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reasons people trad climb
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Poll: reasons people trad climb
no gym training required, just a rack 6 / 3%
placing and fondling gear 38 / 20%
less crowds 27 / 14%
potential for epics and rad stories later 31 / 16%
the bolts on sport climbs burn my eyes 10 / 5%
i can climb 5.9 trad and feel awesome, but 5.10 would require losing 30 pounds 28 / 14%
sport climbing is neither 16 / 8%
i like gear, and trad requires more gear, so it is better 38 / 20%
194 total votes
 

climbingtrash


Aug 23, 2011, 2:34 AM
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climbingtrash wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
I like trad because leading .10 trad is still kind of cool, while leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

Well aren't ewe teh kats Me0w.

Along with this PTFTW?


climbingtrash


Aug 23, 2011, 2:36 AM
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wo0! I luvz teh TRadz. See...




caughtinside


Aug 23, 2011, 2:51 AM
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climbingtrash wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
I like trad because leading .10 trad is still kind of cool, while leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

Well aren't ewe teh kats Me0w.

Listen up meow, I can klimb teh ten eh tards!


climbingtrash


Aug 23, 2011, 3:10 AM
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caughtinside wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
I like trad because leading .10 trad is still kind of cool, while leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

Well aren't ewe teh kats Me0w.

Listen up meow, I can klimb teh ten eh tards!

Gnu wave oar ol'skool meow?


mbrd


Aug 23, 2011, 6:22 AM
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essay wrote:
camhead wrote:
Because I know that every time I place a slung hex in a 20 foot 5.4 gully in Pennsylvania, I AM the next logical step in a tradition of boldness paved by Roman gladiators, long-distance Polynesian fishermen, Christian martyrs, Vinland Vikings, Spanish conquistadors, Lakota coup counters, and Japanese kamikaze pilots.


If I was a Viking warrior I would kill you with my Axe for saying I am so weak at climbing. If I was a Spanish conquistador I would fee you to my dog for your shameful comparison. Since I am a long distance Polynesian fisherman I sau Ufa Kefe to you Melani. Agreed, Dean potter soloing 5.13 is a progression, slinging hexes on a 5.4 is the past.

didn't get it, did you? camhead said "slinging hexes..." not placing them. the 5.4 is being soloed- the hexes are being slung at japanese kamikaze pilots attempting to torp a pennsylvania crag! tradition of boldness indeed!


mbrd


Aug 23, 2011, 6:26 AM
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drivel wrote:
also, i can practically hear everyone in here masturbating.

no no no, i was just role playing (oh god, i feel so dirty).

what the hell was the safe word?


drivel


Aug 23, 2011, 1:45 PM
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mbrd wrote:
drivel wrote:
also, i can practically hear everyone in here masturbating.

no no no, i was just role playing (oh god, i feel so dirty).

what the hell was the safe word?

"vomit."

or "lawsuit."


Diphthong


Aug 23, 2011, 2:16 PM
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climbingtrash wrote:
drivel wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
I didn't like trad climbing when I first started so I stuck to sport climbing for 10 years. Then I got bored and I wanted to be a more well rounded climber so I started going out to the Creek with a buddy. Now I enjoy both types of climbing.

does IC really count as trad climbing? it's not like you have to think to place teh gearz there....

This iz proly true. Guess it's really considered teh New Wave Trad.

No, it's really not.


superchuffer


Aug 23, 2011, 2:39 PM
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In reply to:
leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.

...and by this logic a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.

Really? I've seen a handful of people come out to a sport crag after a year or two in the gym and do a 10 their first day.

you didn't say a 'year or two in the gym' in your origninal post, you said beginners, which would imply people leading 5.10 their very first day on rock or plastic, and i found that hard to believe.


caughtinside


Aug 23, 2011, 2:45 PM
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superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.

...and by this logic a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.

Really? I've seen a handful of people come out to a sport crag after a year or two in the gym and do a 10 their first day.

you didn't say a 'year or two in the gym' in your origninal post, you said beginners, which would imply people leading 5.10 their very first day on rock or plastic, and i found that hard to believe.

Well that is marvelous. And very proud we are of you.


superchuffer


Aug 23, 2011, 2:51 PM
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thanks, I'm proud of you too.


sungam


Aug 23, 2011, 7:29 PM
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camhead wrote:
Because I know that every time I place a slung hex in a 20 foot 5.4 gully in Pennsylvania, I AM the next logical step in a tradition of boldness paved by Roman gladiators, long-distance Polynesian fishermen, Christian martyrs, Vinland Vikings, Spanish conquistadors, Lakota coup counters, and Japanese kamikaze pilots.
You know, you are actually yes funny once every couple of years. Smile


Diphthong


Aug 23, 2011, 7:36 PM
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sungam wrote:
camhead wrote:
Because I know that every time I place a slung hex in a 20 foot 5.4 gully in Pennsylvania, I AM the next logical step in a tradition of boldness paved by Roman gladiators, long-distance Polynesian fishermen, Christian martyrs, Vinland Vikings, Spanish conquistadors, Lakota coup counters, and Japanese kamikaze pilots.
You know, you are actually yes funny once every couple of years. Smile

Now you've done it.


sungam


Aug 23, 2011, 8:54 PM
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Sorry brah.


welle


Aug 23, 2011, 11:12 PM
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swoopee wrote:
I went with, "i can climb 5.9 trad and feel awesome, but 5.10 would require losing 30 pounds" because it is mostly true. Smile

I did too! It's a nicer way of saying "Because I'm fat, old and weak".


Gmburns2000


Aug 23, 2011, 11:28 PM
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sungam wrote:
camhead wrote:
Because I know that every time I place a slung hex in a 20 foot 5.4 gully in Pennsylvania, I AM the next logical step in a tradition of boldness paved by Roman gladiators, long-distance Polynesian fishermen, Christian martyrs, Vinland Vikings, Spanish conquistadors, Lakota coup counters, and Japanese kamikaze pilots.
You know, you are actually yes funny once every couple of years. Smile

The only reason why that's reasonably funny is because he's a history professor of some sort, so he kind of had a few years to think about it.


kachoong


Aug 24, 2011, 12:11 AM
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superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.

...and by this logic a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.

Really? I've seen a handful of people come out to a sport crag after a year or two in the gym and do a 10 their first day.

you didn't say a 'year or two in the gym' in your origninal post, you said beginners, which would imply people leading 5.10 their very first day on rock or plastic, and i found that hard to believe.

Huh... I'd say someone who's only climbed in the gym for two years a beginner.


Diphthong


Aug 24, 2011, 1:22 AM
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kachoong wrote:
superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
leading .10 sport is something most beginners do their first day out.

In 20 years of being outside at least twice a month, i have never seen this.

...and by this logic a bolted crack would be the 'coolest' thing to do. a few at jacks come to mind, and yes, they are cool.

Really? I've seen a handful of people come out to a sport crag after a year or two in the gym and do a 10 their first day.

you didn't say a 'year or two in the gym' in your origninal post, you said beginners, which would imply people leading 5.10 their very first day on rock or plastic, and i found that hard to believe.

Huh... I'd say someone who's only climbed in the gym for two years a beginner.

Post reported for elitism.


climbingtrash


Aug 24, 2011, 3:01 AM
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Diphthong wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
drivel wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
I didn't like trad climbing when I first started so I stuck to sport climbing for 10 years. Then I got bored and I wanted to be a more well rounded climber so I started going out to the Creek with a buddy. Now I enjoy both types of climbing.

does IC really count as trad climbing? it's not like you have to think to place teh gearz there....

This iz proly true. Guess it's really considered teh New Wave Trad.

No, it's really not.

Way 'rado New wave sport trad?


superchuffer


Aug 24, 2011, 12:16 PM
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Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.


climbingtrash


Aug 25, 2011, 1:35 AM
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superchuffer wrote:
Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.

Let's hear you say that after you've climbed there.


superchuffer


Aug 25, 2011, 2:00 AM
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In reply to:
Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.

Let's hear you say that after you've climbed there.

I have climbed a few 5.10s there. i cut my trad teeth in vedauwoo, so while the climbing was hard in the sense of repetitive stress on joints, the gear placements were a no-brainer, and the hand jams easy to assess.

so.... throw in some shiney chains and that's about as close as you can get to sport in trad world.


climbingtrash


Aug 25, 2011, 3:46 AM
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superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.

Let's hear you say that after you've climbed there.

I have climbed a few 5.10s there. i cut my trad teeth in vedauwoo, so while the climbing was hard in the sense of repetitive stress on joints, the gear placements were a no-brainer, and the hand jams easy to assess.

so.... throw in some shiney chains and that's about as close as you can get to sport in trad world.

Well yah, Cams were made for the Creek. Chains you will find all over the big routes in Zion too. Just makes more sense in the desert. Vedauwoo I've only heard stories of. One of these days I may make it up there.


damienclimber


Aug 25, 2011, 11:48 PM
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climbingtrash wrote:
superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.

Let's hear you say that after you've climbed there.

I have climbed a few 5.10s there. i cut my trad teeth in vedauwoo, so while the climbing was hard in the sense of repetitive stress on joints, the gear placements were a no-brainer, and the hand jams easy to assess.

so.... throw in some shiney chains and that's about as close as you can get to sport in trad world.

Well yah, Cams were made for the Creek. Chains you will find all over the big routes in Zion too. Just makes more sense in the desert. Vedauwoo I've only heard stories of. One of these days I may make it up there.


Vedauwoo is for offwidth delights.
Easy going ,friendly climbers,
Partners to be found in the galley, coffee roasting .
mmnn smells great.
festivals, warm invites. A+ rating .

U.S not AAA anymore


petsfed


Aug 26, 2011, 3:35 AM
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climbingtrash wrote:
Well yah, Cams were made for the Creek. Chains you will find all over the big routes in Zion too. Just makes more sense in the desert. Vedauwoo I've only heard stories of. One of these days I may make it up there.

Well, Vedauwoo ain't exactly ground-up trad-to-the-core either. There are a fair number of crack lines that feature bolts placed on rappel to protect the regions without cracks.

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