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Gmburns2000


May 18, 2009, 3:47 PM
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Weekend Warrior
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Hey, we're all weekend warriors to some degree, right? I know, there's some of us who are out there climbing full time with no regard for the days of the week, those few scant days off from work, or time in general. But most of us have to deal with this and only get a few days per month outside of the annual trips to climb.

Post up your daily juice, because you know there are just as many good and bad days on the weekends as there are on bigger trips.

My first day out is here: Plugging for the first time without shoes

Seriously, I want to hear how people get out for just a day trip. It's as if you're writing a letter; there's not much to say until you start saying it, and then you realize you've said so much more than expected.

Did you get scared off your normal warmup? Did you send that crappy, broken arrete in your neighbor's yard that you've been staring at for years but never had the courage to cross the street, ignore your neighbor's plea for you to return the lawn mower, and climb the damn thing? Or did you simply get out and enjoy the sun in peace?

This is the thread for day-to-day.


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May 18, 2009, 5:18 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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I will not read your blog.


Gmburns2000


May 18, 2009, 5:21 PM
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Re: [epoch] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Cheers! Thanks!Wink


uni_jim


May 18, 2009, 5:37 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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good read


Gmburns2000


May 18, 2009, 5:47 PM
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Re: [uni_jim] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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uni_jim wrote:
good read

Thanks man.

I'm sure I'll be the only person posting up for a while, but I do hope some folks post their weekend stories here. I think it would be fun to read.

So if you've got anything...


shockabuku


May 18, 2009, 5:59 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Yesterday my daughter, son, and I went out to the Crystal Wall in Poudre Canyon. It's a short approach (~10 min) and we saw one party there when we arrived with their dog Clyde. Clyde seemed to like our stuff throughout the day but as he was really pretty easy to get along with I didn't feel like bashing in his head with a rock like I often do with people's loud, obnoxious canines.

Anyway, we warmed up on a single pitch 5.9, I think 4 or 5 bolts then the anchor, on the typically square cut granite in this area. My daughter put it up, my son TRed it, then we pulled the rope and I lead it and cleaned the anchor.

Then we moved over to a 5.11 b or c that I had tried once the previous year and had fallen from close to the anchors and which my daughter (who is freaked by anything not overhanging, but generally climbs about a whole number grade better than I do) bailed from after the 2nd or 3rd bolt. So anyway, I sent this time with the technical part of the crux going very smoothly but with a little bit of concern at the power part of the crux, anyway I forced through. My son didn't want to do it, so my daughter got on. She got to the part where she had bailed last year and then remembered the climb. It was pretty funny since she wasn't real thrilled but she pushed through. She had some trouble working through the thin, slightly less than vertical parts and so got to the crux and fell while trying to figure out the sequence. After a couple of attempts trying to figure it out she finished it off with a much smoother effort than mine.

From there we moved to the overhanging routes on the end of the formation (~5.12b) and scoped out a line we hadn't tried before. These routes, which are on a face at about 90 degrees to the main face, have a very different character and tend to be vertically striated with lots of sidepulls but not as good ledges. It looked do-able so my daughter tied in and gave it a try. She climbed two bolts, then dogged the rest of the way up figuring out the beta on the way. For a first attempt at that grade it went fairly well. She lowered and while we were changing over my son decided to take a practice fall, from a boulder in the middle of the scree field that will now be known as "Grace", while he was trying to take some photos for his photography class. Somehow, after his rather spectacular headfirst "Fall from Grace", he managed not to cause serious injury to either himself or his camera so after cleaning up some scrapes and minor cuts, we got back to climbing. My turn, and it punished me. I climbed through the first two bolts (on TR), hung for a while, unclipped the third, tried about 6 times to make the move and couldn't do it, then jammed myself in the chimney to the side of the route and flailed up to a good hold where I could unclip the next draw, flailed around some more, and about 5 minutes later finally made it to the anchor (15 ft away). I was pretty beat after that and it was getting late so we went home. Very nice day, just a little warm.


Gmburns2000


May 18, 2009, 6:17 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Heh. The "fall from grace" is kind of funny. Did he just jump off a boulder? Headfirst?


Partner cracklover


May 18, 2009, 6:29 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool.

GO


Gmburns2000


May 18, 2009, 6:45 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool.

GO

I'm trying to get others to post up their stories from their weekend jaunts. Most TRs seem to stem from major trips (mine to Moab, another's to China, someone else's to J-Tree, etc.), but I find there are a lot of stories in the regular, at-home climbing days, too. Take Shokabubu's son in his post above, there's a story in there somewhere. I'm interested in learning about that.

I'd like to read about those days out that aren't necessarily big trips.

Thanks for the support, and of course I am always looking to increase readership, but I do have a solid base of regular readers. I'd honestly like to read more from others. Part of this is because I'm trying to get a greater sense of storytelling from ordinary people. I have a belief that there's a lot more interesting stories out there than the glamorous, epic, and glorified accounts that are spoonfed to us. I'm hoping to learn something from this.


shockabuku


May 18, 2009, 6:52 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Heh. The "fall from grace" is kind of funny. Did he just jump off a boulder? Headfirst?

No, he was squatting down trying to get a picture on the top of the boulder. The top of it is a pretty narrow ridge and he lost his balance just as he was ready to use the camera. It's a shame he didn't get another half second because he had just switched the camera to video but hadn't pushed the start button yet. Anyway, I heard a bunch of cursing and looked over to see him rolling over the edge of the rock with the camera held up in the air. If I hadn't been so worried that he was going to break his head it would have been pretty funny.


Gmburns2000


May 18, 2009, 6:57 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
Heh. The "fall from grace" is kind of funny. Did he just jump off a boulder? Headfirst?

No, he was squatting down trying to get a picture on the top of the boulder. The top of it is a pretty narrow ridge and he lost his balance just as he was ready to use the camera. It's a shame he didn't get another half second because he had just switched the camera to video but hadn't pushed the start button yet. Anyway, I heard a bunch of cursing and looked over to see him rolling over the edge of the rock with the camera held up in the air. If I hadn't been so worried that he was going to break his head it would have been pretty funny.

Laugh


kennoyce


May 18, 2009, 7:43 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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I don't know if this counts since it wasn't technically the weekend, but here it goes anyways.

last tuesday the 12th of may a couple of good friends were coming up north from arazona to visit family, and decided that we should meet up in maple canyon for a bit of climbing. I was going to hitch a ride from a couple of other friends but they called me at 7:30 (our scheduled departure time) and told me that they had just woken up. Since they have 2 kids I decided that I didn't want to wait for them to get ready, so I headed out on my own. By nine am I had arrived at maple canyon and as always was in awe of the amazing cobblestone walls.

I quickly located my friends from arazona's campsite and helped them pack up and get ready for some climbing. This last semester in school has been extremely time consuming, which means that I'm a weakling and have no endurance, so we decided to start out at orangutan wall since there are several easy long climbs on it.

We arrived at the wall, and since I had just pro-dealed some new draws, my friends graciously allowed me the first lead of the day. I jumped on a very fun sustained 5.9 that's a full 100 feet to the anchors. I lead it cleanly with no problems, so we pulled the rope and each took turns leading it. Once all three of us had lead it, I lead up a .10c right next to the 5.9 once again cleanly, and once again we each lead it.

Up to this time we had just been relaxing and taking it slowly, hoping that our other friends would arrive shortly. They still weren't there so we decided that we would just hang out and leave the ropes on the routes so that they could TR them once they arrived. We just sat in the sun enjoying the weather for another half hour or so until our other friends got there and TR'd the 2 routes that we had set up.

It was around noon by now so we decided to head back to the campsite to make some lunch. we ate bagels, quesadillas, and oranges, then decided we would go do some climbing in the box canyon area.

We got to the box canyon area and started out with the warmup of choice, a short overhung pumpy .10a. I got the onsight and once again we each took turns either leading or TRing it depending on how we all felt. After that it was an .11a that I fell off of right as I went for the hold that you clip the chains from. That was a bummer, but I still enjoyed the route immensely, and felt good about how I had done considering how little I've climbed in the past 8 months. After these 2 climbs our late arriving friends told us that they needed to be heading home because they had to work that night, so we said good bye and also decided that it was time for a change of scenery (and to go somewhere easier since we were all starting to feel pretty tired). Off to the schoolroom we went.

The schoolroom is the beginner area of maple canyon, but it does have a few classic lines in it, so we started with a overhung 5.8 which the three of us left all redpointed (not that that is too amazing, but we were all feeling tired at this point). Next up was the ultra-classic line of the schoolroom, The Big Kahuna (named after an enormous cobble right in the center of the route). We each lead it up, then decided we only had strength left for one more moderately "hard" route. We were in luck because right next to the big kahuna there is a short 3 bolt .11a. I didn't think I had the strength left to get the redpoint on it, but to my surprise, I was able to push myself through and redpoint that thing.

At this point we realized that we had climbed 7 routes, and decided that an even ten routes would make a great day of climbing. We also realized that the last .11a we had done had pretty much drained us, so it was good we were in the beginner area of maple canyon. We jumped on a 5.8, then on a 5.7 and for our last route of the day we did a 5.9. I'm almost ashamed to admit it, but as I was clipping the crux bolt of the 5.9, my fingers just didn't want to stay wrapped around the cobble they were on, and I just barely got the rope through the draw when my hand let go of that hold. I rested a few seconds then finished the route, but I decided that even though I fell off of a 5.9 it was still a great day of climbing.

We went back to camp, had some dinner then went to bed.

The next day we only had a couple of hours to climb and decided that since both my friend Ben and myself had just pro-dealed some new trad gear, we would head to Rock Canyon in Provo to try it out. We wanted to do something easy and close to the trail, so I thought we could go to the kitchen and do a fun 5.8 that follows a double crack system. Since Ben had never been there he went for the onsight and did very well. His wife Jenalyn then TR'd it, then I lead it up. When I got to the crux (an overhanging wide hands section) I realized that the good positive face hold that you used to be able to use had broken off in the years since I had last climbed the route. I was still able to get the redpoint, but that route is certainly no longer a 5.8, I'd say its probably a .10a now without that hold (I was able to sandbag my friends without even trying isn't that great).

After that we decided that it was time to take off since Ben's sister had taken the day off work specifically to visit them, so we went our separate ways.


Gmburns2000


May 18, 2009, 8:03 PM
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Re: [kennoyce] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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well, the "weekend" was only noted because that's the term. I think a regular day of climbing certainly suffices.

It's interesting how one can have ups and downs in the course of a regular day, even at the end when one thinks one's energy is sapped.

Sounds like a nice, relaxing day.


kennoyce


May 18, 2009, 8:05 PM
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It was a great day. By the way, I love your blog, it's freaking awesome, you do some good writing.


Gmburns2000


May 18, 2009, 8:14 PM
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Re: [kennoyce] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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kennoyce wrote:
It was a great day. By the way, I love your blog, it's freaking awesome, you do some good writing.

Thanks. I do appreciate it.

One of the challenges is to find ways to make the mundane interesting. I get a lot of people that come up to and say, "there's always something that happens to you on your trips!" and that is somewhat true. All of my adventures do really happen, but I often times have to find ways to highlight those events, or even to find events that are worth highlighting. Once I get an angle, it's all about setting it up so that it stands out.

However, I'm kind of in a rut. I talk a lot about overcoming fear and I write too much about how I internalize things. I'm trying to find out what other people find interesting and how they communicate that. I'm looking for new methods of communicating ordinary life.

So my goal is two-fold: to learn and to read about others' climbing lives. Keep them coming. I'd love to read how folks change their storytelling over time, too.


Partner cracklover


May 18, 2009, 9:21 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Have you read through the stuff in the Trip Reports here? What about on the other forums? rec.climbing is a gold mine.

Just not sure why you think handing out an assignment to others is the best method of you breaking out of your rut. Plenty of good quality stuff is already out there, if you want to see how it's done!

And just so you realize I'm not trying to blow you off, here's a start (one of my favorites of all time): http://groups.google.com/...4f9/f0d5b8dda8d4feea

GO

GO


Gmburns2000


May 18, 2009, 10:00 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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I read a lot of the other blogs already. They're good. I guess I asked folks here because I'm on this site regularly and I kind of know who people are (online only, of course).

It certainly wasn't an assignment. I honestly want to read what folks have to say. Maybe others don't want to read it. That's fine, but I'm interested. Not sure why I have to search elsewhere when there are plenty of people here who might be interested in partipating. Two others have already. I enjoyed it and will continue to push for more throughout the summer. Maybe it'll die. Maybe it won't. Maybe I'll be the only one posting in the end. I hope not.

Thanks for link. That was a good write-up. I liked the presentation style for sure, and that's what I need to see. It was nice to see a couple of familiar users there, too.


Gmburns2000


May 28, 2009, 5:15 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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OK, so trying to keep this thread alive:

A recent rainy weekend in the 'Gunks is now up for you reading pleasure.


guangzhou


May 29, 2009, 1:31 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool.

GO

I'm trying to get others to post up their stories from their weekend jaunts. Most TRs seem to stem from major trips (mine to Moab, another's to China, someone else's to J-Tree, etc.), but I find there are a lot of stories in the regular, at-home climbing days, too. Take Shokabubu's son in his post above, there's a story in there somewhere. I'm interested in learning about that.

I'd like to read about those days out that aren't necessarily big trips.

A big trip is relative to where one lives. For me, a weekend trip includes China and KL Malaysia because of whee I live. On the other hand, a small local crag like Quincy Quarry would be a major trip.

I lived in Yosemite of a year. At that time, Serenity Crack and Royal Arches were routes I did after work. Now, I live in Indonesia, my weekend trips normally mean first ascents.

Cheers
E


Gmburns2000


May 29, 2009, 1:48 AM
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guangzhou wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool.

GO

I'm trying to get others to post up their stories from their weekend jaunts. Most TRs seem to stem from major trips (mine to Moab, another's to China, someone else's to J-Tree, etc.), but I find there are a lot of stories in the regular, at-home climbing days, too. Take Shokabubu's son in his post above, there's a story in there somewhere. I'm interested in learning about that.

I'd like to read about those days out that aren't necessarily big trips.

A big trip is relative to where one lives. For me, a weekend trip includes China and KL Malaysia because of whee I live. On the other hand, a small local crag like Quincy Quarry would be a major trip.

I lived in Yosemite of a year. At that time, Serenity Crack and Royal Arches were routes I did after work. Now, I live in Indonesia, my weekend trips normally mean first ascents.

Cheers
E

I'd love to hear about those. We don't get very many accounts of stuff over there.


guangzhou


May 29, 2009, 2:22 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool.

GO

I'm trying to get others to post up their stories from their weekend jaunts. Most TRs seem to stem from major trips (mine to Moab, another's to China, someone else's to J-Tree, etc.), but I find there are a lot of stories in the regular, at-home climbing days, too. Take Shokabubu's son in his post above, there's a story in there somewhere. I'm interested in learning about that.

I'd like to read about those days out that aren't necessarily big trips.

A big trip is relative to where one lives. For me, a weekend trip includes China and KL Malaysia because of whee I live. On the other hand, a small local crag like Quincy Quarry would be a major trip.

I lived in Yosemite of a year. At that time, Serenity Crack and Royal Arches were routes I did after work. Now, I live in Indonesia, my weekend trips normally mean first ascents.

Cheers
E

I'd love to hear about those. We don't get very many accounts of stuff over there.

I think you mean you don't read many of the accounts. I've posted trips here and on my personal blog several times. http://class5photos.blogspot.com/

www.climbing.com, climbing magazine's website has also started a new blog for me at http://www.climbing.com/...gs/emmanuel_lacoste/
I post stuff specifically related to climbing there. Other stuff will stay on my personal blog. In all honesty, I find posting trip report to this site is a wasted of time for me. I write on my blog so people I meet, know, or am related too can keep track of me. Most people on this site have a very limited and narrow view of life and climbing in general. (Not all, just most)

I've read you blog a couple of times. I'm not a regular reader, just not enough new stuff there. I like some of your photos. I also think you need to push your climbing a bit more, but I base that on your various post.

Cheers
E


(This post was edited by guangzhou on May 29, 2009, 2:24 AM)


Gmburns2000


May 29, 2009, 2:29 AM
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Re: [guangzhou] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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guangzhou wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool.

GO

I'm trying to get others to post up their stories from their weekend jaunts. Most TRs seem to stem from major trips (mine to Moab, another's to China, someone else's to J-Tree, etc.), but I find there are a lot of stories in the regular, at-home climbing days, too. Take Shokabubu's son in his post above, there's a story in there somewhere. I'm interested in learning about that.

I'd like to read about those days out that aren't necessarily big trips.

A big trip is relative to where one lives. For me, a weekend trip includes China and KL Malaysia because of whee I live. On the other hand, a small local crag like Quincy Quarry would be a major trip.

I lived in Yosemite of a year. At that time, Serenity Crack and Royal Arches were routes I did after work. Now, I live in Indonesia, my weekend trips normally mean first ascents.

Cheers
E

I'd love to hear about those. We don't get very many accounts of stuff over there.

I think you mean you don't read many of the accounts. I've posted trips here and on my personal blog several times. http://class5photos.blogspot.com/

www.climbing.com, climbing magazine's website has also started a new blog for me at http://www.climbing.com/...gs/emmanuel_lacoste/
I post stuff specifically related to climbing there. Other stuff will stay on my personal blog. In all honesty, I find posting trip report to this site is a wasted of time for me. I write on my blog so people I meet, know, or am related too can keep track of me. Most people on this site have a very limited and narrow view of life and climbing in general. (Not all, just most)

I've read you blog a couple of times. I'm not a regular reader, just not enough new stuff there. I like some of your photos. I also think you need to push your climbing a bit more, but I base that on your various post.

Cheers
E

Well thanks for reading and your advice. I'm definitely pushing it more this year than in year's past. I just feel better. Also, I hope to have updates on a weekly basis from here on out.

I've read a few of your posts, too, on your blog, but wasn't aware of your climbing blog. I'll check that out now. Luke told me to get in touch with him in June or July about that. Maybe I'll shoot him an e-mail sooner than that.

Cheers...


guangzhou


May 29, 2009, 2:49 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool.

GO

I'm trying to get others to post up their stories from their weekend jaunts. Most TRs seem to stem from major trips (mine to Moab, another's to China, someone else's to J-Tree, etc.), but I find there are a lot of stories in the regular, at-home climbing days, too. Take Shokabubu's son in his post above, there's a story in there somewhere. I'm interested in learning about that.

I'd like to read about those days out that aren't necessarily big trips.

A big trip is relative to where one lives. For me, a weekend trip includes China and KL Malaysia because of whee I live. On the other hand, a small local crag like Quincy Quarry would be a major trip.

I lived in Yosemite of a year. At that time, Serenity Crack and Royal Arches were routes I did after work. Now, I live in Indonesia, my weekend trips normally mean first ascents.

Cheers
E

I'd love to hear about those. We don't get very many accounts of stuff over there.

I think you mean you don't read many of the accounts. I've posted trips here and on my personal blog several times. http://class5photos.blogspot.com/

www.climbing.com, climbing magazine's website has also started a new blog for me at http://www.climbing.com/...gs/emmanuel_lacoste/
I post stuff specifically related to climbing there. Other stuff will stay on my personal blog. In all honesty, I find posting trip report to this site is a wasted of time for me. I write on my blog so people I meet, know, or am related too can keep track of me. Most people on this site have a very limited and narrow view of life and climbing in general. (Not all, just most)

I've read you blog a couple of times. I'm not a regular reader, just not enough new stuff there. I like some of your photos. I also think you need to push your climbing a bit more, but I base that on your various post.

Cheers
E

Well thanks for reading and your advice. I'm definitely pushing it more this year than in year's past. I just feel better. Also, I hope to have updates on a weekly basis from here on out.

I've read a few of your posts, too, on your blog, but wasn't aware of your climbing blog. I'll check that out now. Luke told me to get in touch with him in June or July about that. Maybe I'll shoot him an e-mail sooner than that.

Cheers...

My blog was just created, goes live May 29th. I think your blog has potential and that you do well. Rereading my post, I think some might misunderstand what I wrote when I said no new info.

Most of the routes and place you mention, I've already climbed. To be honest, I would read it more often if your blog was more personal than general. Emotions and thought would be great. Personal views.

I'll be in Colorado next month, if you're in the area, maybe we can climb together.

Cheers
E


Gmburns2000


May 29, 2009, 1:21 PM
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guangzhou wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool.

GO

I'm trying to get others to post up their stories from their weekend jaunts. Most TRs seem to stem from major trips (mine to Moab, another's to China, someone else's to J-Tree, etc.), but I find there are a lot of stories in the regular, at-home climbing days, too. Take Shokabubu's son in his post above, there's a story in there somewhere. I'm interested in learning about that.

I'd like to read about those days out that aren't necessarily big trips.

A big trip is relative to where one lives. For me, a weekend trip includes China and KL Malaysia because of whee I live. On the other hand, a small local crag like Quincy Quarry would be a major trip.

I lived in Yosemite of a year. At that time, Serenity Crack and Royal Arches were routes I did after work. Now, I live in Indonesia, my weekend trips normally mean first ascents.

Cheers
E

I'd love to hear about those. We don't get very many accounts of stuff over there.

I think you mean you don't read many of the accounts. I've posted trips here and on my personal blog several times. http://class5photos.blogspot.com/

www.climbing.com, climbing magazine's website has also started a new blog for me at http://www.climbing.com/...gs/emmanuel_lacoste/
I post stuff specifically related to climbing there. Other stuff will stay on my personal blog. In all honesty, I find posting trip report to this site is a wasted of time for me. I write on my blog so people I meet, know, or am related too can keep track of me. Most people on this site have a very limited and narrow view of life and climbing in general. (Not all, just most)

I've read you blog a couple of times. I'm not a regular reader, just not enough new stuff there. I like some of your photos. I also think you need to push your climbing a bit more, but I base that on your various post.

Cheers
E

Well thanks for reading and your advice. I'm definitely pushing it more this year than in year's past. I just feel better. Also, I hope to have updates on a weekly basis from here on out.

I've read a few of your posts, too, on your blog, but wasn't aware of your climbing blog. I'll check that out now. Luke told me to get in touch with him in June or July about that. Maybe I'll shoot him an e-mail sooner than that.

Cheers...

My blog was just created, goes live May 29th. I think your blog has potential and that you do well. Rereading my post, I think some might misunderstand what I wrote when I said no new info.

Most of the routes and place you mention, I've already climbed. To be honest, I would read it more often if your blog was more personal than general. Emotions and thought would be great. Personal views.

I'll be in Colorado next month, if you're in the area, maybe we can climb together.

Cheers
E

Ah, I see what you're saying. That's actually really helpful. It's funny because I do see my posts as being personal, but not in an opinionated way. Well, to be honest I did rip into the arraingement that Colorado Mountain School was with RMNP here, but you're right, I could probably make it a bit less internal and more external. This is part of the reason why I started this thread, to find a new way of communicating. This is good feedback. Thanks. Looks like I might have some rewriting to do.

I won't be in Colorado due to my hopes of saving as much vacation time for when I move to Chile next spring (I'm going to need that cash-out), but my cohort on the blog, Jeremiah, lives and works as a guide out there. He's in Colorado Springs and his username is Jmeizis on here. I'm sure he'd be happy to get together even if just for a day if your schedules didn't match up. He's a good guy. A bit looney at times, but always within reason. Laugh I'd recommend to him to just about anyone, particularly since he is just starting to come into his own and very willing to learn and apply what he has learned.

Maybe we'll meet up some other time, though.

Greg


donald949


May 29, 2009, 11:51 PM
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Alright, since Greg asked, here's a quick write up on my last trip. I wouldn't call it a weekend, as it was only a Sat cragging trip. Anyrate.
I called around to see who was interested, and got a couple of my gumby freinds to commit. And I'm bringing the boys. Actually the one freind made a trip to Tahq with me last summer for a multipitch climb. 3 pitches with the first being a 200 foot rope stretcher. Not to much of a gumby anymore.
None the less we headed out about 730 to Big Rock at Perris Lake in Riverside county. It is primarily bolted slab, but the bolt spacing is old school trad style. To get there we take the toll road as this saves a good 20 minutes of driving. We get to the State park and pay at the unmaned hut. Drive over to the climber parking, pack up and head out.
We get about 50 feet and there's a rent a cop parked at the gate at the end of the road. Sorry guy's but you can't go that way, they're working on the dam for the next week or so.
Me: So whats with all these cars, where are they?
Rent A Cop: Prolly out fishing.
Well not likely. This area is where the climbers park, the fishermen park else where.
Dang, what to do. We had driven 1 1/2 hours, paid $5 in tolls and $8 parking. Now what?
Start walking back. We could climb that hill, mess around on that boulder. OK.
So we get to the boulder start messing around. I find a place to loop some slings for TR'n.
But we're keeping an eye on the rent a cop from up on the hill. Eventually the county Sherrif rolls in and parks next to her. Then the Sherrif checks everyone's parking decal a heads out. But wait the rent a cop is gone.
Well before I pull out the rope, lets see what happens. Some bicyclist roll past the gate. Ride out towards the rock and way out of sight. LETS GO.
Cool she's gone.
We walk up to the rock, and holy cow! Its crowded. Practically every route has someone on it.
So I jump on Africa Flake, a short 60 foot climb. But with only 2 bolts for protection, the first being 20-25 feet up. Which was actually good for me. Last climb I did, I lost focus at the crux. Well more like wasn't in the zone, but I was able to get in the zone and focus this time.
My buds and my boys all got to climb. With my older boy Jake climbing to the anchors, about 60 feet high twice in a row. The younger one only about 30 feet up. But they had a good day. My two freinds did well, with the more experinced one pulling some nice thin 5.8 face moves.
Afterwards, we just keep saying. Yup can't walk that way guys, its closed.
NOT.


guangzhou


May 30, 2009, 4:43 AM
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donald949 wrote:
Alright, since Greg asked, here's a quick write up on my last trip. I wouldn't call it a weekend, as it was only a Sat cragging trip. Anyrate.
I called around to see who was interested, and got a couple of my gumby freinds to commit. And I'm bringing the boys. Actually the one freind made a trip to Tahq with me last summer for a multipitch climb. 3 pitches with the first being a 200 foot rope stretcher. Not to much of a gumby anymore.
None the less we headed out about 730 to Big Rock at Perris Lake in Riverside county. It is primarily bolted slab, but the bolt spacing is old school trad style. To get there we take the toll road as this saves a good 20 minutes of driving. We get to the State park and pay at the unmaned hut. Drive over to the climber parking, pack up and head out.
We get about 50 feet and there's a rent a cop parked at the gate at the end of the road. Sorry guy's but you can't go that way, they're working on the dam for the next week or so.
Me: So whats with all these cars, where are they?
Rent A Cop: Prolly out fishing.
Well not likely. This area is where the climbers park, the fishermen park else where.
Dang, what to do. We had driven 1 1/2 hours, paid $5 in tolls and $8 parking. Now what?
Start walking back. We could climb that hill, mess around on that boulder. OK.
So we get to the boulder start messing around. I find a place to loop some slings for TR'n.
But we're keeping an eye on the rent a cop from up on the hill. Eventually the county Sherrif rolls in and parks next to her. Then the Sherrif checks everyone's parking decal a heads out. But wait the rent a cop is gone.
Well before I pull out the rope, lets see what happens. Some bicyclist roll past the gate. Ride out towards the rock and way out of sight. LETS GO.
Cool she's gone.
We walk up to the rock, and holy cow! Its crowded. Practically every route has someone on it.
So I jump on Africa Flake, a short 60 foot climb. But with only 2 bolts for protection, the first being 20-25 feet up. Which was actually good for me. Last climb I did, I lost focus at the crux. Well more like wasn't in the zone, but I was able to get in the zone and focus this time.
My buds and my boys all got to climb. With my older boy Jake climbing to the anchors, about 60 feet high twice in a row. The younger one only about 30 feet up. But they had a good day. My two freinds did well, with the more experinced one pulling some nice thin 5.8 face moves.
Afterwards, we just keep saying. Yup can't walk that way guys, its closed.
NOT.

Sounds like a nice day of fun climb. I only climbed that area once while driving by to visit my mother. Spendid rock, nice location, but it gets hot.

Nice write up, glad your kids are learning to play outdoors too.

Cheers
Eman


Gmburns2000


Jun 1, 2009, 12:54 AM
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donald949 wrote:
Alright, since Greg asked, here's a quick write up on my last trip. I wouldn't call it a weekend, as it was only a Sat cragging trip. Anyrate.
I called around to see who was interested, and got a couple of my gumby freinds to commit. And I'm bringing the boys. Actually the one freind made a trip to Tahq with me last summer for a multipitch climb. 3 pitches with the first being a 200 foot rope stretcher. Not to much of a gumby anymore.
None the less we headed out about 730 to Big Rock at Perris Lake in Riverside county. It is primarily bolted slab, but the bolt spacing is old school trad style. To get there we take the toll road as this saves a good 20 minutes of driving. We get to the State park and pay at the unmaned hut. Drive over to the climber parking, pack up and head out.
We get about 50 feet and there's a rent a cop parked at the gate at the end of the road. Sorry guy's but you can't go that way, they're working on the dam for the next week or so.
Me: So whats with all these cars, where are they?
Rent A Cop: Prolly out fishing.
Well not likely. This area is where the climbers park, the fishermen park else where.
Dang, what to do. We had driven 1 1/2 hours, paid $5 in tolls and $8 parking. Now what?
Start walking back. We could climb that hill, mess around on that boulder. OK.
So we get to the boulder start messing around. I find a place to loop some slings for TR'n.
But we're keeping an eye on the rent a cop from up on the hill. Eventually the county Sherrif rolls in and parks next to her. Then the Sherrif checks everyone's parking decal a heads out. But wait the rent a cop is gone.
Well before I pull out the rope, lets see what happens. Some bicyclist roll past the gate. Ride out towards the rock and way out of sight. LETS GO.
Cool she's gone.
We walk up to the rock, and holy cow! Its crowded. Practically every route has someone on it.
So I jump on Africa Flake, a short 60 foot climb. But with only 2 bolts for protection, the first being 20-25 feet up. Which was actually good for me. Last climb I did, I lost focus at the crux. Well more like wasn't in the zone, but I was able to get in the zone and focus this time.
My buds and my boys all got to climb. With my older boy Jake climbing to the anchors, about 60 feet high twice in a row. The younger one only about 30 feet up. But they had a good day. My two freinds did well, with the more experinced one pulling some nice thin 5.8 face moves.
Afterwards, we just keep saying. Yup can't walk that way guys, its closed.
NOT.

effn rent-a-cops! HA!


Gmburns2000


Jun 1, 2009, 3:36 PM
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Spent a day at Farley recently. Trying something a bit different here. Hopefully this is at least a step in the right direction toward loosening it up.


donald949


Jun 1, 2009, 4:06 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
donald949 wrote:
Alright, since Greg asked, here's a quick write up on my last trip. I wouldn't call it a weekend, as it was only a Sat cragging trip. Anyrate.
I called around to see who was interested, and got a couple of my gumby freinds to commit. And I'm bringing the boys. Actually the one freind made a trip to Tahq with me last summer for a multipitch climb. 3 pitches with the first being a 200 foot rope stretcher. Not to much of a gumby anymore.
None the less we headed out about 730 to Big Rock at Perris Lake in Riverside county. It is primarily bolted slab, but the bolt spacing is old school trad style. To get there we take the toll road as this saves a good 20 minutes of driving. We get to the State park and pay at the unmaned hut. Drive over to the climber parking, pack up and head out.
We get about 50 feet and there's a rent a cop parked at the gate at the end of the road. Sorry guy's but you can't go that way, they're working on the dam for the next week or so.
Me: So whats with all these cars, where are they?
Rent A Cop: Prolly out fishing.
Well not likely. This area is where the climbers park, the fishermen park else where.
Dang, what to do. We had driven 1 1/2 hours, paid $5 in tolls and $8 parking. Now what?
Start walking back. We could climb that hill, mess around on that boulder. OK.
So we get to the boulder start messing around. I find a place to loop some slings for TR'n.
But we're keeping an eye on the rent a cop from up on the hill. Eventually the county Sherrif rolls in and parks next to her. Then the Sherrif checks everyone's parking decal a heads out. But wait the rent a cop is gone.
Well before I pull out the rope, lets see what happens. Some bicyclist roll past the gate. Ride out towards the rock and way out of sight. LETS GO.
Cool she's gone.
We walk up to the rock, and holy cow! Its crowded. Practically every route has someone on it.
So I jump on Africa Flake, a short 60 foot climb. But with only 2 bolts for protection, the first being 20-25 feet up. Which was actually good for me. Last climb I did, I lost focus at the crux. Well more like wasn't in the zone, but I was able to get in the zone and focus this time.
My buds and my boys all got to climb. With my older boy Jake climbing to the anchors, about 60 feet high twice in a row. The younger one only about 30 feet up. But they had a good day. My two freinds did well, with the more experinced one pulling some nice thin 5.8 face moves.
Afterwards, we just keep saying. Yup can't walk that way guys, its closed.
NOT.

effn rent-a-cops! HA!

Yea, really, rent a cops.

Re kids. Yea, the boys like it. But they have fun just running around playing in the dirt. So usually they take one burn on the rope and go back to doing their thing.
But the season is winding down out there. It will be starting to get too hot soon.


Gmburns2000


Jun 1, 2009, 4:38 PM
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Gotta go someplace cooler. It's good that your kids have the patience for climbing, and that you have partenrs who are patient with your kids. I can see where that might be tought to come by.


dingus


Jun 1, 2009, 4:56 PM
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Lots of storm build up in the Sierra this past weekend.

We made camp Sat night in a steady rain. It was still sprinkling when we set the alarms - 3 am.

And it was cloudy and damp still at 3 am. Still we went through the motions.

We were hiking before sunrise, though we wouldn't have been able to see it anyway.

"It'll get better buddy, you'll see! " I promised with more cheer than I felt.

So at 9 am we were very surprised to be standing at the base of our objective, 800 feet of dry rock overhead and a window of blus sky split by our summit.

"Take the packs?" Angus asked. Turning around, looking 'out' it was hard to ignore the wall of gray clouds AT NINE A.M. - just over there.

"OK by me."

So we packed up all our shit and rigged our packs for climbing. Angus hefted his -

"Damn this is heavy. How heavy is yours?" He hefted mine. "Bout the same. Sure you want to take packs?"

I roll my eyes inwardly, look again at the weather and say,

"Can take it or leave it, I don't care. Let's leave em!"

So we cast caution into the wind. I took a quart of water, a goretexy jacket and some nuts. Angus took aabout the same.

We were counting on getting up and off this thing before weather hit us. We both know the route well.

So enroute we passed some other parties. Apparently these blokes had camped somewhere the evening before.

They were all equipped as we were going to be - packs and shit.

Well we did some simul climbing and what have you and managed to get to the top pretty quickly - about 2 hours I reckon. Not bad some a couple of old broken weekend worriers.

Angus overheard at a belay (from one of the other parties):

"Those guys (us) are going pretty light!"

"Day like today, you need to be prepared for ANYTHING!"

I guess he did not approve of our style.

But 3 hours after setting foot to rock, we were back at our packs, staring up at the peak as the last party summited.

Back at the cars by 3 PM. Looking back up the peak was enveloped in clouds.

Hope those well-prepared climbers got off OK!

"A rope and a rack and the shirts on our back." Laughed Angus.

Raced with the devil we did. A fine time was had by all.

DMT


Gmburns2000


Jun 1, 2009, 5:12 PM
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I've made the mistake of bringing too much before. I really wish we had gone light.

And I love the Angus-Dingus connection.


Partner cracklover


Jun 1, 2009, 7:35 PM
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Dingus, nice writing as always, and a perfect example (for whomever may care) that the right word or phrase in the right place is 1000 times better than noodling on for five pages about details that no-one but the author could give a shit about. Of course, that's why you're a helluva good writer, and I'm just a hack.

GO


caughtinside


Jun 1, 2009, 7:52 PM
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well I'm on the 10th month or so of my weekend warrior gig, but hadn't climbed a lick in 4 months.

check out the holcomb pinnacles above big bear. Fire off 4 5.10 sport routes like they were nothing. sweet! the power is still there. routes 5 and 6, not so much. I am absolutely wanking out there! I'm creeping along, from 5.5 jug to 5.5 jug, and am just opening up. You know that laugh where you also sound like you're crying? the tears of mirth that might also be of frustration? I was just rolling backwards off those jugs like an upended beetle, totally powerless. great stuff. FOrtunately the clouds rolled in and flipped on the power switch so I had a good excuse to hang it up.

next day I singlehandedly destroyed a rope trying to TR a very un Josh like Bebop Tango. 20 feet to forearm explosion. Just hucking mo after mo, super desperate before I just got stopped and the fuzz started raining down from above. who needs a sheath anyway? I'll leave those to the sailors.


Gmburns2000


Jun 5, 2009, 3:24 PM
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Yup, I was in that same place recently. Got really pumped on a couple of routes right at my limit the Sat and Sun of Memorial Day weekend and then crashed on Monday. My endurance isn't anywhere I want it to be at the moment.

Here is the write-up from Memorial Day weekend. I did knock off two goals, however, that weekend, so it was a good one overall.


skibum14


Jun 5, 2009, 11:31 PM
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Great TR Gmburns. About halfway through, I noticed how well written it was, so it was cool to see that you want to be a writer. Dostoevsky is a favorite of mine, too.


Gmburns2000


Jun 5, 2009, 11:40 PM
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skibum14 wrote:
Great TR Gmburns. About halfway through, I noticed how well written it was, so it was cool to see that you want to be a writer. Dostoevsky is a favorite of mine, too.

thanks man. feel free to post up on this thread, too. i don't want this thread to be all mine.


skibum14


Jun 5, 2009, 11:50 PM
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Well, I'm injured now. (Which probably explains why I'm so psyched to be reading nicely written trip reports.) But I'll be sure to post when I start climbing again in a month or so.

But post up people. It doesn't have to be super exciting for an injured climber trying to get his fix.


Gmburns2000


Jun 6, 2009, 12:09 AM
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skibum14 wrote:
Well, I'm injured now. (Which probably explains why I'm so psyched to be reading nicely written trip reports.) But I'll be sure to post when I start climbing again in a month or so.

But post up people. It doesn't have to be super exciting for an injured climber trying to get his fix.

That sucks, dude. I hope you get well soon.

I look forward to reading your first day back!


skibum14


Jun 6, 2009, 1:05 AM
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Thanks, man. If you ever need a partner for the Gunks, I'm back from summer break in late August. I have no permanent partners here yet, so if your regular partners bail and you need someone, let me know.


Gmburns2000


Jun 6, 2009, 1:10 AM
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skibum14 wrote:
Thanks, man. If you ever need a partner for the Gunks, I'm back from summer break in late August. I have no permanent partners here yet, so if your regular partners bail and you need someone, let me know.

I'll keep you in mind. The same goes for if you're up this way, too.


guangzhou


Jun 6, 2009, 1:34 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Nice to hear someone else doesn't want the cubicle life. When you said you want to minimize your possessions, you hit the nail on the head. To many people own to much stuff to enjoy life to it's fullest.

One nice thing about relocating every few years, you sort your stuff and get rid of things that you kept "just in case."

Eman


Gmburns2000


Jun 6, 2009, 1:41 AM
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guangzhou wrote:
Nice to hear someone else doesn't want the cubicle life. When you said you want to minimize your possessions, you hit the nail on the head. To many people own to much stuff to enjoy life to it's fullest.

One nice thing about relocating every few years, you sort your stuff and get rid of things that you kept "just in case."

Eman

Yeah, this will be my first real purge. When I went off to grad school in Scotland a decade ago it wasn't the same. I hadn't started life yet. But now I've started, and it's time to redirect. I plan on keeping only the stuff that is important (family stuff, art, personal items of value) and things that would be dumb to get rid of (computer monitor, books, etc). I have a place to store the stuff (I think). The rest will either be sold or donated. It'll be a fresh start.

BTW - my blog on climbing.com starts up this month. I just have to send my first post, bio, and some pics to Luke and he'll get working on it at some point in the next couple of weeks. My style on climbing.com will be different than my style on my personal blog. I kind of knew I needed to shake things up a bit, but your comment above helped to push me over the edge. Thanks for that. I'll let you know when the first post is up.


gblauer
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Jun 7, 2009, 3:57 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Our Mistake

Today we tried a new climb at the gunks; Bloody Mary (upgraded to 5.7 in the new Dick). I took P1, a super nice crack, followed by a little traverse and then straight on up to a tree with rings and slings. My husband had the honor of P2, a 5.6 with two roofs, right on top of each other. P2 starts off with a 30 foot traverse to the left, then straight up under the first roof. Pull roof 1 and then traverse right to pull roof 2. Mitch did an amazing job leading the 2nd pitch and I really enjoy seconding it. So far so good. Great climb, loved by all. In fact, we wonder why it's not a 3 star classic.

Anyways, we rap off instead of doing P3 and walk over to another climb. I am racking up and I notice that we are missing 4 pieces of gear (cams). Turns out, Mitch never cleaned the anchor. Since it was a light turnout here today, I was certain the gear was still up there. So up Bloody Mary again, this time reversing the pitches; Mitch on P1 and me on P2.

Mitch flew up P1 (worried that we were going to have to rap in the dark) and I took the sharp end on P2). I have never had so much fun in my life. leading that pitch was so much more fun than following. I don't care what Dick says, it's a 3 star in my book. So Mitch's mistake turned out to be a great thing; I loved leading this climb.

So that's our weekend warrior report. We are up at the gunks every weekend, so I am sure there will be more to follow.


Gmburns2000


Jun 7, 2009, 11:18 AM
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gblauer wrote:
Our Mistake

Today we tried a new climb at the gunks; Bloody Mary (upgraded to 5.7 in the new Dick). I took P1, a super nice crack, followed by a little traverse and then straight on up to a tree with rings and slings. My husband had the honor of P2, a 5.6 with two roofs, right on top of each other. P2 starts off with a 30 foot traverse to the left, then straight up under the first roof. Pull roof 1 and then traverse right to pull roof 2. Mitch did an amazing job leading the 2nd pitch and I really enjoy seconding it. So far so good. Great climb, loved by all. In fact, we wonder why it's not a 3 star classic.

Anyways, we rap off instead of doing P3 and walk over to another climb. I am racking up and I notice that we are missing 4 pieces of gear (cams). Turns out, Mitch never cleaned the anchor. Since it was a light turnout here today, I was certain the gear was still up there. So up Bloody Mary again, this time reversing the pitches; Mitch on P1 and me on P2.

Mitch flew up P1 (worried that we were going to have to rap in the dark) and I took the sharp end on P2). I have never had so much fun in my life. leading that pitch was so much more fun than following. I don't care what Dick says, it's a 3 star in my book. So Mitch's mistake turned out to be a great thing; I loved leading this climb.

So that's our weekend warrior report. We are up at the gunks every weekend, so I am sure there will be more to follow.

How tall are you? Tongue


gblauer
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Jun 7, 2009, 12:26 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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I am shrinking from my tallest height of 5' 3", why?

Mitch is 6' 2" and he also liked P2.


granite_grrl


Jun 7, 2009, 2:10 PM
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Gail, that reminds me of the time Nathan and I went up to take photos of me on CCK. Did the climb, got back to the ground.....found out he didn't take a single photo. Shocked

We managed to run back up, passing at least one other party to the side, and did the climb again in record time. Plus side was after already doing the crux pitches once that day I was uber relaxed and Nathan was able to give a worse belay and take better photos.

A few weekends ago I started up Morning After, but after getting a little too wigged out at the lack of gear I bailed over to Bloody Mary. Only did the first pitch though. It was nice.

I'm looking at probobly leaving Tuesday morning right now. I have a few errands to do in Buffalo, but I'll be getting down to the Gunks in the late afternoon. I hope to catch up with you down there, I'll send you a PM when I've got everything nailed down.


Gmburns2000


Jun 7, 2009, 11:36 PM
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gblauer wrote:
I am shrinking from my tallest height of 5' 3", why?

Mitch is 6' 2" and he also liked P2.

Well, if you don't use the tree then it's definitely a short person's route. Of course, Mitch might clearly be a better climber than me, too. Tongue


guangzhou


Jun 8, 2009, 1:10 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
Nice to hear someone else doesn't want the cubicle life. When you said you want to minimize your possessions, you hit the nail on the head. To many people own to much stuff to enjoy life to it's fullest.

One nice thing about relocating every few years, you sort your stuff and get rid of things that you kept "just in case."

Eman

Yeah, this will be my first real purge. When I went off to grad school in Scotland a decade ago it wasn't the same. I hadn't started life yet. But now I've started, and it's time to redirect. I plan on keeping only the stuff that is important (family stuff, art, personal items of value) and things that would be dumb to get rid of (computer monitor, books, etc). I have a place to store the stuff (I think). The rest will either be sold or donated. It'll be a fresh start.

BTW - my blog on climbing.com starts up this month. I just have to send my first post, bio, and some pics to Luke and he'll get working on it at some point in the next couple of weeks. My style on climbing.com will be different than my style on my personal blog. I kind of knew I needed to shake things up a bit, but your comment above helped to push me over the edge. Thanks for that. I'll let you know when the first post is up.

Good luck with the new blog. Hope it does what ever you want it too. Mine, I plan on focusing on South East Asia. We'll see how it goes.


Gmburns2000


Jun 8, 2009, 1:26 AM
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guangzhou wrote:

Good luck with the new blog. Hope it does what ever you want it too. Mine, I plan on focusing on South East Asia. We'll see how it goes.

Well, you seem to have a lock on that. good luck with it. I enjoyed the first post. look forward to reading more.


gblauer
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Jun 8, 2009, 2:15 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:

Well, if you don't use the tree then it's definitely a short person's route. Of course, Mitch might clearly be a better climber than me, too. Tongue

Ummm, we both "used" the tree, that is, we clipped into the tree and traversed underneath and out to the right. Stuck in a piece of pro during the traverse and reached over the lip.

I don't know...I just thought the climb was really really fun, with a great set of roofs. Once over the roof it was "happy" climbing all the way to the ledge.

Now I am looking for more of the same...any suggestions?


Gmburns2000


Jun 8, 2009, 1:13 PM
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gblauer wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:

Well, if you don't use the tree then it's definitely a short person's route. Of course, Mitch might clearly be a better climber than me, too. Tongue

Ummm, we both "used" the tree, that is, we clipped into the tree and traversed underneath and out to the right. Stuck in a piece of pro during the traverse and reached over the lip.

I don't know...I just thought the climb was really really fun, with a great set of roofs. Once over the roof it was "happy" climbing all the way to the ledge.

Now I am looking for more of the same...any suggestions?

Sorry for the confusion. By "use" the tree I meant use it as a hand hold. I felt very scrunched up when not grabbing the tree, which is what I did the first time I climbed it. The second time? I said screw it and wrapped my hands around the trunk.

But I agree the roof and everything above is fantastic. I really liked that roof.

As for similar, I found the roof on P3 of Maria to be fun. It's a bit committing and feels exposed, but it's really good.

If you want scrunched, then try P2 of Yellow Belly in the Nears. That's committing, too.


Gmburns2000


Jun 15, 2009, 8:15 PM
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I've got a new TR up - Bonnie's and Birdland; the pump that keeps on giving

I'm hoping the next post will appear soon, but it won't be on my blog. I'll send that link around when I get to it.

I'm also hearing rumors of another TR, regarding a meth labCrazy, coming soon. Can't wait for that.


hafilax


Jun 15, 2009, 8:46 PM
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I had a good Weekend Warrior break through Saturday and this seems like as good a place as any to put the experience into writing.

I seem to have developed a pattern of pushing my leading grades on long multipitch climbs which I'm sure is a little bass-ackwards. This year I've punted around the local bluffs climbing up to 5.8 but the opportunity to climb the Squamish Buttress plopped on my doorstep on Friday so I had to take advantage.

The Buttress is mostly easy climbing with one delicious 10c headwall pitch at about pitch 11 of 13 that day (we linked a lot of pitches at that and unintentionally simulclimbed one but that's another story). I hemmed and hawed the whole way up but I have to admit that I really did want that lead. I had heard that it was tough and had seen photos but seeing it in person was exciting.

I have a lot of sport psychology issues the greatest of which is a fear of failure. Falling I can deal with but it is the prospect of the disappointment that comes with failure that pulls the rug out from under my confidence. This is probably the reason why I'm more willing to push the grades on multipitch. There will be fewer people around as witnesses.

This was the hardest I have fought for a climb to date. I battled the little voice that wanted to lower and hand over the lead which is something I have done in the past. Getting past the point of no return gave me a clarity of purpose that I haven't felt on a climb in a long time.

The climb is sustained to say the least. I got completely pumped about half way up just in time for the real crux. I lucked out with gear, randomly pulling a piece off the rack and miraculously finding a place for it as well as a fixed nut followed by a fixed pin which took some of the sting out of the crux. At one point the voice of doubt asked to be lowered but I knew that climbing the whole route again was not an option. I was too pumped and the easiest way out was up. I was falling upward as Mark Twight likes to say.

I followed my usual strategy of feeling things out, developing a plan and an objective and committing to getting to that next stance. I placed a lot of gear although my partner kindly said it was far from excessive. I fell onto the fixed nut when a loss of concentration led to a foot popping off of the smear that tenuously held me in place in a stem. The climb took me a long time. It wasn't straight forward and I milked the rests as much as possible trying to fight off the ever building pump. My forearms were solid stumps by the top.

I doubt I would have flashed the climb given how I barely made it even after the sizeable rest I took after the fall. By the top I could barely hold onto the biggest jugs or even pull the trigger of a cam. Pulling up the rope turned into an incredible effort. I had no choice but to belay off the anchor since catching even a top rope fall was out of the question.

So there it is. Not as prestigious as a flash but an achievement nonetheless. I would be prouder if I hadn't fallen but in a way the fall was an achievement in its own right. The fact that I committed to the climb and put myself in the position of failure is a huge milestone this year. Hopefully I can build on this experience and eventually exercise the demons of doubt.


Gmburns2000


Jun 15, 2009, 8:57 PM
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Nice job, dude. That's a good story, even if you did fall. As you said, it really gave you an experience that may help down the road. Sometimes it takes scaring the crap out of you that gets you to believe it isn't all that bad.

And yeah, I know what it's like to not be able to pull the trigger wire. That's happened to me in the cold as well as with pump.

That was a joy to read.


donald949


Jun 16, 2009, 11:46 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
I've got a new TR up - Bonnie's and Birdland; the pump that keeps on giving

I'm hoping the next post will appear soon, but it won't be on my blog. I'll send that link around when I get to it.

I'm also hearing rumors of another TR, regarding a meth labCrazy, coming soon. Can't wait for that.

Some kind of tease I'm sure...

Its over three pages on Word. I'm thinking of breaking it into 3 sections here. I'll try to post it up 1st thing Wed.


Gmburns2000


Jun 17, 2009, 2:02 AM
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donald949 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
I've got a new TR up - Bonnie's and Birdland; the pump that keeps on giving

I'm hoping the next post will appear soon, but it won't be on my blog. I'll send that link around when I get to it.

I'm also hearing rumors of another TR, regarding a meth labCrazy, coming soon. Can't wait for that.

Some kind of tease I'm sure...

Its over three pages on Word. I'm thinking of breaking it into 3 sections here. I'll try to post it up 1st thing Wed.

A page per post. Gotta do the series thing. BTW - I just saw The Hangover, and this TR sounds like it'll be on par.Laugh


clmbr


Jun 17, 2009, 5:11 AM
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Aaah for what its worth... Fun for me and my wife but run of the mill for everyone else I guess.
We weekend warriored it at the usual crag. 2 hour drive and its raining all the way until we get there and magically the rain has gone.
I've got my eye on a project that I solo top roped after quite a few trys over 1 year of trying to lead it and failing to get past the 1st bolt.
My best lead is 5.10d max and this was a 5.8 that seemed like a 5.10 that has spanked many a hopeful. Top roped it again cos I had thought of a slightly different way near the top that would be easier. As it was, imagination had tricked me again and the only way thru the top was across a very thin face, well above the last bolt, onto good holds then mantle for glory.
The crux is at the first bolt tho with a deadpoint reach to a 2 finger pinch on a slight overhang.
I couldn't believe how scared I was on the thin face on moves I knew would go and had practised. Fighting my way thru it, elvis leg going, head cluttered with fear, I battled on...and that was still on top rope. No way could I lead it.
Anyway, sitting there I decided I had to try and lead it. So up.. bang.. crux move held then its up thru a bit of smearing and onto the thin face which was a piece of cake, finishing the mantle and wondering what the fuss was all about.
By then the rain came and it was hometime...Well, tent time anyway. We put up our super deluxe tent , etc for a comfortable tho cold night.

Next day back to the same spot. Full sun and the only place out of the howling wind made it perfect..And nobody else there..on a sunday..
This 5.8 that had grown to almost nightmarish proportion was now my warmup, so did that and showed my wife how to set up for solo toproping, and left her to it, wandering around the crag looking at other projects.
Sure enough she loved the soloing and evey now and then I'd check on her and she'll be talking away to herself, workin out moves, etc.
After that top roped a 5.11a and then it was onto a 5.10d to lead that I hadn't got past the 1st bolt of( yes there are quite a few like that in my resume). Super steep start on ok holds up to a not so good pocket, get feet up onto big pan and the rest is a stroll. Miss the pan, you end up a foot off the deck.
So started off as usual on that route....Hanging off the first bolt. . Then thought well we're here better have a go and went for it...grabbing at anything resembling a hold and just made it with an out of balance desperate grab for the what was luckily the best hold on the route. Was so looking gone I felt the rope tighten slightly as my wife thought I had actually fallen.
So not wanting to spoil the mood we cruised knowing going to send it next time. Not many climbs but great fun.


Gmburns2000


Jun 17, 2009, 1:10 PM
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clmbr wrote:
Aaah for what its worth... Fun for me and my wife but run of the mill for everyone else I guess.
We weekend warriored it at the usual crag. 2 hour drive and its raining all the way until we get there and magically the rain has gone.
I've got my eye on a project that I solo top roped after quite a few trys over 1 year of trying to lead it and failing to get past the 1st bolt.
My best lead is 5.10d max and this was a 5.8 that seemed like a 5.10 that has spanked many a hopeful. Top roped it again cos I had thought of a slightly different way near the top that would be easier. As it was, imagination had tricked me again and the only way thru the top was across a very thin face, well above the last bolt, onto good holds then mantle for glory.
The crux is at the first bolt tho with a deadpoint reach to a 2 finger pinch on a slight overhang.
I couldn't believe how scared I was on the thin face on moves I knew would go and had practised. Fighting my way thru it, elvis leg going, head cluttered with fear, I battled on...and that was still on top rope. No way could I lead it.
Anyway, sitting there I decided I had to try and lead it. So up.. bang.. crux move held then its up thru a bit of smearing and onto the thin face which was a piece of cake, finishing the mantle and wondering what the fuss was all about.
By then the rain came and it was hometime...Well, tent time anyway. We put up our super deluxe tent , etc for a comfortable tho cold night.

Next day back to the same spot. Full sun and the only place out of the howling wind made it perfect..And nobody else there..on a sunday..
This 5.8 that had grown to almost nightmarish proportion was now my warmup, so did that and showed my wife how to set up for solo toproping, and left her to it, wandering around the crag looking at other projects.
Sure enough she loved the soloing and evey now and then I'd check on her and she'll be talking away to herself, workin out moves, etc.
After that top roped a 5.11a and then it was onto a 5.10d to lead that I hadn't got past the 1st bolt of( yes there are quite a few like that in my resume). Super steep start on ok holds up to a not so good pocket, get feet up onto big pan and the rest is a stroll. Miss the pan, you end up a foot off the deck.
So started off as usual on that route....Hanging off the first bolt. . Then thought well we're here better have a go and went for it...grabbing at anything resembling a hold and just made it with an out of balance desperate grab for the what was luckily the best hold on the route. Was so looking gone I felt the rope tighten slightly as my wife thought I had actually fallen.
So not wanting to spoil the mood we cruised knowing going to send it next time. Not many climbs but great fun.

See I think there's adventure on those run of the mill days, too. Thanks for this.


Gmburns2000


Jun 17, 2009, 3:15 PM
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And yet another post, except this one is in a different location.

Climbing.com Reader Blogs

PS - I rail on Rumney a little bit in this post. Angelic


Gmburns2000


Jun 17, 2009, 3:18 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
And yet another post, except this one is in a different location.

Climbing.com Reader Blogs

PS - I rail on Rumney a little bit in this post. Angelic

Oops, only the bio is up at the moment. The post should be up soon.


Partner lwilson


Jun 17, 2009, 3:45 PM
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Thanks Gmburns, the blog is quite fun to read! I was thinking of starting one myself, really to keep friends and family in the loop once I hit the road for a few months of climbing. So reading other's stories gives me an idea on how to approach it.


Gmburns2000


Jun 17, 2009, 4:50 PM
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lwilson wrote:
Thanks Gmburns, the blog is quite fun to read! I was thinking of starting one myself, really to keep friends and family in the loop once I hit the road for a few months of climbing. So reading other's stories gives me an idea on how to approach it.

hey, good luck with it. if you make it a public blog, then let me know and i'll follow along. also, if you have any questions, then let me know. i may be able to help a little bit.


Gmburns2000


Jun 17, 2009, 4:51 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
And yet another post, except this one is in a different location.

Climbing.com Reader Blogs

PS - I rail on Rumney a little bit in this post. Angelic

Oops, only the bio is up at the moment. The post should be up soon.

Now the article itself is posted.


Partner lwilson


Jun 17, 2009, 5:00 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
lwilson wrote:
Thanks Gmburns, the blog is quite fun to read! I was thinking of starting one myself, really to keep friends and family in the loop once I hit the road for a few months of climbing. So reading other's stories gives me an idea on how to approach it.

hey, good luck with it. if you make it a public blog, then let me know and i'll follow along. also, if you have any questions, then let me know. i may be able to help a little bit.

thanks, and if i think its any fun, I'll make it public!


donald949


Jun 17, 2009, 5:17 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
donald949 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
I've got a new TR up - Bonnie's and Birdland; the pump that keeps on giving

I'm hoping the next post will appear soon, but it won't be on my blog. I'll send that link around when I get to it.

I'm also hearing rumors of another TR, regarding a meth labCrazy, coming soon. Can't wait for that.

Some kind of tease I'm sure...

Its over three pages on Word. I'm thinking of breaking it into 3 sections here. I'll try to post it up 1st thing Wed.

A page per post. Gotta do the series thing. BTW - I just saw The Hangover, and this TR sounds like it'll be on par.Laugh

Alright, one page per post...


donald949


Jun 17, 2009, 5:18 PM
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1:30 AM Saturday morning, and weíre trying to back the trailer into the campsite. Its been a long drive, and weíre tired. The trailer is too far over on the driverside, and keeps hitting some brush. After a couple of passes, it only marginally better, but Iím too tired to fight with it any more. However, itís also long way from level. I throw a couple boards under the wheels, and its only marginally better. So out come a couple more boards and weíre closer. Close enough for almost 2 AM. By the time we get the beds set up, it is 2 AM.

As of that Tuesday, I was looking for climbing partners, any climbing partners, any climbing location, but no one was interested. By Saturday, I drove 5 hours late at night towing a trailer, and was climbing with 3 other guys in Alabama Hills outside of Lone Pine for the weekend. Wednesday I found Jorgeís post looking for partners for the weekend, I recruited the family, and was set to go. Of course, given that it was already midweek, we were only going minimalist. But I believe that worked out to my advantage, as the wife knows now that works too.

Friday comes, and we have nothing packed except climbing gear. The clothes get thrown in a couple duffels, food packed into a cooler and some bags, and thatís about it. I pick up the trailer on the way home, we pack up our bags, and roll. But by then its already 8 PM, so its going to be a long and late night. After the mandatory 5 hour drive, weíre trying to park the trailer, the kids are running around since they slept on the drive, and Iím beat. But I fall off sometime after 2, and get almost 6 hours of sleep. After herding the kids around in the morning, we head into town, and meet up with Jorge. Heís recruited two late additions, Charles and Jay. Theyíve already eaten, and are off to Paulís Paradise for a couple 5.7ish climbs. We grab a hearty breakfast and meet them there. I notice a couple of low angle climbs that look doable for the family, but theyíre ready to move onto Sunday Matinee Wall. Jorge promises thereís a couple of easy routes there, we drive on over, and he points one out.

Sunset Trail, 5.5, Sport Bolted.
Jay offers to belay me as Jorge and Charles look to set up something more difficult further down the wall. Its bolted on the face, and I try to climb it there. But its definitely going harder than 5.5. Eventually I work my way around the corner and its easy, but donít pull too hard on the big rock wedged in there. It will pull free. I get Mark, my 5 yo, to rope up and he climbs up a few feet, but quickly looses interest. Jake is not interested at all, and Barb is having difficulties with Elizabeth, our 2 yo.
Jorge meanders over and offers me a turn on the 8 theyíve getting set up.

Sand Trap, 5.8/9, Sport Bolted.
Charles is topping out and Jay is belaying. After Charles lowers, I tell Jay to rope up and Iíll belay him, as heís ready to go and just got done belaying both Charles and me. He is making good work of it, but the guys are giving him lots of beta. Which never bothers me, but is not the usual sop. Turns out Jay had only been climbing since March, so heís doing quite well on a steep 5.8/9. He gets about Ĺ up and chunk of rock falls off. Its close to 1 foot by 2, and up to 2 inches thick. It lands about an inch from my shoes, which Iím not wearing since Iím belaying, with a hollow thud. But was impressive none the less.

Jay gets done and is obliged to belay me, as the two other guys are his seniors, so heís the belay slave. I get about ĺ of the way up, and am feeling the pump. Its step, and strenuous, which is not my forte. I feel myself fade and call falling as I slide off. I shake it out for a minute, put myself back on the rock below where I fell, and finish it. As I get to the anchor I call take quick like and have Jay lower me.

The Alabama Hills book calls it out as a 5.8, but the Eastern Sierra book gives it a 9. Anyrate, the rock fell off at a foot hold, and left loose grit in its place, so that move is harder now. But I donít think it changed the overall rating of the climb.


donald949


Jun 17, 2009, 5:20 PM
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Its 2, Barb is now wanting to take the kids back to the trailer, put Elizabeth down for a nap, and we send them off. Jay cleans my anchor on the 5.5, I bum a ride from the guys, and Jorge suggests we get lunch at the The Whitney Portal store. There is some nice granite up at the portal, but Iíve never climbed there and some of itís big. But Doug, the store owner, notes some nice moderates, which are one pitch bolted, and Iím a little less worried, cause Iím not up for any long hard routes at 3 PM. Heck I pumped out on the one 60 foot route we just did. But it gets too cold for climbing for a bunch of old guys, and the young guy has the thickest jacket on. So its back down the hill for something warmer.

The Split, 5.8, Sport Bolted, Cattle Pocket Rock.
Jorge, jumps on the lead, calls it a 5.9 that fells like an 8. Its got a couple tricky sections and not a gimme, but I think overall its more like an 8 than a 9. Its listed as an 8 here on RC and on MP, so Iíll go with that.

He grunts and groans his way up it, as I belay him up it, but he sends it clean. From the ground there looks like there is more rests than there actually is. There are two cruxes, the start and the finish, but there is a good rest after the start and another before the finish.
Its my turn, and I had gotten an idea of what to do with the start. There is a hand to fist crack that diagonals up, with a couple spots for your feet, some of them thin but they stick. I pull the start and am feeling good. Unclip the draws and climb strong. Get to the rest before the finish and scout the moves. Sloper for the hands, and one thin foot to get to a good foot. Take an extra second, pull on through and hit the anchor. Nice moves, nice climb.

We pull the rope and Charles leads. Another clean send. Jay jumps on and does quite well, again with a fair amount of beta. Its here that I learn heís only been climbing for a few months. Anyrate, very solid work for 4 months of climbing. Charles wants to finish with a TR of the face route right under the anchors. Chardonnay Champagne, 5.9. It climbs over the bulge that is the diagonal jam crack. He works it out a couple times and then sends it. Solid work. Itís an unprotected face climb, so itís a TR only, but certainly looked like a good one. If there is something thatís unappreciated these days, is a good TR, everyone wants lead climbs.

We head back to the campground, Jorge and I share a couple glasses of wine, the wife gets back from McDís with the kids, and we go back to the trailer to put the kids down to sleep right before we fall off to sleep ourselves.

Sunday, we have leftovers for breakfast, and get the kids ready. The guys are headed into town to eat, so I take the family over to Paulís Paradise to set up the low angle stuff I scouted Saturday.

I set up an anchor with several cams for Barb to belay me up. Its easy, with about a 5.5 move right at the start, and another right below the second bolt. But since Barb has never belayed before, I stopped for a second to think about the upper move. I set the anchor, rap off, and set up the TR. Jake jumps on and flys up. He is really turning into quite the proficient little climber.

Ted Shred, 5.9, Paulís Paradise.
The guys have arrived and are setting up Ted Shred, 5.9. Jorge comes over and wants Barb to climb it next. She harnesses, laces, and ropes up. Jorge belays her, but she gets nervous and doesnít get too far. Her feet were only about 6 feet up. Jorge and I give her some nice encouragement, with out trying to be too pushy, before lowering her off. Which she didnít like too much either.

Iím sent up to clean the anchors, and after a false start with the first foot hold I climb it clean. Excellent climb with good footholds, faceholds, and some finger crack. A gear protected climb, with bolted anchors on the top. Practically a gear sport climb.


donald949


Jun 17, 2009, 5:20 PM
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The guys head off to another area, and we want to finish up our climb and pack up for heading home. Jake, Mark, and Barb all get another run up the rope. Mark and Barb only going 10 feet up, but Jake does the full 40 feet. I swing the rope to the left, clip Barb into the belay anchor, and climb another easy climb. Probably 5.6/7 entrance move, with another 5.5/6 move Ĺ way up. Clean the anchor, rap off, pack up the gear, and we head to town for lunch.

Its getting a little late. We had said we would climb until noon, and its now 2:30. The kids have been chowing down in the car on granola bars and PB&J as we cleaned up the gear. But Iím hungry, so we drive through McDís for a couple of burgers and chicken nuggets, get back to the trailer and start hitching up right away. Jake helps crank up the jacks, I hook her up, and Barb breaks everything down for heading out. One stop in town for gas and ice and weíre on our way.

Only problem is its 4:30 and itís 5 hours of driving. Plus thereís got to be a dinner and potty break in the middle. And the quick food stops never are. Plus weíre bucking a stiff head wind. Normally, that shouldnít slow me down too much, but its added a fair amount of drag on the trailer, so we arenít making great time. We make Adelanto, with out too many issues. Except for that Ground Squirrel that ran out in front of me, got half way across the road clean, but then doubled back in front of me. I donít think he made it. Also a couple short step hills made me wonder what was going on, as the Suburban felt completely gutless. In addition to the weight of the trailer and the head wind, apparently the AC sucks up the last of the horsepower.

As we sat in Del Taco in Adelanto, eating and resting, it seemed like a million firetrucks, police cars, and ambulances screamed by. We wondered what was happening, but we needn't wonder, we would find out soon enough. As we rolled out of the shopping center we could see lights flashing ahead. But traffic wasnít backed up, so we kept rolling. As we got closer we saw what all the excitement was about, a house was absolutely engulfed in flames. Unfortunately, they had blocked off the road and turned us onto a side street. We tried to make our way around, but kept getting dead ended. Driving through a random neighborhood we asked a gentleman how to get to the 395 on the south side of the fire. He offered an easier solution, a cut across east to the 15 south that avoided the whole mess. As we had been trying to fight our way around the fire for over 20 minutes, we jumped on that. Two hours later, almost midnight, we were home, and in bed.

A crazy last minute, two long days climbing trip. But everyone had a good time.


Gmburns2000


Jun 17, 2009, 6:02 PM
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donald949 wrote:
The guys head off to another area, and we want to finish up our climb and pack up for heading home. Jake, Mark, and Barb all get another run up the rope. Mark and Barb only going 10 feet up, but Jake does the full 40 feet. I swing the rope to the left, clip Barb into the belay anchor, and climb another easy climb. Probably 5.6/7 entrance move, with another 5.5/6 move Ĺ way up. Clean the anchor, rap off, pack up the gear, and we head to town for lunch.

Its getting a little late. We had said we would climb until noon, and its now 2:30. The kids have been chowing down in the car on granola bars and PB&J as we cleaned up the gear. But Iím hungry, so we drive through McDís for a couple of burgers and chicken nuggets, get back to the trailer and start hitching up right away. Jake helps crank up the jacks, I hook her up, and Barb breaks everything down for heading out. One stop in town for gas and ice and weíre on our way.

Only problem is its 4:30 and itís 5 hours of driving. Plus thereís got to be a dinner and potty break in the middle. And the quick food stops never are. Plus weíre bucking a stiff head wind. Normally, that shouldnít slow me down too much, but its added a fair amount of drag on the trailer, so we arenít making great time. We make Adelanto, with out too many issues. Except for that Ground Squirrel that ran out in front of me, got half way across the road clean, but then doubled back in front of me. I donít think he made it. Also a couple short step hills made me wonder what was going on, as the Suburban felt completely gutless. In addition to the weight of the trailer and the head wind, apparently the AC sucks up the last of the horsepower.

As we sat in Del Taco in Adelanto, eating and resting, it seemed like a million firetrucks, police cars, and ambulances screamed by. We wondered what was happening, but we needn't wonder, we would find out soon enough. As we rolled out of the shopping center we could see lights flashing ahead. But traffic wasnít backed up, so we kept rolling. As we got closer we saw what all the excitement was about, a house was absolutely engulfed in flames. Unfortunately, they had blocked off the road and turned us onto a side street. We tried to make our way around, but kept getting dead ended. Driving through a random neighborhood we asked a gentleman how to get to the 395 on the south side of the fire. He offered an easier solution, a cut across east to the 15 south that avoided the whole mess. As we had been trying to fight our way around the fire for over 20 minutes, we jumped on that. Two hours later, almost midnight, we were home, and in bed.

A crazy last minute, two long days climbing trip. But everyone had a good time.

Heh. That's a good lesson on how to teach the kids that meth labs in the house are BAD!

Still, sounds like you had a nice time, got a lot of climbs in, and still managed to let the kids have a good time. Does the Donny get mad at 2am when the trailer doesn't park correctly, or is he a "fuck it," kind of guy? Laugh


donald949


Jun 17, 2009, 6:48 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:

Heh. That's a good lesson on how to teach the kids that meth labs in the house are BAD!

Still, sounds like you had a nice time, got a lot of climbs in, and still managed to let the kids have a good time. Does the Donny get mad at 2am when the trailer doesn't park correctly, or is he a "fuck it," kind of guy? Laugh

Very good, you got the high dessert town Meth lab connection. Tongue
I wouldn't say a I got a lot of climbs in, but I got enough in. I kept busy climbing. Also, I'm really enjoying having my son and family climb with me.
I'm more of a fuck it, its good enough kind of guy with the trailer.

Follow up on the trip. The drive home I got about 10 mpg. Mad
The wife really enjoyed the trip. The kids and her got to play in the creek Sat afternoon. Also, she really loved the veiw from the campground of the Sierras.

Here is Charles on the Split, he loaded a couple pics already on MP. CC goes up to the right past the bulge/small roof from where his right foot is:



Gmburns2000


Jun 17, 2009, 6:58 PM
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It's also good that you've got friends who are willing to climb with you and your family.


donald949


Jun 17, 2009, 8:24 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
It's also good that you've got friends who are willing to climb with you and your family.
Yea, its deff a plus. Last year my family didn't want to come, so I meet Jorge in Lone Pine and climbed with his family. This year his family didn't want to come, so he climbed with mine.
We actually hooked up for climbing when we replied last year to another fellows post looking for families with young kids that climb.


donald949


Jun 23, 2009, 9:38 PM
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Mark on an unknown easy route in Paul's Backyard:


Barb on Ted Shread:


Couple shots of Jake on the Rock in Paul's Backyard:




Elizabeths mad climbing skills:


My mad climbing skills on Sunday Matinee Wall





Some of the scenery around Lone Pine/Alabama Hills.











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clmbr


Jun 28, 2009, 7:43 AM
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No weekend warrior this time.the rain is crushing my 5.10d aspirations. Unless mac Donald's has a grading system.


Gmburns2000


Jun 28, 2009, 11:56 AM
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clmbr wrote:
No weekend warrior this time.the rain is crushing my 5.10d aspirations. Unless mac Donald's has a grading system.

yup, I'm hearing that. rain all week here. boo hiss.


gblauer
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Jun 29, 2009, 1:07 AM
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Not the weekend, but, I spent Weds-half of saturday at the Red.

We enjoyed amazing climbing at the Military Wall (highlights: Tissue Tiger and Fuzzy Undercling), The Zoo (highlights: One Brick Shy and Monkey in the Middle) and Roadside (highlight: Ro Shampo).

We had dinner at Miguels, great accomodations/breakfasts at True North Inn (hostel) and the awesome hospitality of the local climbing community.

I can't wait to get back, I have to finish Ro Shampo!


Gmburns2000


Jun 29, 2009, 1:22 PM
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I gotta get there someday.

I also have to get out somehow. Rain, injuries, blah!


gblauer
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Jun 29, 2009, 1:35 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
I gotta get there someday.

I also have to get out somehow. Rain, injuries, blah!

It's amazing. But, you have to really love long overhanging, sustained routes! Train hard before you go, otherwise you will be doing a lot of "taking".


gblauer
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Jul 12, 2009, 2:06 PM
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Shockley's in the Vulgarian "style"?

NOT...we did do Shockley's for the first time, alas, we were fully clothed.

Very nice climb up to the roof. A couple of interesting moves to get you into position to pull the roof. Then up and over. I was very intimidated because I had read that this roof was very height dependent. At 5'3" (almost) I figured I would have too much trouble and happily passed the lead to my 6 foot husband, Mitchal. In reality, I had no issue pulling the roof. Was it scary? Yes, but, it was completely doable. Next time, I will lead it.

In the Vulgarian "style"? Maybe...


(This post was edited by gblauer on Jul 12, 2009, 9:48 PM)


Gmburns2000


Jul 17, 2009, 2:01 PM
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gblauer wrote:
Shockley's in the Vulgarian "style"?

NOT...we did do Shockley's for the first time, alas, we were fully clothed.

Very nice climb up to the roof. A couple of interesting moves to get you into position to pull the roof. Then up and over. I was very intimidated because I had read that this roof was very height dependent. At 5'3" (almost) I figured I would have too much trouble and happily passed the lead to my 6 foot husband, Mitchal. In reality, I had no issue pulling the roof. Was it scary? Yes, but, it was completely doable. Next time, I will lead it.

In the Vulgarian "style"? Maybe...

heh - now that's a weekend warrior report worth sticking around for!

Yeah, Shockley's is totally doable. I guess it can be height dependent, there are lower ledges that shorter people can leverage to get their feet up.


Gmburns2000


Jul 17, 2009, 2:02 PM
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A Passionless Weekend

It's been a loooooong time since I've had my last post up. Too much rain, too much life, blah, blah, blah.

This weekend was a very weird one. Somehow, I just couldn't get it together, even though I was able to put it together rather well. As I said, it was weird.


gblauer
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Jul 20, 2009, 2:10 AM
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The weekend report

Climbed for 5 hours on Friday at the gunks, then the heavens opened (yes, we ignored the little spits of rain, the wind, the darkening clouds) and we got soaked. It's too bad, because Jen was about to do a mock lead in preparation for trying to do her first gunks lead.

We started off on Saturday on Credibility Gap and Asphodel. (As a party of 4, we were looking for two climbs in the same general vacinity.) Credibility Gap is one heck of a warm up! It goes up a slick slab (as a second I was totally happy, Mitch wasn't feeling it and it was a scary run up the 5.5 section of this climb), up a ramp and then up an exposed low angle corner. Then you run into a huge ceiling and the only way out is traversing left. It looks completely ridiculous from the ground, but, the holds reveal themselves as you make your way up to the ceiling. The move from under the ceiling to the face is totally fine, but, when you don't know where you are going it's kind of scary. The holds are huge and you get a good left foot almost immediately. Then it's over and you are at an exposed stance. Second pitch was easy, happy fun climbing.


While Credibility Gap was great, my highlight of the weekend was walking up to a climb, looking at it and deciding that I could do it. Turns out, I selected Columbia, an easy 8 that at one time was rated a 9- in Dick's black guide. It certainly was not 9ish, I thought it was pretty easy and I was proud of myself for jumping on something that I really didn't know anything about.

Maybe I will work up the courage to lead Ant's Line! (I can float it on TR, but, not sure how I feel about placing the gear along the way.) Damn, I wish I started climbing when I was a youngster.


(This post was edited by gblauer on Jul 20, 2009, 2:13 AM)


Gmburns2000


Jul 20, 2009, 1:47 PM
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I love Credibility Gap. My partner was going to get on that this weekend as one of his goals, but it was too hot on Sunday. We got baked on Hans Puss.

And oy! the heavens did open up on Friday. We weren't climbing in the rain, but we drove through it on the way to New Paltz, managed to catch a break while setting up the tent, and then felt the floor of our tent feel like a waterbed overnight into Saturday morning. It's amazing the rock was as dry as it was Sat morning.


RolonRolon


Jul 21, 2009, 6:50 PM
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Wrote this a bit ago and dont' think I ever posted it. Nothing exciting but a very fun climb..

Friday, June 26th 2009

Today, Gabe and I went to Eldo canyon. Gabe showed up at my house at about 8:30 and we cruised on over to Eldo. I had to get gas and pulled into a sketchy corner gas-station. It started filling up but stopped after only about 2 secons so I hoped back into the I car and off we went to Eldo with almost a gallon of gas in the car. We argued over what climb to do. We thought the Bastille crack was empty but surprise surprise... somebody had come early and covered the whole wall with top ropes. So we continued around the corner to the West Buttress, a 4 pitch line that ascends just 50' to the west of the Bastille crack and is just as solid climbing but for some reason not nearly as climbed.
Gabe had accepted my gracious offer of a cup of coffee earlier but was fancifully regretting it now as he said his stomach was churning and there aren't bathrooms halfway up the wall (he is obviously far too lazy to walk ALL the way back to the bathrooms in the parking lot).
I fired him up with a pep talk and off he went up the short 10' traverse into the first crux of the climb that doesn't easily protect. Gabe wasn't deterred and shot up the thin moves until he found some ďGod-saving jugs.Ē It was a quick scramble up to the first belay ledge (or what we thought was the first). I seconded and didn't have much trouble cleaning the route nor climbing. Gabe was anchored to a manky looking piton and 2 other cams but said he might need them- would I mind just anchoring to the piton? Errr...I guess. Luckily, I carried a .5 camolot that went in bomber and I was satisfied. But low and behold, it didn't matter! Gabe climbed just around a small arete, spoke to a gentleman on a neighboring route and learned that there was a bolted belay ledge just 20' to our left. Gabe scrambled over and set up another anchor. I broke down what we had of an anchor and decided to skip the easy arete that Gabe had climbed and take a pretty tight chimney directly to the ledge.
I haven't climbed many chimney's in my day but this one was a bundle of fun. The opening moves force you up pretty tight into the chimney until you realize you are pretty much going to have to aim directly for the top. But perfect edges appear at eye level and its an easy but very fun upward traverse to the belay ledge.
As I anchored in and looked up Gabe explained our 3 options- the left most one a fairly easy chimney; the middle a smallish looking finger crack and the right most an easish looking flake. Gabe decided to take the left most route and headed up to the chimney- not putting any pro in the 30 feet of climbing, of course. He got up there and clipped an old piton and backed it up with a bomber cam. Stepping out and over the chimney makes it pretty easy and Gabe didn't have any problems with this approach. As I belayed him he literally didn't stop pulling rope for 30 or so meters. Finally, after what I learned was a 30m runout , Gabe reached the summit and set up a belay anchor. I climbed up to the chimney and got set up. I decided to try and not step out but instead go straight up and through the chimney. I got in a really stupid stance to remove both the quickdraw on the piton and the cam and pumped myself. I then went for some funky body/arm jams and was unsuccessful going directly up.. Instead, I made the step out and went over the chimney. The runout turned out to the be warranted as the rest of the climb was pretty easy climbing with huge jugs everywhere. I reached the summit and didn't realize it for a second because I thought we were doing 4 pitches but then looked around and realized I was at the top! A quick high five and then I sat down to take in the views. I could see other climbers on Calypso on the opposite side of the canyon and hikers as small as ants looking up at us crazy rock climbers. We coiled up our rope and started to look for the decent.. It turned out to be pretty sketchy and exposed but after the exhilarating climb I didn't even notice.. Climbing down we saw hard overhanging roof climbs and dreamed of future days...


Gmburns2000


Jul 21, 2009, 7:39 PM
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^^ I remember feeling a bit foolish for roping up on the descent, particularly when a free soloist came up behind me and confirmed that I was heading the proper direction.Unsure

And I like the view from the top of the Bastille, too.


Gmburns2000


Jul 24, 2009, 8:14 PM
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Heh, well, some days you dream, others you watch your dreams get crushed, and others still leave a lingering sense of doubt and hope all at the same time.

The Silver Lining is now up for reading.


boymeetsrock


Jul 24, 2009, 9:04 PM
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Nice Greg! I enjoyed it much.

I had the same trouble as Jello on the second pitch of Baby. That roof is a bit cryptic.

And I had the same trouble as you on Bonnie's. I still haven't lead the first pitch actually. That roof is NO give away. Good on you for finishing the climb.

I didn't read the rest yet. But I'll come back to it.

Thanks for sharing. oh, and nice pics too btw!

-Boy


Partner cracklover


Jul 24, 2009, 9:26 PM
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RolonRolon wrote:
Wrote this a bit ago and dont' think I ever posted it. Nothing exciting but a very fun climb..

Friday, June 26th 2009

Today, Gabe and I went to Eldo canyon.

^^^ Is different Gabe.

Just to clarify, since there aren't many Gabes that I know...

GO


donald949


Jul 24, 2009, 10:21 PM
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cracklover wrote:
RolonRolon wrote:
Wrote this a bit ago and dont' think I ever posted it. Nothing exciting but a very fun climb..

Friday, June 26th 2009

Today, Gabe and I went to Eldo canyon.

^^^ Is different Gabe.

Just to clarify, since there aren't many Gabes that I know...

GO

Oh sure, we all know, it was Gabe Walker....


Gmburns2000


Jul 24, 2009, 11:59 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
Nice Greg! I enjoyed it much.

I had the same trouble as Jello on the second pitch of Baby. That roof is a bit cryptic.

And I had the same trouble as you on Bonnie's. I still haven't lead the first pitch actually. That roof is NO give away. Good on you for finishing the climb.

I didn't read the rest yet. But I'll come back to it.

Thanks for sharing. oh, and nice pics too btw!

-Boy

Thanks man, but I still think it wouldn't be 5.9 if that awkward corner didn't precede the roof. The awkward corner is actually the kick in the nuts before the roof gets to you, because you expect the roof to be the crux and it isn't really. At least it's not different than a lot of roofs there.


Gmburns2000


Jul 24, 2009, 11:59 PM
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cracklover wrote:
RolonRolon wrote:
Wrote this a bit ago and dont' think I ever posted it. Nothing exciting but a very fun climb..

Friday, June 26th 2009

Today, Gabe and I went to Eldo canyon.

^^^ Is different Gabe.

Just to clarify, since there aren't many Gabes that I know...

GO

good thing that you did, because i totally thought it was you. seriously, i did.Crazy


gblauer
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Aug 1, 2009, 10:55 PM
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Weekend isn't over yet, but, I thought I would post our Saturday adventures. We are climbing tomorrow, so more to follow.

I marked my 52nd birthday this weekend by skydiving with my husband and kids.

What a KICK! It's an awesome feeling to jump out of an airplane at 14,500 feet. It was colder than I thought it would be, it did not feel like falling and I was way calmer than I expected. Once the chute is delpoyed you have a very gentle sensation of floating to earth.

My kids really loved it, it was so special to do it with them. Made my jump that much sweeter.

So much fun. I highly recommend it.







Gmburns2000


Aug 2, 2009, 9:04 PM
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gblauer wrote:
Weekend isn't over yet, but, I thought I would post our Saturday adventures. We are climbing tomorrow, so more to follow.

I marked my 52nd birthday this weekend by skydiving with my husband and kids.

What a KICK! It's an awesome feeling to jump out of an airplane at 14,500 feet. It was colder than I thought it would be, it did not feel like falling and I was way calmer than I expected. Once the chute is delpoyed you have a very gentle sensation of floating to earth.

My kids really loved it, it was so special to do it with them. Made my jump that much sweeter.

So much fun. I highly recommend it.





That's awesome! congrats on that. now you have to be like Bush I and jump every year into your 80s.Cool


boymeetsrock


Aug 3, 2009, 1:34 PM
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Awesome Gail!!! Congrats on another spin around the sun. What a great way to celebrate!

I've been getting my weekend warior on so if people don't mind...

I took my dad (68 yrs old) climibing for the first time this weekend. We went to Den Rock in MA, which happens to be where I climbed outside and rappelled for the first time!

I haven't been there in forever. It was a neat little trip down memory lane. I was also really happy to be sharing not only climbing, but the first place I ever climbed, with my Dad.

And he did great in his new balance sneeks!! We tried out the nice little 5.4 on the "mail wall". The cold shuts at the top of the ledge made for very easy set up. The weather just held out for us. And Dad didn't bat an eye the whole time.

It was a really simple but GREAT day for me sharing this part of my life with my Dad. I look forward for taking him on a real adventure in the future!!!

-Wyeth


Gmburns2000


Aug 3, 2009, 1:43 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
Awesome Gail!!! Congrats on another spin around the sun. What a great way to celebrate!

I've been getting my weekend warior on so if people don't mind...

I took my dad (68 yrs old) climibing for the first time this weekend. We went to Den Rock in MA, which happens to be where I climbed outside and rappelled for the first time!

I haven't been there in forever. It was a neat little trip down memory lane. I was also really happy to be sharing not only climbing, but the first place I ever climbed, with my Dad.

And he did great in his new balance sneeks!! We tried out the nice little 5.4 on the "mail wall". The cold shuts at the top of the ledge made for very easy set up. The weather just held out for us. And Dad didn't bat an eye the whole time.

It was a really simple but GREAT day for me sharing this part of my life with my Dad. I look forward for taking him on a real adventure in the future!!!

-Wyeth

That's awesome. My dad has been making subtle suggestions that he'd like to try climbing someday. He's petrified of heights, so we'll see, but it's something I've always wanted to do with him.


boymeetsrock


Aug 3, 2009, 1:51 PM
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I think it is a rewarding experience for sure! Its a funny role reversal too, (teaching your Dad anything). I'd encourage you to give it a try. I'm sure he would appreciate the experience even if "climbing" didn't REALLY happen. Wink


gblauer
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Aug 3, 2009, 1:56 PM
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How old is your Dad?


Gmburns2000


Aug 3, 2009, 2:59 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
I think it is a rewarding experience for sure! Its a funny role reversal too, (teaching your Dad anything). I'd encourage you to give it a try. I'm sure he would appreciate the experience even if "climbing" didn't REALLY happen. Wink

I think I might at some point. I have a way of getting people used to the system when they first start out. It's easy on their minds.


Partner cracklover


Aug 3, 2009, 3:09 PM
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gblauer wrote:
How old is your Dad?

He said in his post - 68.

GO


boymeetsrock


Aug 3, 2009, 3:30 PM
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Yeah. My Dad is 68. I wasn't sure if you were asking me or Greg.

He is not much of an "outdoors man" in the camping/ mountaineering sence. But he is always working outside up on his or my sisters roof, or painting his house on his ladder scaffolds 25-30 off the ground.

He needed some help with a big tree limb recently. It needed to be cut with a chain saw (guess we could have invested the hours with a regular saw) while still attached high up in the tree. It took a little convincing, but I wasn't about to stand there and watch him up on the tree or on a ladder, so I went up. Gotta admit I was scared. And he woulda just went up there no complaints. The stuff he does scares me blind sometimes. hehe

Maybe that's where I get my adventurous spirit from? Cool


Gmburns2000


Aug 10, 2009, 5:01 PM
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This was from two weekends ago.

Why does Cannon hate me again? This is just another example of me having tough days where the Old Man used to live. Unsure


boymeetsrock


Aug 10, 2009, 5:30 PM
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Nice Greg!

Hey, am I crazy or is that article on the Climbing Magazine web site?


Gmburns2000


Aug 10, 2009, 5:56 PM
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Nope, not crazy. I've been on there since June. I'm splitting my posts between my normal blog and theirs.

Thanks. Tried climbing this weekend, though, and the ankle still hurts. Unsure Gonna have to take a couple of weeks off. Bummer, but that's the way it goes sometimes.


boymeetsrock


Aug 10, 2009, 6:14 PM
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Congrats on the Climbing gig!!

Sorry to hear the ankle is still soar. But do yourself the favor like your saying and rest.


Gmburns2000


Aug 10, 2009, 6:22 PM
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Thanks. Yeah, it's pretty cool. I'm enjoying it.

I doubt I'll climb again any time before the last weekend in Aug. That should be long enough.


Partner cracklover


Aug 10, 2009, 7:19 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Nope, not crazy. I've been on there since June. I'm splitting my posts between my normal blog and theirs.

Clicky?

GO


Gmburns2000


Aug 10, 2009, 7:35 PM
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fifth post above yours. Laugh


Gmburns2000


Aug 10, 2009, 7:36 PM
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but here is the overall blog page there.

http://www.climbing.com/...derblogs/greg_burns/

edit: the first link i posted just goes to the most recent post.


(This post was edited by Gmburns2000 on Aug 10, 2009, 7:36 PM)


ratherbe


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ďAn Unexpected CrusadeĒ or ďWhen One Climb Equals Enough Adventure for A WeekendĒ

In hindsight, the goals for the weekend might have been a bit ambitious for the mere weekend warrior and her injured-ankle partner. So the plan on Saturday was to hit Whitehorse and do the first three pitches of Children's Crusade, rap down and then go do Lost Souls. A few weeks ago, we'd done Hotter Than Hell and Inferno, so I was thinking another 5.9 and then pushing it with a 10a would be possible, even though I haven't done a ton of Whitehorse climbing.

So we walked up to Children's Crusade and I looked at the first bolt way, way, way up there. Sure, it's an easy walk up the dike... but it's a sideways walk. And the wall bulges out a little bit at one point. I feel really shaky and unsettled the whole way up. I clip the piton, then make the half move required to clip the bolt a few feet up and right of the piton. Rest. Breathe. Scope out the moves to the next bolt. With a sketchy step down and a move up on very thin face holds, I gain the next good stance and clip the second bolt, noting the bail 'biner left on the bolt. A glance up and the third bolt looks a mile away and the good holds only last for about 5 more feet. Um. Bail 'biner. Unfortunately, I am impressionable and have to admit that it crosses my mind that if someone else had to bail here, maybe I do too. I move up shakily, gaining sloping holds and am convinced there are no further hand holds and am petrified of falling. I know, it's a bolt, but it feels like it will be just too far a fall. I down climb and then hang and then bail.

After some time has passed, I decide I HAVE to get on it again. At the second bolt again. I make the moves to the slopers then convince myself to let go, fall. Ok, I got that out of the way. This time, when I get to the slopers, I think about doing another exorcise-the-demon fall, but then I just decide to go for it. I work out the moves and suddenly I've clipped the third bolt. Another glance up and the next bolt again looks a mile away, but the holds look decent and I decide to only pay attention to the next two moves, then the next two and so on. And I'm quickly to the bolt. Next, I go up and traverse to the anchors, continuing to only pay attention to the immediate moves and block out the distance I've gone or still have to go. I'm at the anchors. More emotionally drained than ever before on a climb. I eye the second pitch as my partner works his way up the first. I'm not sure I want to continue, but if I don't, I'll have to come back and do it again some day.

The second pitch had some thin scary moves off the belay, but after that, it consisted of a very enjoyable route finding adventure. I wove my way back and forth, following the path of least resistance and gear placements. It was exciting and fun, pausing to read the rock and determine what would be the best way to gain the next few feet. Eventually, I gain the belay ledge and begin bringing up my partner. Again, I eye the next pitch as he works his way up. Again, looking at the climb ahead, I'm not sure I want to continue but I'm sure I don't want this last pitch hanging over me, unfinished.

Throughout the entire climb, Greg provided excellent support and encouragement and I started up the third and final pitch, loving having the crack for protection but cursing the pain in my toes from the crack! Then I'm at the top of the crack and can see the anchors. And nothing between. No bolt. No way to protect the next moves. My next good hand hold 6 or 8 inches too far away to reach from my current stance. I pretend I'm stepping on to some little nubbin and reach up to use what looks like an intermediate hold, but is actually crap and yet my hand sticks and I manage to gain the good hand hold. Now I need to move up and right, on non-existent feet. Oh, another mantle, I'm starting to get good at these. I move into it, but start to feel my right foot slip as my left foot fights with my left hand for room on the hold. I get it just in time to avoid an ugly fall onto the low angle crack below, where my last protection is. Every fiber of my body is shaking so hard that the next move is harder, even though it's not. I breathe and get gear in and then make the final easy moves to the anchor. I'm so glad to be done. And so glad to have done it.


(This post was edited by ratherbe on Aug 11, 2009, 2:02 AM)


Gmburns2000


Aug 11, 2009, 1:56 AM
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Now that's weekend warrior material. I bet you're the kind that doesn't really need the pep-talk though. I bet once you went up you had it in your head that you were going to make it to the top.

Well done and thanks for sharing.

edited to say: oops, didn't realize you mentioned me in the writeup. You didn't in the facebook note, so I didn't want to steal your thunder here. Tongue

PS - thanks for leaving the part about the forgotten ropes out. Crazy


(This post was edited by Gmburns2000 on Aug 11, 2009, 1:58 AM)


ratherbe


Aug 11, 2009, 2:07 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Now that's weekend warrior material. I bet you're the kind that doesn't really need the pep-talk though. I bet once you went up you had it in your head that you were going to make it to the top.

Well done and thanks for sharing.

edited to say: oops, didn't realize you mentioned me in the writeup. You didn't in the facebook note, so I didn't want to steal your thunder here. Tongue

PS - thanks for leaving the part about the forgotten ropes out. Crazy

Crap, I forgot to mention we did this without ropes? Tongue


Gmburns2000


Aug 11, 2009, 2:16 AM
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ratherbe wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
Now that's weekend warrior material. I bet you're the kind that doesn't really need the pep-talk though. I bet once you went up you had it in your head that you were going to make it to the top.

Well done and thanks for sharing.

edited to say: oops, didn't realize you mentioned me in the writeup. You didn't in the facebook note, so I didn't want to steal your thunder here. Tongue

PS - thanks for leaving the part about the forgotten ropes out. Crazy

Crap, I forgot to mention we did this without ropes? Tongue

'cause, um, yeah, that's the real story. Shocked


boymeetsrock


Aug 11, 2009, 2:43 AM
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Sweet!!!


gblauer
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Aug 17, 2009, 12:34 PM
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The weekend Report.

I headed for the gunks last Wednesday night with plans to climb Thursday through Sunday. So what happens? I wake up to pouring rain on Thursday monring, with all climbing hopes dashed, I walked the carriage road loop. It rained all day Thursday until late in the afternoon. I contemplated running up to the cliff to see if there was anything dry, but, I didn't have a partner, so I just stayed home.

Friday was beautiful, albeit hot, sunny and humid. At least it wasn't raining. We hit the nears and enjoyed a nice warm up on Birdland and then headed to Elder Cleavage. My that was one very hard first pitch. Awkward, slippery and strange. Not sure I would repeat. P2 on the other hand was quite lovely. Easy climbing up to the roof, a few tricky moves to the roof and then you pull the roof with a surprisingly easy move. A fun climb, but, not sure I loved p1. We wrapped up Friday on Alphonse, a mild, happy climb that can be done in a single pitch to avoid the belay.

I was uber cranky on Saturday (hormones perhaps?) We started on Classic, always fun, but, somehow I felt "off" and didn't like the feel of the rock. It felt slimy, greasy and slippery. We then headed over to Baby. It was actually the first time that I have ever done Baby and felt good about it. I used real off width technique, got my feet in there, chicken winged my arm and then finally got my whole leg in the off width. Hooray, I think I can easily lead this one! Then came Miss Bailey to Big Chimney. I hated this climb. I hated the chimneys (I have no idea what I was thinking when I suggested the climb.) The only nice pitch on that climb was P3 of Miss Bailey, a very thoughtful 5.6 that had some suprises. The only thing I can say about the chimneys is that they offered respite form the heat. We finished up on the That Nice Seven where I ran laps to try and chase away my crankiness.

Yesterday was a bit of a scorcher. It was hot, sunny and humid by 9AM. We ran to the arrow wall so that we could warm up on Three Doves and then hit Feast of Fools. Three Doves is great, albeit some tricky think face climbing on P2. Feast of Fools was amazing. P1 is sustained and it just keeps on giving. As the second I cleaned all the gear enroute and was proud to have sent the thing without any hang time. I even cleaned and racked all of the slings! All that gym climbing up the overhangs really helped me on this climb. My feet actually cut at the first roof...very dramatic! P2 was really sort of a two move wonder, worth doing.

Since I had to leave early (on the road by 4), we ran back out and climbed The Blackout over by Betty. Now the book says it's 5.9 G, but how can that be if there is a 5.8 R section on P3? Must be yet another typo. P1 is forgettable, but P2 and P3 are where it's at. P2 has a nice traverse (big hands, little feet) and P3 has that spicy run out to a little roof with a bolt. The roof was the mildist roof I pulled all weekend.

All in all a nice weekend of climbing even though I was really cranky. Hopefully next weekend will be better!


Gmburns2000


Aug 17, 2009, 1:34 PM
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How was the rock in the 'Gunks? Was it hot enough for the rock to sweat?


gblauer
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Aug 17, 2009, 1:53 PM
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Friday and Sunday were fine. Saturday I felt like the rock was geasy, sweaty and slimy.


Gmburns2000


Aug 17, 2009, 1:56 PM
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what the rock soaketh after the rains it sweateths on hot days.


boymeetsrock


Aug 17, 2009, 9:16 PM
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Nice. That's a good few days of climbing despite "having a case of the Monday's".

Thanks for sharing! I'll have to check out some of those pitches.

btw, were the chimney's crappy 'cause you were grumpy, or were they just plain crappy?


gblauer
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Aug 18, 2009, 12:56 AM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
btw, were the chimney's crappy 'cause you were grumpy, or were they just plain crappy?

I think if you like chimneys you will love these climbs. Personally, I learned that I really don't like chimneys.


AntinJ


Aug 19, 2009, 3:59 AM
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Nice Gail - Three Doves is one of my favorite climbs at the gunks! I was there on Saturday and it was a scorcher..


Gmburns2000


Aug 21, 2009, 2:24 PM
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Here's my version of my recent trip to NoCo with Ratherbe. She was a trooper, and the weekend turned out to be a good one.

Ratherbe's Return


boymeetsrock


Aug 21, 2009, 5:55 PM
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Go Ratherbe! Way to send Lady!


Gmburns2000


Aug 21, 2009, 5:59 PM
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she was good that day. it was a tough start for her, but once she got pissed off enough she just went up and did it.


boymeetsrock


Aug 21, 2009, 6:11 PM
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I've definitely been in similar positions. Sometimes you just have to decide to get it done, and then employ tunnel vision in order to focus on the task at hand and block out the distractions.

Good on her for weighing the risks and pushing through to success!

Hope the ankle heals up soon.







And Greg, next time bring the damn ropes dude! Tongue You owe "Savior" a 12 pack at the least!

edit speeling Crazy


(This post was edited by boymeetsrock on Aug 21, 2009, 6:12 PM)


ratherbe


Aug 21, 2009, 6:11 PM
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Thanks. It was a good weekend.

There is no way I was only a foot shy of that third bolt, it took a few moves to get to the point of reaching it to clip. I think it was at least 3 feet away.


boymeetsrock


Aug 21, 2009, 6:14 PM
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Glad it all worked out! I added another post above, just before you submitted.

Congrats again! I feel that breaking through a mental barrier is a bigger success than breaking through physical barriers, personally.


ratherbe


Aug 21, 2009, 6:19 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
Glad it all worked out! I added another post above, just before you submitted.

Congrats again! I feel that breaking through a mental barrier is a bigger success than breaking through physical barriers, personally.

Agreed. I think that sometimes breaking through a mental barrier is part of or helps in breaking through a physical barrier.


Gmburns2000


Aug 21, 2009, 6:27 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
I've definitely been in similar positions. Sometimes you just have to decide to get it done, and then employ tunnel vision in order to focus on the task at hand and block out the distractions.

Good on her for weighing the risks and pushing through to success!

Hope the ankle heals up soon.







And Greg, next time bring the damn ropes dude! Tongue You owe "Savior" a 12 pack at the least!

edit speeling Crazy

I totally owe him, too. Oh man, what a fuck up that almost turned into.

Ratherbe has already friended him on Facebook, so I'm sure I'll get a chance to pay him back (I was a bit of a dumbfuck for not sitting down with he and his friend for dinner when we returned the rope. I was tired, sore, and wanted a cheap / quick meal. I totally owe him).


Gmburns2000


Aug 21, 2009, 6:28 PM
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ratherbe wrote:
Thanks. It was a good weekend.

There is no way I was only a foot shy of that third bolt, it took a few moves to get to the point of reaching it to clip. I think it was at least 3 feet away.

I'll split the difference and settle on two feet.


gblauer
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Sep 1, 2009, 3:29 AM
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Rain on Friday and all day Saturday left the gunks soaked on Sunday. Even though it was soaked, it seemed to be "take your kid climbing" day and we walked up to 10 climbs before finding an open climb. I was rather grumpy when we started up 3 pines. Woudn't you know it, it was soaked from the ground up. Although it's an easy climb, it's not one you want to grease off of due to the ledges etc. So carefully picked my way up the first two pitches so as not to slip off and kill myself. Mitch took the remaining pitches and then he had to leave to drive back to PHL. I planned on staying the night, as I had arranged to fly out of Stewart Newburgh airport on Monday night. I Spent the rest of the day following my friend MIke up some righteous climbs, including Son of easy ok Jean, Splastic and Welcome to the Gunks. Let me tell you Michael and I do some good tens, but, Welcome to the Gunks was the toughest 10 I have done at the gunks. Several cruxes, starting with a slab that is really hard for shorties followed by 5 roofs. NIce way to end the day.


Gmburns2000


Sep 1, 2009, 1:03 PM
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gblauer wrote:
Rain on Friday and all day Saturday left the gunks soaked on Sunday. Even though it was soaked, it seemed to be "take your kid climbing" day and we walked up to 10 climbs before finding an open climb. I was rather grumpy when we started up 3 pines. Woudn't you know it, it was soaked from the ground up. Although it's an easy climb, it's not one you want to grease off of due to the ledges etc. So carefully picked my way up the first two pitches so as not to slip off and kill myself. Mitch took the remaining pitches and then he had to leave to drive back to PHL. I planned on staying the night, as I had arranged to fly out of Stewart Newburgh airport on Monday night. I Spent the rest of the day following my friend MIke up some righteous climbs, including Son of easy ok Jean, Splastic and Welcome to the Gunks. Let me tell you Michael and I do some good tens, but, Welcome to the Gunks was the toughest 10 I have done at the gunks. Several cruxes, starting with a slab that is really hard for shorties followed by 5 roofs. NIce way to end the day.

Wow, that's a good last day. Well done.

I was supposed to hit the 'Gunks this past weekend but got scared away by the rain. I heard some folks made it out there, but it sounds as if the forecast was spot on.


AntinJ


Sep 2, 2009, 1:54 AM
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The forecast was spot-on indeed. I got to the MUA on Friday morning around 10am to set-up a bombproof shelter that would withstand the predicted inclement weather. I met my good friend Andy (AJ) around noon who had just completed the drive from Washington D.C. We finished setting up camp and had begun the hike down the Carriage road before 1pm. Our first climb was Snooky's Return. About halfway through the 2nd pitch we could see rain clouds moving in fast. Once at the rap-station, the skies open up on us. By the time we reached terra firma, we were completely drenched so we decided to keep climbing. We headed to the Uberfall area to climb some easy single pitch stuff; Horseman, Rhododendron, Clover and Laurel to name a few. The rain subsided around 5 pm, so we headed over to the Nears to climb Gelsa, which AJ had yet to experience. It seemed as if things were going to stay dry, but just as we were finishing the last pitch we got caught in another down pour. By the time we rapped off, it was time to change into some dry clothes and grab some warm food and drink at the Guilded Otter. We met our third climbing partner (PW) there and then headed back to the MUA to start a much needed campfire.

We woke up Saturday hoping for silence, but of course the sound of raindrops on rain-flies filled the air. We headed to split rock to wash up, and then cruised into town for some warm coffee and breakfast at the Muddy Cup where we would discuss climbing options for the day. We eventually came to a decision. It urks me to admit this, but we did indeed explore the wonderful "Inner Wall Rock Gym" in downtown New Paltz. I feel especially bad for AJ, who just drove 6 hours to climb indoors, but we really had a good time there (All things considered of course). We monitored the weather constantly hoping for a chance to run to the cliffs for a quick route, but the rain persisted. We headed to Mexicali Blue for dinner and discussed plans for Sunday. On our way back to the MUA, the rain weakened to a drizzle. We were determined not to allow a climb-less day go by, so around 8pm we racked up and headed to the cliffs. None of us had ever climbed Madame G's before, so it was easy to select a route that would appeal to all of us and be climbable in the rain. The climbing was great and we all had a terrific time! Just as we were rapping down, the bad weather picked up yet again. We packed up our gear and jogged back down the carriage road to the West Trapps Parking lot. We were in the car just before 10pm, soaked, but psyched to have squeezed in another Gunk's classic!

Sunday was a relatively short day at the Gunks, but the sun was shining and many of the climbs had begun to dry out. Since neither AJ nor PW had climbed Shockley's Ceiling before, we started the day with that. Before we called it quits we managed to climb Shockley's, Pas De Deux, City Lights, and Lichen 40 Winks. When we finished climbing AJ headed back to DC, PW headed back to Boston and I headed to Rock & Snow for some MUCH needed cam lube! Although we didn't get a chance to climb the routes we had planned to, we still had a wonderful trip! "There's no such thing as bad conditions, just bad attitudes".

see you out there rain or shine,
Jason


PW, AJ, me




(This post was edited by AntinJ on Sep 2, 2009, 1:55 AM)


gblauer
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Sep 2, 2009, 2:08 AM
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Umm...climbing in the rain...not something I choose to do! Cudos to you for having a great time anyways.

Monday was a beautiful day at the gunks; 67 degrees, sunny and delightful. Add Overhanging Laybeck to your tick list (both pitches), its a ton of fun.


Gmburns2000


Sep 2, 2009, 2:12 AM
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Dude that's awesome! That's two reports from that weekend in the rain. I'm glad there's some more courageous-than-me people out there. You definitely had the right attitude. Cool


boymeetsrock


Sep 2, 2009, 3:45 AM
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Sweet!!!!


ratherbe


Sep 2, 2009, 10:51 AM
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Nice! I definitely have a bad attitude about rain, way to make the most of it!

My first time to the Dacks coming up this weekend... that should beget a WW report, stay tuned!


gblauer
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Sep 2, 2009, 11:41 AM
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Ratherbe, I want your lead head. h


ratherbe


Sep 2, 2009, 5:35 PM
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gblauer wrote:
Ratherbe, I want your lead head. h

Really? Why?


blueeyedclimber


Sep 4, 2009, 4:34 PM
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ratherbe wrote:
gblauer wrote:
Ratherbe, I want your lead head. h

Really? Why?

Jen, you are a much better leader than you give yourself credit for. TIffany, too. Me, I probably think I'm better than I actually am. Cool


blueeyedclimber


Sep 4, 2009, 4:35 PM
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ratherbe wrote:
Nice! I definitely have a bad attitude about rain, way to make the most of it!

My first time to the Dacks coming up this weekend... that should beget a WW report, stay tuned!

Maybe if I can actually remember the camera this time, I might have one for Acadia this weekend.

Josh


losbill


Sep 4, 2009, 11:53 PM
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Jen --- You are one climbing hardwoman. I still remember your grit, determination and skill in leading SOEO a couple of years ago one damp Sunday morning.

Gail, go ahead; climbing like Jen is a good thing.

Bill


Gmburns2000


Sep 7, 2009, 5:11 PM
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Well, I haven't posted for a while due to various reasons. They're all pretty much listed in my newest post.

Ankles Galore!

I'm trying a different pace this time, too.


ratherbe


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The Adirondacks were beautiful and curiously uncrowded on this long weekend of unbelievably great weather. We hit Poke-O on Friday and Monday, Barkeater on Saturday, and Beer Walls on Sunday. Things I learned:

--linking climbs may not be as obvious as the book makes it look. Trying to combine Puppies on the Edge and Discord left me running out a easy traverse, making hard moves on marginal gear and then reversing it all when I just didn't like the going forward moves.

--y'all may be right about my abilities being greater than I give myself credit for. I definitely didn't expect to successfully finish a 10a that was shutting down my partner, but that was a highlight of the weekend. And it was a great move. (Lick it Up, 5.10a, Barkeater).

--if there is a rap option off the first pitch, there's a good chance that the second pitch is absolute crap. Good news, I got to lead the good pitch! (Turbocharge 5.10a, Lower Beer Walls).

--when you're tired from a day of climbing, leading an outstanding pitch can be insanely rejuvenating. (Rockaholic, 5.8, Lower Beer Walls).

--I have to go back.


AntinJ


Sep 8, 2009, 12:32 AM
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Sounds Awesome Jen - Makes we want to get out there!


gblauer
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Sep 8, 2009, 4:22 PM
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Okay, I woke up on Friday and I had no idea where I was. (no...it wasn't due to drinking...) I knew I was in a hotel room, but...what city? (Nashville) That's how much traveling I have been doing. I was simply too exhausted to go up to the gunks. So I stayed home and prepared for our third annual Birdsboro Climb and Clean (fund raiser for our local climbing area). On Monday I actually did some sport climbing at Birdsboro. There are lots of new lines, and I did a few of them. But what I really wanted to do was hit my nemesis, Laid Back and Well Hung (11d). I watched my friend Ted float the climb and figured that I would do same. (after all, I have been training rigorously...). Try as I might, the burly techincal crux of Laid Back kicked my butt. It's a long reachy move, followed by a long, stemming drop knee and several more burly/technical moves to the next stance/bolt. I managed to make it through the crux after several attempts, but, I felt no stronger on it than the first time I attempted it. (Well, maybe a bit better...)

Ted's comment..."how can you expect to send this thing when you only get on it once a year?" He's right! I guess I will try again at the Climb and Clean (if I get a chance do break from all of my other duties). Next weekend: The Gunks.


Gmburns2000


Sep 8, 2009, 5:21 PM
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gblauer wrote:
Next weekend: The Gunks.

Maybe we'll see you there. I'm going to give it a go this weekend. I haven't really climbed since Cannon.


blueeyedclimber


Sep 9, 2009, 7:29 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
ratherbe wrote:
Nice! I definitely have a bad attitude about rain, way to make the most of it!

My first time to the Dacks coming up this weekend... that should beget a WW report, stay tuned!

Maybe if I can actually remember the camera this time, I might have one for Acadia this weekend.

Josh

It's coming. Just waiting for pics to be approved. Smile


blueeyedclimber


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http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ost=2204262;#2204262

Wink


Gmburns2000


Sep 11, 2009, 3:48 PM
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'bout time!

Nice TR and thanks for sharing. I'll be up there next weekend, but as usual, not for climbing.


gblauer
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Sep 14, 2009, 2:39 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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A milestone for me!

I can go to my grave happy. I finally lead my first gunks 5.9!!! Ok, I know I am not a real Gunks 9 climber, but, it's a start right?

So, we arrived at the gunks on Friday in a fairly intense rain storm. Saturday dawned dark and gray. Everything was really wet. As the day progressed, the clouds persisted and the crag stayed pretty wet. We were planning to do some climbing at around 3PM, but, as soon as we started out the door it started to sprinkle. Plans dashed, we gave up on Saturday climbing. Instead we focused on errands and make a great dinner for some of our gunks friends.

Sunday was absolutely beautiful. Blue skies, sun, 75+ degrees. It actually got HOT. I warmed up on Bunny (first time it has been open all year, there is usually a jam up on Bunny) and felt really great clearing the roof. After finishing Bunny, I decided it was time to lead red Cabbage. Enough waffling, it was time to man up and do it. I knew that if I failed, I could always get my gear. So, up I went. I did my first 9, cool, calm and collected. I felt great, it felt wonderful to make the moves unencumbered by a top rope. I pulled the crux, turned the arete on to the face and finished up the climb. So much fun and such a sense of accomplishement.

Ok, I went from a sublime HIGH to an extreme (whiny) low. We decided to climb proctoscope (5.9+) to Feast of Fools (10a) to the 2nd pitch of Nurses Aid (10a MA). P1 and P2 go down like butter, but, P2 of Nurses Aid scares the hell out of me. It's all good to the traverse. But, man, that traverse is uber scary for a shorty. I whined and debated and whined some more. I just couldn't force myself to step out into the abyss. Finally, I just manned up and made the moves past the slopery horizontal on the positive edge around the corner. It's really hard to get started (the horzontal under the roof is really slopery and you have to reach really far to get to the good edges). and once you get started, you have to move. There are hands only, no feet. That said, I am short enough that I could get my feet on the wall and in a frog position scrunch along the crack. It wasn't easy and it was hard pulling the gear. My sox foot plus partner campused much of the traverse. As asecond, if you fall on the roof, you are not getting back on, there is nothing but air underneath you. Sure glad I didn't fall!


(This post was edited by gblauer on Sep 14, 2009, 2:41 AM)


Gmburns2000


Sep 14, 2009, 3:15 AM
Post #152 of 1159 (28391 views)
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Re: [gblauer] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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gblauer wrote:
A milestone for me!

I can go to my grave happy. I finally lead my first gunks 5.9!!! Ok, I know I am not a real Gunks 9 climber, but, it's a start right?

So, we arrived at the gunks on Friday in a fairly intense rain storm. Saturday dawned dark and gray. Everything was really wet. As the day progressed, the clouds persisted and the crag stayed pretty wet. We were planning to do some climbing at around 3PM, but, as soon as we started out the door it started to sprinkle. Plans dashed, we gave up on Saturday climbing. Instead we focused on errands and make a great dinner for some of our gunks friends.

Sunday was absolutely beautiful. Blue skies, sun, 75+ degrees. It actually got HOT. I warmed up on Bunny (first time it has been open all year, there is usually a jam up on Bunny) and felt really great clearing the roof. After finishing Bunny, I decided it was time to lead red Cabbage. Enough waffling, it was time to man up and do it. I knew that if I failed, I could always get my gear. So, up I went. I did my first 9, cool, calm and collected. I felt great, it felt wonderful to make the moves unencumbered by a top rope. I pulled the crux, turned the arete on to the face and finished up the climb. So much fun and such a sense of accomplishement.

Ok, I went from a sublime HIGH to an extreme (whiny) low. We decided to climb proctoscope (5.9+) to Feast of Fools (10a) to the 2nd pitch of Nurses Aid (10a MA). P1 and P2 go down like butter, but, P2 of Nurses Aid scares the hell out of me. It's all good to the traverse. But, man, that traverse is uber scary for a shorty. I whined and debated and whined some more. I just couldn't force myself to step out into the abyss. Finally, I just manned up and made the moves past the slopery horizontal on the positive edge around the corner. It's really hard to get started (the horzontal under the roof is really slopery and you have to reach really far to get to the good edges). and once you get started, you have to move. There are hands only, no feet. That said, I am short enough that I could get my feet on the wall and in a frog position scrunch along the crack. It wasn't easy and it was hard pulling the gear. My sox foot plus partner campused much of the traverse. As asecond, if you fall on the roof, you are not getting back on, there is nothing but air underneath you. Sure glad I didn't fall!

That's awesome! See, you've got a good lead head, too. You just have to find it. Wink

Looks as if you've got a good second head, too. Laugh

Congrats!


wonderwoman


Sep 14, 2009, 3:22 AM
Post #153 of 1159 (28388 views)
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Awesome job, Gail! I hung on Red Cabbage. Not an easy lead, but loved the climb!


ratherbe


Sep 14, 2009, 10:47 AM
Post #154 of 1159 (28376 views)
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Re: [gblauer] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Woohoo!!! Way to go, Gail!


blueeyedclimber


Sep 14, 2009, 12:38 PM
Post #155 of 1159 (28368 views)
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Re: [gblauer] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Nice job! As for Nurses Aid, I think the second pitch is harder than the first. I just wasn't expecting that on a 10a. Mad


gblauer
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Sep 15, 2009, 2:45 PM
Post #156 of 1159 (28334 views)
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Monday Climbing

Monday was a beautiful day at the gunks. It was warm in the sun, cool down at the belay. I had the privlege of climbing with a good friend and new leader. She did her first and second leads ever. We started on Betty and she did a fine job. She moved like a trad leader, carefully planning her moves, make the moves, getting to a stance and placing her gear. It was a pleasure to watch her climb. (I usually see her seconding at her limit, which is very different.) She brought me up and we simul rapped and looked at her gear (quite good in fact). We then went over to Easy O and I put it up, had her follow, simul rapped and then she lead it. She did really really well. I was very proud of her. By the way, she is 62 years old and has only been climbing for a few years.

After that I climbed with my rope gun, Mike. We warmed up on Pas de deux, a beautiful warm up with some thin face climbing, leading to some terrific jugs on P2. From there we moved to Pink Laurel. Wow, that climb is uber polished. Truth be told, I really didn't enjoy the crux moves. The rock is practically vulcanized with all of the rubbber from climbing shoes. Once through the crux, it's a fun climb with interesting moves. In fact I think the upper part of the climb favors a shorter climber (for once...). I guess I need to do it again to see if I can be more efficient through the crux. I also had to clean a lot of gear (Micheal hadn't done this climb before and placed an uncharateristic amount of gear through the crux). At any rate, it's not a 9 that I will be quick to lead. We finished up on P38 (i had to leave early to catch a flight out of SWF). I loved P38. It's technical, requires good balance and it's awkward. For me the crux was well beyond the stated technical crux; it was way up at the headwall, trying to navigate the pebbles. I felt quite strong on this climb.

No Gunks for me next week. I am running our fundraiser for our local climbing area in Birdsboro PA. Our fundraisers have been very successful in the past. This year I was able to convince the quarry owner to fund a porta potty in perpetuity. It's a great addition to our climbing area and really needed. We are expecting 100+ heads, so hope for good weather!


blueeyedclimber


Sep 15, 2009, 3:10 PM
Post #157 of 1159 (28328 views)
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Re: [gblauer] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Looks like it's supposed to be nice this weekend. Sunny and 60's.

BTW, P38 is fun, but Stirrup trouble to the left is much better. It is much more sustained.

Good luck with the fundraiser. I think we'll be at the Gunks.

Josh


Gmburns2000


Sep 15, 2009, 3:24 PM
Post #158 of 1159 (28323 views)
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Re: [gblauer] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]