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tripperjm
Feb 20, 2012, 3:30 PM
Post #89351 of 105309
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camhead wrote: Woops, bolt pulled in Muir Valley. Well, actually the bolt didn't pull, but all the rock completely failed around it. Haven't been on the route in question, it's a one-star pile from what I've seen. This is what happens when you bolt every line in site, even on crap rock. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?p=251943
quote from link
"It was the rock that failed, not the bolt. Any type of bolt placed here—glue-in or mechanical—would have experienced the same demise. In this case, the bolt and hanger remained completely intact."
Hummm.....
checks clipbord.
squints and looks again
BWHAHAHAHAA!!!1
Fuking rookies... knot awl bolts wood have failed...
When bolting in oatmeal, ewe has to use teh rite bolt.
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camhead
Feb 20, 2012, 3:55 PM
Post #89352 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Woops, bolt pulled in Muir Valley. Well, actually the bolt didn't pull, but all the rock completely failed around it. Haven't been on the route in question, it's a one-star pile from what I've seen. This is what happens when you bolt every line in site, even on crap rock. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?p=251943Yeah, I saw that, too. 2nd bolt blowing out, and only minor injuries-- that's pretty darn lucky. I remember that every time I looked at The Stadium in the online guidebook, I never got an overwhelming urge to go there. It really doesn't look appealing. And anyway, MIXED 5.10 climb in Muir Valley? That seems pretty lame...
Those short, bouldery 12s look fun there (Cheetah, can;t remember the others). BUt yeah, not a lot of other great stuff there.
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camhead
Feb 20, 2012, 3:57 PM
Post #89353 of 105309
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tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: Woops, bolt pulled in Muir Valley. Well, actually the bolt didn't pull, but all the rock completely failed around it. Haven't been on the route in question, it's a one-star pile from what I've seen. This is what happens when you bolt every line in site, even on crap rock. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?p=251943"It was the rock that failed, not the bolt. Any type of bolt placed here—glue-in or mechanical—would have experienced the same demise. In this case, the bolt and hanger remained completely intact." Hummm..... [IMG]http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/allwashedup/DSCN1115.jpg[/IMG] checks clipbord. [IMG]http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/allwashedup/DSCN1116.jpg[/IMG] squints and looks again [IMG]http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/allwashedup/DSCN1117.jpg[/IMG] BWHAHAHAHAA!!!1 Fuking rookies... knot awl bolts wood have failed... [IMG]http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/allwashedup/WayNewSicGnar22102.jpg[/IMG] When bolting in oatmeal, ewe has to use teh rite bolt.
I'm really tempted to post a link to this sequence in the redriverclimbing thread. Probably won;t though. We need to keep the sanctity of the BET intact.
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kachoong
Feb 20, 2012, 4:00 PM
Post #89354 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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camhead wrote: Woops, bolt pulled in Muir Valley. Well, actually the bolt didn't pull, but all the rock completely failed around it. Haven't been on the route in question, it's a one-star pile from what I've seen. This is what happens when you bolt every line in site, even on crap rock. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?p=251943
Hey Clicker, tawking about rock failing, have you heard the news about News Wall in the Greenbelt? Half the face is going to slough off soon. Huge cracks are appearing and half the routes there are off limits and will soon be in the creek. here's a vid showing the cracks.
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kachoong
Feb 20, 2012, 4:01 PM
Post #89355 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: ...AND... age 9 level 3, AAU Winter Nationals regional champion is... you guessed it, Baby Monkey. The weird thing is, it was not her best meet by far. She fell off the beam (hasn't happened in over a year), but still managed to get 6th on it, despite the huge deduction. Vault was weak, as usual, but awesome job on the floor routine and uneven bars still got her into the 1st place all around. The warm-ups started at 8a.m., the meet didn't end until 2:30. I was exhausted just from watching.
Great news! Congrats! Bet you're proud.
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camhead
Feb 20, 2012, 4:19 PM
Post #89356 of 105309
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kachoong wrote: camhead wrote: Woops, bolt pulled in Muir Valley. Well, actually the bolt didn't pull, but all the rock completely failed around it. Haven't been on the route in question, it's a one-star pile from what I've seen. This is what happens when you bolt every line in site, even on crap rock. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?p=251943Hey Clicker, tawking about rock failing, have you heard the news about News Wall in the Greenbelt? Half the face is going to slough off soon. Huge cracks are appearing and half the routes there are off limits and will soon be in the creek. here's a vid showing the cracks.
Awesome!
See Eye, take trip to Greenbelt, NOW!
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caughtinside
Feb 20, 2012, 4:27 PM
Post #89358 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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camhead wrote: Woops, bolt pulled in Muir Valley. Well, actually the bolt didn't pull, but all the rock completely failed around it. Haven't been on the route in question, it's a one-star pile from what I've seen. This is what happens when you bolt every line in site, even on crap rock. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?p=251943
Heh. Sounds like that one is a mistake by the bolter but hey, it happens. The route I did at the DTSA on saturday has the two crux bolts in a shallow dihedral. THe bolts are on the left wall, and you have to climb up and out of the dihedral on the right face.
had to do it because the left wall is much harder rock, but the crux falls are sporty and exciting. Overhanging though, so you take these big looping lobs into space and touch down in the corner.
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tripperjm
Feb 20, 2012, 4:31 PM
Post #89359 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 7, 2002
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camhead wrote: tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: Woops, bolt pulled in Muir Valley. Well, actually the bolt didn't pull, but all the rock completely failed around it. Haven't been on the route in question, it's a one-star pile from what I've seen. This is what happens when you bolt every line in site, even on crap rock. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?p=251943"It was the rock that failed, not the bolt. Any type of bolt placed here—glue-in or mechanical—would have experienced the same demise. In this case, the bolt and hanger remained completely intact." Hummm..... checks clipbord. squints and looks again BWHAHAHAHAA!!!1 Fuking rookies... knot awl bolts wood have failed... When bolting in oatmeal, ewe has to use teh rite bolt. I'm really tempted to post a link to this sequence in the redriverclimbing thread. Probably won;t though. We need to keep the sanctity of the BET intact.
Thing is... any bolter worth a damn, noes which bolt to use just by drilling.
In fact I had a conversation with won ov yore local bolters about this very situation that morning at teh Solar Collector... He seemed to be totally unaware ov teh need to use 1/2" glued in threaded stock in these situations. shaking hed.... thinking Fuking Rookies!!!1
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tripperjm
Feb 20, 2012, 4:37 PM
Post #89360 of 105309
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camhead wrote: We need to keep the sanctity of the BET intact.
BWHAHAHAHAa.... Sanctity ov teh BET, nau that's sum funny shitz.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Feb 20, 2012, 4:43 PM
Post #89361 of 105309
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kachoong wrote: camhead wrote: Woops, bolt pulled in Muir Valley. Well, actually the bolt didn't pull, but all the rock completely failed around it. Haven't been on the route in question, it's a one-star pile from what I've seen. This is what happens when you bolt every line in site, even on crap rock. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?p=251943Hey Clicker, tawking about rock failing, have you heard the news about News Wall in the Greenbelt? Half the face is going to slough off soon. Huge cracks are appearing and half the routes there are off limits and will soon be in the creek. here's a vid showing the cracks.
Wow, somebody climbs on that compressed mud ugliness? 
The story for MV bolt says that it failed under body weight, e.i. just a "take". And someone had just weighted it 20 min earlier without a problem. WOW!
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snoopy138
Feb 20, 2012, 4:48 PM
Post #89362 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: But I should also add that oftentimes the route would get put up and then attempted right away. So it was always when you were somewhat gassed. And still covered with the powderlike dust from all the cleaning, which made things much harder. Rough put up a new route 2 weeks ago. It's only 5.9 ish, but with all the dust on all the holds, it felt really tenuous. I'd forgotten about it, and we laffed a bit. THe old stuff is all pretty clean now from several years of rain. so rough is climbing again? lite duty so far... but he's threatening to really get back into it!
get him on teh spankterfied
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kachoong
Feb 20, 2012, 4:49 PM
Post #89363 of 105309
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How could you look into a dingo's eyes and think it's ever guilty? Poor pups.
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kachoong
Feb 20, 2012, 4:51 PM
Post #89364 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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lena_chita wrote: kachoong wrote: camhead wrote: Woops, bolt pulled in Muir Valley. Well, actually the bolt didn't pull, but all the rock completely failed around it. Haven't been on the route in question, it's a one-star pile from what I've seen. This is what happens when you bolt every line in site, even on crap rock. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?p=251943Hey Clicker, tawking about rock failing, have you heard the news about News Wall in the Greenbelt? Half the face is going to slough off soon. Huge cracks are appearing and half the routes there are off limits and will soon be in the creek. here's a vid showing the cracks. Wow, somebody climbs on that compressed mud ugliness?
If it's rock you can climb after work, with the other alternatives the same stuff then yeah, it's not too bad.
I'm looking forward to the move. Job interview Friday!!
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snoopy138
Feb 20, 2012, 4:58 PM
Post #89365 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: kachoong wrote: camhead wrote: Woops, bolt pulled in Muir Valley. Well, actually the bolt didn't pull, but all the rock completely failed around it. Haven't been on the route in question, it's a one-star pile from what I've seen. This is what happens when you bolt every line in site, even on crap rock. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?p=251943Hey Clicker, tawking about rock failing, have you heard the news about News Wall in the Greenbelt? Half the face is going to slough off soon. Huge cracks are appearing and half the routes there are off limits and will soon be in the creek. here's a vid showing the cracks. Wow, somebody climbs on that compressed mud ugliness? The story for MV bolt says that it failed under body weight, e.i. just a "take". And someone had just weighted it 20 min earlier without a problem. WOW!
compressed mud? that there is limestonez
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caughtinside
Feb 20, 2012, 5:15 PM
Post #89366 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: kachoong wrote: camhead wrote: Woops, bolt pulled in Muir Valley. Well, actually the bolt didn't pull, but all the rock completely failed around it. Haven't been on the route in question, it's a one-star pile from what I've seen. This is what happens when you bolt every line in site, even on crap rock. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?p=251943Hey Clicker, tawking about rock failing, have you heard the news about News Wall in the Greenbelt? Half the face is going to slough off soon. Huge cracks are appearing and half the routes there are off limits and will soon be in the creek. here's a vid showing the cracks. Wow, somebody climbs on that compressed mud ugliness? The story for MV bolt says that it failed under body weight, e.i. just a "take". And someone had just weighted it 20 min earlier without a problem. WOW!
Hey now! My whole crag is compressed mud ugliness!
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caughtinside
Feb 20, 2012, 5:21 PM
Post #89367 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: But I should also add that oftentimes the route would get put up and then attempted right away. So it was always when you were somewhat gassed. And still covered with the powderlike dust from all the cleaning, which made things much harder. Rough put up a new route 2 weeks ago. It's only 5.9 ish, but with all the dust on all the holds, it felt really tenuous. I'd forgotten about it, and we laffed a bit. THe old stuff is all pretty clean now from several years of rain. so rough is climbing again? lite duty so far... but he's threatening to really get back into it! get him on teh spankterfied
that might put him out of climbing for another 6 years.
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meatbomz
Feb 20, 2012, 6:23 PM
Post #89368 of 105309
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tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: We need to keep the sanctity of the BET intact. BWHAHAHAHAa.... Sanctity ov teh BET, nau that's sum funny shitz.
I don't even know what that means.
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camhead
Feb 20, 2012, 7:05 PM
Post #89369 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: We need to keep the sanctity of the BET intact. BWHAHAHAHAa.... Sanctity ov teh BET, nau that's sum funny shitz. I don't even know what that means.
bunch of savages around here.
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camhead
Feb 20, 2012, 7:23 PM
Post #89370 of 105309
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Damn, so, we just got a new gym member the other day. Really cute Spanish (actually Menorcan) girl, just moved here to do some visiting dissertation research for the term. Pretty strong, psyched on teh tard carcks. Our gym doesn't have enough females as is, so it was cool to get her in there.
Anyway, just found out she got creamed by a car while riding her bike downtown; broken back, femur. She's now back in Spain, recuperating, and probably wishing she had never even heard of Hellhio.
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tripperjm
Feb 20, 2012, 7:35 PM
Post #89371 of 105309
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camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: We need to keep the sanctity of the BET intact. BWHAHAHAHAa.... Sanctity ov teh BET, nau that's sum funny shitz. I don't even know what that means. bunch of savages around here.
It's like Africa and teh natives, they have there ways.
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kachoong
Feb 20, 2012, 8:16 PM
Post #89372 of 105309
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meatbomz wrote: tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: We need to keep the sanctity of the BET intact. BWHAHAHAHAa.... Sanctity ov teh BET, nau that's sum funny shitz. I don't even know what that means.
Fuzzy bunny!?
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kachoong
Feb 20, 2012, 8:19 PM
Post #89373 of 105309
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camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: We need to keep the sanctity of the BET intact. BWHAHAHAHAa.... Sanctity ov teh BET, nau that's sum funny shitz. I don't even know what that means. bunch of savages around here.
Heh! All hail See Eye!
I really need to get the audio of Jack off my camera one day.
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kachoong
Feb 20, 2012, 8:20 PM
Post #89374 of 105309
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tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: We need to keep the sanctity of the BET intact. BWHAHAHAHAa.... Sanctity ov teh BET, nau that's sum funny shitz. I don't even know what that means. bunch of savages around here. It's like Africa and teh natives, they have there ways.
At least we have the dutch rudder to steer our boat in teh right direction.
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meatbomz
Feb 20, 2012, 8:39 PM
Post #89375 of 105309
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kachoong wrote: meatbomz wrote: tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: We need to keep the sanctity of the BET intact. BWHAHAHAHAa.... Sanctity ov teh BET, nau that's sum funny shitz. I don't even know what that means. Fuzzy bunny!? |
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