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Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG
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shotwell


Apr 17, 2010, 10:23 PM
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     Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG
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Today at the Darkside, RRG, a climber, first name of Mike, decked from approximately 30 feet. I came over from Solar Collector to assist with the rescue and participated in the litter crew.

I'm not qualified to discuss the specific trauma of the accident, though others who were on scene certainly are. All I feel comfortable saying is that I know the climber was alive when we arrived at the ambulance.

Please, to anyone who was an eyewitness to the accident or knows what happened to Mike from the point he entered the ambulance, let me know what happened.

I would like to thank all my fellow climbers who assisted in getting him out of there. The terrain is rugged for a litter carry and several of us had just done a lot of running to make sure the required equipment got there in a timely fashion. A large number of climbers were involved in this rescue. Thank you to the paramedics and the rescue crew as well.

My thoughts go out to Mike, his family, and the people he was climbing with. Thank you in advance for any information you can provide.


asfoundry


Apr 18, 2010, 12:35 PM
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It's hard getting information, but Mike made it through the night. He's in critical, but stable condition. http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=102981189744771


yodadave


Apr 18, 2010, 1:05 PM
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http://www.facebook.com/...?gid=102981189744771

hopes and prayers


asfoundry


Apr 18, 2010, 3:07 PM
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Thank you everyone that helped with the recue on Saturday!


moose_droppings


Apr 18, 2010, 4:25 PM
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Hoping for the best and speedy outcome.


lena_chita
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Apr 19, 2010, 3:27 AM
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We were at the hospital this afternoon, but there were no new developments. Keep Mike in your thoughts...

He was lucky (if such term could be used...), that there were so many people on the scene to help out with the rescue.


majid_sabet


Apr 19, 2010, 4:23 AM
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Can anyone tell us what happen there?

Thanks


clausti


Apr 19, 2010, 1:18 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
Can anyone tell us what happen there?

Thanks

the link to facebook above has all of the info currently publicly available.


dreday3000


Apr 19, 2010, 2:30 PM
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Mike is a good dude. All the best for a speedy recovery.


Partner camhead


Apr 19, 2010, 3:05 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
Can anyone tell us what happen there?

Thanks

no.


clausti


Apr 19, 2010, 3:34 PM
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i also wanted to add that my best thoughts and strongest hopes go out mike and his family for a speedy recovery. and my thanks to the climbers that were there to run info and equipment and carry mike down. it takes many hands to do that.


edge


Apr 19, 2010, 4:24 PM
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clausti wrote:
i also wanted to add that my best thoughts and strongest hopes go out mike and his family for a speedy recovery. and my thanks to the climbers that were there to run info and equipment and carry mike down. it takes many hands to do that.

Well said. My thoughts and prayers are with this climber for a speedy recovery.


Partner macherry


Apr 19, 2010, 4:45 PM
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edge wrote:
clausti wrote:
i also wanted to add that my best thoughts and strongest hopes go out mike and his family for a speedy recovery. and my thanks to the climbers that were there to run info and equipment and carry mike down. it takes many hands to do that.

Well said. My thoughts and prayers are with this climber for a speedy recovery.

i'll add my thoughts and prayers too!! here's hoping for a speedy recovery


klinich615


Apr 20, 2010, 5:19 PM
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I am a close friend of Mike, we graduated high school together and began climbing together. Many of us are frustrated and puzzled because we do not know what went wrong and led Mike to where he is now: in critical condition. Mike is a very safe, experienced and calculated climber who does not take unnecessary risks.

Is there anyone out there who was on-site or witnessed the accident? Any information would help greatly. Thank you all for your help on-site, thoughts, prayers, and well-wishes for Mike and his recovery.


boymeetsrock


Apr 20, 2010, 5:23 PM
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Best wishes for a full recovery. Thoughts and prayers to all involved.


onrockandice


Apr 21, 2010, 4:15 AM
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This forum and this thread seem to be less obfuscated than that facebook page. There is some noise but it's mosly people putting together what happened.

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/...p;highlight=accident


lena_chita
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Apr 21, 2010, 2:59 PM
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onrockandice wrote:
This forum and this thread seem to be less obfuscated than that facebook page. There is some noise but it's mosly people putting together what happened.

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/...p;highlight=accident

Please consider the wishes of Mike's family that were clearly stated on the facebook page.

The do have a good idea of what happened, they have talked to the belayer, they had climbers who were there and who are still helping out at the hospital explain the inherent risks of climbing to them, and how much climbing meant to Mike.

They do not want this discussed all over the place, they do not want the blame assigned, etc. etc. They cannot silence everyone, but they have asked for it, and we can respect their wishes.

None of it would help Mike.

I am sure there would be a full report eventually, but right now people who were/are closely involved have other priorities.



And as far as the armchair analysts' need to "understand what happened"-- well, it is quite simple, really. There are only so many ways you can mess up a system, and you already know about all of them.

Accidents like that have happened before, and will likely happen again, this wasn't a novel way of system failure, there is nothing new to learn.

Every climber and belayer already knows that safety is vitally important, and every climber and belayer could probably do a better job at being safe than they are currently doing. That means you, me, and everyone else.


Partner camhead


Apr 21, 2010, 3:18 PM
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very well put, Lena.


patto


Apr 21, 2010, 4:11 PM
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lena_chita wrote:
And as far as the armchair analysts' need to "understand what happened"-- well, it is quite simple, really. There are only so many ways you can mess up a system, and you already know about all of them.

Accidents like that have happened before, and will likely happen again, this wasn't a novel way of system failure, there is nothing new to learn.

Every climber and belayer already knows that safety is vitally important, and every climber and belayer could probably do a better job at being safe than they are currently doing. That means you, me, and everyone else.

While nobody has the right to demand information. I see little reason in complaining about speculation and discussion when all this could be simply ended.

Just say:
belay failure
clipping failure
tying-in failure
harness failure
rope failure

And all speculation will stop. (well actually the bottom two would probably start intense discussion, but I presume neither correct.)


Partner camhead


Apr 21, 2010, 4:17 PM
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patto wrote:
Just say:
belay failure
clipping failure
tying-in failure
harness failure
rope failure

And all speculation will stop.

All speculation will stop? Your naivety about how people on this site act is astounding.


jefffski


Apr 21, 2010, 7:01 PM
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While I respect the family's need to get past this event, they also need to understand our needs. Whenever there is an accident, many of us think "That could have been me. How can I make sure that it won't happen to me."

For many of us, this is our motivation. If anything can be gained from this person's injuries, it may be to prevent it happening to someone else.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery.


clausti


Apr 21, 2010, 7:21 PM
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jefffski wrote:
While I respect the family's need to get past this event, they also need to understand our needs. Whenever there is an accident, many of us think "That could have been me. How can I make sure that it won't happen to me."

For many of us, this is our motivation. If anything can be gained from this person's injuries, it may be to prevent it happening to someone else.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery.

for information on what you can learn from this accident, please see here:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=2322534#2322534


caughtinside


Apr 21, 2010, 7:22 PM
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jefffski wrote:
While I respect the family's need to get past this event, they also need to understand our needs.

I don't think they need to understand your need at all. If and when they choose to do so, it can be after a reasonable period of time. You've managed so far, you might survive a few more climbing trips without having to know right now what happened.


wonderwoman


Apr 21, 2010, 7:31 PM
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Agreed. Answers never come that quickly after an accident. I am willing to bet that there are many people trying to process and analyze things right now. Give it some time and things will surface. But there is never an automatic print out of the event whenever something terrible like this happens to a climber. Give it time.

My thoughts go out to Mike, his family and his belayer. He sounds like a well loved and strong guy. Here is to him pulling through. I am always so sorry to read about things like this, but also know that people in Mike's situation can make it through amazing odds.


majid_sabet


Apr 21, 2010, 9:02 PM
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jefffski wrote:
While I respect the family's need to get past this event, they also need to understand our needs. Whenever there is an accident, many of us think "That could have been me. How can I make sure that it won't happen to me."

For many of us, this is our motivation. If anything can be gained from this person's injuries, it may be to prevent it happening to someone else.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery.

I hate politics and believe it or not, even key players on this very site do put things under the carpet at times.

The reality is that that accident happens and climbers do make mistakes. IMO, Every climber in the world has the right to know the detail of each climbing accident cause these sort of information is what keep us alive. learning from others mistake or whatever is not something you want to be conservative on or keep it hidden.


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Apr 21, 2010, 9:03 PM)


clausti


Apr 21, 2010, 9:29 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
IMO, Every climber in the world has the right to know the detail of each climbing accident cause these sort of information is what keep us alive.

well, your opinion is incorrect. no civilian adult has the "right" to interrogate any other civilian adult about where they were and what they were doing, exactly, at any given time.

the climber is still in the hospital. out of respect for his family, we need to be respectful. self-important demands for information are not respectful. people's families really do read this stuff.

and, as always, our continual thoughts and prayers go with mike for his recovery.


granite_grrl


Apr 21, 2010, 10:16 PM
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jefffski wrote:
While I respect the family's need to get past this event, they also need to understand our needs. Whenever there is an accident, many of us think "That could have been me. How can I make sure that it won't happen to me."

For many of us, this is our motivation. If anything can be gained from this person's injuries, it may be to prevent it happening to someone else.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery.
I hate to tell you this, but sometimes shit just happens. No ones fault, and nothing that you can learn from it.

When accident analysis happen people like to assign blame. They figure if they can blame the accident on the belayer, or the climber, or the weather, or whatever they can sit back, relax and say "well, I'll never let that happen to me". The people who have gone through these accidents have to deal with this questioning and the blame, it's not fun. I don't blame anyone for not wanting to deal with it, especially if they're sitting in a hospital just trying get better.

But hey, if you want to make sure accidents like this don't happen to you I suggest you stop climbing. That's the only way to be sure.


Shroom


Apr 21, 2010, 10:20 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
jefffski wrote:
While I respect the family's need to get past this event, they also need to understand our needs. Whenever there is an accident, many of us think "That could have been me. How can I make sure that it won't happen to me."

For many of us, this is our motivation. If anything can be gained from this person's injuries, it may be to prevent it happening to someone else.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery.

I hate politics and believe it or not, even key players on this very site do put things under the carpet at times.

The reality is that that accident happens and climbers do make mistakes. IMO, Every climber in the world has the right to know the detail of each climbing accident cause these sort of information is what keep us alive. learning from others mistake or whatever is not something you want to be conservative on or keep it hidden.

Majid, you have let yourself become a caricature whether you know it or not. Any accident draws you to post like flies are drawn to honey water.

You have NO right to ask about details from this incident at this point. Are you special? Is the climbing community, who I assume you will claim you are asking for, due special consideration? At this point a fellow climber is fighting for his life, and you want details NOW for your personal satisfaction? Please respect the climber's friends and families.

Take a step back, and respect the fact that the details are not out there yet. When they are, you can analyze them until you are blue in the teeth. Just do it in a different thread, maybe something displaying your vast experience in the title. You can chest thump, draw arrows, and advocate rapping on dissected ropes there, and the real world can choose to ignore you.

Where have you ever posted your mistakes? I bet you made some. If you were seriously injured would you like your parents stumbling across a majid-did-this-wrong-thread?


iknowfear


Apr 21, 2010, 10:34 PM
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Best Wishes and hang in there Mike! Stay Tough!

--
Since an "Accident and Incident Analysis" is not wanted (and not possible since there is simply no Info) maybe this thread should be locked or moved to general, since this is not an analysis but a get well thread.


blondgecko
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Apr 21, 2010, 11:24 PM
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iknowfear wrote:
Best Wishes and hang in there Mike! Stay Tough!

--
Since an "Accident and Incident Analysis" is not wanted (and not possible since there is simply no Info) maybe this thread should be locked or moved to general, since this is not an analysis but a get well thread.

That could be arranged, with a couple more votes from people more closely associated with Mike and/or his belayer.

Otherwise, I agree with many others who've already posted here. Every person who's climbed outside a gym more than a handful of times (and even a substantial fraction of gym-only climbers) has a collection of "shit happens," "that could have been bad" or "I'm glad I noticed that before it caused a problem" stories. You can say to yourself, "I'm careful, and so that can't happen to me." You can, but you'd be deluding yourself. Shit happens. To everyone, yourself included.

The family of the injured climber has asked for privacy while he does his best to pull through. I don't see any reason why that shouldn't be respected.


majid_sabet


Apr 21, 2010, 11:37 PM
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blondgecko wrote:
iknowfear wrote:
Best Wishes and hang in there Mike! Stay Tough!

--
Since an "Accident and Incident Analysis" is not wanted (and not possible since there is simply no Info) maybe this thread should be locked or moved to general, since this is not an analysis but a get well thread.

That could be arranged, with a couple more votes from people more closely associated with Mike and/or his belayer.

Otherwise, I agree with many others who've already posted here. Every person who's climbed outside a gym more than a handful of times (and even a substantial fraction of gym-only climbers) has a collection of "shit happens," "that could have been bad" or "I'm glad I noticed that before it caused a problem" stories. You can say to yourself, "I'm careful, and so that can't happen to me." You can, but you'd be deluding yourself. Shit happens. To everyone, yourself included.

The family of the injured climber has asked for privacy while he does his best to pull through. I don't see any reason why that shouldn't be respected.

if people in think this particular accident is special and no one should talk about then IMO, MODS should move it to some other forum other than I&A till more facts are present.


majid_sabet


Apr 21, 2010, 11:39 PM
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Shroom wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
jefffski wrote:
While I respect the family's need to get past this event, they also need to understand our needs. Whenever there is an accident, many of us think "That could have been me. How can I make sure that it won't happen to me."

For many of us, this is our motivation. If anything can be gained from this person's injuries, it may be to prevent it happening to someone else.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery.

I hate politics and believe it or not, even key players on this very site do put things under the carpet at times.

The reality is that that accident happens and climbers do make mistakes. IMO, Every climber in the world has the right to know the detail of each climbing accident cause these sort of information is what keep us alive. learning from others mistake or whatever is not something you want to be conservative on or keep it hidden.

Majid, you have let yourself become a caricature whether you know it or not. Any accident draws you to post like flies are drawn to honey water.

You have NO right to ask about details from this incident at this point. Are you special? Is the climbing community, who I assume you will claim you are asking for, due special consideration? At this point a fellow climber is fighting for his life, and you want details NOW for your personal satisfaction? Please respect the climber's friends and families.

Take a step back, and respect the fact that the details are not out there yet. When they are, you can analyze them until you are blue in the teeth. Just do it in a different thread, maybe something displaying your vast experience in the title. You can chest thump, draw arrows, and advocate rapping on dissected ropes there, and the real world can choose to ignore you.

Where have you ever posted your mistakes? I bet you made some. If you were seriously injured would you like your parents stumbling across a majid-did-this-wrong-thread?

This is a climbing accident forum and i have the right to ask what I ever I want to know about this accident. if you guys feel that no one should talk about this accident then do not mention anything about this accident till climber is released from hospital.

And please do not take me wrong. I lost three friends in climbing accidents this year and also posted the accident in forum as well.


blondgecko
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Apr 21, 2010, 11:42 PM
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     Re: [majid_sabet] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
Shroom wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
jefffski wrote:
While I respect the family's need to get past this event, they also need to understand our needs. Whenever there is an accident, many of us think "That could have been me. How can I make sure that it won't happen to me."

For many of us, this is our motivation. If anything can be gained from this person's injuries, it may be to prevent it happening to someone else.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery.

I hate politics and believe it or not, even key players on this very site do put things under the carpet at times.

The reality is that that accident happens and climbers do make mistakes. IMO, Every climber in the world has the right to know the detail of each climbing accident cause these sort of information is what keep us alive. learning from others mistake or whatever is not something you want to be conservative on or keep it hidden.

Majid, you have let yourself become a caricature whether you know it or not. Any accident draws you to post like flies are drawn to honey water.

You have NO right to ask about details from this incident at this point. Are you special? Is the climbing community, who I assume you will claim you are asking for, due special consideration? At this point a fellow climber is fighting for his life, and you want details NOW for your personal satisfaction? Please respect the climber's friends and families.

Take a step back, and respect the fact that the details are not out there yet. When they are, you can analyze them until you are blue in the teeth. Just do it in a different thread, maybe something displaying your vast experience in the title. You can chest thump, draw arrows, and advocate rapping on dissected ropes there, and the real world can choose to ignore you.

Where have you ever posted your mistakes? I bet you made some. If you were seriously injured would you like your parents stumbling across a majid-did-this-wrong-thread?

This is a climbing accident forum and i have the right to ask what I ever I want to know about this accident. if you guys feel that no one should talk about this accident then do not mention anything about this accident till climber is released from hospital.

And please do not take me wrong. I lost three friends in climbing accidents this year and also posted the accident in forum as well.

You have the right to ask. You do not have the right to an answer.


Shroom


Apr 21, 2010, 11:52 PM
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And in case it got mixed up, I wish the young man who fell all the best.


majid_sabet


Apr 22, 2010, 12:08 AM
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     Re: [clausti] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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clausti wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
IMO, Every climber in the world has the right to know the detail of each climbing accident cause these sort of information is what keep us alive.

well, your opinion is incorrect. no civilian adult has the "right" to interrogate any other civilian adult about where they were and what they were doing, exactly, at any given time.

the climber is still in the hospital. out of respect for his family, we need to be respectful. self-important demands for information are not respectful. people's families really do read this stuff.

and, as always, our continual thoughts and prayers go with mike for his recovery.

is your goal to have another climber in the hospital cause you do not others to know what happened ?


blondgecko
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Apr 22, 2010, 12:24 AM
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Keep things on topic, please. No thread drift in this forum.


jefffski


Apr 22, 2010, 12:30 AM
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The name of the thread is accident and incident analysis. It's a terrific tool that I browse frequently and always feel grateful when people, whether they be family members, the injured party, a partner or a witness post about incidents.

I am sensitive to the needs of family and friends who may be too traumatized to reply at once, but others may be in a position to do so. Let's learn, at an appropriate time, about what happened. Until then, our thought are with the victim and his family.


adatesman


Apr 22, 2010, 12:33 AM
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Hey now guys, let's step back a moment and get some perspective...

First, it's already been made clear by people close to the accident that the people directly involved will not be releasing details yet and asked to keep the speculation to a minimum because friends and family are here on RC and don't need to see that sort of thing at the moment. So please, a modicum of empathy and decency would be greatly appreciated as I'm sure these people aren't exactly having a good time right now. Details will doubtless come out once things settle down (by way of the climber recovering from his injuries, I hope), so a bit of patience would be good as well.

Second, there's no need to crowd this thread with discussions of Majid's ambulance chasing. Plenty of other threads on that topic already and seeing as it has NOTHING TO DO WITH THIS ACCIDENT kindly TAKE IT ELSEWHERE out of respect for the family and friends of the climber. They're likely seeing this thread and don't need to see that kind of crap.

-a.


lena_chita
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Apr 22, 2010, 12:50 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
clausti wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
IMO, Every climber in the world has the right to know the detail of each climbing accident cause these sort of information is what keep us alive.

well, your opinion is incorrect. no civilian adult has the "right" to interrogate any other civilian adult about where they were and what they were doing, exactly, at any given time.

the climber is still in the hospital. out of respect for his family, we need to be respectful. self-important demands for information are not respectful. people's families really do read this stuff.

and, as always, our continual thoughts and prayers go with mike for his recovery.

is your goal to have another climber in the hospital cause you do not others to know what happened ?

Majid, please don't twist things around. This is not the case, and you should know it as well as anyone. I cannot think of any accident where knowing the details of the accident analysis on the same day as it happened or waiting for a month or two would make any difference to the climbing community at large.

And just to clarify, I am not personaly in posession of all details and sitting smugly on the important knowledge while other poor unprotected climbers are in danger due to being in the dark.

The accident report will be made, in due time, by people who had the chance to analyze the situation, interview everyone involved, and make a conclusion. I do not know when that would be, anymore than you do.

Inevitably when discussion starts immediately after any accident, there is not a lot of solid information to go on, and a lot of hearsay and speculation. It doesn't benefit anyone, neither the want-to-learn-from-others'-mistakes' people, nor the people who are close to the accident and trying to heal.


bill413


Apr 22, 2010, 1:59 AM
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     Re: [blondgecko] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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blondgecko wrote:
You have the right to ask. You do not have the right to an answer.

Something I wish the general press, and the paparazzi, would learn.

Best wishes to the victims.
Less best to those who think that their curiosity entitles them to intrude on the suffering of others.


bhp


Apr 22, 2010, 2:49 AM
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I have to say I can't fault the curiosity of anyone who wants to know the circumstances of this accident, but I think we owe it to the concerned parties to have a little patience and tact.

On the other hand, we shouldn't underestimate the benefit of having this kind of information. You must learn from the mistakes of others, because you can't possibly live long enough to make them all yourself. Fortunately, such information is not terribly time-critical, but I hope that in due time it will be forthcoming, for the benefit of the greater climbing community.

One realm of civilian life where the public does indeed have the right to the circumstances of an accident is in aviation: The NTSB investigates the causes of accidents and posts both preliminary reports and probable cause conclusions in a publicly searchable database. This forum is about as close as we get to the NTSB database (here if your interested), but suffers in usefulness because it conflates the "get well soon" messages and the technical analysis.

This seems detrimental to both causes, in that those curious about the incident seem callous towards the victim/friends/family, and information about the incident is likely to be withheld because those who know what happened are reluctant to place blame, especially on the injured or deceased.

I wonder if the community might benefit from a more anonymized system for reporting the details of incidents or something, because it seems like this conflict comes up perennially.

Anyway. . .

Get well soon.


sausalito


Apr 22, 2010, 3:05 AM
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granite_grrl wrote:
jefffski wrote:
While I respect the family's need to get past this event, they also need to understand our needs. Whenever there is an accident, many of us think "That could have been me. How can I make sure that it won't happen to me."

For many of us, this is our motivation. If anything can be gained from this person's injuries, it may be to prevent it happening to someone else.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery.
I hate to tell you this, but sometimes shit just happens. No ones fault, and nothing that you can learn from it.

When accident analysis happen people like to assign blame. They figure if they can blame the accident on the belayer, or the climber, or the weather, or whatever they can sit back, relax and say "well, I'll never let that happen to me". The people who have gone through these accidents have to deal with this questioning and the blame, it's not fun. I don't blame anyone for not wanting to deal with it, especially if they're sitting in a hospital just trying get better.

But hey, if you want to make sure accidents like this don't happen to you I suggest you stop climbing. That's the only way to be sure.

Well I am somewhere in the middle here. While I don't think I am owed any sort of explanation I completely disagree with the premise that "sometimes shit happens" and no useful info. can be gleaned from the accident.

Truth is there are people that are probably heading to the RRG as we speak that have no clue of the accident.... *IF* this accident had anything to do with the route itself (groundfall potential if you blow the clip.. ect.) than I think the climbers there are in the wrong for not speaking up. The family does not owe anyone any sort of explanation... climbers on the scene IMO should at least offer direction as to what type of failure occurred.

My thoughts are with the climber and his family. I am logging off now to hug my wife extra tight and tell her I love her...... shit does happen but most of the time shit could have been prevented or subverted somehow.


sausalito


Apr 22, 2010, 3:17 AM
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clausti wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
IMO, Every climber in the world has the right to know the detail of each climbing accident cause these sort of information is what keep us alive.

well, your opinion is incorrect. no civilian adult has the "right" to interrogate any other civilian adult about where they were and what they were doing, exactly, at any given time.

the climber is still in the hospital. out of respect for his family, we need to be respectful. self-important demands for information are not respectful. people's families really do read this stuff.

and, as always, our continual thoughts and prayers go with mike for his recovery.

I understand the need to be respectful but how would it be disrepectful if someone gave factual information regarding the accident? People talking about it on the webernets will not change his condition or outcome so I see little harm in factual info. Conversation should be extremely limited in terms of judging or dissecting the incident.

My main issue is that on the rrg website there was some "guessing" that basically said it could have been bolt spacing/ground fall potential. As a climber if I knew something of that nature that remained a danger was going undiscussed I would feel terrible.

I guess I give benefit of the doubt to those who were there to believe they would pipe up if it was a danger that persists on that route specifically as opposed to a gerneralized climbing danger.


jakedatc


Apr 22, 2010, 3:47 AM
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sausalito wrote:
My main issue is that on the rrg website there was some "guessing" that basically said it could have been bolt spacing/ground fall potential. As a climber if I knew something of that nature that remained a danger was going undiscussed I would feel terrible.

I guess I give benefit of the doubt to those who were there to believe they would pipe up if it was a danger that persists on that route specifically as opposed to a gerneralized climbing danger.

at least one person posted over there that the clipping hold and bolt location are fine. one person said that you don't even need to pull up much rope to clip. And that the person on the route next to the accident said the clipping location was not the cause. future climbers of the route are going to be fine.


jt512


Apr 22, 2010, 4:14 AM
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Yikes. It's been less than a week since I found myself giving 5 stars to a post by USnavy, and here I am finding myself in 100% agreement with Majid. The facts of any accident should be made public, for the benefit of the public. I'm sorry if the parties close to the accident victims are made uncomfortable, but the benefits to the public of knowledge of the facts of the accident outweigh the comfort of the friends and relatives of the parties to the accident.

Jay


Breccan


Apr 22, 2010, 4:19 AM
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Clearly information about the accident will not change the climbers condition and there is rarely, if ever, harm in knowing the hard facts.

That being said, the problem here is that the people directly involved in the accident, who would be able to provide that factual information, are currently dealing with a whole host of other, much more pressing issues. For example, the climber in the hospital. Right now the well being of the climber is far far more important than anything else.

Previous posters with personal connections to the climber and belayer have made it clear that this was an accident that didn't involve anything new or any kind of catastrophic gear failure that needs to be immediately addressed and that careful diligence on the part of all of us will be enough to avoid a similar accident in the future.

The respect the family and friends of the climber and belayer are asking for is time to heal themselves and time to take care of the climber before addressing anything else. Once those things are accomplished, I have no doubt that a more complete and factual report will become available. Until then, its our responsibility to be a supportive community and sit tight to allow the family and belayer the time they need.

Remember the accident happened only 4 days ago and that the climber is seriously injured and still hospitalized. It is disrespectful and irresponsible to expect that family members or the belayer would have time or energy to expend on anything other than healing the injured climber and healing themselves.


patto


Apr 22, 2010, 5:53 AM
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Breccan wrote:
It is disrespectful and irresponsible to expect that family members or the belayer would have time or energy to expend on anything other than healing the injured climber and healing themselves.

There is no expectation that those close to the incident need to make forums posts.

Though when people come to a forum and make lengthy posts and detail that they know what happened but they aren't telling it is just misguided.

Instead people close to the accident have posted vague descriptions of system failure and it just encourages speculation.


clausti


Apr 22, 2010, 11:47 AM
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patto wrote:
Breccan wrote:
It is disrespectful and irresponsible to expect that family members or the belayer would have time or energy to expend on anything other than healing the injured climber and healing themselves.

There is no expectation that those close to the incident need to make forums posts.

Though when people come to a forum and make lengthy posts and detail that they know what happened but they aren't telling it is just misguided.

Instead people close to the accident have posted vague descriptions of system failure and it just encourages speculation.


just because a lot of people know a few things doesn't mean anybody posting here is sitting on information. a lot of people helped with the carry out. a lot of people were at miguel's. a lot of people know pieces.

but nobody other than "those close to the incident" knows the real story of what happened, which is why nobody is telling it. the posters here, myself included, don't have the complete information, and the bits and pieces we do have, we've been asked by the family to chill out on until a more complete picture can be put together. it will be told eventually.

you don't insist that the "accidents in north american mountaineering" be published as individual bulletins 5 days after the fact of each accident, do you? you wait till the end of the year? you can wait a few weeks or months for this.


keep fighting, mike, everybody is pulling for you!


johnwesely


Apr 22, 2010, 12:26 PM
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bhp wrote:
I wonder if the community might benefit from a more anonymized system for reporting the details of incidents or something, because it seems like this conflict comes up perennially.


Get well soon.

The AAC publishes a detailed accident reports book every year. It is much more comprehensive than this forum.
Everyone who is clamoring for information should just chill out a little bit. Whatever caused this accident was not something new or novel. It wasn't pressing before the accident, and it sure is not pressing now. Instead of getting in a tizzy about your own mortality, be a little more careful this weekend. I am sure that would do far more for you than analyzing this accident that is very much still in progress.


Breccan


Apr 22, 2010, 1:41 PM
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I would like to stress that, at this point, there are no "people close to the accident" who actually know what happened. The only people that have the facts are the injured climber and his belayer.

No one is sitting on information and simply choosing not to share it. The "people close to the accident" know nothing more than you do. Attempting to speculate on what may have occurred is, again, irresponsible and hurtful.

And again I would like to mention that it is an unreasonable expectation that either the belayer or the family of the injured climber would make it a priority at this point to inform anyone as to what happened.


gitarooman


Apr 22, 2010, 1:55 PM
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Shroom wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

I hate politics and believe it or not, even key players on this very site do put things under the carpet at times.

The reality is that that accident happens and climbers do make mistakes. IMO, Every climber in the world has the right to know the detail of each climbing accident cause these sort of information is what keep us alive. learning from others mistake or whatever is not something you want to be conservative on or keep it hidden.

Majid, you have let yourself become a caricature whether you know it or not. Any accident draws you to post like flies are drawn to honey water.

You have NO right to ask about details from this incident at this point. Are you special? Is the climbing community, who I assume you will claim you are asking for, due special consideration? At this point a fellow climber is fighting for his life, and you want details NOW for your personal satisfaction? Please respect the climber's friends and families.

Take a step back, and respect the fact that the details are not out there yet. When they are, you can analyze them until you are blue in the teeth. Just do it in a different thread, maybe something displaying your vast experience in the title. You can chest thump, draw arrows, and advocate rapping on dissected ropes there, and the real world can choose to ignore you.

Where have you ever posted your mistakes? I bet you made some. If you were seriously injured would you like your parents stumbling across a majid-did-this-wrong-thread?

Maybe you were mistaken, but Majid has EVERY right in the world to ASK what happened, and I dont necessarily think he is asking for his own personal satisfaction. Those with the information can choose when and whether or not to release it of course.

Majid wasnt being any more persistent or insensitive than anyone else who has posted here or on the other sites asking about what happened. In fact, looking at your posts, you seem to be chasing Majid around criticizing him for every accident he posts. Pot calling the kettle black?

Anyway, like someone said in an earlier post; Is this an accident and incident analysis forum or a well wishing forum? Perhaps there does need to be a division somewhere.

Either way, I wish the injured climber a fast and full recovery.


olderic


Apr 22, 2010, 1:58 PM
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Mike - I don't know you but I am hoping for the best outcome for you. Best wishes,

People should take a look at the type of people who have responded to this thread - The more experienced climbers have overwhelmingly acknowledged that in climbing (and life) accidents happen. Look up the definition of "accident" - act of God. In this situation there are really just a limited number of possible causes - I'm sure most of you could enumerate them. I highly doubt the cause of this accident has never happened before and will never happen again - all the micro analyzing isn't going to reveal anything new but will lead to hard feelings. Here is a question for all you hand wringers demanding full disclosure - do you try and rehash every automobile accident you see or hear about? Is the only thing that is going to let you live through your commute in MA knowing all the details or a fatality in CA? For everyone of you that gets hurt in a climbing accident therer will be 10 of you that get hurt in a car accident.


majid_sabet


Apr 22, 2010, 4:34 PM
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olderic wrote:
Mike - I don't know you but I am hoping for the best outcome for you. Best wishes,

People should take a look at the type of people who have responded to this thread - The more experienced climbers have overwhelmingly acknowledged that in climbing (and life) accidents happen. Look up the definition of "accident" - act of God. In this situation there are really just a limited number of possible causes - I'm sure most of you could enumerate them. I highly doubt the cause of this accident has never happened before and will never happen again - all the micro analyzing isn't going to reveal anything new but will lead to hard feelings. Here is a question for all you hand wringers demanding full disclosure - do you try and rehash every automobile accident you see or hear about? Is the only thing that is going to let you live through your commute in MA knowing all the details or a fatality in CA? For everyone of you that gets hurt in a climbing accident therer will be 10 of you that get hurt in a car accident.

well said


karmiclimber


Apr 22, 2010, 5:42 PM
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Exactly. We can all, maybe even accurately guess what happened. But its just like the people who slow down to see the car crash. Everytime we all go out climbing...okay, let me rephrase...everytime I go climbing, I try to be as safe as possible, but sometimes I just think about what I and my partners have been saved from...all of the times terrible accidents could have happened and they didn't, and I am grateful.

I'm praying for Mike...I hope he comes out of this unscathed and able to live his life to the fullest, without fear, once again.


jt512


Apr 22, 2010, 5:49 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
olderic wrote:
Mike - I don't know you but I am hoping for the best outcome for you. Best wishes,

People should take a look at the type of people who have responded to this thread - The more experienced climbers have overwhelmingly acknowledged that in climbing (and life) accidents happen. Look up the definition of "accident" - act of God. In this situation there are really just a limited number of possible causes - I'm sure most of you could enumerate them. I highly doubt the cause of this accident has never happened before and will never happen again - all the micro analyzing isn't going to reveal anything new but will lead to hard feelings. Here is a question for all you hand wringers demanding full disclosure - do you try and rehash every automobile accident you see or hear about? Is the only thing that is going to let you live through your commute in MA knowing all the details or a fatality in CA? For everyone of you that gets hurt in a climbing accident therer will be 10 of you that get hurt in a car accident.

well said

I'm quite impressed by the number of people who know that this accident was caused by some sort of mundane error from which nothing useful can be learned.

Jay


karmiclimber


Apr 22, 2010, 6:01 PM
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Honestly Jay, I don't think its going to be one of those learning examples. I mean, maybe in a "scared straight" sort of way that screws with your head everytime you climb sort of learning example. The best we can do is read our freedom of the hills and be on point everytime we climb. Focusing on accidents and what causes them is negative...it brings negative thoughts. We should focus on what we have control of when it comes to climbing, because that is positive and gives us power. Some things are out of our control...

Except for the youngins/newbs...they should all be forced to watch videos of people making mistakes and the consequences.


IsayAutumn


Apr 22, 2010, 6:10 PM
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     Re: [karmiclimber] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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karmiclimber wrote:
Honestly Jay, I don't think its going to be one of those learning examples. I mean, maybe in a "scared straight" sort of way that screws with your head everytime you climb sort of learning example. The best we can do is read our freedom of the hills and be on point everytime we climb. Focusing on accidents and what causes them is negative...it brings negative thoughts. We should focus on what we have control of when it comes to climbing, because that is positive and gives us power. Some things are out of our control...

Except for the youngins/newbs...they should all be forced to watch videos of people making mistakes and the consequences.

I'm sorry, but this is wrong. You have no idea what went wrong, and therefore no way to predict what can and can't be learned from it. And "focusing on accidents and what causes them is negative"? Come on! That's almost as bad as saying you should pray every time before roping up. Focusing on the positives is not going to prevent an accident from happening, but learning from others' mistakes can.

Best wishes to Mike for a speedy and full recovery.


jt512


Apr 22, 2010, 6:10 PM
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     Re: [karmiclimber] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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karmiclimber wrote:
Honestly Jay, I don't think its going to be one of those learning examples. I mean, maybe in a "scared straight" sort of way that screws with your head everytime you climb sort of learning example. The best we can do is read our freedom of the hills and be on point everytime we climb. Focusing on accidents and what causes them is negative...it brings negative thoughts. We should focus on what we have control of when it comes to climbing, because that is positive and gives us power. Some things are out of our control...

You know, accident analysis is considered pretty important function in almost every activity I can think of—including, until this thread, anyway, rock climbing.

Jay


karmiclimber


Apr 22, 2010, 6:14 PM
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     Re: [jt512] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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Well, there are 3 speculations floating around as to what went wrong...
1. Failure to belay. Solution: Find someone who doesn't fail to belay.
2. He skipped a bolt. Solution: Don't skip a bolt.
3. He was going for the fourth bolt and from the logistics of the climb, groundfall is likely when going for the fourth bolt, just because of the position of the bolt and and the way the rockface is leaning. Solution: Don't climb climbs where groundfall is likely?
Alright then. So, Jay, what did you learn.


karmiclimber


Apr 22, 2010, 6:18 PM
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     Re: [IsayAutumn] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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Focusing on the positives, as in, being proactive in learning how to climb, belay, rappel, so you can be safe.
Yes, there is much to be learned from mistakes. That is true, I didn't say it wasn't. But in a lot of these cases, it could have been anyone of us...sometimes, shit just happens.


Breccan


Apr 22, 2010, 6:25 PM
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     Re: [jt512] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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I would like to again stress that no one is saying there will not be a full analysis of this accident at some point. However, that point is not right now.

There is a current lack of knowledge about what actually took place during the accident. The people who actually have the facts about the accident are currently very occupied with much more important matters.

Again, the family (and the belayer) of the person involved in the accident are simply asking for time and patience as they try to help the injured climber and to heal themselves before dealing with hashing out the details of the accident. That is not an unreasonable request on their part.


jt512


Apr 22, 2010, 6:31 PM
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     Re: [karmiclimber] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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karmiclimber wrote:
Well, there are 3 speculations floating around as to what went wrong...
1. Failure to belay. Solution: Find someone who doesn't fail to belay.
2. He skipped a bolt. Solution: Don't skip a bolt.
3. He was going for the fourth bolt and from the logistics of the climb, groundfall is likely when going for the fourth bolt, just because of the position of the bolt and and the way the rockface is leaning. Solution: Don't climb climbs where groundfall is likely?
Alright then. So, Jay, what did you learn.

I learned that you are making two unjustified assumptions: one, that the accident was caused by one of those three factors; and 2, that even if it was, that nothing can be learned from it. In short, I learned that you are assuming the conclusion of your argument. Actually, I knew that already.

Jay


karmiclimber


Apr 22, 2010, 6:39 PM
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     Re: [jt512] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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We don't have the information as to what went wrong. Its not available. One of the rescuers said the rope was intact, the belay device was in good working order and placed correctly on the rope and that the rope was, at its highest point, clipped to the third bolt.
If something can be learned from this, that would be excellent. Lets wait til we find out all of the information. I didn't say the accident was caused by one of those 3 factors...I said there were three major speculations floating around. A speculation is not a fact. There, you did learn something.


silascl


Apr 22, 2010, 7:31 PM
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     Re: [Breccan] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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Breccan wrote:
I would like to again stress that no one is saying there will not be a full analysis of this accident at some point. However, that point is not right now.

There is a current lack of knowledge about what actually took place during the accident. The people who actually have the facts about the accident are currently very occupied with much more important matters.

Again, the family (and the belayer) of the person involved in the accident are simply asking for time and patience as they try to help the injured climber and to heal themselves before dealing with hashing out the details of the accident. That is not an unreasonable request on their part.

It's not unreasonable, but it is unlikely. In the absence of information there will be speculation. If that speculation is somehow upsetting to the family or belayer (a response I never understood at all) then they should provide more information to end the speculation or just not visit forums titled "Accident and Incident Analysis".

This same exact series of events happened when Woody Stark fell to his death roughly a year ago. When the report finally did come out it was confusing and led to more speculation. When conclusions about the cause of the accident were reached, the speculation and so called ambulance chasing ended pretty abruptly. The same thing will probably happen with this accident.


glahhg


Apr 22, 2010, 8:04 PM
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     Re: [karmiclimber] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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karmiclimber wrote:
Honestly Jay, I don't think its going to be one of those learning examples.

karmiclimber wrote:
We don't have the information as to what went wrong. Its not available.


Then stop making conclusions.

I think there's always something to be learned from accidents, even if the causes are mundane.

Withholding information is lame.


Partner drector


Apr 22, 2010, 8:08 PM
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     Re: [shotwell] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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The only reason to get the information as quickly as possible is to avoid it being forgotten. The longer people wait to document things, the more inaccurate and confusing the results will become.

If the people involved are all busy with other things, they are not likely to be caring much about a bunch of pseudo-paparazzi on the internet trying to get a "picture" of the accident.

I send my best wishes to those directly involved and hope they get through this successfully.

Dave


karmiclimber


Apr 22, 2010, 8:15 PM
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I didn't make any conclusions. No one can til we have all of the information. The 3 speculations I listed were discussed on redriverclimbing as possibilities as to what happened, based on the information from one of the rescuers.
There is not always something to be learned from accidents. Sorry. That is not ALWAYS true. Sometimes accidents are preventable, and sometimes they aren't. We are human and prone to error. Its easy for us to sit at our computer and decide that if we know all of the information, we could have made different decisions, and maybe that is true, and maybe next time the accident will be you or me.
No one is witholding information. I think the belayer, who is the one with all of the information at this point, is probably more concerned with his friend than posting on rockclimbing.com to tell us what happened and have jay and majid criticize what happened.


glahhg


Apr 22, 2010, 8:21 PM
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karmiclimber wrote:
I didn't make any conclusions. No one can til we have all of the information. The 3 speculations I listed were discussed on redriverclimbing as possibilities as to what happened, based on the information from one of the rescuers.
There is not always something to be learned from accidents. Sorry. That is not ALWAYS true. Sometimes accidents are preventable, and sometimes they aren't. We are human and prone to error. Its easy for us to sit at our computer and decide that if we know all of the information, we could have made different decisions, and maybe that is true, and maybe next time the accident will be you or me.
No one is witholding information. I think the belayer, who is the one with all of the information at this point, is probably more concerned with his friend than posting on rockclimbing.com to tell us what happened and have jay and majid criticize what happened.



You concluded there's nothing to be learned from this accident, without even knowing what happened.

I don't know why you don't want to know what happened, and are fishing for reasons why we shouldn't know either. I think that's a strange position to take. I merely think that if there's information out there, it should be posted, so we can learn from it. Maybe we can't learn from it. But we'll onlyl know that after the details are public.


karmiclimber


Apr 22, 2010, 8:23 PM
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     Re: [glahhg] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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Thats my opinion. I said "I don't think". I didn't say "I know for certain".
My reason for appearing to not want to know what happened at this point is this, I am glad you inquired...I care more about the human life that is at stake right now, than what little information may or may not save my ass on the next climb.


jefffski


Apr 22, 2010, 8:54 PM
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This thread shows just how vulnerable we, as climbers are. When one of us gets injured or dies, many of us feel the pain, just not as acutely as the victim, family, friends, or witnesses.

Knowing what happened gives us closure, among other things, and allows us to move on.

Teasing us with bits of information is insensitive. If you know something, please tell it.

Wishing Mike a speedy recovery.


blondgecko
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Apr 22, 2010, 9:20 PM
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This thread is degenerating fast. I'm locking it for now. If someone close to the injured party wishes to make a report at a later date, they can PM a mod to unlock it, or start a new thread.


blondgecko
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Apr 25, 2010, 12:25 AM
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Sad news - the saddest. Mike Tucker passed away today from his injuries.

If you knew him, please join in the memorial thread here.


Forums : Climbing Information : Accident and Incident Analysis

 


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