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wonderwoman
Oct 16, 2010, 3:54 PM
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This past weekend my husband & went our separate ways climbing. He took the rack & I took doubles of what we had for cams to supplement my partners rack.
It was really fun to climb with other people & push limits on unfamiliar gear. However, I now have severe gear envy (one of the people was a big wall climber who had LOTS of gear).
So I am considering building up a rack # 2 with other types of gear (starting with Master Cams & some Link Cams) so that in the end we can mix, match & go our separate climbing ways when needed.
It's a pity that my REI prodeal days are over. But I have Over the winter to plan out & fulfill my gear fetish!
So, how many of you have 2 racks? Or how do you split your gear when you don't climb together?
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 16, 2010, 3:58 PM
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Fine! Then keep your hands off MY Aliens!
p.s Link cams are for n00bs! 
Josh
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jt512
Oct 16, 2010, 4:07 PM
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wonderwoman wrote: It was really fun to climb with other people & push limits on unfamiliar gear.
Can't say I've ever found that fun.
Jay
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rightarmbad
Oct 16, 2010, 4:10 PM
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Don't get it.
Why would anyone marry a woman that didn't already have a rack?
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wonderwoman
Oct 16, 2010, 4:19 PM
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Funny! We got a ton of gear at my 'bridal shower'. Also, I was the one who worked at REI and bought most of our stuff. So, technically, he's lucky that I let him use MY rack.
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moose_droppings
Oct 16, 2010, 4:49 PM
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I've got three racks kept on different gear slings/chest harnesses and different ropes I use depending on my objective. A light rack for deep BC roped soloing climbing days. Then there's my standard rack, has most everything and then some that goes to most routes climbed around the area and can then be trimmed down to fit each route. My aiding rack that has everything including the kitchen sink.
I starting doing it this way years ago because I got tired of of making up a rack for different situations and finding that sometimes I didn't change over everything I needed, only to find out when I got somewhere what I was missing, or leaving to much gear in the car. I still find myself mixing and matching or leaving a few pieces when I know ahead of time where and what I'll be on all day. A bit of a work in progress but it's nice to have plenty of options.
You should definitely each have your own rack.
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notapplicable
Oct 16, 2010, 5:05 PM
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jt512 wrote: wonderwoman wrote: It was really fun to climb with other people & push limits on unfamiliar gear.Can't say I've ever found that fun. Jay
I love seeing people lead on my frankenrack for the first time. Especially the ones who only have one or two manufacturers on their rack and everything is color coded. Good times.
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welle
Oct 16, 2010, 5:39 PM
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I'm used to climbing on other people's racks - as I usually bring my double ropes to the climbs. I bring my Aliens and tricams though, as not everyone climbs with them. Having said that, I detest Mastercams!!! Even climbing on one of my partner's frankenracks (mostly booty gear) was way better than climbing with Mastercams.
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wonderwoman
Oct 16, 2010, 5:55 PM
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What did you dislike about mastercams? So far I only have the blue.
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giggly
Oct 16, 2010, 6:10 PM
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two to three sets of nuts DMM offsets are best as they work when others don't.
15-20 quickdraws light weight caribiners are best for bigwalling.
5-10 large locking caribiners
cams 3 sets in the smaller sizes and 2 in the ow sizes.
6 shoulder length slings and 6 double shoulder length.
a few hooks
4 aider ladders(yates are awsome)
daisy chans( carefull not to use them incorrectly)
fifihook
this should be enough gear to get you up almost anything.
Oh and a portaledge.
happy trails
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welle
Oct 16, 2010, 6:15 PM
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I think the blue one is ok, once they get bigger they are really annoying. The head (cam lobes) are way too heavy for the flex of the stem, IMO, so the cam flops like a silly putty. Also, the trigger is either too small or too short (too close to the cam lobes), and it takes quite some effort to clean. I think I have to just suck it up and learn to love them.
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jbro_135
Oct 16, 2010, 6:30 PM
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giggly wrote: *troll noises*
good one
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happiegrrrl
Oct 16, 2010, 7:13 PM
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If it is fairly rare that you climb separately, then buying a complete separate rack is is an extravagance. But....if you can afford it, that's your decision, and good for the economy!
But if you climb separately a lot - then of course you both need gear.
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jakedatc
Oct 16, 2010, 8:51 PM
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welle wrote: I think the blue one is ok, once they get bigger they are really annoying. The head (cam lobes) are way too heavy for the flex of the stem, IMO, so the cam flops like a silly putty. Also, the trigger is either too small or too short (too close to the cam lobes), and it takes quite some effort to clean. I think I have to just suck it up and learn to love them.
weird.. i have orange and red and think they are fine. after that i go to .75 C4 want to get a purple.
Link cams on the other hand.. blehh weight of 2 and can only use once
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kiwiprincess
Oct 16, 2010, 9:38 PM
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We have double set of wires and fingers to about.75 or 1 camalot.
It is usually fine to climb something with just that and Good cams for doubles with a partner.
It does Take a while to get used to a new partner and their rack and how they rack it, but you usually don't climb with someone totally new at your limit anyway, so a bit of faffing around isn't such a big deal.
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kiwiprincess
Oct 16, 2010, 9:47 PM
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Also we have 'Alpine draws" wires on 60cm slings and sport draws and we have lots of spare slings to pull apart the sport draws to make extendables.
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hafilax
Oct 16, 2010, 10:36 PM
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Our 3/4 racks combined to make a 1-1/2 rack. Doubles and even triples of a few pieces but definitely not enough to split. My GF doesn't really lead much anymore so it has never been an issue.
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wonderwoman
Oct 16, 2010, 10:56 PM
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jakedatc wrote: Link cams on the other hand.. blehh weight of 2 and can only use once
I was skeptical of them until I tried them out last weekend. They did not feel any heavier, the red one held my fall & good ol' greenie slid in like butter mid crux. I'm a believer!
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rightarmbad
Oct 17, 2010, 1:38 AM
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The only piece of gear I have ever pulled was a Linkcam.
The placement looked good, but you could see from the marks on the cam that it was sitting on the joins between links.
I sort of pushed them to the back of my rack and now I just think that they are a good universal belay cam.
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amyas
Oct 17, 2010, 2:09 AM
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I cant get my wife to climb at all. Since you seem keen can you either:
1- Convince her to buy a rack for herself (which I will steal so i can finally finish off doubling/tripling up some pieces).
2- Just leave that other dude and marry me? I've heard some good stuff about this polygamy thing, and I think I'm ready to give it a go.
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wonderwoman
Oct 17, 2010, 2:36 AM
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rightarmbad wrote: The only piece of gear I have ever pulled was a Linkcam. The placement looked good, but you could see from the marks on the cam that it was sitting on the joins between links. I sort of pushed them to the back of my rack and now I just think that they are a good universal belay cam.
That's interesting. Was it placed in a horizontal or a vertical crack? The one that caught my fall last weekend was in a gunks horizontal where I could clearly see the surface area of the cam making contact with the rock.
With all those moving parts & hinges, I can see where a bad placement could be problematic. The cam sort seems spiderlike in the way that it moves.
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 17, 2010, 3:49 AM
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amyas wrote: 2- Just leave that other dude and marry me? I've heard some good stuff about this polygamy thing, and I think I'm ready to give it a go.
Ha! Nice try Amy, but I'm the only one who gets to use her rack.
Josh
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rgold
Oct 17, 2010, 3:14 PM
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Just a personal opinion, but link cams in horizontals seems like a really bad idea in view of the various link cam failures. Add to the general riskiness the depth needed to engage the smaller cams, and there isn't a piece of gear made that is worse adapted to Gunks climbing.
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rightarmbad
Oct 17, 2010, 3:47 PM
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In reply to: That's interesting. Was it placed in a horizontal or a vertical crack? The one that caught my fall last weekend was in a gunks horizontal where I could clearly see the surface area of the cam making contact with the rock. With all those moving parts & hinges, I can see where a bad placement could be problematic. The cam sort seems spiderlike in the way that it moves.
It was a vertical crack placement, I mistakenly took my best handhold with a cam at face level, I plugged a red Linkcam in at my waste, set it properly, pointed at the ground and everything, then removed my top piece to move up.
By then I had pumped out and fell, the Linkcam hit me in the forehead on the way down.
Never felt a skeric of resistance.
It was in good sound rock with no particular friction problems.
Upon examination it was placed on the junction of the small and medium lobes.
I don't believe that the steel inner lobes offer enough friction on the rock.
I now use them with the thought that the inner lobes are only there to allow you to get all of the range out of the middle lobes without the risk of getting over cammed.
Or possibly allowing them to be placed in very narrow cracks that widen on the inside.
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