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reasons people trad climb
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Poll: reasons people trad climb
no gym training required, just a rack 6 / 3%
placing and fondling gear 38 / 20%
less crowds 27 / 14%
potential for epics and rad stories later 31 / 16%
the bolts on sport climbs burn my eyes 10 / 5%
i can climb 5.9 trad and feel awesome, but 5.10 would require losing 30 pounds 28 / 14%
sport climbing is neither 16 / 8%
i like gear, and trad requires more gear, so it is better 38 / 20%
194 total votes
 

superchuffer


Jul 29, 2011, 7:54 PM
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reasons people trad climb
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ianwatson


Jul 29, 2011, 8:03 PM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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better views, less people, like to play with gear, trust myself more then a bolter i dont know and a bolt i dont know the history of (although i do climb sport as well) i like and do all climbing but i get the most from trad.


gmggg


Jul 29, 2011, 8:32 PM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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I really like the feeling of superiority. The ability to look down on other activities makes me smile. While trad climbing I like to discuss the silly things that sport climbers and boulderers do, the clothes they wear, and how softly graded their climbs are.

I also enjoy the ability to focus on every minuscule detail of my day except the actual climbing itself.


superchuffer


Jul 29, 2011, 8:41 PM
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In reply to:
I really like the feeling of superiority. The ability to look down on other activities makes me smile. While trad climbing I like to discuss the silly things that sport climbers and boulderers do, the clothes they wear, and how softly graded their climbs are.

like


swoopee


Jul 29, 2011, 8:53 PM
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I went with, "i can climb 5.9 trad and feel awesome, but 5.10 would require losing 30 pounds" because it is mostly true. Smile


JoeHamilton


Jul 29, 2011, 8:55 PM
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gmggg wrote:
I really like the feeling of superiority. The ability to look down on other activities makes me smile. While trad climbing I like to discuss the silly things that sport climbers and boulderers do, the clothes they wear, and how softly graded their climbs are.

I also enjoy the ability to focus on every minuscule detail of my day except the actual climbing itself.




So sounds right from what I have read


bearbreeder


Jul 29, 2011, 9:00 PM
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to get up bigger walls here ...

you need to be able to place gear


gmggg


Jul 29, 2011, 9:03 PM
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bearbreeder wrote:
to get up bigger walls here ...

you need to be able to place gear

Ah, one of the few valid answers and it comes so early in the thread.


swoopee


Jul 29, 2011, 9:09 PM
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gmggg wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
to get up bigger walls here ...

you need to be able to place gear

Ah, one of the few valid answers and it comes so early in the thread.

I didn't realize that valid answers were an option. I thought we had to choose one of the options from the poll. Smile


rtwilli4


Jul 29, 2011, 9:31 PM
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That's about the dumbest list I've ever seen.

I think it's pretty obvious that the best climbing in the US is all protected by natural gear, meaning that if you want to climb at the best areas you have to know how to place gear. It's not like we live in Spain...


edge


Jul 29, 2011, 9:45 PM
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If you can climb trad, you can climb sport or boulder.

The opposite, however, does not neccesarily apply.


Diphthong


Jul 29, 2011, 9:52 PM
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edge wrote:
If you can climb trad, you can climb sport or boulder.

The opposite, however, does not neccesarily apply.

I disagree.

Take your pick, you can say that grades count, or you can say they don't. Anybody can take a nature walk on a 5.1, certainly a sporto can. According to some of the chuffers on this site 5.1 still counts as trad. Hell, some of the chuffers on here that spend their time lamenting against sport climbing can't climb much harder than that. And if you're going to put in a restriction like 5.9 trad, well... you know where that's going.


rainman0915


Jul 29, 2011, 10:06 PM
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Also trad climbing brings in the mental games, which is almost non existent in sport climbing. not to mention there are very few places where you can do multi pitch sport routes


hyongx


Jul 29, 2011, 10:17 PM
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I feel like the reasons should be obvious:
Yosemite, Tuolumne, Joshua Tree
Eldorado Canyon, RMNP
Indian Creek, Zion
Shawangunks, Adirondacks
virtually every alpine rock route
just to name some that pop into the mind quickly. Any single one of these locations would be reason enough to climb trad, on their own. Consider that the skills are transferrable, and the real question is, "Why wouldn't you trad climb?"


shimanilami


Jul 29, 2011, 10:26 PM
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hyongx wrote:
I feel like the reasons should be obvious:
Yosemite, Tuolumne, Joshua Tree
Eldorado Canyon, RMNP
Indian Creek, Zion
Shawangunks, Adirondacks
virtually every alpine rock route
just to name some that pop into the mind quickly. Any single one of these locations would be reason enough to climb trad, on their own. Consider that the skills are transferrable, and the real question is, "Why wouldn't you trad climb?"

Amen, brother!


petsfed


Jul 29, 2011, 11:26 PM
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hyongx wrote:
I feel like the reasons should be obvious:
Yosemite, Tuolumne, Joshua Tree
Eldorado Canyon, RMNP
Indian Creek, Zion
Shawangunks, Adirondacks
virtually every alpine rock route
just to name some that pop into the mind quickly. Any single one of these locations would be reason enough to climb trad, on their own. Consider that the skills are transferrable, and the real question is, "Why wouldn't you trad climb?"

I've bolded the question and the answer. Yech!


rcmoose


Jul 29, 2011, 11:39 PM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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This question is like asking "Why do people play tackle football?"
Trad climbing is climbing - everything else is a subset of climbing or training for climbing - Trad climbing is neither superior to nor inferior to any other type of climbing. It is just climbing.
Tackle football is football - it is neither superior to nor inferior to flag football or touch football or frisbee football. It is just football.


rangerrob


Jul 29, 2011, 11:48 PM
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Because if I want to get up amazing lines on peaks in the greater ranges, I kinda need to know how to protect myself. That wasn't in the list.


johnwesely


Jul 30, 2011, 12:08 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
Because if I want to get up amazing lines on peaks in the greater ranges, I kinda need to know how to protect myself. That wasn't in the list.

I would still think trad climbing is fun even if there were no real mountains.

Disclaimer: I have never actually seen a real mountain.


superchuffer


Jul 30, 2011, 12:41 AM
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accessing long routes is a valid point and i should have included it, but can't seem to now.

in my experience, trad climbing did not prepare me for sport, but it did work the other way around: before sport i could do 5,10, after learning to do things like warm up, rest, and breathe, i could do 5.11 trad immediately.


healyje


Jul 30, 2011, 2:13 AM
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JoeHamilton wrote:
So sounds right from what I have read

Could be my favorite post of the month...


skiclimb


Jul 30, 2011, 2:30 AM
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hyongx wrote:
I feel like the reasons should be obvious:
Yosemite, Tuolumne, Joshua Tree
Eldorado Canyon, RMNP
Indian Creek, Zion
Shawangunks, Adirondacks
virtually every alpine rock route
just to name some that pop into the mind quickly. Any single one of these locations would be reason enough to climb trad, on their own. Consider that the skills are transferrable, and the real question is, "Why wouldn't you trad climb?"

That basically covers it.

The reason I trad climb is because it's the only way up the stuff I want to climb.


JoeHamilton


Jul 30, 2011, 2:45 AM
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rainman0915 wrote:
Also trad climbing brings in the mental games, which is almost non existent in sport climbing. not to mention there are very few places where you can do multi pitch sport routes

Rumney N.H. has at least one, two pitch sport routes, Orange Crush 5.9,,tropicana 5.11,,via ferrata 5.11 is a three pitch, iron man 5.11,rock du jours 5.9 the thang 5.10c thats just a few . AND YES I checked the guide book and it is a current printing as well .


climbingtrash


Jul 30, 2011, 4:53 AM
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I didn't like trad climbing when I first started so I stuck to sport climbing for 10 years. Then I got bored and I wanted to be a more well rounded climber so I started going out to the Creek with a buddy. Now I enjoy both types of climbing.


cmiller12


Jul 30, 2011, 5:23 AM
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Ok, this is coming from someone who has barely dipped her toes into trad climbing (so far), but I think if you have to ask that question, you aren't going to understand (most) of the answers you're going to get. It's like my friends who don't climb asking me why I do. There's not an answer that will really make them understand it.


justroberto


Jul 30, 2011, 5:38 AM
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cmiller12 wrote:
Ok, this is coming from someone who has barely dipped her toes into trad climbing (so far), but I think if you have to ask that question, you aren't going to understand (most) of the answers you're going to get. It's like my friends who don't climb asking me why I do. There's not an answer that will really make them understand it.

I think you're missing the chuffer's attempted humor.


Partner j_ung


Jul 30, 2011, 12:27 PM
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I like it all. Thankfully, I live in a place where trad and sport climbs live happily side by side in perfect harmony.


superchuffer


Jul 30, 2011, 12:34 PM
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In reply to:
cmiller12 wrote:
Ok, this is coming from someone who has barely dipped her toes into trad climbing (so far), but I think if you have to ask that question, you aren't going to understand (most) of the answers you're going to get. It's like my friends who don't climb asking me why I do. There's not an answer that will really make them understand it.

i have climbed up to 5.11 trad, and can consistently do 5.10.

to people that say sport requires no mental game, you need to try pushing yourself physically, remember moves, fight through a pump, and see if sport isn't a mental game.

i know trads that do much harder sport than me, but especially as i get older (40), i seem to run into more the majority of trads seems to sit on their (large) haunches and pontificate how placing gear on a 5.9 and maybe work a 5.10 makes them somehow on the same level, or better, as someone who trains to do 5.12 sport. it isn't, and they aren't. they would do well to train a bit and they would see their trad grades increase as well.


(This post was edited by superchuffer on Jul 30, 2011, 12:37 PM)


sungam


Jul 30, 2011, 12:57 PM
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gmggg wrote:
I really like the feeling of superiority. The ability to look down on other activities makes me smile. While trad climbing I like to discuss the silly things that sport climbers and boulderers do, the clothes they wear, and how softly graded their climbs are.

I also enjoy the ability to focus on every minuscule detail of my day except the actual climbing itself.
You, sir, have won.


blueeyedclimber


Jul 31, 2011, 1:05 AM
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climbingtrash wrote:
I didn't like trad climbing when I first started so I stuck to sport climbing for 10 years. Then I got bored and I wanted to be a more well rounded climber so I started going out to the Creek with a buddy. Now I enjoy both types of climbing.

Sport and Sprad? Cool

Josh


climbingtrash


Jul 31, 2011, 4:12 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
I didn't like trad climbing when I first started so I stuck to sport climbing for 10 years. Then I got bored and I wanted to be a more well rounded climber so I started going out to the Creek with a buddy. Now I enjoy both types of climbing.

Sport and Sprad? Cool

Josh

Korect. I lurv it all!


rainman0915


Jul 31, 2011, 6:05 PM
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JoeHamilton wrote:
rainman0915 wrote:
Also trad climbing brings in the mental games, which is almost non existent in sport climbing. not to mention there are very few places where you can do multi pitch sport routes

Rumney N.H. has at least one, two pitch sport routes, Orange Crush 5.9,,tropicana 5.11,,via ferrata 5.11 is a three pitch, iron man 5.11,rock du jours 5.9 the thang 5.10c thats just a few . AND YES I checked the guide book and it is a current printing as well .

Yes, there are places to multipitch sport climb, there are even a few close to my house, but the number of multipitch sport climbs compared to the number of multi pitch trad climbs is miniscule


donald949


Aug 2, 2011, 6:44 PM
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You ferget:
"Dag nabbit, when I started climbing there was no sport klimbing so we TR'd all those little short klimbz."
Also, I voted for all your options since they pretty much all apllied.


mnobbe


Aug 5, 2011, 7:21 PM
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Because I only eat ham sandwiches.


crjanow


Aug 5, 2011, 7:49 PM
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gmggg wrote:
I really like the feeling of superiority. The ability to look down on other activities makes me smile. While trad climbing I like to discuss the silly things that sport climbers and boulderers do, the clothes they wear, and how softly graded their climbs are.

I also enjoy the ability to focus on every minuscule detail of my day except the actual climbing itself.
thats great Smile


Partner cracklover


Aug 5, 2011, 9:36 PM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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To answer your question: I trad climb because it's fun and challenging.

And while I love both, I have to say that so much more goes into a successful trad ascent that truly challenged me. So naturally I get more satisfaction out of it.

GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Aug 8, 2011, 4:01 AM)


Partner cracklover


Aug 5, 2011, 9:43 PM
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rainman0915 wrote:
JoeHamilton wrote:
rainman0915 wrote:
Also trad climbing brings in the mental games, which is almost non existent in sport climbing. not to mention there are very few places where you can do multi pitch sport routes

Rumney N.H. has at least one, two pitch sport routes, Orange Crush 5.9,,tropicana 5.11,,via ferrata 5.11 is a three pitch, iron man 5.11,rock du jours 5.9 the thang 5.10c thats just a few . AND YES I checked the guide book and it is a current printing as well .

Yes, there are places to multipitch sport climb, there are even a few close to my house, but the number of multipitch sport climbs compared to the number of multi pitch trad climbs is miniscule

If only you knew how silly Joe's examples were.

BTW, there are some superb long multipitch sport lines elsewhere in Europe, not just Spain.

GO


RDA


Aug 7, 2011, 3:42 PM
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How about SAVING THE ROCK! That IS the reason we put down the pins and picked up the nuts...ANY one can DRILL a rock into submission, and make it "safe" for them. The dumbing down of new climbers is what you get from sport routes. Proof is in the pudding kiddies..Newer climbers are hitting the deck like a hail storm these days due to the fact they ony now how to push plug n gos int a crack. The falling on them discover that they didnt hold.


Gmburns2000


Aug 7, 2011, 3:49 PM
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Because it's there


justroberto


Aug 7, 2011, 3:57 PM
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RDA wrote:
How about SAVING THE ROCK! That IS the reason we put down the pins and picked up the nuts...ANY one can DRILL a rock into submission, and make it "safe" for them. The dumbing down of new climbers is what you get from sport routes. Proof is in the pudding kiddies..Newer climbers are hitting the deck like a hail storm these days due to the fact they ony now how to push plug n gos int a crack. The falling on them discover that they didnt hold.

The bodies are stacking up like cordwood.


spikeddem


Aug 7, 2011, 4:08 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Because it's there

-10 stars if I could Greg, sorry, but this answer makes me shit bricks.


climbingtrash


Aug 7, 2011, 4:22 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Because it's there I'm in luv with the mountain.

fixd.

Cap'n Kirk sez it all...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HU2ftCitvyQ


Gmburns2000


Aug 7, 2011, 10:45 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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spikeddem wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
Because it's there

-10 stars if I could Greg, sorry, but this answer makes me shit bricks.

no imagination


jacques


Aug 7, 2011, 11:28 PM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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I like trad because I can be honest with myself. It is like a mirror where you see your default and quality. Minimizing the risk is a chess game for me and trying harder and harder thing just for the pleasure of being proud of what we can accomplished without competition is relaxing. climbing trad with a partner just to go to the summit with all our skill and stress, laught and critic, without telling to any one what we did.


rockie


Aug 8, 2011, 10:23 AM
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Re: [jacques] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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I like trad, placing gear, though not just for that reason alone.


superchuffer


Aug 8, 2011, 11:52 PM
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Re: [jacques] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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jacques, you certainly have a way with words, but somehow your posts make more sense than the others.

... and it looks like from the posts and the poll data, gear-based reasons are winning!

so since last week was OR week, did you guys have wood the whole week? i bet a new line of cams is better than viagra.


DougMartin


Aug 9, 2011, 1:15 AM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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I trad climb because I don't have to have someone with a drill and bolts climb or rap down it before me!!!


(This post was edited by DougMartin on Aug 9, 2011, 1:19 AM)


westhegimp


Aug 19, 2011, 11:57 PM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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On many larger rocks, walls and mountains there are no line of bolts going to the top. (Thank god) If you like to climb these you may want to learn how to use gear. It's fun. It's different. If you want more of an adventure. Trad makes easy climbs more thrilling. These are some of the reasons I trad climb.

Tomorrow I will be in the Ghetto, lol, see you there.
Wes


Partner happiegrrrl


Aug 20, 2011, 5:21 PM
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Re: [westhegimp] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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Because the is what I learned on. If I had started climbing in a place where it was sport climbing, I am sure I would have liked that.

Still, I do really like the totality of what is involved in leading on gear. It's not "placing a piece;" it's creating a system of protection. There is some satisfaction, for me, upon coming to a placement, and hearing that little voice in my head say "Yellow Alien," or "Red Tricam" or what have you. When it slots easily and bomber-like, that's great, but when it isn't quite that bomber, but the best I can get, and now THAT comes into the equation as to how well I'm protected.... that is something that I just find exhilerating.

Can't imagine it stays exciting for long to come up to a bolt and thing..."hmmm, which draw is best for this."

That said - I do like sport climbing too. It's fun! But I am glad I am mostly a traditional climber.


hugepedro


Aug 20, 2011, 6:26 PM
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Re: [rcmoose] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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rcmoose wrote:
This question is like asking "Why do people play tackle football?"
Trad climbing is climbing - everything else is a subset of climbing or training for climbing - Trad climbing is neither superior to nor inferior to any other type of climbing. It is just climbing.
Tackle football is football - it is neither superior to nor inferior to flag football or touch football or frisbee football. It is just football.

No, you're wrong. Tackle football is WAY better than all those other games. It requires bigger cajones. It's much harder. The consequences are higher. Just like trad is superior to everything, except serious big peak glacier/ice/snow/alpine climbing.


mbrd


Aug 21, 2011, 4:07 AM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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you left out "i have onsighted 12c sport, but the hardest 5.10 i ever climbed was a 5.8 at the gunks".


mbrd


Aug 21, 2011, 4:10 AM
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Re: [jacques] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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jacques wrote:
I like trad because I can be honest with myself. It is like a mirror where you see your default and quality. Minimizing the risk is a chess game for me and trying harder and harder thing just for the pleasure of being proud of what we can accomplished without competition is relaxing. climbing trad with a partner just to go to the summit with all our skill and stress, laught and critic, without telling to any one what we did.

oh, and YES!!!!! what he said...


ceebo


Aug 21, 2011, 4:24 PM
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You missed the option: Because i live in England and they think using bolts is for pussys = everybody has little to no choice and must risk their life to send hard in trad.


johnwesely


Aug 21, 2011, 4:47 PM
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Re: [ceebo] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
You missed the option: Because i live in England and they think using bolts is for pussys = everybody has little to no choice and must risk their life to send hard in trad.

Sounds reasonable to me.


johnwesely


Aug 21, 2011, 4:48 PM
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Re: [mbrd] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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mbrd wrote:
you left out "i have onsighted 12c sport, but the hardest 5.10 i ever climbed was a 5.8 at the gunks".

That would never happen.


wonderwoman


Aug 22, 2011, 3:11 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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I can think of a few reasons I like trad climbing:

Trad takes me to beautiful places.
I like multipitch climbing, which are usually trad climbs.
Trad scares the bejesus out of me.


rescueman


Aug 22, 2011, 4:13 PM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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Trad(itional) climbing is just that: the way people for generations have climbed under their own power, using simple equipment and lots of skill and creativity and thought to remain safe and arrive at one's destination.

It's also a wonderful way to experience the heights of the world, to visit alpine environments by one's own strength and skill, and can be a spiritual experience if undertaken with the right frame of mind.


Partner camhead


Aug 22, 2011, 4:53 PM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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Because I know that every time I place a slung hex in a 20 foot 5.4 gully in Pennsylvania, I AM the next logical step in a tradition of boldness paved by Roman gladiators, long-distance Polynesian fishermen, Christian martyrs, Vinland Vikings, Spanish conquistadors, Lakota coup counters, and Japanese kamikaze pilots.


drivel


Aug 22, 2011, 5:30 PM
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Re: [climbingtrash] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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climbingtrash wrote:
I didn't like trad climbing when I first started so I stuck to sport climbing for 10 years. Then I got bored and I wanted to be a more well rounded climber so I started going out to the Creek with a buddy. Now I enjoy both types of climbing.

does IC really count as trad climbing? it's not like you have to think to place teh gearz there....


drivel


Aug 22, 2011, 5:37 PM
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Re: [mbrd] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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also, i can practically hear everyone in here masturbating.


(This post was edited by drivel on Aug 22, 2011, 5:39 PM)


superchuffer


Aug 22, 2011, 5:55 PM
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In reply to:
Because I know that every time I place a slung hex in a 20 foot 5.4 gully in Pennsylvania, I AM the next logical step in a tradition of boldness paved by Roman gladiators, long-distance Polynesian fishermen, Christian martyrs, Vinland Vikings, Spanish conquistadors, Lakota coup counters, and Japanese kamikaze pilots.

dean potter soloing 5.13 with a chute is the next logical step.


essay


Aug 22, 2011, 6:19 PM
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camhead wrote:
Because I know that every time I place a slung hex in a 20 foot 5.4 gully in Pennsylvania, I AM the next logical step in a tradition of boldness paved by Roman gladiators, long-distance Polynesian fishermen, Christian martyrs, Vinland Vikings, Spanish conquistadors, Lakota coup counters, and Japanese kamikaze pilots.


If I was a Viking warrior I would kill you with my Axe for saying I am so weak at climbing. If I was a Spanish conquistador I would fee you to my dog for your shameful comparison. Since I am a long distance Polynesian fisherman I sau Ufa Kefe to you Melani. Agreed, Dean potter soloing 5.13 is a progression, slinging hexes on a 5.4 is the past.


superchuffer


Aug 22, 2011, 6:41 PM
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In reply to:
also, i can practically hear everyone in here masturbating
Like cows pulling their hooves out of mud?
5.4 with hexes is serious stuff dude


drivel


Aug 22, 2011, 6:43 PM
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superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
also, i can practically hear everyone in here masturbating
Like cows pulling their hooves out of mud?
5.4 with hexes is serious stuff dude

mmm that sucking sound makes my dick hard.


tolman_paul


Aug 22, 2011, 8:55 PM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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You need an option for, when I started climbing it was just climbing.

Whether roped or not, clipping bolts of placing gear, it's just climbing.


jorgegonzalez


Aug 22, 2011, 9:52 PM
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Re: [justroberto] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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Cracks, I just love stuffing my fingers into them.


caughtinside


Aug 22, 2011, 11:03 PM
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Re: [jorgegonzalez] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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I like trad because leading .10 trad is still kind of cool, while leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.


superchuffer


Aug 23, 2011, 12:45 AM
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In reply to:
leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.

to me, 'cool' involves low stress, so a scary trad climb might be fulfilling on some level, but not by it's nature 'cool'

... so, a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.


(This post was edited by superchuffer on Aug 23, 2011, 12:48 AM)


caughtinside


Aug 23, 2011, 12:47 AM
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superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.

...and by this logic a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.

Really? I've seen a handful of people come out to a sport crag after a year or two in the gym and do a 10 their first day.


climbingtrash


Aug 23, 2011, 2:24 AM
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drivel wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
I didn't like trad climbing when I first started so I stuck to sport climbing for 10 years. Then I got bored and I wanted to be a more well rounded climber so I started going out to the Creek with a buddy. Now I enjoy both types of climbing.

does IC really count as trad climbing? it's not like you have to think to place teh gearz there....

This iz proly true. Guess it's really considered teh New Wave Trad. But sumtimes thinking suks and gits in teh way of the whole spiritualness of teh Tradz.


climbingtrash


Aug 23, 2011, 2:26 AM
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drivel wrote:
also, i can practically hear everyone in here masturbating.

You shore it's not just a pr0n window you left open?


bearbreeder


Aug 23, 2011, 2:29 AM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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superchuffer wrote:
In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.

to me, 'cool' involves low stress, so a scary trad climb might be fulfilling on some level, but not by it's nature 'cool'

... so, a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.

ive taken out strong gym climbers ... and quite a few can handle low 10s their first few days out ...


climbingtrash


Aug 23, 2011, 2:30 AM
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tolman_paul wrote:
You need an option for, when I started climbing it was just climbing.

Whether roped or not, clipping bolts of placing gear, it's just climbing.

Yore n00bness haz been owtted with ^^that^^ statement.


climbingtrash


Aug 23, 2011, 2:32 AM
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caughtinside wrote:
I like trad because leading .10 trad is still kind of cool, while leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

Well aren't ewe teh kats Me0w.


climbingtrash


Aug 23, 2011, 2:33 AM
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caughtinside wrote:
superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.

...and by this logic a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.

Really? I've seen a handful of people come out to a sport crag after a year or two in the gym and do a 10 their first day.

I did after a month or two.Angelic


climbingtrash


Aug 23, 2011, 2:34 AM
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climbingtrash wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
I like trad because leading .10 trad is still kind of cool, while leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

Well aren't ewe teh kats Me0w.

Along with this PTFTW?


climbingtrash


Aug 23, 2011, 2:36 AM
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wo0! I luvz teh TRadz. See...




caughtinside


Aug 23, 2011, 2:51 AM
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climbingtrash wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
I like trad because leading .10 trad is still kind of cool, while leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

Well aren't ewe teh kats Me0w.

Listen up meow, I can klimb teh ten eh tards!


climbingtrash


Aug 23, 2011, 3:10 AM
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caughtinside wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
I like trad because leading .10 trad is still kind of cool, while leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

Well aren't ewe teh kats Me0w.

Listen up meow, I can klimb teh ten eh tards!

Gnu wave oar ol'skool meow?


mbrd


Aug 23, 2011, 6:22 AM
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essay wrote:
camhead wrote:
Because I know that every time I place a slung hex in a 20 foot 5.4 gully in Pennsylvania, I AM the next logical step in a tradition of boldness paved by Roman gladiators, long-distance Polynesian fishermen, Christian martyrs, Vinland Vikings, Spanish conquistadors, Lakota coup counters, and Japanese kamikaze pilots.


If I was a Viking warrior I would kill you with my Axe for saying I am so weak at climbing. If I was a Spanish conquistador I would fee you to my dog for your shameful comparison. Since I am a long distance Polynesian fisherman I sau Ufa Kefe to you Melani. Agreed, Dean potter soloing 5.13 is a progression, slinging hexes on a 5.4 is the past.

didn't get it, did you? camhead said "slinging hexes..." not placing them. the 5.4 is being soloed- the hexes are being slung at japanese kamikaze pilots attempting to torp a pennsylvania crag! tradition of boldness indeed!


mbrd


Aug 23, 2011, 6:26 AM
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drivel wrote:
also, i can practically hear everyone in here masturbating.

no no no, i was just role playing (oh god, i feel so dirty).

what the hell was the safe word?


drivel


Aug 23, 2011, 1:45 PM
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mbrd wrote:
drivel wrote:
also, i can practically hear everyone in here masturbating.

no no no, i was just role playing (oh god, i feel so dirty).

what the hell was the safe word?

"vomit."

or "lawsuit."


Diphthong


Aug 23, 2011, 2:16 PM
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climbingtrash wrote:
drivel wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
I didn't like trad climbing when I first started so I stuck to sport climbing for 10 years. Then I got bored and I wanted to be a more well rounded climber so I started going out to the Creek with a buddy. Now I enjoy both types of climbing.

does IC really count as trad climbing? it's not like you have to think to place teh gearz there....

This iz proly true. Guess it's really considered teh New Wave Trad.

No, it's really not.


superchuffer


Aug 23, 2011, 2:39 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.

...and by this logic a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.

Really? I've seen a handful of people come out to a sport crag after a year or two in the gym and do a 10 their first day.

you didn't say a 'year or two in the gym' in your origninal post, you said beginners, which would imply people leading 5.10 their very first day on rock or plastic, and i found that hard to believe.


caughtinside


Aug 23, 2011, 2:45 PM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.

...and by this logic a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.

Really? I've seen a handful of people come out to a sport crag after a year or two in the gym and do a 10 their first day.

you didn't say a 'year or two in the gym' in your origninal post, you said beginners, which would imply people leading 5.10 their very first day on rock or plastic, and i found that hard to believe.

Well that is marvelous. And very proud we are of you.


superchuffer


Aug 23, 2011, 2:51 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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thanks, I'm proud of you too.


sungam


Aug 23, 2011, 7:29 PM
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Re: [camhead] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Because I know that every time I place a slung hex in a 20 foot 5.4 gully in Pennsylvania, I AM the next logical step in a tradition of boldness paved by Roman gladiators, long-distance Polynesian fishermen, Christian martyrs, Vinland Vikings, Spanish conquistadors, Lakota coup counters, and Japanese kamikaze pilots.
You know, you are actually yes funny once every couple of years. Smile


Diphthong


Aug 23, 2011, 7:36 PM
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Re: [sungam] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
camhead wrote:
Because I know that every time I place a slung hex in a 20 foot 5.4 gully in Pennsylvania, I AM the next logical step in a tradition of boldness paved by Roman gladiators, long-distance Polynesian fishermen, Christian martyrs, Vinland Vikings, Spanish conquistadors, Lakota coup counters, and Japanese kamikaze pilots.
You know, you are actually yes funny once every couple of years. Smile

Now you've done it.


sungam


Aug 23, 2011, 8:54 PM
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Re: [Diphthong] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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Sorry brah.


welle


Aug 23, 2011, 11:12 PM
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Re: [swoopee] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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swoopee wrote:
I went with, "i can climb 5.9 trad and feel awesome, but 5.10 would require losing 30 pounds" because it is mostly true. Smile

I did too! It's a nicer way of saying "Because I'm fat, old and weak".


Gmburns2000


Aug 23, 2011, 11:28 PM
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Re: [sungam] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
camhead wrote:
Because I know that every time I place a slung hex in a 20 foot 5.4 gully in Pennsylvania, I AM the next logical step in a tradition of boldness paved by Roman gladiators, long-distance Polynesian fishermen, Christian martyrs, Vinland Vikings, Spanish conquistadors, Lakota coup counters, and Japanese kamikaze pilots.
You know, you are actually yes funny once every couple of years. Smile

The only reason why that's reasonably funny is because he's a history professor of some sort, so he kind of had a few years to think about it.


kachoong


Aug 24, 2011, 12:11 AM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.

...and by this logic a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.

Really? I've seen a handful of people come out to a sport crag after a year or two in the gym and do a 10 their first day.

you didn't say a 'year or two in the gym' in your origninal post, you said beginners, which would imply people leading 5.10 their very first day on rock or plastic, and i found that hard to believe.

Huh... I'd say someone who's only climbed in the gym for two years a beginner.


Diphthong


Aug 24, 2011, 1:22 AM
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Re: [kachoong] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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kachoong wrote:
superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.

...and by this logic a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.

Really? I've seen a handful of people come out to a sport crag after a year or two in the gym and do a 10 their first day.

you didn't say a 'year or two in the gym' in your origninal post, you said beginners, which would imply people leading 5.10 their very first day on rock or plastic, and i found that hard to believe.

Huh... I'd say someone who's only climbed in the gym for two years a beginner.

Post reported for elitism.


climbingtrash


Aug 24, 2011, 3:01 AM
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Re: [Diphthong] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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Diphthong wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
drivel wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
I didn't like trad climbing when I first started so I stuck to sport climbing for 10 years. Then I got bored and I wanted to be a more well rounded climber so I started going out to the Creek with a buddy. Now I enjoy both types of climbing.

does IC really count as trad climbing? it's not like you have to think to place teh gearz there....

This iz proly true. Guess it's really considered teh New Wave Trad.

No, it's really not.

Way 'rado New wave sport trad?


superchuffer


Aug 24, 2011, 12:16 PM
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Re: [Diphthong] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.


climbingtrash


Aug 25, 2011, 1:35 AM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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superchuffer wrote:
Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.

Let's hear you say that after you've climbed there.


superchuffer


Aug 25, 2011, 2:00 AM
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Re: [climbingtrash] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.

Let's hear you say that after you've climbed there.

I have climbed a few 5.10s there. i cut my trad teeth in vedauwoo, so while the climbing was hard in the sense of repetitive stress on joints, the gear placements were a no-brainer, and the hand jams easy to assess.

so.... throw in some shiney chains and that's about as close as you can get to sport in trad world.


climbingtrash


Aug 25, 2011, 3:46 AM
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superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.

Let's hear you say that after you've climbed there.

I have climbed a few 5.10s there. i cut my trad teeth in vedauwoo, so while the climbing was hard in the sense of repetitive stress on joints, the gear placements were a no-brainer, and the hand jams easy to assess.

so.... throw in some shiney chains and that's about as close as you can get to sport in trad world.

Well yah, Cams were made for the Creek. Chains you will find all over the big routes in Zion too. Just makes more sense in the desert. Vedauwoo I've only heard stories of. One of these days I may make it up there.


damienclimber


Aug 25, 2011, 11:48 PM
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climbingtrash wrote:
superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.

Let's hear you say that after you've climbed there.

I have climbed a few 5.10s there. i cut my trad teeth in vedauwoo, so while the climbing was hard in the sense of repetitive stress on joints, the gear placements were a no-brainer, and the hand jams easy to assess.

so.... throw in some shiney chains and that's about as close as you can get to sport in trad world.

Well yah, Cams were made for the Creek. Chains you will find all over the big routes in Zion too. Just makes more sense in the desert. Vedauwoo I've only heard stories of. One of these days I may make it up there.


Vedauwoo is for offwidth delights.
Easy going ,friendly climbers,
Partners to be found in the galley, coffee roasting .
mmnn smells great.
festivals, warm invites. A+ rating .

U.S not AAA anymore


petsfed


Aug 26, 2011, 3:35 AM
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Re: [climbingtrash] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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climbingtrash wrote:
Well yah, Cams were made for the Creek. Chains you will find all over the big routes in Zion too. Just makes more sense in the desert. Vedauwoo I've only heard stories of. One of these days I may make it up there.

Well, Vedauwoo ain't exactly ground-up trad-to-the-core either. There are a fair number of crack lines that feature bolts placed on rappel to protect the regions without cracks.


dr_feelgood


Aug 27, 2011, 2:37 AM
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Re: [damienclimber] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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damienclimber wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.

Let's hear you say that after you've climbed there.

I have climbed a few 5.10s there. i cut my trad teeth in vedauwoo, so while the climbing was hard in the sense of repetitive stress on joints, the gear placements were a no-brainer, and the hand jams easy to assess.

so.... throw in some shiney chains and that's about as close as you can get to sport in trad world.

Well yah, Cams were made for the Creek. Chains you will find all over the big routes in Zion too. Just makes more sense in the desert. Vedauwoo I've only heard stories of. One of these days I may make it up there.


Vedauwoo is for offwidth delights.
Easy going ,friendly climbers,
Partners to be found in the galley, coffee roasting .
mmnn smells great.
festivals, warm invites. A+ rating .

U.S not AAA anymore
mmmm smells like crack is cooking....


dr_feelgood


Aug 27, 2011, 2:38 AM
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cutting edge!


dr_feelgood


Aug 27, 2011, 2:39 AM
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sling a chickenhead equalized with a rusty fixed RP


dr_feelgood


Aug 27, 2011, 2:40 AM
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it is what trad climbing is all about


climbingtrash


Aug 27, 2011, 1:38 PM
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Re: [petsfed] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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petsfed wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
Well yah, Cams were made for the Creek. Chains you will find all over the big routes in Zion too. Just makes more sense in the desert. Vedauwoo I've only heard stories of. One of these days I may make it up there.

Well, Vedauwoo ain't exactly ground-up trad-to-the-core either. There are a fair number of crack lines that feature bolts placed on rappel to protect the regions without cracks.

Sounds like sprad to meh.


climbingtrash


Aug 27, 2011, 1:41 PM
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Re: [dr_feelgood] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
sling a chickenhead equalized with a rusty fixed RP

It's what makes trad teh moar spiritual form of climbing.


superchuffer


Aug 27, 2011, 9:40 PM
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Re: [climbingtrash] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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In reply to:
sling a chickenhead equalized with a rusty fixed RP

It's what makes trad teh moar spiritual form of climbing.

so explain to me what is spiritual about a first ascentionist choosing to run out a crux well within their ability?

....so as to inflate their narcissism, showing the mere mortals their ability to hike the say 5.11 unprotected crux, while seriously endangering the majority of those that want to repeat the route...


(This post was edited by superchuffer on Aug 27, 2011, 9:43 PM)


justroberto


Aug 27, 2011, 11:17 PM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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superchuffer wrote:
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sling a chickenhead equalized with a rusty fixed RP

It's what makes trad teh moar spiritual form of climbing.

so explain to me what is spiritual about a first ascentionist choosing to run out a crux well within their ability?

....so as to inflate their narcissism, showing the mere mortals their ability to hike the say 5.11 unprotected crux, while seriously endangering the majority of those that want to repeat the route...

Stop complaining on the internets and just go retro whatever route you think deserves moar bolts. In most places it's within yore legal rights.


superchuffer


Aug 29, 2011, 7:53 PM
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Re: [justroberto] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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thanks for the permission justin!

while i.m at it, i,ll glue and comfortize some holds as well


climbingtrash


Aug 29, 2011, 8:33 PM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
sling a chickenhead equalized with a rusty fixed RP

It's what makes trad teh moar spiritual form of climbing.

so explain to me what is spiritual about a first ascentionist choosing to run out a crux well within their ability?

....so as to inflate their narcissism, showing the mere mortals their ability to hike the say 5.11 unprotected crux, while seriously endangering the majority of those that want to repeat the route...

Well it's spiritual because the whole time the FA is running it out he's thinking, "Gawd I hope I don't fall."


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