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ladyscarlett


Oct 12, 2009, 8:40 PM
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Re: [wanderlustmd] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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Thanks for the encouragement and not laughing too hard at my newbie enthusiasm over the little things. It's just that it's MINE! Really MINE!

I have tried to use tricams before, but have only succeeded in one solid placement in the many attempts. I was thinking of them on the theory that if I have them, I'll get better at placing.

However, I can't deny the pleasure of a good set of nuts at hand, feels good in so many ways!Wink But the communal rack already has a double set, so I'm going to wait a little longer.

Thanks for the tip on Mountain Project as well!

On the "nice rack" note, I recently had a funny interaction chatting with someone after coming off a lead. We're talking about the climbing day and I realize that he isn't focused on my face. He just can't keep his eyes off my hips/below the waist/backside. I find it a little weird until I realize he's checking out/sizing up my (the communal) rack!

As an Asian girl ...this is the first time ever talking to a dude who couldn't take his eyes off my rack.

So

Much

Fun!

cheers

ls


Partner robdotcalm


Oct 12, 2009, 9:41 PM
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Re: [ladyscarlett] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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LS,

Forget all this talk about getting wimpy gear such as stoppers. Get something that will show people youíre one tough climber Ėget Valley Giants and proudly hold them up for all to see. Believe me, you will get a lot of comments on your rack.



For the first 5 or so years I climbed, it was always a communal rack. If you have steady partners, itís a good way to go. The first time I used a camming device, it was a #4 Friend that my partner owned. I was skeptical of this heavy, cumbersome device but decided to try it out. When Rod arrived at the belay, I told him how wonderful the Friend was and that it had built in smarts. He asked what I was talking about. I told him I placed it and then it followed me up the crack for 15í, which I thought was great. Rod then lectured me on properly slinging Friends and on the dangers of its walking.

Cheers,

Rob.calm
12-Oct-09 15:30:00 MST (-6 UMT)
Attachments: ValleyGiantsRC.jpg (61.8 KB)


hafilax


Oct 13, 2009, 2:13 AM
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Re: [ladyscarlett] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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This weekend I discovered that one of my cams is missing. I probably neglected to put it in my bag after a day in the Bluffs. Having bootied a brand new C4 I'm back to even but it's sad to not have one of the original pieces of my rack out of sheer carelessness. I have others of the same size but it's just not the same. Frown

So keep an eye on your rack and don't let any doggies go astray.


saxfiend


Oct 13, 2009, 2:50 AM
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Re: [ladyscarlett] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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ladyscarlett wrote:
So far, this newbie's personal* rack consists of

-3 lockers
-3 trad draws
-#3 C4 cam
-long sling for anchor material
If you were in North Carolina, you'd be all set.

JL


billcoe_


Oct 13, 2009, 4:12 AM
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My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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Congrats lady scarlett! You're now on your way to being a gear whore. It happened to me. I still remember, have, and occasionally still use my first 3 pieces: bought in 1971. Chouinard 6,7 and 8 Hexes that I slung with rope.


notapplicable


Oct 13, 2009, 4:31 AM
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Re: [saxfiend] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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saxfiend wrote:
ladyscarlett wrote:
So far, this newbie's personal* rack consists of

-3 lockers
-3 trad draws
-#3 C4 cam
-long sling for anchor material
If you were in North Carolina, you'd be all set.

JL

Frighteningly close to the truth.


zeke_sf


Oct 13, 2009, 4:39 AM
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Re: [ladyscarlett] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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ladyscarlett wrote:
However, I can't deny the pleasure of a good set of nuts at hand, feels good in so many ways!Wink

Ha! You are shameless... in a good way.

Sounds like you have enough gear to be dangerous, i.e., have fun! Those pieces will add up sooner than you think. I'm not sure what my first pieces were. Probably the nuts at hand...


scottydo


Oct 13, 2009, 6:02 AM
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welcome to the black hole that is being a gear junkie! Wink


cantbuymefriends


Oct 13, 2009, 8:27 AM
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Re: [ladyscarlett] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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Heh!
I just put a #3 C4 on the wish list for Christmas.
Got top get some more. I've got 13 camming devices right now, that can't be good. I mean, bad karma and all that.


subantz


Oct 14, 2009, 8:58 AM
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I remember my first Piece. The lights were low. The mood was right. And alittle Method Man playing in the back ground. AHHHH those were the days.


blueeyedclimber


Oct 14, 2009, 2:47 PM
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Re: [ladyscarlett] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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ladyscarlett wrote:

-3 lockers
-3 trad draws
-#3 C4 cam



CoolJosh


Alpinisto


Oct 16, 2009, 1:35 AM
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Re: [possum2082] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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possum2082 wrote:
man...i was so excited when i got my first cam: a trango #8 flex cam. i was so ready.

That's a kinda big piece for your first one, innit? Where you climb at?

(FYI, I'm not knocking the FlexCam -- I own a whole set!)


zeke_sf


Oct 16, 2009, 5:22 AM
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Re: [subantz] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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subantz wrote:
I remember my first Piece. The lights were low. The mood was right. And alittle Method Man playing in the back ground. AHHHH those were the days.

Whoever rated you a one on this is a humorlous assklown whose last "piece" was their own thumb in a dark, painful place; that was great. *****


subantz


Oct 16, 2009, 5:38 PM
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Re: [zeke_sf] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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That is what first came to mind when I saw the title. I answer some threads like that. I never even look at the stars. But sometimes ya just feel like being a bit well. Hell with out comments like these RC.com would die. I remember my first piece. It was the Rope. then Quik draws. Just kiddin folks. Oh crap another 1 star post.


evanwish


Oct 16, 2009, 7:05 PM
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Re: [robdotcalm] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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robdotcalm wrote:
The first time I used a camming device, it was a #4 Friend that my partner owned. I was skeptical of this heavy, cumbersome device but decided to try it out. When Rod arrived at the belay, I told him how wonderful the Friend was and that it had built in smarts. He asked what I was talking about. I told him I placed it and then it followed me up the crack for 15í, which I thought was great. Rod then lectured me on properly slinging Friends and on the dangers of its walking.

Cheers,

Rob.calm

PRICELESS!!!


lena_chita
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Oct 16, 2009, 7:51 PM
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Re: [ladyscarlett] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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Yay! I understand the excitement!

My first was a set of wild country stoppers. I won them in a comp.
A 'drawback' of climbing with partners who have a good rack already-- no imediate pressure to buy.

But I am so, SOOO ready. I am saving for a Christmas gift to myself. That would be a set of four BD C4s to start, and some slings and 'biners. After that, I swear, I am joining a self-imposed cam-of-the-month club.


Gmburns2000


Oct 16, 2009, 8:31 PM
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robdotcalm wrote:

For the first 5 or so years I climbed, it was always a communal rack. If you have steady partners, itís a good way to go. The first time I used a camming device, it was a #4 Friend that my partner owned. I was skeptical of this heavy, cumbersome device but decided to try it out. When Rod arrived at the belay, I told him how wonderful the Friend was and that it had built in smarts. He asked what I was talking about. I told him I placed it and then it followed me up the crack for 15í, which I thought was great. Rod then lectured me on properly slinging Friends and on the dangers of its walking.

Cheers,

Rob.calm
12-Oct-09 15:30:00 MST (-6 UMT)

that was awesome rob!


BirminghamBen


Oct 16, 2009, 8:52 PM
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lena_chita wrote:
After that, I swear, I am joining a self-imposed cam-of-the-month club.

Ah, yes...ye olde cam of the month club...definately goes toward filling out the rack.


unrest


Oct 17, 2009, 6:13 AM
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BirminghamBen wrote:
Ah, yes...ye olde cam of the month club...definately goes toward filling out the rack.

I swear I read that four times before I realized you ended with rack and not crack and either word works just as well and carries interchangeable meanings.

Was just doing a climb tonight it was a bit dicey. We had 20 feet of runout with a very fingery bulge crux that almost took your feet out. We decided to avoid the 40 footer and place a mastercam 00, said a prayer to the Camalots still on the "rack" and sent it.

Once we rigged it for TR we loaded the master cam with a 1 foot fall to see if it would hold ( the placement seemed impossibly thin and shallow ) that sucker was bomber. I bet we could have whipped 20 feet on that thing and been okay.

We were wanting to fill up a crack but with the runout we filled up our rack.


qwert


Oct 17, 2009, 9:53 AM
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Re: [ladyscarlett] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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ladyscarlett wrote:
...
However, I can't deny the pleasure of a good set of nuts at hand, feels good in so many ways!Wink
...
As an Asian girl ...this is the first time ever talking to a dude who couldn't take his eyes off my rack.
...
I cannot believe that noone commented on those two gems yet Wink

So if you want that even more guys look onto your asian rack you have to make it bigger!
Valley giants are an option, but maybe a bit hard to get. If you want big cans err cams you should look into a pair of those things. Quite cheap for the size and definitely an eye catcher.
dont know for what you would use them apart from a conversation piece.

Ok, that's it from me as far as stupid comments go Cool

back to topic: Hexes might also be usefull, but be prepared to soon wanting to replace them with cams.
But if you need bigger gear on a budget hexes can be a nice addition.

so my suggestion: a set of nuts (for standart nuts brand probably doesnt matter) and 3 to 4 hexes (or maybe those sweet looking things

qwert


TJGoSurf


Oct 17, 2009, 1:42 PM
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Re: [qwert] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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I didn't comment because I like small racks. Big ones get in the way. You tell them to put their hips to the wall and they tell you its as close as it will get because the rack is in the way.


ladyscarlett


Oct 19, 2009, 8:00 AM
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TJGoSurf wrote:
I didn't comment because I like small racks. Big ones get in the way. You tell them to put their hips to the wall and they tell you its as close as it will get because the rack is in the way.

Strangely enough I have never had this particular problem, two reasons off the top of my head.

- I'm so short that my pieces actually hang well below my hips ( and butt!), almost below the knee, therefore the gear rarely gets in the way of my hips. My feet, knees, and shins, yes, but rarely my hips. I also might not be climbing the right climbs and next trip I'm going to be cursing at my rack being in the way...

- Maybe the rack I get to use is juuuuust the right size! Until it's time for that REALLY wide crack that is in my future.

Sounds like he/she are asking for the next climb to be wide offwidth and wide chimney!

Also, I clicked on that link to DMM. The pictures were distracting, and an intriguing idea. Still trying to imagine how they would look and feel in a crack...

cheers!

ls


k.l.k


Oct 19, 2009, 7:56 PM
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congrats.

all downhill from here.

and not always in a good way.


qwert


Oct 20, 2009, 8:07 PM
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ladyscarlett wrote:
Also, I clicked on that link to DMM. The pictures were distracting, and an intriguing idea. Still trying to imagine how they would look and feel in a crack...


What kind of antisocial lunatic would offer a young woman a link to DMM? You will get lost in all their shiny stuff! Crazy





Angelic
Welcome to gearwhoredom Cool

qwert


possum2082


Oct 21, 2009, 11:00 AM
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Re: [Alpinisto] My First Piece!! [In reply to]
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In reply to:
that's a kinda big piece for your first one, innit? Where you climb at?

yeah...it was. "big" cams are just cooler. my partner just bought a #6 c 4 and i'm freaking out to use it.

i climb at the red river gorge and the cracks are not uniform for the most part.

In reply to:
you should look into a pair of these...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...rum.cgi?post=2182700

hey! that's my chapstick!


(This post was edited by possum2082 on Oct 21, 2009, 11:04 AM)

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