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stevematthys
Dec 16, 2002, 12:02 AM
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What was the first trad route you ever did and what gear did you have with you?
Mine was the day Sparky and I climbed Calypso, in Eldorado Canyon. We climbed all three pitches with only one set of stoppers, one set of hexes, a couple slings, and a guide book. View Picture
[ This Message was edited by: stevematthys on 2002-12-15 16:03 ]
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repete
Dec 16, 2002, 1:23 AM
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Mine was Thias 5.5 at seneca rocks. well atleast thats what i was trying to climb but i got off route onto thias direst 5.7 and almost took a whiper just below the plesent overhangs roof. that was scary $#!& cuz it was also my partner's first trad route. we were in way over our heads, i was 16 at the time.
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fachri220
Dec 16, 2002, 2:00 AM
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I climbed it in 1990, my first trad route was only a 12m-height subvertical crack in Ciampea, Indonesia, with only 1 set of stoppers.
I don't think it can be classified as 'a route'.
But what makes my 1st trad route special for me is because it was my first climbing.
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brutusofwyde
Dec 16, 2002, 2:31 AM
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My first trad route was "Underpass" on Intersection Rock in Josh. Equipment included 120 feet of 9/16" Goldline rope. I protected the crux of the first pitch with a 1.5" angle piton.
Brutus of Wyde
Old Climbers' Home
Oakland, California
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dlintz
Dec 16, 2002, 2:31 AM
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My first trad route was Wind Ridge in Eldo about a month ago. We did the first 2 pitches and used only 1 large nut, the rest was cams.
My first trad lead was later that day on the North Face of the Matron. Good stuff.
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flamer
Dec 16, 2002, 2:49 AM
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The 3rd Flat Iron! I talked some guy at my dorm(he had a harness) into going "climbing" with me! I had a set of nuts, hex's, and tricams. 4 runners 6QD's. We got to the base at like 2PM. got back to the car at 11PM! No headlamps- a wicked lightning storm, and a pissed off girlfriend when I got home! That guy gave me his harness and Quite climbing...I went back a couple years later and went cartocar in 60:46! Still one of my favorites!
josh
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agentoffortune
Dec 16, 2002, 3:24 AM
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My first was at Sunset Park in Chattanooga. I have no idea what it is called nor do I know what it was rated but if I had to rate it, I would say it was a 5.5 or 5.6. I brought a set of nuts, a few tricams, and about a half dozen cams ranging from .75 to 4.
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neph
Dec 16, 2002, 3:47 AM
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I think my first trad lead was the East Slab on the Dome in Boulder Canyon.
Actually, I think that was the route I did the first time I climbed outdoors, and probably the route that I have climbed the most times.
My second trad lead was some sandbagged ("yeah, its like a 6 or something.. you can do it..") 5.7 offwidth that scared the pi$$ out of me..
lots of fun..
-Nate
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farmerc
Dec 16, 2002, 3:48 AM
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My first lead was Witches brew at Chickies Rock in Columbia, PA. Its a decent 5.3 (seems like an oxymoron...) that can be done in one or two pitches(w/ a 60m rope) i did it in one to avoid setting up an anchor midway
~Chris
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kalcario
Dec 16, 2002, 4:00 AM
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Route 1: Bolt ladder at Stony Point 1975
Route 2: Harry Daley, 2 pitch 5.8 Glacier Point 1976
Route 3:Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome 1976
I have always wondered if this is some sort of record...
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blindslap
Dec 16, 2002, 4:02 AM
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my first trad lead was a dihdreal (sp?) in the dead snag area in big cottonwood canyon. It was a 5.6 and i led it with just two and a half sets of stoppers. Set up all the anchors and led everything with just nuts. it was pretty runout but i was comfartable with the climbing. On the second pitch i ran out of biners and quickdraws so the anchor took a little imagination.
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briang
Dec 16, 2002, 3:36 PM
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my first lead was the second pitch of bedtime for bonzo(5.6) at the red river gorge sometime this past summer. though the pitch was relatively short it was definitely intensified when it started raining. but dont worry, me being the hardass i am pulled through it. thinking back, i think i placed 4 or 5 pieces, nuts and cams, but was carrying just about the entire rack of my partners. man i looked cool
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rrrADAM
Dec 16, 2002, 3:49 PM
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First Trad climb followed was Open Book 5.9 at Tahquitz, Ca.
First Trad climb led was Red Cabbage 5.9 at The Gunks. Thought since I climbed solid .10c Sport at the time, I would warm up on a 5.9... Bad choice !!! I was in fear of my life, and barely pulled it off. Thank God it was only a 30' climb, as this allowed me to fumble my way up and get a very "out of control onsight". I quickly decided that .6's were what I should start out at to get proficient and setting pro.
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vegastradguy
Dec 16, 2002, 4:09 PM
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my first trad follow was Froglands @ Red Rocks. Nice little 5.8ish climb.
my first trad lead was 6 of 9 pitches of Crimson Chrysalis, all of which were either 5.7 or 5.8. I was carrying both mine and my partners rack, which I believe was 19 cams (double set of BD .5-3, some metoulius, and a small Alien) and 2 sets of stoppers.
ahhh, memories.
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climblouisiana
Dec 16, 2002, 5:11 PM
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First one I lead was R-1 at Rupley towers on Mt. Lemmon.
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veilneb
Dec 16, 2002, 5:17 PM
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Ahh, the first.
Mine was pitch 3 of High Exposure (5.6+) at the Gunks.
All I can say is scary (for a first lead). My partner and I had a problem with communication. Apparently he didn't realize I had never led trad before. Got to the top though. Fantastic climb!
V
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mreardon
Dec 16, 2002, 7:55 PM
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"Whodunnit" (5.9). I was brought to this 10 pitch classic at Tahquitz after I had been climbing for 3 weeks. My partner at the time tbought it would be a kick to scare the hell out of me when he heard I was scared of heights. So there I was, oversized used Fires on my feet, swami wrapped around my waist, bright pink zebra striped tights glowing in the morning mist (hey, it was the 80s!). 4 pitches later I ended up leading a couple pitchs. I'm pretty sure death was in the works if I blew it, but that's the joy of being a kid!
edit: You're right Adam, it's 7 with a 150 foot rope, but listed in the old guides as 10 which is how we did it. Remember, 'twas a day of swami's and I was climbing for the first time!
[ This Message was edited by: mreardon on 2002-12-17 09:25 ]
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rrrADAM
Dec 16, 2002, 8:21 PM
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10 pitches Mike ??? How long was your rope my brutha ???
It can be done in 5, but most people do 7 for the belay ledges.
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holmeslovesguinness
Dec 16, 2002, 9:12 PM
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Surrealistic Pillar (5.7, 2 pitches) at Lovers Leap, 1994. Also did several other climbs there (Corrugation Corner, 5.7, Haystack Crack, 5.8, followed first pitch of The Line, 5.9). Great place to climb.
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alpinelynx
Dec 16, 2002, 9:35 PM
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First lead was Cut Corner at Potter's Rock (5.6, 1 pitch) off Highway 108. used camalots .75 to 3. Totally sweet and perfect for my first lead.
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pbcowboy77
Dec 17, 2002, 7:01 AM
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My first follow was Magic Dragon at The Needles. This was my first multipitch climb (book said 12 pitches) and it was my first time simulclimbing (we did it in 6 I think) thanks Paul.
My first lead was Finger Trip at Tahquitz, I lead all 4 pitches and had one set of nuts and 3 aillens (yellow, red, orange) and 4 camalots ( 1, 2, 3, 3.5).
-Zac
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mreardon
Dec 17, 2002, 5:26 PM
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Right on PB! Helluva hike for your first climb, and a total classic. Most people head out to "white punks on dope" when in the Needles. You did it right!
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wildtrail
Dec 17, 2002, 5:43 PM
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Some crappy little 5.3 or 5.4 at Devil's Lake.
First multi pitch: Durrance Route, Devil's Tower.
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calpolyclimber
Dec 24, 2002, 11:19 PM
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I led "60 Seconds over Soledad". It's a 5.6 on the Cracked Rock of Bishops Peak. I top roped it so many times that I had it dialed before I placed gear. It made me feel alot more comfortable. I had a set of ABC Huevos, a set of Trango Nutz, a set of Metolius Curved Hex's, and a set of Rock Empire Robots (and their TCU's). The guy I was with said I might as well take it all just so I would get used to the weight of a full rack. I ended up placing mostly nuts and hex's, with only 1-2 cam's.
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jen_c
Dec 25, 2002, 1:59 AM
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My first trad route was "Little Corner" at Shortoff Mtn in North Carolina - a nice 5.6, 4-pitch climb. Gear: Full set of nuts, tricams, alien cams, & a few hexes. Pretty much used the nuts and that was about it though.
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rockrat17
Jan 4, 2003, 9:30 PM
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My first trad was @ Pickledish, it was 5.6. My rack consisted of cams, sizes 1-3 and a few nuts. It was only one pitch, but it was pretty kool.
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falke
Jan 4, 2003, 9:43 PM
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Lost Bandana Wall, Little Granite Moutain, Arizona, I think it was 5.7.
I had a set of nuts, 3 small size cams, several slings. It was short, and my placements were sketchy at best. But I put in enough to make my belayer hate the pace
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dino
Jan 5, 2003, 11:52 PM
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3rd Flatiron: All day; 3-man rope of beginners; missed the east bench (add two pitches) 90 degrees; no water; no clue; couldn't wait to do it again...
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camhead
Jan 6, 2003, 12:23 AM
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30 Seconds Over Potash, at Wall Street, Moab, 5.8
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neph
Jan 6, 2003, 12:51 AM
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hehe dino
You haven't really climbed in Boulder till you're gotten heat stroke climbing one of the Flatirons (or had to hike down in the dark with no headlamps)...
-Nate
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shortfatoldguy
Jan 6, 2003, 1:18 AM
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Super Slab, Smith Rock, 3 pitches, 5.6. Led it in my approach shoes to try and feel less like the gumby that I was/am.
Oh, gear. Mainly stoppers and hexes, a few cams. Was being (re)trained by old-schoolers.
[ This Message was edited by: shortfatoldguy on 2003-01-06 06:28 ]
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easysteve
Jan 6, 2003, 1:55 AM
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Detroit Oregon brittle falling rocks, and not a good place to climb. I had 3 stoppers, and 7 wild country rocks, and a bunch of quickdraws to complete the set. I suppose you could say the climb was two pitches, but my friend tailed the rope up and easy part. Not sure of the rating.
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gravical
Jan 13, 2003, 11:59 AM
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i think all of you are crazy, but it probably comes with the climbing package - I do want to add that you have made me feel so much better by knowing I am not the only guy that felt like being in over my head on a first trad route!
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womble
Jan 14, 2003, 5:51 PM
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This random but easy looking route in Taiwan
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=10063
On a friend's gear. Used mainly medium nuts and small hexes. Because the route was less-than-vertical and the rock quality incredibly good, it wasn't scary at all.
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ricardol
Jan 14, 2003, 6:44 PM
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I'm hoping my 1st trad lead will be in next weekend .. I'm hoping to lead Swallows crack at pinnacles (5.6) with a set of stoppers, microcams, and power cams.
-- ricardo
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dingus
Jan 14, 2003, 6:46 PM
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Original Route, Underground City. Um, 1973. It was quite difficult in tennis shoes.
DMT
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mtnjohn
Jan 14, 2003, 6:58 PM
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My first trad lead (which was my first lead)
was South Crack in Tuolome.
All I had were hexes & stoppers & Fire's
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iamthewallress
Jan 14, 2003, 6:58 PM
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"5.0 Descent Gully" in J Tree with my 'rack' (a set of nuts) and a few borrowed cams.
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elvislegs
Jan 14, 2003, 7:10 PM
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Something called "Stems and Jammies" 5.8 at the black cliffs in Boise. Wasn't bad at all cause I had followed a bunch.
Set of BD nuts and a couple of hexes.
I still have people follow me on this route when they want to learn trad placement. A great starter.
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onbelay_osu
Jan 16, 2003, 6:09 AM
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My first Trad was on a pitch down here in Oklahoma called mild and wild... this is a 5.6 pitch about 40ft high. Great hand crack at the bottom which opens into off-width near the top out... My gear DB stoppers sizes 4,5,5,6,7,8,9,10. BD Hex size 10 Metilous nut size 9 2 DMM wallnuts 9,10 two Trango flex cams 9 and 10 and a white Lowecamp Tri-cam... this rack worked great at the bottom, but near the top out i was wanting a bigger placement...my cam placement would have blown had i have fallen...If you are ever in the witchitas here in okie land and are looking for some fun short, no more than 60 foot climbs, trad roughts i recomend upper mount scott!
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betterthinkfast
Jan 16, 2003, 7:20 AM
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suicide
serpentine
couple of cams
set of stoppers
nice route. crux was bolted so didn't have to worry about gear, just smearing on dime edges.
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beyond_gravity
Jan 20, 2003, 11:43 PM
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some 5.4 at wasootch slabs. used my uncles hexs and nuts back from the 70's.
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kman
Jan 21, 2003, 12:08 AM
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It was a short 5.9 crack. I was friggin gripped when I got near the top only to find the last few moves were soaked with water. I went back much later and did it again wondering wtf was I thinking doing that for my first trad climb.
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roc-ray
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Jan 21, 2003, 12:37 AM
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Don't worry and Be happy at Skaha.Both were 5.6 with good pro and I must have used every piece of gear on the rack.I still wimp out and sow up some trad lines.
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johnnyontherocks
Jan 22, 2003, 7:45 AM
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Cryptic Chimmney at the Delaware Water Gap (5.5 I think) I brought everything and the kitchen sink..
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cologman
Jan 22, 2003, 4:31 PM
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Being mostly naive about Alpine climbing and my ability at the time, early 70's. I had asked the shop owner of a shop on West Colfax in Denver if he could rec. a good first alpine rte on a large face of moderate difficulty. He said do the large crescent shaped chimney on Halletts Peak. So off we went. What is now known as the Englishman's Route, appeared to us as the the rte in question. Up we went, with Iron mongery of the first degree. Although only in the 5.8 realm route finding on that large face proved challenging. I took my first lead whipper on a runout face high on the climb when wet rock got the best of me. Darkness and fatigue caught up to us at the top of the face. Because we were unfamiliar with the descent and tired we chose to spend the night amongst the boulders on top. Not a good night but a character builder. On the way out the next day we met Walter Fricke the then ranger at Bear Lake who was interested in what we had done. He was at that time working on his guide book to RMNP.
to his knowledge we had done the 2nd. ascent of the rte and he was very interested in our beta. To this day that climb looms large in my memory for providing the intangible thrills that have kept me climbing over the years.
[ This Message was edited by: cologman on 2003-01-22 08:35 ]
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tanner
Jan 23, 2003, 5:20 PM
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5.7 used a rack of nuts as pro. It was fun but the top 30ft was off-with had and no pro. guess I soloed it. My next trad climb was a nice wel protected corner crack at 5.7
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yosemite
Jan 23, 2003, 5:26 PM
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Fingertip Traverse at Tahquitz on goldline rope, with pitons, in Lowa mountaineering boots. Circa 1968.
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froggy
Jan 23, 2003, 5:29 PM
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My first trad lead was Upper Right Ski Track in J-Tree. Don't really remember what I used for pro... but I remember it being mostly cams (aliens/bd). Pretty good exposure - scared me good! Did not know that a 5.3 could be so hard!
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ouflyboy9
Jan 23, 2003, 5:34 PM
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My first trad lead was bedtime for bonzo in Red River Gorge.....I was carrying eveything I could..I don't remember how much gear I placed but it was probably too much.
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jiadar
Jan 23, 2003, 5:37 PM
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Thin Face, a 5.5 30 foot climb at Rocktown. After getting it dialed on TR, I lead it placing 3 cams, a red tricam, an alien, and slung a horn.
My first onsight lead was Kids Corner at lost wall. An overrated 5.6. I used an alien, two cams, and three nuts. It felt like a 5.8 on the sharp end! Because it was slabby, I'm now engrained with the "Leader must not fall" philophosy...
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ouflyboy9
Jan 23, 2003, 5:37 PM
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My first trad lead was bedtime for bonzo in Red River Gorge.....I was carrying eveything I could..I don't remember how much gear I placed but it was probably too much.
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loren
Jan 24, 2003, 6:53 PM
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Father and Son. A 5.7 I think at the RRG. I placed lots of nuts and maybe a cam or two. I don't remember the name of the crag but it's the same place as Casual Veiwing.
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jamison
Jan 24, 2003, 7:05 PM
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Pooh Corner?? 5.6 in the Sam's Throne area, Arkansas. Probably 5 or 6 years ago.
Looking back I remember it always seeming harder than a 5.6. I had just started, so who knows. But it doesn't matter. It scared the poop out of me.
rack: nuts, tricams, and probably a few cams. Can't 'member what I used.
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tkambitsch
Jan 24, 2003, 9:03 PM
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My first trad lead was Motha (5.6) at Roadside crag in the Red River Gorge. Although only about 50-60 feet I probably sewed it up with 12 pieces of gear, including my recently pruchased tr-cams.
There is no stronger image that sticks in my mind from my years of climbing. I'm about half way up that first climb looking down between my feet and seeing that line of runners between me and George. That got me hooked on trad climbing.
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ricardol
Jan 27, 2003, 6:36 AM
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This weekend saw a bunch of firsts for me..
1st trad lead: Swallows Crack at Pinnacles (5.6)
1st fixed piece: fixed a brand spanking new #12 BD stopper on portent at pinnacles (5.6)
1st multipitch (sort of) .. swung leads on portent and on regular route (monolith at pinnacles) both 5.6
also led ordeal at pinnacles (5.8 )
Then i somehow got over my head and led 2 5.9 climbs at consummes river gorge.. what was i thinking -- totally sketched -- throwing cams into any place i could find! ..
1st fall on lead on a 5.9 finger to fist crack at consummes river gorge (pro was at knees when i fell no biggie -- about 5'). Fell on a #6 BD stopper 3x, and it held beautifully. I finally gave up and aided off a yellow cam placement!
-- ricardo
[ This Message was edited by: ricardol on 2003-01-26 22:36 ]
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t-dog
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Jan 30, 2003, 4:33 AM
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first lead was Lazy Day 5.7 in J-Tree, fortunately it was one of the easier rated 5.7 climbs at J-tree.
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phugganut
Jan 30, 2003, 5:16 AM
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My first climb ever was trad. About 9 years ago I was in Boulder, CO visiting family, and just on a whim I let someone take me climbing. We did Bastille Crack @ Eldorado Canyon, and I saw the light...
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alpinerocket
Jan 30, 2003, 5:52 AM
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My first lead was a Trad lead up a 5.7 crack that had bomber nut placements. All I used was a set of nuts and I think a tri-cam or 2. It is in Ogden Cny Utah, probebly never heard of it. Anyway I still take people who are learning about pro and leading to it.
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marks
Feb 1, 2003, 10:16 AM
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my first route was roscoes wall in the peak district h.v.s 5b or 5.10a i used a nut 7 in a crack at half height.its still one of my fav routes.
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sneville
Feb 3, 2003, 8:14 PM
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my first trad climb was Turkey Chute(5.6) at Mission Gorge. It was a short fun crack climb. I had some BD cams and a set of nuts.
[ This Message was edited by: sneville on 2003-02-03 12:16 ]
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slab-dyno
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Feb 16, 2003, 11:51 PM
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Swan Slab Gulley in Yosemite. EASY 5.6.
Jimmy
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pywiak
Feb 17, 2003, 1:04 AM
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My first trad lead was "West Chimney", 5.6, on Intersection Rock, Hidden Valley, Joshua Tree National Monument, on December 27, 1974. I got 10' of 1" webbing for a swami, a locking carabiner, and three or four hex stock chocks (all the same size) for Christmas that year. One of those chocks was key to protecting this vile 5.6 slot. It was all uphill from there...trying to catch up with beeveebee.
[ This Message was edited by: pywiak on 2003-02-16 17:05 ]
[ This Message was edited by: pywiak on 2003-02-16 17:08 ]
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beckerw
Feb 17, 2003, 4:40 AM
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white whale at lumpy.
cams and nuts
there are not many better belay stations.
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wheels5150
Aug 17, 2005, 5:57 PM
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First trad - Joshua Tree - part of a route at Lost Horse (addiction starts here) - 01/05
First Lead - Yosemite - Church Bowl lieback - carried 5x more pro than I needed (argh) - 07/05
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livinonasandbar
Aug 17, 2005, 6:47 PM
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The first multi-pitch trad route I lead was the 1st Flatiron near Boulder. Took a full rack... cams, nuts, slings, cordelettes, etc., etc... My friend, who was following each pitch, and I were standing at my carefully constructed, bomb-proof anchor about 2/3 the way up when this guy came "hiking" up past us with only shoes and a chalk bag. "Great day for climbing, isn't it?" he pleasantly asked as he went by us and continued on to the top. We could only laugh...
Still, the Flatiron was a great "first lead". (The slab at the bottom is pretty run out between those two I-bolts!)
Peace.
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mcfoley
Aug 17, 2005, 7:40 PM
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1st trad route was at Ortega falls- SoCal a no-name .9...TR'd it quite a bit then got the nerve to lead it...
1st Trad onsight was Toe Jam 5.7 at J-tree. The top felt a little runout at the time. Found out later that the big red mark on the slab was blood from a head injury...glad I fount that out after I led it!!!
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cadaverchris
Aug 17, 2005, 8:05 PM
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route: Thin Air 5.6 Cathedral Ledge NH
gear: nuts, hexes, tri-cams, not enough slings/biners
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burundanga
Aug 17, 2005, 8:57 PM
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My first trad lead was at Dens Rocks in Andover, MA. Inside of a chimney there is a , and all i had was a set of BD hexes, most of the placements zyperd out of the wall, pretty fun though, alothough a bit sketched out.
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hangerlessbolt
Aug 17, 2005, 9:13 PM
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1ST trad route I followed was “Overhang Bypass” (5.7) – Intersection Rock – Joshua Tree
1st trad route I led was “The Reverend” (5.8) – Billboard Buttress – Indian Cove
Woody Stark was the gent who set me up on it. He led it and I followed. We rapped off and walked back around to the start of the route. Since I had cleaned, I still had all of the pieces he used on me. He said, “Looks like you’re racked up. Go ahead and tie in.”
I was a little (read: a lot!) nervous. I hadn’t anticipated leading anytime soon…and the “rack” was comprised of a couple of nuts, a couple of hexes, and a few tripled draws.
I remember getting about halfway up…and getting the rope trapped between my foot and the rock…I couldn’t seem to unjam my foot. Having exactly ZERO crack climbing experience to speak of…I was stuck!
I managed to squirm my way out of my predicament, but was so sketched I clung to the rock for dear life…taking forever to make any progress.
What I lacked in style I more than made up for in scrapes and scratches.
I spent the better part of the following year acting as rope gun for our little band of three amigos. (Me, toobigtoclimb [aka: Brian], and ffaallliinngg [aka: Dr. Bob])
Taking down some of the more notoriously sandbagged routes, such as:
Upper Right Ski Track…The Bong…Mike’s Books…Fote Hog…The Mikado….(5.3, 5.4, 5.6, 5.6, 5.6 respectively)
*laughing*
It took over a year for me to lead another 5.8< trad route. I took my time and got tons of practice on routes well below my onsight limit…most importantly…we had a ton of fun doing it.
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hairyapeman
Aug 17, 2005, 9:22 PM
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First trad route was Commitment at yosemite falls. Commitment is a 5.9 3 pitch trad route to the left (five open books) of Yosemite falls. I used: 3-#.5, 2-#.75, 3-#1, 2-#2, 1-#3 BD C4's, A set of DMM Wallnuts, 48", and 2 24" slings. And of course locking and wiregate biners. It was a kick in the pants to lead!
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mojavedesertrat
Aug 21, 2005, 5:22 AM
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MY first trad follow was years ago and I have no idea what is was.
my first trad LEADs were two 5.4's and a 5.5. in the Romper Room area at Red Rocks, back in March.
first J-Tree lead [the only real rock climbing is at Joshua Tree ;)] was a 5.5 on Atlantis wall that had some weird name about cows I think.
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euthanasia
Aug 23, 2005, 8:17 PM
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Pleasing to the Touch 5.6 The route is only about 50ft tall and I wouldn't be surprised if I placed 20 pieces.
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climbinginchico
Aug 23, 2005, 8:24 PM
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First trad follow: Little Sheba 10a.
First trad lead: Puppy Crack 5.6. Nice short and easy.
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hiram
Aug 23, 2005, 8:37 PM
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Just last weekend I started trad climbing with
"American Crack" at the Red...........
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gamehendge
Aug 23, 2005, 8:45 PM
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Flower of Higher Rank. Suicide Rock 5.9. I was never more scared and thrilled @ the same time in my whole entire life. Beautiful line.
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cyanamid
Aug 23, 2005, 8:58 PM
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I'd followed a few routes in Little Cottonwood Canyon, and placed gear on the ground, but my first lead on gear was Cat in the Hat, 5.6 (maybe 5.7 I dunno), in Red Rocks.
I lead the 2nd and 4th pitch. I remember thinking "This doesnt feel like granite at all....."
If I recall correctly. I had plenty of gear (climbing on my cousins rack) TCU's, Wallnuts, and a bunch of Camalots. I also recall spending about twenty minutes (or what felt like) on each of my placements. Final memory was getting the rope stuck after the first rap.
- Andrew
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kmsmoguls
Aug 26, 2005, 2:00 PM
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My first trad lead was last weekend at Crow Hill MA. I did Boardwalk (5.5) with a set of stoppers mostly smaller sizes and a few BD cams. Man was it cool.
Erik
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chromwells_head
Aug 26, 2005, 3:38 PM
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My first trad follow was Anti Jello Crack at dome rock (5.7) my first lead was the same day on tree route (5.6) with nothng but passive pro :razz:
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bigeyedfish81
Aug 26, 2005, 3:45 PM
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First trad lead a couple of weeks ago. Bloody Nose (5.6), Draper's Bluff (So Ill)
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realdeal39
Aug 26, 2005, 3:48 PM
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My first lead was the 5.8 Church Bowl Lieback in Yosemite. I top roped the route in about 2 minutes so I figured leading would be no problem. I never realized the pshycological factor of leading a climb trad before that. I led it on two sets of stoppers, which in hindsight is probably more than I actually needed. I would put in a piece, set it then look at it for three or 4 minutes wondering if it would really hold me if I fell. Then I would climb 2 or 3 feet above it, look down at it, then downclimb and give the piece a few yanks to make sure it wasn't going anywhere. Two pieces popped out on me that day. The first was a really bad placement, the other was when I was pulling the rope up through them (Don't ask me why I did that.) although I think it would have held a downward pull. When I make it back to the valley again I'd like to try it again now that I have cams.
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andrewj
Aug 28, 2005, 5:35 PM
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my first trad lead was this summer at Sams Throne on Poison Ivy (5.7) I placed about 3 cams and 2 cowbells, got a little high for my belayers liking before placing the first pro, but it was easy climbing. The hardest part of that whole climb was figuring out how to get my second secured to the damn anchors up top so he could belay the 3rd and 4th members of our party up. It was made more of a mess by the fact that we were being very overly cautious with redundency and such.
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braaaaaaaadley
Aug 28, 2005, 5:45 PM
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First pitch of Conn's West (5.5) at seneca. The last little bit right before a pine tree was my first experience with my arch enemy: the crack. That made for an interesting day... but the climb itself was pretty easy. All I had was 6 cams, some cowbells and a set of nuts. I can't wait to go back to seneca!!!
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okcdirtbag
Aug 28, 2005, 6:06 PM
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My first trad route was Crazy Alice, in the narrows, whichitas oklahoma. Only had nuts, hexes, and forged friends. Was about 10 ft from topping out and popped off ripped out 2 nuts and a hex last piece held which was a forged friend. My belayer took a running start backwards to take up slack ended up about 1ft from the deck and a HUGE rope burn running from lower thigh to upper calf. The rop got caught around my leg as i fell.. needless to say it shook me up a bit and took me awhile before i was able to get my lead head back.. but hell yea what an experience for your first lead!
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nicklikesfire
Aug 28, 2005, 6:12 PM
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Registered: Jan 9, 2004
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My first lead was at ragged mountain in CT. a 5.7 or 5.8 that I blew about 10 feet from the top. it was awesome.
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lucas_timmer
Aug 28, 2005, 6:32 PM
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My first trad lead was kiddy's crawl at Cudden Point, England I used a size 1.5 WC offset friend and some medium sized DMM Wallnuts.I don't really count it as a real route because it was just 7m long.But still, it was my first trad lead.....
-LT
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flipnfall
Aug 28, 2005, 6:38 PM
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Registered: May 18, 2004
Posts: 717
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"Rose Bush"
Taylor's Falls, MN
GT
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dancesonrocks
Aug 28, 2005, 7:02 PM
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First pitch (5.7) of After Six, Manure Pile Buttress in Yosemite.
Hot day, slick rock, but really fun. I was practicing with 2 of my gal pals and we took turns leading that pitch. We only had nuts and I think one or two Friends to use (this was years ago).
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harmonydoc
Aug 28, 2005, 8:43 PM
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Nice website, rockgrrl/dancesonrocks!
My first trad lead: last weekend, first and third pitches of Knapsack at Lover's Leap.
My second and third trad leads: yesterday, the second pitch of Deception, then the second pitch of Harvey's Wallbangers Center at Lover's Leap (both 5.6). Loved it! Carried tons of gear, enough to way overprotect if I wanted to. Had an embarrasing moment on top of the second pitch of Deception when I did a face traverse right and found out the piece I placed just before the traverse was not multidirectional (it popped). Oops, guess I've learned that lesson now. Think I'll stick to 5.6 leads for a while, seems to be just about right, interesting but well enough below my limit that I don't get scared and I can concentrate on the placements and keep the likelihood of actually falling on them minimal.
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dancesonrocks
Aug 28, 2005, 8:50 PM
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In reply to: Nice website, rockgrrl/dancesonrocks!
Hey thanks! And thanks for posting on the forums :) I gotta update the site with some pictures from a Tuolemne trip I just got back from.
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