Jun 1, 2009, 4:29 AM
Post #28 of 40
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chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: bill413 wrote: Wait, shouldn't #4 be "mud?" No, that would be #1, and the technical term is "Fisher Towers". I didn't think it was that bad. I've only done one route there though. What route? Ancient Art? The chimney root on AA
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bill413
Jun 1, 2009, 12:34 PM
Post #29 of 40
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sungam wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: bill413 wrote: Wait, shouldn't #4 be "mud?" No, that would be #1, and the technical term is "Fisher Towers". I didn't think it was that bad. I've only done one route there though. What route? Ancient Art? The chimney root on AA Probably the most climbed route there, and waayyyy better rock then some places. I mean, really - the rock on some of those routes is buried under several inches of mud. Routes have been done there using ice tools.
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altelis
Jun 1, 2009, 4:08 PM
Post #30 of 40
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yea, to get through the bolt ladder that is the first pitch of the SE Colorado Ridge on the King involved using the nut tool to dig through the piles of mud that seeped down then set up OVER THE BOLTS/RIVETS!!!
not overly confidence inspiring to know that was what was covering the "rock" below and then having to climb through that next chimney.....ugh.
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sungam
Jun 1, 2009, 4:16 PM
Post #31 of 40
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Did you have a big tricam or did you lasso the bolt?
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altelis
Jun 1, 2009, 4:19 PM
Post #32 of 40
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for which pitch?!? i'm confused- though it was a couple years ago...and i'm renowned for having terrible route memory!
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bill413
Jun 1, 2009, 4:44 PM
Post #33 of 40
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Maybe he means to bury as a deadman?
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Aunor
Jun 1, 2009, 5:02 PM
Post #34 of 40
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Pet rocks.... they whine.
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bill413
Jun 1, 2009, 5:13 PM
Post #35 of 40
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Aunor wrote: Pet rocks.... they whine.
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sungam
Jun 1, 2009, 6:51 PM
Post #36 of 40
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altelis wrote: for which pitch?!? i'm confused- though it was a couple years ago...and i'm renowned for having terrible route memory!
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altelis
Jun 1, 2009, 7:04 PM
Post #37 of 40
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haha...thats why i don't remember
i did this route with some folks i met here, online
the plan was to do it as a team of 3, and since i had the most aid "experience" at that time (which was minimal), i would take all pitches harder than c1.
1st bad sign: we decided to leave at 7 from the campsite (it was february, so we couldn't get going THAT early). i was up, had breakfast and packed by quarter of. they were ready by 8.....then the approach took FOREVER. they were hesitant to go up any of the 4th class steps. the approach took a LONG time.
we go to the base. they dropped stuff and loligagged- it was almost an hour from when we arrived at the base till we started climbing....grrr.
so one of the dudes took the first pitch. took him over an hour to lead. he just took some rivet hangers, qds, etc and a LIGHT rack.... grrr. then he fixed two ropes, one hanging free and the other was the lead rope. i was going to take pitch three, so i jugged with ALL the extra aid gear and the 3rd dude jugged the free line with just his free shoes and any extra gear he needed for the 2nd free pitch. so 20 minutes later i'm at the top of the pitch, cleaned all the gear, restacked the rope, etc. he was still jugging- about 1/2 way up. he was panting and complaining about how hard "this whole jugging thing" was. that was NOT a good sign.
then it took him a LONG time to lead the chimney. that i could give him- it was a scary lead for sure. i jug the fuck up fast on the free line, leaving dude 1 to clean the pitch, cause i was going to lead the next. i got maybe 10 feet up and came back down. there was NO way we were going to finish, and i didn't feel like an epic rap/hike out in the dark if we weren't going to summit.
i said that i thought we should bail. they were like why, lets just do one more pitch. i said it would, i guarantee, take us about 1.5 hrs to rap the two pitches (i had a feeling....). i told them that by the time we finished rapping, packed up and hiked out the sun would JUST start setting. they didn't believe me- said i was being too conservative. i said fine. we had 3 ropes. i said gimme one, i'll rap on my own and you guys and do what you want. i was going down, no questions. well, finally they agree.
guess what? i was SPOT on for our rap time. and guess what? we got to the car as the beautiful sunset was just coming into full form......
i REALLY wanna go back though, thats for sure!
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bill413
Jun 1, 2009, 7:25 PM
Post #38 of 40
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altelis wrote: guess what? i was SPOT on for our rap time. and guess what? we got to the car as the beautiful sunset was just coming into full form....
Good assessment of the rapping skill that would be demonstrated.
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altelis
Jun 1, 2009, 7:46 PM
Post #39 of 40
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bill413 wrote: altelis wrote: guess what? i was SPOT on for our rap time. and guess what? we got to the car as the beautiful sunset was just coming into full form.... Well that part sounds lovely. Good assessment of the rapping skill that would be demonstrated.
yea, that skill has come from enough mis-judged times (both of how long that next will take to climb, and how long those next series of raps will take). and the willingness to push my luck. most of the time rapping in the dark won't kill you if you take your time, are methodical, and take the necessary extra steps and precautions.
i knew we could make the raps out safely in the dark. at least i knew i could. i wasn't entirely comfortable with my partner's ability to (or their ability to hike out in the dark). i also really didn't feel like it. like i said, if it were one pitch to the summitt, i would probably have committed. but we had 3 more (i think thats right). just wasn't going to happen.
and yes, that sunset was spectacular.
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sungam
Jun 1, 2009, 7:56 PM
Post #40 of 40
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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Wanna go do it?
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