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jh_angel
Jul 18, 2010, 1:54 AM
Post #51 of 55
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Registered: Oct 12, 2004
Posts: 232
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markmyhsieh wrote: My 2 cents - the DDS soles do work especially well on outdoor slab and outdoor steep. On vertical climbs its rarely ever in contact with the rock. Indoor holds are typically not textured enough to utilize the DDS level change.
Very interesting that you say this, since I've found the opposite in my experience. The DDS was great on vert, but I always find myself in my flashes/maniacs/flash laces on slab and solutions/speedsters in the steeps.
I think the main problem I have with them is that the denser, horse shoe shaped, part of the sole doesn't smear the way I'd like, and the inside edge of it almost never gets used to hook onto something, so it's a loose-loose. I'd personally like to see the Demons with a regular sole on them (or my solutions with a mad rock heel). Couldn't be happier with my fleet of flat bottomed Mad Rocks.
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j_ung
Jul 18, 2010, 3:49 PM
Post #52 of 55
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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healyje wrote: markmyhsieh wrote: My 2 cents - the DDS soles do work especially well on outdoor slab and outdoor steep. On vertical climbs its rarely ever in contact with the rock. Indoor holds are typically not textured enough to utilize the DDS level change. Nothing compares to this class of shoes for all-day comfort on moderate terrain. I was originally turned on to the Ascents by Chris McNamara of Supertopo.com who was using them as his shoe of choice for doing NIAD on El Cap once each month for a year. Again, no other shoe is as good for comfort and yardage as shoes of this design. The Ascent was unfortunately not terribly durable whereas the Sportiva Ventor was. The Frenzy I never felt good about the fit so can't comment. The overall concept of this class of shoes was unfortunately watered-down so badly in the V-Mile as to make it worthless. The loss of this class of shoe in my opinion is lamentable. The only alternative at the moment is the Sportiva Ganda - very expensive and has a worthless heel. [image]http://www.sportiva.com/images/products/250_Gandalf_855.jpg[/image]
I climbed exclusively in first-generation Ascents for around a year and and a half, including past a resole, and never had a single complaint about durability or anything else. I have no idea how many days on rock that was, but surely, more than 100 per year including gym time, which is notoriously rough on shoes.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Jul 18, 2010, 3:49 PM)
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jiko
Sep 21, 2010, 8:53 PM
Post #53 of 55
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Registered: Sep 21, 2010
Posts: 1
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hi,
just wanted to know how the rubber is for the toe-hook for 2011 model.
i am currently wearing demon 2010, which i really love, apart from the fact that toe hook is not as great.
looking at the online catalogue, 2011 demon looks good around toe area. have you had chance to tesy the 2011 models yet, if so, how are the demons toe-hook?
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sidepull
Sep 22, 2010, 1:59 PM
Post #54 of 55
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
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roy_hinkley_jr wrote: Everyone in the climbing industry knows about Joe and his decades of shading dealings. Nothing new here. markmyhsieh wrote: 4) Innovative, quality, and value. FAIL. Try performance, durability, comfort. Nail those three and your three fall into line automatically. Most innovation in rock shoes in the past decade has come from the marketing department. Quality means little if you have to resole in a month. Value is another name for shortcuts.
FAIL FAIL - how often is comfort innovative? Or durability? Or even performance? More often than not it means adding more glue, padding, leather, etc., to an existing product. Madrock has, at least after some of their first shoe* models came out, been very innovative with a good quality/value ratio that has only improved over time. Some of their new models are tough to beat and some of their innovations (ribbed heels, ribbed toe hooks) have subsequently been copied by La Sportiva and Five Ten. I'd argue if you're willing to innovate, then you are willing to change and that willingness to change will lead to the refinements that produce quality and comfort whereas starting with quality and comfort will lead to moon boots.
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areyoumydude
Sep 22, 2010, 10:39 PM
Post #55 of 55
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Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 1971
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roy_hinkley_jr wrote: Everyone in the climbing industry knows about Joe and his decades of shading dealings. Nothing new here.
You are truly a coward and a liar.
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