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Poll: Which shoe poll thingie
Evolv Optimus Prime 7 / 15%
Mad Rock Jester 6 / 13%
Clown Shoes 9 / 19%
FiveTen Anasazi (hook and loop) 11 / 23%
FiveTen Galileo 2 / 4%
Bowling Shoes 9 / 19%
Scarpa Booster 3 / 6%
47 total votes
 

icanribbit


Dec 17, 2009, 9:45 PM
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Which shoe poll thingie
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If you were me, which you arent, which shoe would you pick and why?

(By the way, since you are me, which you aren't, you would like sport climbing and bouldering and would curretly climb around 5.10c and V4-5)

I'm looking for some feedback before I drop $100+ on a pair of shoes. I climb in Five Ten Coyote lace ups right now and I dont like them.

Thanks


shockabuku


Dec 17, 2009, 9:58 PM
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Why these choices?

Comments:

My daughter had a pair of Optimus Primes. After having climbed for a few years in assymetrical shoes, she didn't like the shape of the Primes.

Clown shoes are cool and they generally don't fit so tight.

5.10 Anasazi velcro don't fit my feet well. Nice shoe from what I hear.

Galileo is stiff and flat but climbs okay. Wouldn't be my first choice for a bouldering or sport climbing shoe.

Bowling shoes are badass. I love the color schemes. And if you can climb in them, you're badass too.

Scarpa Booster. Nice shoe, well made, good choice for steeper sport climbing and bouldering.

Fit would be one of my primary concerns and most of these shoes are going to fit considerably differently than each other. Why no Sportivas? Sportiva Miura VS is my choice for sport and bouldering.


lagwagonpcp


Dec 17, 2009, 11:09 PM
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mad rock eats it. evolve is kind of ok. scarpa is cool. five ten has nice rubber. any anasazi will be nice


icanribbit


Dec 17, 2009, 11:14 PM
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these choices all have a few key things I'm looking for, roughly but mostly they are all not lace up shoes. I chose these too because I can find pretty much all of these on sale! and who doesn't like a good piece of gear on sale?

Thanks for the feedback so far, really appreciated!


icanribbit


Dec 17, 2009, 11:16 PM
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lagwagonpcp wrote:
mad rock eats it. evolve is kind of ok. scarpa is cool. five ten has nice rubber. any anasazi will be nice

Thanks for your feedback

any particular reason you don't like MadRocks?


shockabuku


Dec 17, 2009, 11:41 PM
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icanribbit wrote:
lagwagonpcp wrote:
mad rock eats it. evolve is kind of ok. scarpa is cool. five ten has nice rubber. any anasazi will be nice

Thanks for your feedback

any particular reason you don't like MadRocks?

'Cause they're cheap.


lagwagonpcp


Dec 17, 2009, 11:47 PM
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word. way to cheap. they must be upto something. dont like it.


johnwesely


Dec 17, 2009, 11:57 PM
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icanribbit wrote:
lagwagonpcp wrote:
mad rock eats it. evolve is kind of ok. scarpa is cool. five ten has nice rubber. any anasazi will be nice

Thanks for your feedback

any particular reason you don't like MadRocks?

I really like MadRocks. I guess I suck. I am currently climbing on Evolv Pontas though because I won them in a comp and they are pretty nice, but it has been really hard for me to feel secure on anything but gym holds and perfectly flat edges because of the stiff sole.


shockabuku


Dec 18, 2009, 12:51 AM
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lagwagonpcp wrote:
word. way to cheap. they must be upto something. dont like it.

I meant cheap as in - I don't appreciate their quality.


Partner angry


Dec 18, 2009, 1:15 AM
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icanribbit wrote:
If you were me, which you arent, which shoe would you pick and why?

(By the way, since you are me, which you aren't,

If you were me and I was you, I'd probably wish I could climb as smooth as me too.


climberkid15


Dec 18, 2009, 1:39 AM
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Go with Acopa, I cant rember what model but there the slippers.. there have realy nice rubber and they wont strech out of there original fit.


shockabuku


Dec 18, 2009, 1:49 AM
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climberkid15 wrote:
Go with Acopa, I cant rember what model but there the slippers.. there have realy nice rubber and they wont strech out of there original fit.

Really, really, work on the writing skills.


rockforlife


Dec 18, 2009, 2:01 AM
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angry wrote:
icanribbit wrote:
If you were me, which you arent, which shoe would you pick and why?

(By the way, since you are me, which you aren't,

If you were me and I was you, I'd probably wish I could climb as smooth as me you too.


Partner angry


Dec 18, 2009, 2:04 AM
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rockforlife wrote:
angry wrote:
icanribbit wrote:
If you were me, which you arent, which shoe would you pick and why?

(By the way, since you are me, which you aren't,

If you were me and I was you, I'd probably wish I could climb as smooth as me you too.

Incorrect.


granite_grrl


Dec 18, 2009, 2:14 AM
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Just get the Anasazis. They're a bit of a base line for velcro shoes, and I'm sure anyone can wear them if they down size them enough.

Horrible advise, but till the OP knows what he's actually looking for in a shoe he might as well get one of the most standard shoes out there and learn what he likes and doesn't like about them. No one on this board can tell him what's the best shoe for him.


tradrenn


Dec 18, 2009, 2:59 AM
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johnwesely wrote:
I really like MadRocks. I guess I suck.

I guess I suck too. I just bought MadRocks Frenzy and (after flaming MadRock for years) I'm loving them, at the moment I think they might be one of the most comfortable crack climbing shoes I ever own.

Hopefully this time around they will last me more than 3 months.

V.


Myxomatosis


Dec 18, 2009, 3:25 AM
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johnwesely wrote:
icanribbit wrote:
lagwagonpcp wrote:
mad rock eats it. evolve is kind of ok. scarpa is cool. five ten has nice rubber. any anasazi will be nice

Thanks for your feedback

any particular reason you don't like MadRocks?

I really like MadRocks. I guess I suck. I am currently climbing on Evolv Pontas though because I won them in a comp and they are pretty nice, but it has been really hard for me to feel secure on anything but gym holds and perfectly flat edges because of the stiff sole.

Dont worry, they will soften up after awhile and become good on smearing.


onrockandice


Dec 18, 2009, 4:02 AM
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I've been through a lot of shoes by a lot of makers and the two I've grown to love are the two you haven't listed.

The acopa merlin is a sick shoe. It climbs very well. Strengths are high marks across the board. Weaknesses are soft rubber, don't plan on more than 6 months use if you climb hard. That soft rubber is what makes them so incredible though. They turn your feet blue and I think that's just stoopid.

My favorite is the La Sportiva Miura VS and it's the all around killing it shoe for me. Bouldering, cracks, face, you name it. It's a shoe that totally motivates me to get on 5.hard and love it. Weaknesses? None really. But try lots of them on. Sizing is critical. They are a 4mm thick rand which means stiff. Some don't like that. I love it. I climb better in this shoe.

So there you go.


jh_angel


Dec 18, 2009, 4:32 AM
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Try on a bunch a buy the ones that fit best. I'm doubting that you need a really aggressive shoe at the moment, so get a nice flat shoe with a soft sole that you can make turn down with your toes if you need it. Any brand is good to go except boreal, the rubber is way too stiff. I've worn many brands over the years, but personally I favor Mad Rock and La Sportiva.


rhythm164


Dec 18, 2009, 4:42 AM
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angry wrote:
icanribbit wrote:
If you were me, which you arent, which shoe would you pick and why?

(By the way, since you are me, which you aren't,

If you were me and I was you, I'd probably wish I could climb as smooth as me too.

Odub dab


icanribbit


Dec 18, 2009, 1:38 PM
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angry wrote:
icanribbit wrote:
If you were me, which you arent, which shoe would you pick and why?

(By the way, since you are me, which you aren't,

If you were me and I was you, I'd probably wish I could climb as smooth as me too.

I don't know you. Why the hell would I want to climb like you? That being said, I know I suck at climbing. But I don't care. (start flaming me now)


icanribbit


Dec 18, 2009, 1:39 PM
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onrockandice wrote:
I've been through a lot of shoes by a lot of makers and the two I've grown to love are the two you haven't listed.

The acopa merlin is a sick shoe. It climbs very well. Strengths are high marks across the board. Weaknesses are soft rubber, don't plan on more than 6 months use if you climb hard. That soft rubber is what makes them so incredible though. They turn your feet blue and I think that's just stoopid.

My favorite is the La Sportiva Miura VS and it's the all around killing it shoe for me. Bouldering, cracks, face, you name it. It's a shoe that totally motivates me to get on 5.hard and love it. Weaknesses? None really. But try lots of them on. Sizing is critical. They are a 4mm thick rand which means stiff. Some don't like that. I love it. I climb better in this shoe.

So there you go.

Havent heard of either of those shoes, but I'll be sure to check them out. Thanks!!!!


icanribbit


Dec 18, 2009, 1:41 PM
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granite_grrl wrote:
Just get the Anasazis. They're a bit of a base line for velcro shoes, and I'm sure anyone can wear them if they down size them enough.

Horrible advise, but till the OP knows what he's actually looking for in a shoe he might as well get one of the most standard shoes out there and learn what he likes and doesn't like about them. No one on this board can tell him what's the best shoe for him.

Hmmm thanks for your input. I get what you mean about a baseline type shoe - I'll be sure to investigate them thoroughly.


icanribbit


Dec 18, 2009, 1:45 PM
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shockabuku wrote:
lagwagonpcp wrote:
word. way to cheap. they must be upto something. dont like it.

I meant cheap as in - I don't appreciate their quality.

Quality is important to me. But I do notice a huge price difference between the MadRocks top of the line shoes and pretty much everyone elses shoes. I could, in theory, buy two different pair of MadRocks for almost the same price as some of these other shoes.... but again they would probbaly wear out a bit faster than the higher quality shoes.....

Anyone climb on Mad Rocks say 2 or more times a week, and seen the shoes deteriorate way too fast?


kachoong


Dec 18, 2009, 2:12 PM
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icanribbit wrote:
I chose these too because I can find pretty much all of these on sale! and who doesn't like a good piece of gear on sale?

Where? I have been looking for a pair of cheap clown shoes for a long time. They never go on sale!

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