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TarHeelEMT
Jun 7, 2011, 1:25 AM
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As a counterpart to the other thread...
Cathedral Peak in Yosemite comes to mind. The whole buttress was a sea of fun, easy climbing with no real routes.
More locally, The Daddy at Carolina Wall in Linville Gorge was an awesome day out with unbelievable exposure at a casual grade.
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Vegasclimber10
Jun 7, 2011, 1:36 AM
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Sail Away, Joshua Tree.
A stunning line.
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csproul
Jun 7, 2011, 1:49 AM
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My avatar picture...Wolf's Head.
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TarHeelEMT
Jun 7, 2011, 1:51 AM
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csproul wrote: My avatar picture...Wolf's Head.
Somehow I saw that coming...
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schu
Jun 7, 2011, 2:52 AM
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I'd say Astroman qualifies. Totally lived up to the hype & then some.
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Gmburns2000
Jun 7, 2011, 3:04 AM
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Crimson Chrysalis
Birdland (Red Rocks)
Flight of the Gumby (The New)
Jolt (Rumney)
Bonnie's Roof ('Gunks)
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glytch
Jun 7, 2011, 3:16 AM
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Outer Space in Leavenworth, WA is unreal, and absolutely exceeded the hype.
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sandstoned
Jun 7, 2011, 1:28 PM
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glytch wrote: Outer Space in Leavenworth, WA is unreal, and absolutely exceeded the hype.
Agreed. The entire state of WA absolutely exceeded the hype, then again, I was there during some great weather.
Edited to add: Rattletale at Index- sweet.
(This post was edited by sandstoned on Jun 7, 2011, 1:31 PM)
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rtwilli4
Jun 7, 2011, 1:38 PM
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Fine Jade in Castle Valley was one of the best climbs I've done. The direct finish was just wild and the position can't be beat. I could say the same thing about the N. Face of Castleton but we couldn't summit because of weather.
Cochise Stronghold as a whole exceeded my expectations. Just an amazing place to climb.
Crosseyed at the Melting Wall on Tonsai Beach. Sam described the route in this fassion: "There is a God, and obviously, he is a climber." I think that's pretty accurate.
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skiclimb
Jun 7, 2011, 2:12 PM
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Mathis Crest near Cathedral Peak Tuolumne Yosemite. An absolute MUST DO . Fantastic fun EASY arete climbing for several pitches. Sweet pinacle summits.
Looks crazy and intimidating when first viewed .. but did I mention easy fast climbing?
(This post was edited by skiclimb on Jun 7, 2011, 2:14 PM)
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nkane
Jun 7, 2011, 2:35 PM
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Madame G's
Godzilla
MF
Doubleissima
Crimson Chrysalis
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cracklover
Jun 7, 2011, 3:10 PM
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Epinephrine
--No-one told me it had so much super-fun climbing
DNA in Kalymnos
--Unbelievably fun 3-D climbing through wild tufas
Those are the two that spring to mind as being waaay better than even all the hype suggested.
GO
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TradEddie
Jun 7, 2011, 3:38 PM
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Modern Times.
After climbing at the Gunks for more than 10 years, I thought I was used to exposure. Nope!
TE
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TarHeelEMT
Jun 7, 2011, 3:42 PM
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skiclimb wrote: Mathis Crest near Cathedral Peak Tuolumne Yosemite. An absolute MUST DO . Fantastic fun EASY arete climbing for several pitches. Sweet pinacle summits. Looks crazy and intimidating when first viewed .. but did I mention easy fast climbing?
I might do that one this summer. I'll probably be with my girlfriend, though, and she doesn't lead. I'm not sure it's an environment I'd like to be in without a partner capable of rescue.
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redonkulus
Jun 7, 2011, 3:52 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote: Crosseyed at the Melting Wall on Tonsai Beach. Sam described the route in this fassion: "There is a God, and obviously, he is a climber." I think that's pretty accurate.
Shit. I wasn't climbing 12's when I went to Thailand, so I completely ignored that route. I'll have to go back, I guess.
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rtwilli4
Jun 7, 2011, 4:28 PM
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redonkulus wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: Crosseyed at the Melting Wall on Tonsai Beach. Sam described the route in this fassion: "There is a God, and obviously, he is a climber." I think that's pretty accurate. Shit. I wasn't climbing 12's when I went to Thailand, so I completely ignored that route. I'll have to go back, I guess.
There is really only one or two 5.12 moves on the entire pitch. But there are also about 75 11c moves! I tried to flash the route... probably the most pumped I have ever been in my entire life!
You could fly back to climb at Melting Wall alone. The routes there really are that good.
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caughtinside
Jun 7, 2011, 4:43 PM
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TarHeelEMT wrote: skiclimb wrote: Mathis Crest near Cathedral Peak Tuolumne Yosemite. An absolute MUST DO . Fantastic fun EASY arete climbing for several pitches. Sweet pinacle summits. Looks crazy and intimidating when first viewed .. but did I mention easy fast climbing? I might do that one this summer. I'll probably be with my girlfriend, though, and she doesn't lead. I'm not sure it's an environment I'd like to be in without a partner capable of rescue.
It is super cruiser. You could do the first half and rap off no problem, it would be about 60 total feet of 5.7. The rest is a 3rd class sidewalk you simul. Really fun.
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Diphthong
Jun 7, 2011, 5:08 PM
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Vegasclimber10 wrote: Sail Away, Joshua Tree.
Wrong thread.
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TarHeelEMT
Jun 7, 2011, 5:08 PM
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caughtinside wrote: TarHeelEMT wrote: skiclimb wrote: Mathis Crest near Cathedral Peak Tuolumne Yosemite. An absolute MUST DO . Fantastic fun EASY arete climbing for several pitches. Sweet pinacle summits. Looks crazy and intimidating when first viewed .. but did I mention easy fast climbing? I might do that one this summer. I'll probably be with my girlfriend, though, and she doesn't lead. I'm not sure it's an environment I'd like to be in without a partner capable of rescue. It is super cruiser. You could do the first half and rap off no problem, it would be about 60 total feet of 5.7. The rest is a 3rd class sidewalk you simul. Really fun.
I may have to add it to the itinerary, then.
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sspssp
Jun 7, 2011, 5:59 PM
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caughtinside wrote: TarHeelEMT wrote: skiclimb wrote: Mathis Crest near Cathedral Peak Tuolumne Yosemite. An absolute MUST DO . Fantastic fun EASY arete climbing for several pitches. Sweet pinacle summits. Looks crazy and intimidating when first viewed .. but did I mention easy fast climbing? I might do that one this summer. I'll probably be with my girlfriend, though, and she doesn't lead. I'm not sure it's an environment I'd like to be in without a partner capable of rescue. It is super cruiser. You could do the first half and rap off no problem, it would be about 60 total feet of 5.7. The rest is a 3rd class sidewalk you simul. Really fun.
It's a traverse. Both the first and second climbers essentially do some "leading". Although it would be minimal if you quit after the first half (but why skip half the fun?).
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caughtinside
Jun 7, 2011, 6:13 PM
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sspssp wrote: caughtinside wrote: TarHeelEMT wrote: skiclimb wrote: Mathis Crest near Cathedral Peak Tuolumne Yosemite. An absolute MUST DO . Fantastic fun EASY arete climbing for several pitches. Sweet pinacle summits. Looks crazy and intimidating when first viewed .. but did I mention easy fast climbing? I might do that one this summer. I'll probably be with my girlfriend, though, and she doesn't lead. I'm not sure it's an environment I'd like to be in without a partner capable of rescue. It is super cruiser. You could do the first half and rap off no problem, it would be about 60 total feet of 5.7. The rest is a 3rd class sidewalk you simul. Really fun. It's a traverse. Both the first and second climbers essentially do some "leading". Although it would be minimal if you quit after the first half (but why skip half the fun?).
I think if you just did the first half up to the north summit the follower wouldn't really be 'leading' anything over very low 5th max. Pitch out the first pitch and the bit up to the tower.
I agree, better to do the whole thing, but the second half is harder IMO, involving some exposed 5.7 downclimb moves. If the second climber weren't comfortable out there it could be sketch.
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Gmburns2000
Jun 7, 2011, 6:31 PM
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TradEddie wrote: Modern Times. After climbing at the Gunks for more than 10 years, I thought I was used to exposure. Nope! TE
Absolutely agree.
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 7, 2011, 6:53 PM
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Epinepherine - Red Rocks
The Grand Wall - Squamish
Fat City direct and Erect Direction - The Gunks
Nutcracker - Yosemite
Josh
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lithiummetalman
Jun 7, 2011, 7:00 PM
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3rd Pillar of Dana-Tuolumne
Epinephrine-Red Rocks
Blues Riff (as 1 pitch)-Tuolumne
Bishop's Terrace (as 1 pitch)-Yosemite
Candyland-Phantom Spires
(This post was edited by lithiummetalman on Jun 7, 2011, 7:04 PM)
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cracklover
Jun 7, 2011, 7:17 PM
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Oh, I've got another one
Ancient Art in the Fishers.
So cool...
GO
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