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moabbeth
Aug 19, 2003, 3:29 AM
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Funktimonious isn't a troll, he's been around the site.
And check out the original posting - it's from last winter.
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climber1
Aug 19, 2003, 5:29 AM
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In reply to: Funktimonious isn't a troll, he's been around the site.
he's just a fool
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ptone
Aug 19, 2003, 5:43 AM
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If he's for real, I can only assume he's never tried it.
Isn't that the modern way? Dis what you don't (can't?) understand?
I think it's supposed to make you look cool.
But to who?
p
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joegoesup
Aug 19, 2003, 11:37 AM
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I think I am addicted to crack. I usually take a trad climb over sport.
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unabonger
Aug 19, 2003, 11:45 AM
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[quote="lmorton"]Trad:
1) Trad will take you where sport will never go.
2) No 2 cracks are the same.
3) Most trad lines incorporate both face and crack moves.
4) There are an infinite number of trad gear placements, and vertical cracks are only the tip of the iceberg.
5) Because you're placing your own pro, trad takes more patience and nerves.
Is this one of those "Dumb Things Climber's Say?".
1. Sport will take you where trad will never go.
2. Many cracks are identical.
3. Blahahahah
4. Technically its not infinite.
5. Who has patience for this?
6. Top Roping is the only Pure Climbing.
7. You've been trolled.
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ajkclay
Aug 19, 2003, 12:37 PM
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dingus wrote:
In reply to: *Yawn.* OK, I thought about it. Trad climbing is still ground up. concave, convex, conwhatever. You must be one of those literal types. You're in for hard time in this world son.
*yawn* Yeah, like you're the master that must explain it all, good for you.
You must be one of those 'holier than thou types.' You're in for a rude awakening one day son.
8)
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mreardon
Aug 19, 2003, 2:47 PM
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I have to admit, I really thought this was a troll, and the fact that everyone kept it alive made it one of the best ever. Then I realized that it was real. Wow. If by "one dimensional" the original post means, "the same move over and over again", then yes, some areas/crack climbs can be that way. Particularly a place like Indian Creek, where most climbs take the same size piece for the full length of the climb. But boring? Hmmm. If I take the 9 one-inch cams with me, then to me, that would be a boring climb. It's the same move over and over again for 120 feet. If I take 9 three-inch cams with me, it's a beast that I can't repeat the same move over and over and will have to force myself to change movements just to stop the pain. If I take 9 five-inch cams with me, I really need to find another sport because anything has got to be better than what that has to offer :lol:
And that's just perfect cracks. Most areas don't have perfect cracks. Joshua Tree is less about climbing the cracks, and more about protecting by using the cracks, then whipping out every trick in the book to stay on the rock (face, crimps, open-hand slopers, dynos, handjams, skin donations, knee scums, etc.). Even the Needles which has some of the best crack climbs around, each climb has it's own series of moves, and no sequence, or protection placement is alike. Everything from perfect placements, to move the three-hundred pound block to fit your needs.
If you want the same move over and over, let's talk about some of the sport areas. Owen's River Gorge (left hand, left foot, right hand, right foot, rinse, repeat - steepness defines the grade), Vegas - The Gallery (on-sight to last bolt, deal with runout boulder problem to the anchors. Finish that one, move one climb right and go up a grade), Williamson (every handhold and foothold is facing the wrong way, but at least it's slippery), Shelf Road (crimp, highstep, clip bolt, repeat), etc. Each is distinct and each carries a flavor. But one-dimensional? I would say even all of those places are not that way. It's all good, and even better when done rather than watched on a video.
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thegreytradster
Aug 19, 2003, 2:57 PM
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At last! an inteligent post in this thread, (well, there've been a few others, but not many)
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dingus
Aug 19, 2003, 3:15 PM
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In reply to: At last! an inteligent post in this thread, (well, there've been a few others, but not many)
Which group does yours fall into? I'll give you two guesses...
DMT
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jt512
Aug 19, 2003, 3:32 PM
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In reply to: Owen's River Gorge (left hand, left foot, right hand, right foot, rinse, repeat - steepness defines the grade)... Shelf Road (crimp, highstep, clip bolt, repeat), etc...
It's an oversimplification, but many sport areas fit into one of two categories. They are either edge and pocket areas or technical areas. Edge and pocket areas tends have routes with repetitive moves (Owens, Echo Cliffs), and are, in a sense, rather one dimensional, with steepness, thinness, or reachiness defining the grade.
In reply to: ...Williamson (every handhold and foothold is facing the wrong way, but at least it's slippery)...
(That is a perfect description of the London Wall, BTW.)
Areas such as Williamson, New Jack City, and Rifle, on the other hand, emphasize technical climbing. The holds are weird or face the "wrong" way, and so require a substantial repertoire of technique and ingenuity to utilize. In other words, they emphasize variety. I think that what the original poster called one-dimensionality would be more accurately called repetitiveness. So, really, technical sport climbing is the opposite of this.
-Jay
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unabonger
Aug 19, 2003, 9:49 PM
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I'm one dimensional, according to my ex'es.
And damn, it makes it hard to climb jam cracks.
On the other hand, I'm the straightest thing between two points, though there aren't many advantages to that.
The Dementianal UnaBonger
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tanner
Aug 19, 2003, 10:37 PM
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Trad climbing is the most exiting and multi-facited form of climbing I've ever done. Crack climbing is never dull and repetitive especially on the harder grades. There is just as much balance, foot work and creativity required to climb a crack as there is to climb a face. Leading cracks on trad adds so much to the climb because you have to constantly read the rock for protection opertunitys and hazards. Also trying to create secure stances to fiddle in gear adds to the challange.
Also the equiptment adds to the fun of climbing trad. I personally like shiny new toys. I love buying a new cam and pondering the new possabilatys it brings.
There is nothing like the feeling of slotting a nut from a bomber finger lock.
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ptone
Aug 31, 2003, 3:01 AM
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Whats the point Unabonger--if you're one dimensional, there are no two points to get to...you ARE the point!
:D
I agree with tanner--while sport is fun, being really gymnastic and intense physically, trad is as exciting in a different way.
Getting intoduced to trad this year changed my direction, and my focus is now trad. It brings my head and emotions into the picture. Where sport for me is literally about the climb, intensity in a little bubble, trad is about connecting points.
I think trad is about interacting with the world, rather than just trying to defeat it.
peace,
-p
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