Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
first wall after age 40?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


swoopee


Feb 23, 2010, 9:07 PM
Post #26 of 44 (3677 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 560

Re: [guangzhou] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I keep looking at both of those climbs and dream of the day that I am able to climb them. 62? That's 13 years away. I can't wait that long.


guangzhou


Feb 24, 2010, 2:13 AM
Post #27 of 44 (3651 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [swoopee] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

swoopee wrote:
I keep looking at both of those climbs and dream of the day that I am able to climb them. 62? That's 13 years away. I can't wait that long.

Not sure what your climbing level is, but GM is doable in a day pretty easy. A slight variation would be ti hike in the day beofre, do the few couple/few pitches and rap to the ground on fixed rope, wake up early and jumar ti the high point, climb to top from there.

After the roof pitch, the rest is fairly quick and easy climbing.

A one day push from ground to summit is very doable too. French free the first 5.11 pitch with 48 inch runner for the traverse.

Eman


guangzhou


Feb 24, 2010, 2:16 AM
Post #28 of 44 (3650 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [csproul] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

one more thought, if you do bivy under the roof, you should lower everything to the ground and climb the rest of the route without hauling on the second day. Walk off, grad your stuff when you are back on the ground. Hauling on the second day would be horrid.

Enjoy.


swoopee


Feb 24, 2010, 5:06 PM
Post #29 of 44 (3631 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 560

Re: [guangzhou] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks. Smile


guangzhou


Feb 25, 2010, 12:54 AM
Post #30 of 44 (3595 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [swoopee] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

swoopee wrote:
Thanks. Smile

No worries. If you're into a bit of Sufering, or Mountaineering, you could try a winter ascent of those routes.


csproul


Feb 25, 2010, 12:56 AM
Post #31 of 44 (3595 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769

Re: [swoopee] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

As soon as the weather starts improving, Looking Glass routes are on my list of things to begin my laid climbing earning curve. Let me know if you want to get on the curve too! I am reasonably confident I should be able to muster my way up GM or IA by the end of the season this year.


wallwombat


Feb 25, 2010, 1:20 AM
Post #32 of 44 (3593 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 727

Re: [mar_leclerc] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

mar_leclerc wrote:
Im sorry... I did my first wall before the age of 16...

but I don't think it couted because it was only about 15 pithes and I freed all but a short bolt ladder.

Nice piece of random spray there. Unimpressed


csproul


Feb 25, 2010, 3:45 AM
Post #33 of 44 (3577 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769

Re: [wallwombat] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

wallwombat wrote:
mar_leclerc wrote:
Im sorry... I did my first wall before the age of 16...

but I don't think it couted because it was only about 15 pithes and I freed all but a short bolt ladder.

Nice piece of random spray there. Unimpressed
I wouldn't call 15 pitches of (mostly) free climbing a "wall". I was thinking more like something more like grade V/VI, and involving substantial aid. I have done a good number of grade IV free climbs and a couple of grade V's and I am still under no illusion that I have done any wall climbing.


guangzhou


Feb 25, 2010, 4:22 AM
Post #34 of 44 (3571 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [csproul] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

csproul wrote:
As soon as the weather starts improving, Looking Glass routes are on my list of things to begin my laid climbing earning curve. Let me know if you want to get on the curve too! I am reasonably confident I should be able to muster my way up GM or IA by the end of the season this year.

If it's not busy, you can practice you aid on Corn Flake Crack too.


guangzhou


Apr 13, 2010, 7:05 AM
Post #35 of 44 (3459 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [csproul] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

csproul wrote:
So, I'm getting a little older (I'm 38 now) and have been climbing for a good number of years. I have been recently getting the bug to try some real aid climbing and maybe eventually a wall. I've done a number of grade IV/V free climbs over the years, and have done routes where I had to aid small sections, but I have never intentionally targeted aid climbing. I want to hear about others who have gotten into aid later in life. Anyone done their first wall after the age of 40?

I have to say, I am 38 and I don't consider myself old. Actually, my climbing is still improving. 40 is still young.


csproul


Apr 13, 2010, 12:36 PM
Post #36 of 44 (3447 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769

Re: [guangzhou] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I think some aspects of my climbing are also getting better at 38 (39 in a couple weeks). But there are some aspects of my fitness that are getting worse. My knees are starting to have issues. And I don't have the same endurance I once had. I also don't have the opportunity to have very long climbing days (unless I get creative); like long multi-pitch/big mountains. I think walls also require some suffering, and although I like to suffer, I'm not sure I have the same tolerance that I had 10 years ago. All that said, I think that a wall after 40 is a very attainable goal, and I'm well on my way to making it happen, maybe even before 40.


dingus


Apr 13, 2010, 1:51 PM
Post #37 of 44 (3442 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398

Re: [csproul] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Big walls are ALL suffer.

DMT


Partner xtrmecat


Apr 13, 2010, 4:48 PM
Post #38 of 44 (3422 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 548

Re: [dingus] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dingus wrote:
Big walls are ALL suffer.

DMT


Mostly true, but I find complete serenity from moment to moment, every once in a while while up there. I sleep like a baby due to the work involved, sometimes, but find the rest way more rewarding than when on the deck. That maybe a little perverse, but suffering may bring about an appreciation like nothing else can. Kind of how do you really know how sweet something is without tasting something a bit bitter.

Moof's saying to "embrace the pain", is not only destined to make it to a t-shirt, but next month is walling month, and that phrase will probably go through my mind no less than 50 times every day, and when the moments of serenity and peace are being experienced, that should generate a good chuckle.

Solo'd a wall way after 40, did one this winter at 50, and going for a month with two big Yosemite objectives to be realized. 40 is really just getting into the wall season of ones life. I am finding the alpine is too big of a day, and cragging is ok, but without good people around can get boring and humdrum, even doing fa's. Big Walls get the stoke going like no other climbing related activity can, still, after a half century.

Go get your dreams, 40, 50 or 62. Nothing can be as bad as sitting in a rocking chair, too crippled up to do anything but say, "you know, I wish I would have............

Bob


dingus


Apr 13, 2010, 5:05 PM
Post #39 of 44 (3419 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398

Re: [xtrmecat] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm not saying there isn't value in suffering. I am just painting the wall black, like it should be.

I suffer, therefore I am.

DMT


guangzhou


Apr 14, 2010, 2:07 AM
Post #40 of 44 (3388 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [csproul] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

csproul wrote:
I think some aspects of my climbing are also getting better at 38 (39 in a couple weeks). But there are some aspects of my fitness that are getting worse.

Do you climb as often or have you reduced your climbing? Workout as often? Just currious, nothing more.
In reply to:
My knees are starting to have issues. And I don't have the same endurance I once had. I also don't have the opportunity to have very long climbing days (unless I get creative); like long multi-pitch/big mountains.

Getting older does mean I need to stretch more. I barely do, but I know I should. My knees have been a problem ever since I did my service in the Army. Endurance and long day, I just wonder, are you climbing as often? Working out as often? Biking as often?/ I think as we get older, we do less active and become more passive. Depending on our careers, this is true too.

In reply to:
I think walls also require some suffering, and although I like to suffer, I'm not sure I have the same tolerance that I had 10 years ago. All that said, I think that a wall after 40 is a very attainable goal, and I'm well on my way to making it happen, maybe even before 40.

I'm not sure about suffering. Some discomfort, yes. Ready to suffer yes, but not required. Not more so than backpacking or camping. Walls can be very physical, but you can aid the leaning tower and make hauling fairly painless, sleeping fairly comfortable, and rain doesn't matter. Sleep on the summit and negotiate the descent in daylight to prevent suffering.


swoopee


Apr 14, 2010, 1:54 PM
Post #41 of 44 (3278 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 560

Re: [xtrmecat] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

xtrmecat wrote:
dingus wrote:
Big walls are ALL suffer.

DMT


Mostly true, but I find complete serenity from moment to moment, every once in a while while up there. I sleep like a baby due to the work involved, sometimes, but find the rest way more rewarding than when on the deck. That maybe a little perverse, but suffering may bring about an appreciation like nothing else can. Kind of how do you really know how sweet something is without tasting something a bit bitter.

Moof's saying to "embrace the pain", is not only destined to make it to a t-shirt, but next month is walling month, and that phrase will probably go through my mind no less than 50 times every day, and when the moments of serenity and peace are being experienced, that should generate a good chuckle.

Solo'd a wall way after 40, did one this winter at 50, and going for a month with two big Yosemite objectives to be realized. 40 is really just getting into the wall season of ones life. I am finding the alpine is too big of a day, and cragging is ok, but without good people around can get boring and humdrum, even doing fa's. Big Walls get the stoke going like no other climbing related activity can, still, after a half century.

Go get your dreams, 40, 50 or 62. Nothing can be as bad as sitting in a rocking chair, too crippled up to do anything but say, "you know, I wish I would have............

Bob

Amen!


karmiclimber


Apr 14, 2010, 2:02 PM
Post #42 of 44 (3274 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2004
Posts: 1058

Re: [csproul] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

This is such an inspiring thread! I can't wait to read the trip report...makes me want to do a big wall too. I've always wanted to sleep ONE NIGHT on a portaledge on the rockface.


csproul


Apr 14, 2010, 2:58 PM
Post #43 of 44 (3261 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769

Re: [guangzhou] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

guangzhou wrote:
csproul wrote:
I think some aspects of my climbing are also getting better at 38 (39 in a couple weeks). But there are some aspects of my fitness that are getting worse.

Do you climb as often or have you reduced your climbing? Workout as often? Just currious, nothing more.
In reply to:
My knees are starting to have issues. And I don't have the same endurance I once had. I also don't have the opportunity to have very long climbing days (unless I get creative); like long multi-pitch/big mountains.

Getting older does mean I need to stretch more. I barely do, but I know I should. My knees have been a problem ever since I did my service in the Army. Endurance and long day, I just wonder, are you climbing as often? Working out as often? Biking as often?/ I think as we get older, we do less active and become more passive. Depending on our careers, this is true too.

In reply to:
I think walls also require some suffering, and although I like to suffer, I'm not sure I have the same tolerance that I had 10 years ago. All that said, I think that a wall after 40 is a very attainable goal, and I'm well on my way to making it happen, maybe even before 40.

I'm not sure about suffering. Some discomfort, yes. Ready to suffer yes, but not required. Not more so than backpacking or camping. Walls can be very physical, but you can aid the leaning tower and make hauling fairly painless, sleeping fairly comfortable, and rain doesn't matter. Sleep on the summit and negotiate the descent in daylight to prevent suffering.
I climb as often and as well as I ever have. The big difference is that I used to have easy access to long routes (CA and CO), and being in NC now, I do much more cragging. This has helped my climbing ability as far as difficulty, but somewhat at the expense of all day endurance. On the plus side, I just did two of the longest routes I have ever done; Epinephrine and Inti Wantana to Resolution Arete in Red Rocks. It's no RNWF, but it 's been several years since I've suffered a little and been on my feet for that long.

I have definitely reduced the amount of other exercise I get. I used to regularly do several long bike rides a week, and now I do a few rides no longer than two hours. I have also had to stop running because of the knees. I have also been trying to be more diligent about stretching regularly, but I haven't been doing a very good job.


guangzhou


Apr 15, 2010, 7:59 AM
Post #44 of 44 (3239 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [csproul] first wall after age 40? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

csproul wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
csproul wrote:
I think some aspects of my climbing are also getting better at 38 (39 in a couple weeks). But there are some aspects of my fitness that are getting worse.

Do you climb as often or have you reduced your climbing? Workout as often? Just currious, nothing more.
In reply to:
My knees are starting to have issues. And I don't have the same endurance I once had. I also don't have the opportunity to have very long climbing days (unless I get creative); like long multi-pitch/big mountains.

Getting older does mean I need to stretch more. I barely do, but I know I should. My knees have been a problem ever since I did my service in the Army. Endurance and long day, I just wonder, are you climbing as often? Working out as often? Biking as often?/ I think as we get older, we do less active and become more passive. Depending on our careers, this is true too.

In reply to:
I think walls also require some suffering, and although I like to suffer, I'm not sure I have the same tolerance that I had 10 years ago. All that said, I think that a wall after 40 is a very attainable goal, and I'm well on my way to making it happen, maybe even before 40.

I'm not sure about suffering. Some discomfort, yes. Ready to suffer yes, but not required. Not more so than backpacking or camping. Walls can be very physical, but you can aid the leaning tower and make hauling fairly painless, sleeping fairly comfortable, and rain doesn't matter. Sleep on the summit and negotiate the descent in daylight to prevent suffering.
I climb as often and as well as I ever have. The big difference is that I used to have easy access to long routes (CA and CO), and being in NC now, I do much more cragging. This has helped my climbing ability as far as difficulty, but somewhat at the expense of all day endurance. On the plus side, I just did two of the longest routes I have ever done; Epinephrine and Inti Wantana to Resolution Arete in Red Rocks. It's no RNWF, but it 's been several years since I've suffered a little and been on my feet for that long.

I have definitely reduced the amount of other exercise I get. I used to regularly do several long bike rides a week, and now I do a few rides no longer than two hours. I have also had to stop running because of the knees. I have also been trying to be more diligent about stretching regularly, but I haven't been doing a very good job.

Nice. I have to say, they are some nice long routes in North Carolina too. Whitesides comes to mind. Love that place. Looking Glass is nice too, and Linville Gorge has great routes at all grades with moderate approaches.

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook