something interesting leads into the dangler doesn't it? Have to admit, despite the whole Gunks cliche photo op thing, i wouldn't mind having that picture...

tall balding white guy here, probably hiding said baldness with a red sox hat.

something interesting leads into the dangler doesn't it? Have to admit, despite the whole Gunks cliche photo op thing, i wouldn't mind having that picture...

Double Crack is another great .8, right next to CCK technically a .7, but still a quality climb.

I have Ants Line, bonnies, and CCK on my "todo" list. In fact i've read up on all these, and i wish i lived a little bit closer, so i could make it up more often. I do want to do directissima, but i'm kind of saving it for when my regular climbing partner gets the balls to lead, then he could do the fun part of High E. Like you said, with so many great climbs, i should be okay saving that one for a bit.

Those are all GREAT, CLASSIC climbs, but here is a list of 7's, 8's and 9's that are also good, but are a little more obscure or a further walk away, if you want to avoid the crowds.


Overhanging Layback 5.7
Silhouette 5.7
Te Dum 5.7
Main Line 5.8
Eastertime Too 5.8
Bold-Ville 5.8
Grand Central 5.9 (not so obscure, but it wasn't mentioned and is one of my favorite 9's)
CCK Direct 5.9 (also not obscure, but is just as classic as the original)
Inverted Layback 5.9 (Eat your Wheaties for this one)
Le Teton 5.9+

If you are looking to do any 10's, let me know. I have done quite a few of them, and IMO that is when the GREAT climbing starts at the Gunks.

Josh

I'm still a little iffy/intimidated by 10's. On bolts no problem, but i haven't been leading on gear for that long, a little over a year, and i don't wanna get in over my head.

I figure there's enough great moderates there to get really comfortable with my placements before pushing it up a notch. If you know of any 10's with super solid gear the whole way i may give it a go, but overall it's just a little bit outside my comfort zone, for now. Hopefully next year i'll have the mileage in where i feel confident enough to lead harder routes.

That being said, i still may do the dangler next weekend...

Edited to fix grammar

If you can do the Dangler, I see no reason not to at least start thinking about 10's

Sucks dont go. Go to the gym youll like it Dudes with no shirts on. Your scene there yup

I get that, and i've definitely thought about them, but i still wanna see how a .9 or two goes first. When i say i've been leading on gear for around a year that doesn't mean every weekend during that time, or even once a month for that matter. I live in central pa, there's not exactly an abundanec of roped climbing opportunities around here, and the trad areas i do have within an hour don't offer much harder than 5.7, so if im a little slow and tenuous it's because i'm still building confidence in what i'm doing up there.

Word. I guess "way off the ground for the east coast" would be a more accurate description.

I'll want a full update on how you got spanked your trip went .

It went fantastic. First, i must've got lucky because the crowds were minimal. I think the uberfall may have been crowded but i passed that at 6:30a.m. and didn't see it again until 6:30p.m. Did high e again first, because i had some friends with me who never climbed outside on rope. That pretty much tuckered them out, so when we got down they went bouldering, which was sweet because it freed up the rest of my day.

I got to lead Ants Line and Bonnies Roof, neither of which i found too incredibly hard, although i have to say Bonnie's was awesome, thoroughly enjoyed that climb, definitely one of my favorites so far. And then i followed Drunkards Delight to end the day. Great day. Can't wait to get back.