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A-Bowl
Feb 15, 2011, 5:53 PM
Post #26 of 71
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Registered: Nov 14, 2006
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I just went north to south on the east side searching for hard trad (high 11s low 12s... maybe not as hard as what youre into) and you should deffinately make the hike into the south nuttell of the New. More than a few beautiful 12 cracks and 13s. don't miss spiders web of the adirondacks. Keep that sport strength up cuz those red cracks are crimpy and the gunks... well hard climbs there are wild. Hopefully some of this is new info. The New River was probably my favorite mix of hard trad and sport in one place.
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billcoe_
Feb 15, 2011, 6:31 PM
Post #27 of 71
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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I'd tie in with you Angry. Cept for a few things. I'm the kind of person your kind of person generally avoids: old, decrepit, generally slothful and lazy....and I'm not driving to the east coast to do it.
Have a good trip!
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boymeetsrock
Feb 15, 2011, 7:39 PM
Post #28 of 71
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Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709
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A-Bowl wrote: I just went north to south on the east side searching for hard trad (high 11s low 12s... maybe not as hard as what youre into) and you should deffinately make the hike into the south nuttell of the New. More than a few beautiful 12 cracks and 13s. don't miss spiders web of the adirondacks. Keep that sport strength up cuz those red cracks are crimpy and the gunks... well hard climbs there are wild. Hopefully some of this is new info. The New River was probably my favorite mix of hard trad and sport in one place.
Moss cliff (Adk) might have a route or two for Angry.
You might want a second Bosch for the Gunk's, though.
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happiegrrrl
Feb 15, 2011, 8:21 PM
Post #29 of 71
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4660
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You like adventure? Three words. Big. South. Fork. (eastern Tennessee). Leave the Bosch in the van though; those overhanging walls take gear.
Have a great trip!
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angry
Feb 15, 2011, 8:36 PM
Post #30 of 71
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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I bet they take bolts too
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happiegrrrl
Feb 15, 2011, 8:40 PM
Post #31 of 71
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4660
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Bolting is banned there, I believe.
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Gmburns2000
Feb 15, 2011, 9:10 PM
Post #32 of 71
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
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is kidding around?
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Kartessa
Feb 15, 2011, 10:03 PM
Post #33 of 71
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Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
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I don't know you but you seem like a stand-up kinda guy... if you end up in Canada, I can show you what it's all aboot.
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erisspirit
Feb 15, 2011, 10:05 PM
Post #34 of 71
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 3770
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Kartessa wrote: I don't know you but you seem like a stand-up kinda guy... if you end up in Canada, I can show you what it's all aboot.
Tim Horton's?
oh ... you meant climbing...
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Kartessa
Feb 15, 2011, 11:21 PM
Post #35 of 71
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Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
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erisspirit wrote: Kartessa wrote: I don't know you but you seem like a stand-up kinda guy... if you end up in Canada, I can show you what it's all aboot. Tim Horton's? oh ... you meant climbing...
The Timmy's makes the climbing
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happiegrrrl
Feb 16, 2011, 12:51 AM
Post #37 of 71
(2859 views)
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4660
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Even rotated that looks gnarly - hahahah
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Kartessa
Feb 16, 2011, 1:25 AM
Post #38 of 71
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Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
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Yore forgetting the majesty of rattlesnake point.
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granite_grrl
Feb 16, 2011, 1:39 AM
Post #40 of 71
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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Kartessa wrote: Yore forgetting the majesty of rattlesnake point.
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rockprodigy
Feb 16, 2011, 1:45 AM
Post #41 of 71
(2825 views)
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
Posts: 1540
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I'd like to see what the hype is all about. I'll be climbing as much as possible at the Red in March and early April and in need of weekday partners. Just one question, what's a rack?
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Adk
Feb 16, 2011, 2:43 AM
Post #43 of 71
(2797 views)
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1085
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boymeetsrock wrote: A-Bowl wrote: I just went north to south on the east side searching for hard trad (high 11s low 12s... maybe not as hard as what youre into) and you should deffinately make the hike into the south nuttell of the New. More than a few beautiful 12 cracks and 13s. don't miss spiders web of the adirondacks. Keep that sport strength up cuz those red cracks are crimpy and the gunks... well hard climbs there are wild. Hopefully some of this is new info. The New River was probably my favorite mix of hard trad and sport in one place. Moss cliff (Adk) might have a route or two for Angry. You might want a second Bosch for the Gunk's, though.
Hell, if he's coming all this way might as well make it back to the 1,000 ft Wallface Cliff. No kidding!!! I know several others that would love to go and I know a guy who's got a camera to take shots of the entire climb.
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notapplicable
Feb 16, 2011, 3:33 AM
Post #44 of 71
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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angry wrote: Dear RC.communists. I don't hate you. To show you my love, I am going on a roadtrip and want to climb with anyone who's available (except USnavy, seriously, fuck that guy).
Woo!! I have been forgiven!
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notapplicable
Feb 16, 2011, 3:36 AM
Post #46 of 71
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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chadnsc wrote: happiegrrrl wrote: [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/happiegrrrl/crack.jpg[/IMG] Even rotated that looks gnarly - hahahah Now that was funny! 
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potreroed
Feb 16, 2011, 4:20 AM
Post #47 of 71
(2749 views)
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
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Dude, It's Winter--You're Going In The Wrong Direction.
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WoogieMonster
Feb 16, 2011, 5:56 AM
Post #48 of 71
(2719 views)
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Registered: Jan 26, 2011
Posts: 27
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potreroed wrote: Dude, It's Winter--You're Going In The Wrong Direction.
Youll love the Obed if your sport climbing. If you go to N.C. you better bring your sack. I mean rack, Looking glass. Whitesides. Laurel Knob. Are a few favorite areas.
Bouldering south Goes like this.
Horse Pens is great but a zoo. but Sik wit it. wear your beanie.
Rocktown is soo good better I think more of a crag.
Little rock city, lots of climbing but crowded.
If you want stoooopid hard trad. Well I cant help you I am weak sauce.
If you need help building your DB mobile let me know. I gots a van with a queen size bed and a power inverter heater and all the guds.
I am pretty much always open to climb. If your in the Chat town area. Throw a hit my way. bring the beer and bud and I will put some south in your mouth.
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angry
Feb 16, 2011, 6:16 AM
Post #49 of 71
(2712 views)
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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Woogie, I'm assuming that you've got a full size Ford MoleStar van, those do a little better on the DB build minus the gas.
I'm expecting 18-21 mpg, my sleeping area is the entire rear area, have a modular area for cooking or hanging out, have 19" of storage under the sleeping area, and I'm all wheel drive.
I have a front and rear cigarette lighter but wouldn't mind a real inverter and an aux battery but I might only keep this vehicle for the roadtrip then move overseas again. I do know that the $35 cig lighter inverters will charge anything I'm bringing so I'm fine.
As for climbing, PM me your phone # and as soon as I get a phone I'll save your number. I hope to be in Chat late on Monday, so totally up for climbing tuesday and the rest of the week.
I haven't climbed in 2 weeks exactly, it's going to be 60 in Wyoming tomorrow. I'm going to Vedauwoo.
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angry
Feb 16, 2011, 6:19 AM
Post #50 of 71
(2709 views)
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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potreroed wrote: Dude, It's Winter--You're Going In The Wrong Direction.
If I'd ever heard anything good about the climbing in EPC, I'd go. I hear the parties are awesome, the temps are great, the camping is fun, and you'll almost certainly get laid while there. Sounds fun, kinda like taking a cruise, still, I want to go climbing.
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