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climbingtrash
Nov 24, 2013, 4:29 AM
Post #101476 of 105309
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Knot fore ewe!
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climbingtrash
Nov 24, 2013, 4:29 AM
Post #101478 of 105309
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camhead wrote: hrm, saturday night?
wo0!?!
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climbingtrash
Nov 24, 2013, 4:31 AM
Post #101479 of 105309
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ewe need to plant moar seeds
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climbingtrash
Nov 24, 2013, 9:41 PM
Post #101480 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: climbingtrash wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Climbing three times a week and I'm trying to go sans tape because I found I climb much better without it. However, I feel like my oozing open wounds are going to get gangrene and my stump is going to fall off. Halp? Also, GO, I'll be at the Thornton gym tonight gimping it up if you guys get the bug. We shall be down at the creke for the next week, if anyone gets the bug. Speaking of ooze and gangrene. Thanks but I wood rather shoot myself in teh Phace. Hey, I'd rather you shoot yourself in the fucking face than come join us too! We have something in common! Now, kindly crawl back into that miserable little hole you came out of.
I knew we'd find something in common. So how's teh snow up there? Looks like moab got hammered.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 25, 2013, 2:30 PM
Post #101481 of 105309
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camhead wrote: I guess I'll spray for Lena, since that's not as spraytastic, or something. She just took down Stain at the Doucherlode, for her first solid One Two Ceeeee. It even has a big move in it, not sure how she did it! Getting kind of bummed on the weather here; everytime I'm werkin' the werkz, it's nice, and everytime I am off, it sucks. Today I rehearsed some pies for Puritan Day, turned out pretty good, and then am gonna try boldering in 25 degree weather tomorrow. Woo!
Thanks for the spray-by-proxy! I couldn't disappoint Mr. Manderson after he so kindly hung the draws for me. I don't know which long move you are talking about... at the crimp section I did something that Mike called "the rose move". The last move to the anchors I jumped just a tiny bit. And all the other moves I just reached.
But mostly, I turned off my head, and just climbed.
The weather was awesome., I couldn't believe how warm it felt on Saturday, with 42F for high, and partly cloudy. I climbed in a tanktop.
On Sunday we woke up to the thermometer at the cabin reading 16F. Everyone wilted (frosted?) a bit at the news. Nobody wanted to be out early, but Ed and I had a long drive back, so we braved the outside world when the temps went up to 19F. By the time we got to Chocolate Factory, it was whooping 22F!!!
Ed was having serious misgivings about any climbing actually happening in such conditions. He was willing to go along, but told me that I would get all the blame, if it was too cold. For fairness sake, I requested to have all the credit, too, in case things worked out.  And they did. he didn't even freeze on the warm-up, he got 11a 2nd go, and flashed 10b, and declared the day a success. Woo, my credit!!!! It didn't break 32F for high, but it was full-sun and pretty nice.
Unfortunately I tweaked my knee on Stain. Didn't even notice it until I came down and sat for a bit. it must have been the drop-knee before the last bolt. Can't bend it past the toe, and any sideways movement hurts.
Kinda bummed, but I am going to give it 10 days rest, and hope for the best.
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camhead
Nov 25, 2013, 3:14 PM
Post #101482 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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lena_chita wrote: Thanks for the spray-by-proxy! I couldn't disappoint Mr. Manderson after he so kindly hung the draws for me. I don't know which long move you are talking about... at the crimp section I did something that Mike called "the rose move". The last move to the anchors I jumped just a tiny bit. And all the other moves I just reached. But mostly, I turned off my head, and just climbed. The weather was awesome., I couldn't believe how warm it felt on Saturday, with 42F for high, and partly cloudy. I climbed in a tanktop. On Sunday we woke up to the thermometer at the cabin reading 16F. Everyone wilted (frosted?) a bit at the news. Nobody wanted to be out early, but Ed and I had a long drive back, so we braved the outside world when the temps went up to 19F. By the time we got to Chocolate Factory, it was whooping 22F!!! Ed was having serious misgivings about any climbing actually happening in such conditions. He was willing to go along, but told me that I would get all the blame, if it was too cold. For fairness sake, I requested to have all the credit, too, in case things worked out. And they did. he didn't even freeze on the warm-up, he got 11a 2nd go, and flashed 10b, and declared the day a success. Woo, my credit!!!! It didn't break 32F for high, but it was full-sun and pretty nice. Unfortunately I tweaked my knee on Stain. Didn't even notice it until I came down and sat for a bit. it must have been the drop-knee before the last bolt. Can't bend it past the toe, and any sideways movement hurts. Kinda bummed, but I am going to give it 10 days rest, and hope for the best.
Hrmm, as I remember, right before the anchors there was a jump move for me off of two crimps. Can't recall the deets beyond that, though.
Yesterday was cold, and completely sunny here, too, with like 18% humidity. Went bouldering in full winter gear, and it was really good; best friction I've ever felt at the NRG; the slopers seriously felt like velcro. Gonna try to get out on the ropes today (it's still in the mid-20s here) if I can find a partner; the only locals who are still psyched on climbing routes right now are me, Craig, Mikey, and Lee.
If I can't find a partner, will go back to the boulders and work on this sweet v8 traverse that is good for alone-climbs and the best PE trainer that I've found yet! Six laps on it should make me feel less guilty about eating all the pie that I've made.
Oh, and some fun dramz in grupe!
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tripperjm
Nov 25, 2013, 6:42 PM
Post #101483 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 7, 2002
Posts: 10650
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So apairently I wuz rong!!!1
I noes.... pretty fuking hard to believe but I guess it's tru. And how due I noes this? Cuz I red it in R&I and saw teh pretty pics.
The best sport climbing in California... knot just in sokat but all of cali is teh slightly overhanging slabby area. And at won poynt our local super hero compairs it to teh climbing in southern France.
Nau I go there sumtymes, on the shitty weather days when everywhere else is two wet and cold... and it's fun and awl, even though it makes me feel empty inside but how kin standing around, shuffling on ledges bee teh best?
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snoopy138
Nov 25, 2013, 6:46 PM
Post #101484 of 105309
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tripperjm wrote: So apairently I wuz rong!!!1 I noes.... pretty fuking hard to believe but I guess it's tru. And how due I noes this? Cuz I red it in R&I and saw teh pretty pics. The best sport climbing in California... knot just in sokat but all of cali is teh slightly overhanging slabby area. And at won poynt our local super hero compairs it to teh climbing in southern France. Nau I go there sumtymes, on the shitty weather days when everywhere else is two wet and cold... and it's fun and awl, even though it makes me feel empty inside but how kin standing around, shuffling on ledges bee teh best?
It's only because the hole isn't well known.
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caughtinside
Nov 25, 2013, 7:09 PM
Post #101485 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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tripperjm wrote: So apairently I wuz rong!!!1 I noes.... pretty fuking hard to believe but I guess it's tru. And how due I noes this? Cuz I red it in R&I and saw teh pretty pics. The best sport climbing in California... knot just in sokat but all of cali is teh slightly overhanging slabby area. And at won poynt our local super hero compairs it to teh climbing in southern France. Nau I go there sumtymes, on the shitty weather days when everywhere else is two wet and cold... and it's fun and awl, even though it makes me feel empty inside but how kin standing around, shuffling on ledges bee teh best?
You guys have Kalymnos and Southern France? No Phair!!!
*books ticket to sokat*
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camhead
Nov 25, 2013, 10:04 PM
Post #101486 of 105309
(4004 views)
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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tripperjm wrote: So apairently I wuz rong!!!1 I noes.... pretty fuking hard to believe but I guess it's tru. And how due I noes this? Cuz I red it in R&I and saw teh pretty pics. The best sport climbing in California... knot just in sokat but all of cali is teh slightly overhanging slabby area. And at won poynt our local super hero compairs it to teh climbing in southern France. Nau I go there sumtymes, on the shitty weather days when everywhere else is two wet and cold... and it's fun and awl, even though it makes me feel empty inside but how kin standing around, shuffling on ledges bee teh best?
Yup, I saw that. Looks like some fun stuff there. It's kind of cool, if you want to go to the South of France you hit Riverside, and if you want Kalymnos, just go to Malibu. Why leave the Land of Milk and Honey, evar?
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camhead
Nov 25, 2013, 10:10 PM
Post #101487 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: So apairently I wuz rong!!!1 I noes.... pretty fuking hard to believe but I guess it's tru. And how due I noes this? Cuz I red it in R&I and saw teh pretty pics. The best sport climbing in California... knot just in sokat but all of cali is teh slightly overhanging slabby area. And at won poynt our local super hero compairs it to teh climbing in southern France. Nau I go there sumtymes, on the shitty weather days when everywhere else is two wet and cold... and it's fun and awl, even though it makes me feel empty inside but how kin standing around, shuffling on ledges bee teh best? You guys have Kalymnos and Southern France? No Phair!!! *books ticket to sokat*
Phuck, GU'd! not surprising.
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snoopy138
Nov 26, 2013, 1:06 AM
Post #101488 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
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camhead wrote: tripperjm wrote: So apairently I wuz rong!!!1 I noes.... pretty fuking hard to believe but I guess it's tru. And how due I noes this? Cuz I red it in R&I and saw teh pretty pics. The best sport climbing in California... knot just in sokat but all of cali is teh slightly overhanging slabby area. And at won poynt our local super hero compairs it to teh climbing in southern France. Nau I go there sumtymes, on the shitty weather days when everywhere else is two wet and cold... and it's fun and awl, even though it makes me feel empty inside but how kin standing around, shuffling on ledges bee teh best? Yup, I saw that. Looks like some fun stuff there. It's kind of cool, if you want to go to the South of France you hit Riverside, and if you want Kalymnos, just go to Malibu. Why leave the Land of Milk and Honey, evar?
that's a lot of GU that just got sprayed on yore fase.
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snoopy138
Nov 26, 2013, 1:08 AM
Post #101489 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
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caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: So apairently I wuz rong!!!1 I noes.... pretty fuking hard to believe but I guess it's tru. And how due I noes this? Cuz I red it in R&I and saw teh pretty pics. The best sport climbing in California... knot just in sokat but all of cali is teh slightly overhanging slabby area. And at won poynt our local super hero compairs it to teh climbing in southern France. Nau I go there sumtymes, on the shitty weather days when everywhere else is two wet and cold... and it's fun and awl, even though it makes me feel empty inside but how kin standing around, shuffling on ledges bee teh best? You guys have Kalymnos and Southern France? No Phair!!! *books ticket to sokat*
apparently Echo is just a slightly chossier version of the Cut.
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climbingtrash
Nov 26, 2013, 1:17 AM
Post #101490 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 5114
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tripperjm wrote: So apairently I wuz rong!!!1 I noes.... pretty fuking hard to believe but I guess it's tru. And how due I noes this? Cuz I red it in R&I and saw teh pretty pics. The best sport climbing in California... knot just in sokat but all of cali is teh slightly overhanging slabby area. And at won poynt our local super hero compairs it to teh climbing in southern France. Nau I go there sumtymes, on the shitty weather days when everywhere else is two wet and cold... and it's fun and awl, even though it makes me feel empty inside but how kin standing around, shuffling on ledges bee teh best?
I've been telling people fore years that the best climbing is in Socak. And its is my firm belief that EVERYONE should climb there.
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climbingtrash
Nov 26, 2013, 1:18 AM
Post #101491 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: tripperjm wrote: So apairently I wuz rong!!!1 I noes.... pretty fuking hard to believe but I guess it's tru. And how due I noes this? Cuz I red it in R&I and saw teh pretty pics. The best sport climbing in California... knot just in sokat but all of cali is teh slightly overhanging slabby area. And at won poynt our local super hero compairs it to teh climbing in southern France. Nau I go there sumtymes, on the shitty weather days when everywhere else is two wet and cold... and it's fun and awl, even though it makes me feel empty inside but how kin standing around, shuffling on ledges bee teh best? Yup, I saw that. Looks like some fun stuff there. It's kind of cool, if you want to go to the South of France you hit Riverside, and if you want Kalymnos, just go to Malibu. Why leave the Land of Milk and Honey, evar? that's a lot of GU that just got sprayed on yore fase.
Did ewe see how I francheyez teh shit outta his PT?
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lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 26, 2013, 1:50 AM
Post #101493 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Thanks for the spray-by-proxy! I couldn't disappoint Mr. Manderson after he so kindly hung the draws for me. I don't know which long move you are talking about... at the crimp section I did something that Mike called "the rose move". The last move to the anchors I jumped just a tiny bit. And all the other moves I just reached. But mostly, I turned off my head, and just climbed. The weather was awesome., I couldn't believe how warm it felt on Saturday, with 42F for high, and partly cloudy. I climbed in a tanktop. On Sunday we woke up to the thermometer at the cabin reading 16F. Everyone wilted (frosted?) a bit at the news. Nobody wanted to be out early, but Ed and I had a long drive back, so we braved the outside world when the temps went up to 19F. By the time we got to Chocolate Factory, it was whooping 22F!!! Ed was having serious misgivings about any climbing actually happening in such conditions. He was willing to go along, but told me that I would get all the blame, if it was too cold. For fairness sake, I requested to have all the credit, too, in case things worked out. And they did. he didn't even freeze on the warm-up, he got 11a 2nd go, and flashed 10b, and declared the day a success. Woo, my credit!!!! It didn't break 32F for high, but it was full-sun and pretty nice. Unfortunately I tweaked my knee on Stain. Didn't even notice it until I came down and sat for a bit. it must have been the drop-knee before the last bolt. Can't bend it past the toe, and any sideways movement hurts. Kinda bummed, but I am going to give it 10 days rest, and hope for the best. Hrmm, as I remember, right before the anchors there was a jump move for me off of two crimps. Can't recall the deets beyond that, though.
Yeah, I know what you are talking about. But I don't use the left of those crimps. The one on the right is smaller, but closer to the finish jug, and then there is a tiny pocket with a thumb catch just above it, and the move to the finish jug becomes just barely dynamic at all.
camhead wrote: Yesterday was cold, and completely sunny here, too, with like 18% humidity. Went bouldering in full winter gear, and it was really good; best friction I've ever felt at the NRG; the slopers seriously felt like velcro. Gonna try to get out on the ropes today (it's still in the mid-20s here) if I can find a partner; the only locals who are still psyched on climbing routes right now are me, Craig, Mikey, and Lee.
Yeah, friction was amazing this weekend. It almost feels like cheating to climb in conditions like that. The slick sloper I was worried about before felt like I couldn't slide off of it if I had tried.
(This post was edited by lena_chita on Nov 26, 2013, 2:29 AM)
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climbingtrash
Nov 26, 2013, 2:27 AM
Post #101494 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Thanks for the spray-by-proxy! I couldn't disappoint Mr. Manderson after he so kindly hung the draws for me. I don't know which long move you are talking about... at the crimp section I did something that Mike called "the rose move". The last move to the anchors I jumped just a tiny bit. And all the other moves I just reached. But mostly, I turned off my head, and just climbed. The weather was awesome., I couldn't believe how warm it felt on Saturday, with 42F for high, and partly cloudy. I climbed in a tanktop. On Sunday we woke up to the thermometer at the cabin reading 16F. Everyone wilted (frosted?) a bit at the news. Nobody wanted to be out early, but Ed and I had a long drive back, so we braved the outside world when the temps went up to 19F. By the time we got to Chocolate Factory, it was whooping 22F!!! Ed was having serious misgivings about any climbing actually happening in such conditions. He was willing to go along, but told me that I would get all the blame, if it was too cold. For fairness sake, I requested to have all the credit, too, in case things worked out. And they did. he didn't even freeze on the warm-up, he got 11a 2nd go, and flashed 10b, and declared the day a success. Woo, my credit!!!! It didn't break 32F for high, but it was full-sun and pretty nice. Unfortunately I tweaked my knee on Stain. Didn't even notice it until I came down and sat for a bit. it must have been the drop-knee before the last bolt. Can't bend it past the toe, and any sideways movement hurts. Kinda bummed, but I am going to give it 10 days rest, and hope for the best. Hrmm, as I remember, right before the anchors there was a jump move for me off of two crimps. Can't recall the deets beyond that, though.[/quote} Yeah, I know what you are talking about. But I don't use the left of those crimps. The one on the right is smaller, but closer to the finish jug, and then there is a tiny pocket with a thumb catch just above it, and the move to the finish jug becomes just barely dynamic at all. camhead wrote: Yesterday was cold, and completely sunny here, too, with like 18% humidity. Went bouldering in full winter gear, and it was really good; best friction I've ever felt at the NRG; the slopers seriously felt like velcro. Gonna try to get out on the ropes today (it's still in the mid-20s here) if I can find a partner; the only locals who are still psyched on climbing routes right now are me, Craig, Mikey, and Lee. Yeah, friction was amazing this weekend. It almost feels like cheating to climb in conditions like that. The slick sloper I was worried about before felt like I couldn't slide off of it if I had tried.
Why ewe haz to cheestit greenie, why?
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lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 26, 2013, 2:32 AM
Post #101495 of 105309
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climbingtrash wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Thanks for the spray-by-proxy! I couldn't disappoint Mr. Manderson after he so kindly hung the draws for me. I don't know which long move you are talking about... at the crimp section I did something that Mike called "the rose move". The last move to the anchors I jumped just a tiny bit. And all the other moves I just reached. But mostly, I turned off my head, and just climbed. The weather was awesome., I couldn't believe how warm it felt on Saturday, with 42F for high, and partly cloudy. I climbed in a tanktop. On Sunday we woke up to the thermometer at the cabin reading 16F. Everyone wilted (frosted?) a bit at the news. Nobody wanted to be out early, but Ed and I had a long drive back, so we braved the outside world when the temps went up to 19F. By the time we got to Chocolate Factory, it was whooping 22F!!! Ed was having serious misgivings about any climbing actually happening in such conditions. He was willing to go along, but told me that I would get all the blame, if it was too cold. For fairness sake, I requested to have all the credit, too, in case things worked out. And they did. he didn't even freeze on the warm-up, he got 11a 2nd go, and flashed 10b, and declared the day a success. Woo, my credit!!!! It didn't break 32F for high, but it was full-sun and pretty nice. Unfortunately I tweaked my knee on Stain. Didn't even notice it until I came down and sat for a bit. it must have been the drop-knee before the last bolt. Can't bend it past the toe, and any sideways movement hurts. Kinda bummed, but I am going to give it 10 days rest, and hope for the best. Hrmm, as I remember, right before the anchors there was a jump move for me off of two crimps. Can't recall the deets beyond that, though.[/quote} Yeah, I know what you are talking about. But I don't use the left of those crimps. The one on the right is smaller, but closer to the finish jug, and then there is a tiny pocket with a thumb catch just above it, and the move to the finish jug becomes just barely dynamic at all. camhead wrote: Yesterday was cold, and completely sunny here, too, with like 18% humidity. Went bouldering in full winter gear, and it was really good; best friction I've ever felt at the NRG; the slopers seriously felt like velcro. Gonna try to get out on the ropes today (it's still in the mid-20s here) if I can find a partner; the only locals who are still psyched on climbing routes right now are me, Craig, Mikey, and Lee. Yeah, friction was amazing this weekend. It almost feels like cheating to climb in conditions like that. The slick sloper I was worried about before felt like I couldn't slide off of it if I had tried. Why ewe haz to cheestit greenie, why?
You gotta give the gerks something to talk about...
Spray--check.
cheezetitz--check
And I even edited it, to make my disgrace more completely appealing for comments...
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climbingtrash
Nov 26, 2013, 2:42 AM
Post #101496 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: climbingtrash wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Thanks for the spray-by-proxy! I couldn't disappoint Mr. Manderson after he so kindly hung the draws for me. I don't know which long move you are talking about... at the crimp section I did something that Mike called "the rose move". The last move to the anchors I jumped just a tiny bit. And all the other moves I just reached. But mostly, I turned off my head, and just climbed. The weather was awesome., I couldn't believe how warm it felt on Saturday, with 42F for high, and partly cloudy. I climbed in a tanktop. On Sunday we woke up to the thermometer at the cabin reading 16F. Everyone wilted (frosted?) a bit at the news. Nobody wanted to be out early, but Ed and I had a long drive back, so we braved the outside world when the temps went up to 19F. By the time we got to Chocolate Factory, it was whooping 22F!!! Ed was having serious misgivings about any climbing actually happening in such conditions. He was willing to go along, but told me that I would get all the blame, if it was too cold. For fairness sake, I requested to have all the credit, too, in case things worked out. And they did. he didn't even freeze on the warm-up, he got 11a 2nd go, and flashed 10b, and declared the day a success. Woo, my credit!!!! It didn't break 32F for high, but it was full-sun and pretty nice. Unfortunately I tweaked my knee on Stain. Didn't even notice it until I came down and sat for a bit. it must have been the drop-knee before the last bolt. Can't bend it past the toe, and any sideways movement hurts. Kinda bummed, but I am going to give it 10 days rest, and hope for the best. Hrmm, as I remember, right before the anchors there was a jump move for me off of two crimps. Can't recall the deets beyond that, though.[/quote} Yeah, I know what you are talking about. But I don't use the left of those crimps. The one on the right is smaller, but closer to the finish jug, and then there is a tiny pocket with a thumb catch just above it, and the move to the finish jug becomes just barely dynamic at all. camhead wrote: Yesterday was cold, and completely sunny here, too, with like 18% humidity. Went bouldering in full winter gear, and it was really good; best friction I've ever felt at the NRG; the slopers seriously felt like velcro. Gonna try to get out on the ropes today (it's still in the mid-20s here) if I can find a partner; the only locals who are still psyched on climbing routes right now are me, Craig, Mikey, and Lee. Yeah, friction was amazing this weekend. It almost feels like cheating to climb in conditions like that. The slick sloper I was worried about before felt like I couldn't slide off of it if I had tried. Why ewe haz to cheestit greenie, why? You gotta give the gerks something to talk about... Spray--check. cheezetitz--check And I even edited it, to make my disgrace more completely appealing for comments...
ewe know yore knot earning any poynts with Jak by editing.
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snoopy138
Nov 27, 2013, 5:51 PM
Post #101497 of 105309
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Hey CI, if you can un-lame yourself for a day this weke end, will be at teh gold wall. Though it's unclear whether you remember how to spurtz climb.
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caughtinside
Nov 29, 2013, 7:00 AM
Post #101498 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: Hey CI, if you can un-lame yourself for a day this weke end, will be at teh gold wall. Though it's unclear whether you remember how to spurtz climb.
Yeah, not going to make that. Got the disgusted text from jak. Posted my plans in grupe
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lena_chita
Moderator
Dec 1, 2013, 1:48 AM
Post #101499 of 105309
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I haven't climbed since last Saturday. Feeling weird and antsy and all sorts of strange.
We went to see Catching Fire on Friday in a little movie theater in the middle of nowhere. Kids really enjoyed it, and, unexpectedly, so did I. MUCH better than the first Hunger Games movie. I wasn't expecting much, because i thought the first book was better than the first movie. But I think the reverse is true for the second book/movie combo. It was the first time in a very long time that I thought the movie was better than the book.
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carabiner96
Dec 1, 2013, 3:41 AM
Post #101500 of 105309
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Posts: 12610
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lena_chita wrote: I haven't climbed since last Saturday. Feeling weird and antsy and all sorts of strange. We went to see Catching Fire on Friday in a little movie theater in the middle of nowhere. Kids really enjoyed it, and, unexpectedly, so did I. MUCH better than the first Hunger Games movie. I wasn't expecting much, because i thought the first book was better than the first movie. But I think the reverse is true for the second book/movie combo. It was the first time in a very long time that I thought the movie was better than the book.
I told Brian if Jennifer Lawrence showed up on my door step and asked me to be her gay lover, I'd leave him in the dust.
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