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ladyscarlett
Oct 12, 2009, 8:40 PM
Post #26 of 55
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Thanks for the encouragement and not laughing too hard at my newbie enthusiasm over the little things. It's just that it's MINE! Really MINE!
I have tried to use tricams before, but have only succeeded in one solid placement in the many attempts. I was thinking of them on the theory that if I have them, I'll get better at placing.
However, I can't deny the pleasure of a good set of nuts at hand, feels good in so many ways! But the communal rack already has a double set, so I'm going to wait a little longer.
Thanks for the tip on Mountain Project as well!
On the "nice rack" note, I recently had a funny interaction chatting with someone after coming off a lead. We're talking about the climbing day and I realize that he isn't focused on my face. He just can't keep his eyes off my hips/below the waist/backside. I find it a little weird until I realize he's checking out/sizing up my (the communal) rack!
As an Asian girl ...this is the first time ever talking to a dude who couldn't take his eyes off my rack.
So
Much
Fun!
cheers
ls
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robdotcalm
Oct 12, 2009, 9:41 PM
Post #27 of 55
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
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LS,
Forget all this talk about getting wimpy gear such as stoppers. Get something that will show people you’re one tough climber –get Valley Giants and proudly hold them up for all to see. Believe me, you will get a lot of comments on your rack.
For the first 5 or so years I climbed, it was always a communal rack. If you have steady partners, it’s a good way to go. The first time I used a camming device, it was a #4 Friend that my partner owned. I was skeptical of this heavy, cumbersome device but decided to try it out. When Rod arrived at the belay, I told him how wonderful the Friend was and that it had built in smarts. He asked what I was talking about. I told him I placed it and then it followed me up the crack for 15’, which I thought was great. Rod then lectured me on properly slinging Friends and on the dangers of its walking.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
12-Oct-09 15:30:00 MST (-6 UMT)
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ValleyGiantsRC.jpg
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hafilax
Oct 13, 2009, 2:13 AM
Post #28 of 55
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This weekend I discovered that one of my cams is missing. I probably neglected to put it in my bag after a day in the Bluffs. Having bootied a brand new C4 I'm back to even but it's sad to not have one of the original pieces of my rack out of sheer carelessness. I have others of the same size but it's just not the same. 
So keep an eye on your rack and don't let any doggies go astray.
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saxfiend
Oct 13, 2009, 2:50 AM
Post #29 of 55
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ladyscarlett wrote: So far, this newbie's personal* rack consists of -3 lockers -3 trad draws -#3 C4 cam -long sling for anchor material
JL
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billcoe_
Oct 13, 2009, 4:12 AM
Post #30 of 55
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Congrats lady scarlett! You're now on your way to being a gear whore. It happened to me. I still remember, have, and occasionally still use my first 3 pieces: bought in 1971. Chouinard 6,7 and 8 Hexes that I slung with rope.
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notapplicable
Oct 13, 2009, 4:31 AM
Post #31 of 55
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saxfiend wrote: ladyscarlett wrote: So far, this newbie's personal* rack consists of -3 lockers -3 trad draws -#3 C4 cam -long sling for anchor material If you were in North Carolina, you'd be all set. JL
Frighteningly close to the truth.
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scottydo
Oct 13, 2009, 6:02 AM
Post #33 of 55
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Posts: 121
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welcome to the black hole that is being a gear junkie!
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cantbuymefriends
Oct 13, 2009, 8:27 AM
Post #34 of 55
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Registered: Aug 28, 2003
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Heh!
I just put a #3 C4 on the wish list for Christmas.
Got top get some more. I've got 13 camming devices right now, that can't be good. I mean, bad karma and all that.
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subantz
Oct 14, 2009, 8:58 AM
Post #35 of 55
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I remember my first Piece. The lights were low. The mood was right. And alittle Method Man playing in the back ground. AHHHH those were the days.
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 14, 2009, 2:47 PM
Post #36 of 55
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ladyscarlett wrote: -3 lockers -3 trad draws -#3 C4 cam
 Josh
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Alpinisto
Oct 16, 2009, 1:35 AM
Post #37 of 55
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Registered: May 11, 2007
Posts: 118
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possum2082 wrote: man...i was so excited when i got my first cam: a trango #8 flex cam. i was so ready.
That's a kinda big piece for your first one, innit? Where you climb at?
(FYI, I'm not knocking the FlexCam -- I own a whole set!)
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zeke_sf
Oct 16, 2009, 5:22 AM
Post #38 of 55
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subantz wrote: I remember my first Piece. The lights were low. The mood was right. And alittle Method Man playing in the back ground. AHHHH those were the days.
Whoever rated you a one on this is a humorlous assklown whose last "piece" was their own thumb in a dark, painful place; that was great. *****
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subantz
Oct 16, 2009, 5:38 PM
Post #39 of 55
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That is what first came to mind when I saw the title. I answer some threads like that. I never even look at the stars. But sometimes ya just feel like being a bit well. Hell with out comments like these RC.com would die. I remember my first piece. It was the Rope. then Quik draws. Just kiddin folks. Oh crap another 1 star post.
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evanwish
Oct 16, 2009, 7:05 PM
Post #40 of 55
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Registered: May 23, 2007
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robdotcalm wrote: The first time I used a camming device, it was a #4 Friend that my partner owned. I was skeptical of this heavy, cumbersome device but decided to try it out. When Rod arrived at the belay, I told him how wonderful the Friend was and that it had built in smarts. He asked what I was talking about. I told him I placed it and then it followed me up the crack for 15’, which I thought was great. Rod then lectured me on properly slinging Friends and on the dangers of its walking. Cheers, Rob.calm
PRICELESS!!!
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lena_chita
Moderator
Oct 16, 2009, 7:51 PM
Post #41 of 55
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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Yay! I understand the excitement!
My first was a set of wild country stoppers. I won them in a comp.
A 'drawback' of climbing with partners who have a good rack already-- no imediate pressure to buy.
But I am so, SOOO ready. I am saving for a Christmas gift to myself. That would be a set of four BD C4s to start, and some slings and 'biners. After that, I swear, I am joining a self-imposed cam-of-the-month club.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 16, 2009, 8:31 PM
Post #42 of 55
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
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robdotcalm wrote: For the first 5 or so years I climbed, it was always a communal rack. If you have steady partners, it’s a good way to go. The first time I used a camming device, it was a #4 Friend that my partner owned. I was skeptical of this heavy, cumbersome device but decided to try it out. When Rod arrived at the belay, I told him how wonderful the Friend was and that it had built in smarts. He asked what I was talking about. I told him I placed it and then it followed me up the crack for 15’, which I thought was great. Rod then lectured me on properly slinging Friends and on the dangers of its walking. Cheers, Rob.calm 12-Oct-09 15:30:00 MST (-6 UMT)
that was awesome rob!
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BirminghamBen
Oct 16, 2009, 8:52 PM
Post #43 of 55
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Registered: Jul 23, 2009
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lena_chita wrote: After that, I swear, I am joining a self-imposed cam-of-the-month club.
Ah, yes...ye olde cam of the month club...definately goes toward filling out the rack.
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unrest
Oct 17, 2009, 6:13 AM
Post #44 of 55
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BirminghamBen wrote: Ah, yes...ye olde cam of the month club...definately goes toward filling out the rack.
I swear I read that four times before I realized you ended with rack and not crack and either word works just as well and carries interchangeable meanings.
Was just doing a climb tonight it was a bit dicey. We had 20 feet of runout with a very fingery bulge crux that almost took your feet out. We decided to avoid the 40 footer and place a mastercam 00, said a prayer to the Camalots still on the "rack" and sent it.
Once we rigged it for TR we loaded the master cam with a 1 foot fall to see if it would hold ( the placement seemed impossibly thin and shallow ) that sucker was bomber. I bet we could have whipped 20 feet on that thing and been okay.
We were wanting to fill up a crack but with the runout we filled up our rack.
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qwert
Oct 17, 2009, 9:53 AM
Post #45 of 55
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ladyscarlett wrote: ... However, I can't deny the pleasure of a good set of nuts at hand, feels good in so many ways! ... As an Asian girl ...this is the first time ever talking to a dude who couldn't take his eyes off my rack. ...
So if you want that even more guys look onto your asian rack you have to make it bigger!
Valley giants are an option, but maybe a bit hard to get. If you want big cans err cams you should look into a pair of those things. Quite cheap for the size and definitely an eye catcher.
dont know for what you would use them apart from a conversation piece.
Ok, that's it from me as far as stupid comments go
back to topic: Hexes might also be usefull, but be prepared to soon wanting to replace them with cams.
But if you need bigger gear on a budget hexes can be a nice addition.
so my suggestion: a set of nuts (for standart nuts brand probably doesnt matter) and 3 to 4 hexes (or maybe those sweet looking things
qwert
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TJGoSurf
Oct 17, 2009, 1:42 PM
Post #46 of 55
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I didn't comment because I like small racks. Big ones get in the way. You tell them to put their hips to the wall and they tell you its as close as it will get because the rack is in the way.
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ladyscarlett
Oct 19, 2009, 8:00 AM
Post #47 of 55
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TJGoSurf wrote: I didn't comment because I like small racks. Big ones get in the way. You tell them to put their hips to the wall and they tell you its as close as it will get because the rack is in the way.
Strangely enough I have never had this particular problem, two reasons off the top of my head.
- I'm so short that my pieces actually hang well below my hips ( and butt!), almost below the knee, therefore the gear rarely gets in the way of my hips. My feet, knees, and shins, yes, but rarely my hips. I also might not be climbing the right climbs and next trip I'm going to be cursing at my rack being in the way...
- Maybe the rack I get to use is juuuuust the right size! Until it's time for that REALLY wide crack that is in my future.
Sounds like he/she are asking for the next climb to be wide offwidth and wide chimney!
Also, I clicked on that link to DMM. The pictures were distracting, and an intriguing idea. Still trying to imagine how they would look and feel in a crack...
cheers!
ls
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k.l.k
Oct 19, 2009, 7:56 PM
Post #48 of 55
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Posts: 1190
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congrats.
all downhill from here.
and not always in a good way.
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possum2082
Oct 21, 2009, 11:00 AM
Post #50 of 55
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Registered: Feb 26, 2008
Posts: 218
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In reply to: that's a kinda big piece for your first one, innit? Where you climb at?
yeah...it was. "big" cams are just cooler. my partner just bought a #6 c 4 and i'm freaking out to use it.
i climb at the red river gorge and the cracks are not uniform for the most part.
In reply to: you should look into a pair of these...
hey! that's my chapstick!
(This post was edited by possum2082 on Oct 21, 2009, 11:04 AM)
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