drivel wrote:

What recipe. and stored how?

My guess is either pH is wrong, or maybe you stored it at cold temp and SDS precipitated.

We used to make our own stripping buffer, minus beta-mercaptoEtOH, store at RT, and add just enough beta-mercaptoethanol to the volume that was needed, right before use.

Recipe is really simple:
2% SDS
62.5mMTris-HCl, pH6.7
100mM 2-mercaptoethanol

drivel wrote:

What recipe. and stored how?

My guess is either pH is wrong, or maybe you stored it at cold temp and SDS precipitated.

We used to make our own stripping buffer, minus beta-mercaptoEtOH, store at RT, and add just enough beta-mercaptoethanol to the volume that was needed, right before use.

Recipe is really simple:
2% SDS
62.5mMTris-HCl, pH6.7
100mM 2-mercaptoethanol

snoopy138 wrote:

the milder one, no betamercap...

15 g glycine
1 g SDS
10 ml Tween 20
Adjust pH to 2.2
Bring volume up to 1 L with ultrapure water.


stored in clear glass at room temp. though room temp has been fucking really cold lately... ~20 C

snoopy138 wrote:

the milder one, no betamercap...

15 g glycine
1 g SDS
10 ml Tween 20
Adjust pH to 2.2
Bring volume up to 1 L with ultrapure water.


stored in clear glass at room temp. though room temp has been fucking really cold lately... ~20 C

caughtinside wrote:

definitely not reading this. I will just assume a western stripping buffer is something else.

granite_grrl wrote:

Hey Lena, even though you say you suck, you are right where you should be right now.

The good news is that with hangboarding you improve QUICKLY. Rest for two days, and do one more session just the same as the one that trashed you, and then for the next one (your 3rd workout?) add 5 lbs; and you should reach failure at the same time you did with no weight the previous week.

The bad news is that, if you're doing it right, your forearms should be trashed right now, and it pretty much limits all other climbing you will be doing. I need at least 72 hrs of recovery after a hangboard sesh, and the only other climbing I can do in the interim is REALLY easy ARCing (which can still be productive, though, just to keep your enduro up).

Me and dribble usually keep the hangboard a bit lower, like, just above head height; you shouldn't have to jump for it, since this will put unnecessary strain on your arms at the beginning of each rep. Rather than a stool, I would use pillows and a stacked up boulder pad to gain height, though. The other plus of having a lower hangboard is that you can focus on static form of keeping your feet off the ground (lifting your knees or thighs), and this actually engages the core almost enough to count as a core workout. At the end of a good sesh, my core.getcore() is so trashed that I usually can't do leglifts.

For breathing, I've found that the reps are short enough that if you just take a deep breath during your rests, that's good. For skin, use tape, possibly with some spray adhesive to keep it on, but the best thing I found for skin is to move to small holds as quickly as you can. Once you're not stressing that fold of skin under the first knuckle, the pain and gobies become less prevalent.

For the elbows, that may be your biggest challenge (and campusing is even tougher on them). Definitely keep the same angle of elbows throughout your workout; Manderson made the good point that as your elbow angle changes, you are subtlely changing the strain on your forearms, and thus not working them to true failure. For my elbow pain, I also begin each workout with two Ibuprofen and one Tylenol.

Finally, this is a super key time to soak your arms in ice water at the end of your workout; 10 minutes apiece. Just sit back, soak 'em, and make your kids get you dessert!

camhead wrote:

And in other news, OMG, hangboard sucks! Or rather, I suck.

6 sets of 6 holds, and weights, ha! I did 6 sets on 2 holds, with no added weights, and I was done. Actually slipped off the holds on the last rep.

If dribble can do 6 sets, I am really humbled.

The holds were really similar, both about 1-1.5 pad, one was more flat on top, and the other one was meant to be a sloping 3-finger pocket, I guess, but I used it for 4 fingers, because dammit, they fit.

This is pathetic.

I don't think I can do any of the crimps, and I don't see any point in going to bigger holds, so I don't know if i should try to build up to 3-4-5 sets on just these holds for now, or what?

Oh, and my skin is not meant to withstand it. And my elbows felt funny. And I don't know how to breath while doing 6 sec-4 sec cycles.

Did that cover all the whining?

camhead, a question: how high is your hangboard, relative to your height, e.i. do you have to tiptoe-stretch to reach the holds, or do you reach without pulling your shoulders up, and then lift your legs to hang?

I found that the first hold I tried was too high -- I didn't think so when I was just trying it for the height at which to hang the board, because I can reach it if I stand on tiptoes and kind-of pull my arms up and out of the shoulder sockets, But then there is that extra move of pulling up into a good shoulder form (pulling the shoulders down), and that just about killed me. The other hold I used was more like "reach it without extending and then kick up your feet to hang", and that felt much better on my shoulders. So, do you think I need a step-stool for the holds that are barely reachable? :)

granite_grrl wrote:

Hey Lena, even though you say you suck, you are right where you should be right now.

The good news is that with hangboarding you improve QUICKLY. Rest for two days, and do one more session just the same as the one that trashed you, and then for the next one (your 3rd workout?) add 5 lbs; and you should reach failure at the same time you did with no weight the previous week.

The bad news is that, if you're doing it right, your forearms should be trashed right now, and it pretty much limits all other climbing you will be doing. I need at least 72 hrs of recovery after a hangboard sesh, and the only other climbing I can do in the interim is REALLY easy ARCing (which can still be productive, though, just to keep your enduro up).

Me and dribble usually keep the hangboard a bit lower, like, just above head height; you shouldn't have to jump for it, since this will put unnecessary strain on your arms at the beginning of each rep. Rather than a stool, I would use pillows and a stacked up boulder pad to gain height, though. The other plus of having a lower hangboard is that you can focus on static form of keeping your feet off the ground (lifting your knees or thighs), and this actually engages the core almost enough to count as a core workout. At the end of a good sesh, my core.getcore() is so trashed that I usually can't do leglifts.

For breathing, I've found that the reps are short enough that if you just take a deep breath during your rests, that's good. For skin, use tape, possibly with some spray adhesive to keep it on, but the best thing I found for skin is to move to small holds as quickly as you can. Once you're not stressing that fold of skin under the first knuckle, the pain and gobies become less prevalent.

For the elbows, that may be your biggest challenge (and campusing is even tougher on them). Definitely keep the same angle of elbows throughout your workout; Manderson made the good point that as your elbow angle changes, you are subtlely changing the strain on your forearms, and thus not working them to true failure. For my elbow pain, I also begin each workout with two Ibuprofen and one Tylenol.

Finally, this is a super key time to soak your arms in ice water at the end of your workout; 10 minutes apiece. Just sit back, soak 'em, and make your kids get you dessert!

caughtinside wrote:

lena_chita wrote:

So what hangboards do you guys have? I ask because the one that we have seems to be mostly crimps and pockets and I feel like I might have problems finding enough variety for 6 grips types, though ours looks like it might have move to it than a lot of hang boards out there. I'm probably just limiting myself.

It's an old one, but other than being Metolious I can't tell you anything about it (nor can I find any photos of it).

meatbomz wrote:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/hart-draw/107483982

Hart's draw, the wingate canyon just N of Indian Creek, seems to have just popped up on the project. I'd heard tell of the place, kind of a no documentation kind of spot. out of the bag now I guess.

granite_grrl wrote:

Hey Lena, even though you say you suck, you are right where you should be right now.

The good news is that with hangboarding you improve QUICKLY. Rest for two days, and do one more session just the same as the one that trashed you, and then for the next one (your 3rd workout?) add 5 lbs; and you should reach failure at the same time you did with no weight the previous week.

The bad news is that, if you're doing it right, your forearms should be trashed right now, and it pretty much limits all other climbing you will be doing. I need at least 72 hrs of recovery after a hangboard sesh, and the only other climbing I can do in the interim is REALLY easy ARCing (which can still be productive, though, just to keep your enduro up).

Me and dribble usually keep the hangboard a bit lower, like, just above head height; you shouldn't have to jump for it, since this will put unnecessary strain on your arms at the beginning of each rep. Rather than a stool, I would use pillows and a stacked up boulder pad to gain height, though. The other plus of having a lower hangboard is that you can focus on static form of keeping your feet off the ground (lifting your knees or thighs), and this actually engages the core almost enough to count as a core workout. At the end of a good sesh, my core.getcore() is so trashed that I usually can't do leglifts.

For breathing, I've found that the reps are short enough that if you just take a deep breath during your rests, that's good. For skin, use tape, possibly with some spray adhesive to keep it on, but the best thing I found for skin is to move to small holds as quickly as you can. Once you're not stressing that fold of skin under the first knuckle, the pain and gobies become less prevalent.

For the elbows, that may be your biggest challenge (and campusing is even tougher on them). Definitely keep the same angle of elbows throughout your workout; Manderson made the good point that as your elbow angle changes, you are subtlely changing the strain on your forearms, and thus not working them to true failure. For my elbow pain, I also begin each workout with two Ibuprofen and one Tylenol.

Finally, this is a super key time to soak your arms in ice water at the end of your workout; 10 minutes apiece. Just sit back, soak 'em, and make your kids get you dessert!

camhead wrote:

I have two.

Entreprise Hangtime http://www.epusa.com/store/hangtime.html

And moon fingerboard
http://www.amazon.com/...-Stone/dp/B0071OVKES

Neither one is quite what I would like.

Enteprise one is almost too easy, only one rail that is worth working on for Mandersonian hangboard workout. But I do like the fact that it is a rail, so it is easy to adjust your grip from wide to narrow, depending on how wide your shoulders are.

Moon board still has those small crimps that I can't touch. I can hang on the larger of the two small crimps, but barely, I don't think I can do a full 6 sec hang on it, and def not a set of 6 of them, repeated 6 times. But it is a lofty goal.

Absolutely missing are slopers (the ones on top of the moonboard are a possibility in the future, maybe) and pinches.

If I were buying a new one, I would probably go for something like this IronPalm from SoIll/Cryptochild:
http://www.soillholds.com/iron-palm-moderate

From the description it seems perfect for me right now... But I have never had a chance to touch one, or even see it IRL, so who knows, I might be completely off.

Failing that, I almost think you are better off getting a few holds and bolting them to a 2x6 or a 2x8. You might be able to scrounge from your wall, even?

snoopy138 wrote:

Nice! We should check it out.